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Old 05-11-2011, 11:33 PM   #1
DLG
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Default Boiled Linseed Oil over minwax stain?

Some say BLO is good to put over a stain to seal it and to give it a nice shine. I was wondering what you guys use because there are mixed feelings over BLO and just so happens i was going to apply it to some stocks i am refinishing. Would appreciate the help and even pics. Thanks.
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Old 05-12-2011, 12:15 AM   #2
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BLO is not for AKs. I like it, but it's not correct, cept maybe for yugos.
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Old 05-12-2011, 07:54 AM   #3
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Old 05-12-2011, 11:37 AM   #4
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I've used BLO on one stock. It's by far my favorite finish for laminated wood, although Delloro is correct in that it isn't authentic. Shellac is the most authentic finish.

This stock was stained with something similar to Minwax (can't think of the name right now) then about 20 coats of BLO over 5 weeks.
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Old 05-12-2011, 12:21 PM   #5
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Looks good snu thats looks very good to me im gonna give her a try today.
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Old 05-12-2011, 04:12 PM   #6
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Thanks DLG. I found the can of stain. It was Varathane Cabernet. The color in person is very close to the color of a Romanian Bakelite pistor grip or bayonet.

Not sure how much experience you have with BLO, but the key to success is apply in very thin layers and allow them to dry for about 24 hrs. Use a cloth to rub the oil in. Do this daily for a month or so buffing with 0000 steel wool. Then once a week for a month without buffing and once a month for a year. If you live in a very hot climate you might be able to do a coat once every 12 hours.
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Old 05-12-2011, 10:22 PM   #7
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Never have worked with it snu but your making it seem to easy lol i appreciate the help ill follow those directions as best as i can
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Old 05-14-2011, 02:00 PM   #8
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Confirmed NON-wood guy here. Tried the pine tar, not a fan. (probably doing it wrong) And it stinks. Threw some blo on it hoping to seal the stink in some. The blo smell too... not nearly like pt though.

I will continue testing but haven't found it to be the holly grail. Can't wait till it get hot this summer and the pt & blo give me a stinky wet lick on the cheek.
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Old 05-15-2011, 11:47 PM   #9
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Tru-oil...nuff said
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Old 05-16-2011, 07:02 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorincoKid
Tru-oil...nuff said

+1 to Tru Oil.
BLO is OK on bare wood where it can penetrate and seal but on finished wood it is very slow tro dry or harden in my experience.
Tru Oil dries over night and creates a nice satin finish in one or two applications.
I like BLO but not for a finished wod. I apply it before stain in some cases to seal up the wood and brighten the grain first.
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Old 05-17-2011, 08:23 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKBLUE
+1 to Tru Oil.
BLO is OK on bare wood where it can penetrate and seal but on finished wood it is very slow tro dry or harden in my experience.
Tru Oil dries over night and creates a nice satin finish in one or two applications.
I like BLO but not for a finished wod. I apply it before stain in some cases to seal up the wood and brighten the grain first.
So staining over BLO works pretty good? I just got a butt stock that has been BLO'd, and I'd like to apply an alcohol based stain (Chestnut Ridge) over it. I have read it keeps the stain from getting too dark, and with the tiger stripe grain of the oak it might look great.
http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showpo...56&postcount=1
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Old 05-17-2011, 08:40 PM   #12
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Works for me. Depends on the product and color I'm sure. But the Transtint works over BLO base. Or even as a blush over shellac. Dunno about your mix but worth a try.

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Old 05-17-2011, 10:45 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan FS71
Confirmed NON-wood guy here. Tried the pine tar, not a fan. (probably doing it wrong) And it stinks. Threw some blo on it hoping to seal the stink in some. The blo smell too... not nearly like pt though.

I will continue testing but haven't found it to be the holly grail. Can't wait till it get hot this summer and the pt & blo give me a stinky wet lick on the cheek.
PM me for your Swedish pine tar help. I am Swedish and we were trained from birth to use this product. First up if you you don't like the smell, drink vodka. If that does not help drink more. If all else fails pray to Odin. All jokes aside use shellac to seal the pine tar. Coat every surface, even the inside of you hand guards. You need to make your own shellac, store bought has bad JuJu. Buy it from shellac.net. Mix it up with denatured alcohol. BLO is not a good sealant . On an up note you can shellac over BLO if you like the color. When your shellac sits for a week give it a couple coats of minwax paste wax.You should be go to go. No more smell and chemical resistant. For real...... PM me, I will help.
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Old 05-17-2011, 11:46 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stoned_Oli
So staining over BLO works pretty good? I just got a butt stock that has been BLO'd, and I'd like to apply an alcohol based stain (Chestnut Ridge) over it. I have read it keeps the stain from getting too dark, and with the tiger stripe grain of the oak it might look great.
http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showpo...56&postcount=1
dood that's beech, not oak, though they are related. you can use chestnut ridge over an oil finish, but yours looks like more than just BLO. also be advised that chestnut ridge will come out a very red brown over beech. if you wan t something less red, use fiebing's dark brown leather dye. they are said to make the chestnut ridge dye, I have both, I believe it, the bottles are the same.

and that's not "tiger striping," that's called raying.

if that buttstock were mine, I would leave it light in color, just use straight shellac over it, either garnet or amber. amber will look orange-ish, like the HGs. if you go with garnet, you will have to refinish the HGs to match.
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Old 05-17-2011, 11:51 PM   #15
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BLO is impervious to most solvents, paint strippers included. Shellac is not impervious to the most common solvent, water.

I've used Shellac, BLO and Poly all with good results. Under most circumstances I recommend you don't use Shellac. It's good for an authentic finish, such as an AMD-65, otherwise there are better alternatives.

I've never tried pine tar, although I have seen some impressive work done with it. If you can find someone with experience using it I'd say it's worth a shot. Otherwise use BLO for showy finish, Poly for a quick finish, Shellac for an authentic finish.
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:08 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by delloro
dood that's beech, not oak, though they are related. you can use chestnut ridge over an oil finish, but yours looks like more than just BLO. also be advised that chestnut ridge will come out a very red brown over beech. if you wan t something less red, use fiebing's dark brown leather dye. they are said to make the chestnut ridge dye, I have both, I believe it, the bottles are the same.

and that's not "tiger striping," that's called raying.

if that buttstock were mine, I would leave it light in color, just use straight shellac over it, either garnet or amber. amber will look orange-ish, like the HGs. if you go with garnet, you will have to refinish the HGs to match.
Thanks for the info! The stock wood does look like my Iver Johnson/Erma M1 .22 carbine stock, and I think I read in the past that it was beech.
I like your idea of matching the original HG, but that easy 922r point is mighty tempting...
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Old 05-18-2011, 07:27 PM   #17
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My choices for finish are not correct but gave incredible results.
Ironwood stocks:
Walnut - 15+ coats of pure Tung oil
Laminate - 5 coats of Tung oil with trans tint purple added, followed by
10+ coats of pure Tung oil
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