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Old 01-27-2011, 09:13 PM   #1
kiki
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Default cold blue or paint ak?

bought a wasr 10/63 and i started to touch her up. now, what cold blue is closest to original finsh or better? or do i duracoat it.........please tell me your experiences ....thank you
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Old 01-29-2011, 07:58 AM   #2
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i just built a romy g with polish underfolder and i used birchwood casey super blue on the receiver and barrel for long term temporary coat. it matches very well for color but it does look kind of weird mixing blued and parked finishes. but i also have a 68 romy and it looks like the cold blue would work well for me as i'm not going to refinish my roy parts but i'm going to age the receiver and barrel to match. i think it would look good personally but it depends on what look you're going for
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:43 PM   #3
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cold blue is a bitch initially.. touch up is easy.. paint.. well its paint.. just cant see putting paint on a rifle (xept a 74)

i have NO idea what paint over blue will do
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Old 01-29-2011, 06:53 PM   #4
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Depends on what you want to do with it. Ive had some very good results with Alumahyde and other such spray on coatings. Bluing is awesome, but hard to get right. Paint has the advantage of having some corrosion resistance. Either way, its up to you.


What are your plans for the rifle in question?

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Old 01-29-2011, 08:23 PM   #5
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A quality coating like Gunkote is far and away better for protection from the elements than bluing.
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Old 01-30-2011, 12:56 AM   #6
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Cold blue is a touch up. It wears off easily and doesn't do much, if anything to deter rust.

There's a big difference between spray paint and weapons finishes. GunKote, Molyresin and so on are specialized finishes that last very well. The surface needs to be very clean and abrasive blasted before application. An even more durable finish is to blast, park and then finish.

If you want to blue the rifle, check out rust bluing. There's a sticky about it.
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Old 01-30-2011, 05:54 AM   #7
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Ronin, I knew you were going to say that when I
clicked on this thread.

Rust Blue Sticky.

And yeah, paint (weapons paint) is a serious process
but could be down w/o a blaster. Parking however ...

OP is wanting to "touch-up"?

WASR's are parked, painted, I think? In that case
ton's of carb cleaner, and touch-up spray from an
airbrush Alumahyde. Guncoat, Molyresin are too nice.

Oven cure is great, or let it dry.

If you dive into the rust blue thread ... once the bluing
processes are done the final step is to mix some linseed oil
with high quality artist alkyd 'lamp black' ... apply light coat (really lite
coat ... wipe it off mostly) and then baking this in a 300 degree oven for
an hour to set the oils. Would work fine for coloring, if there is
texture from the original parking left. Find more info in the
thread if that seems like it would "touch-up" for your
needs.
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Old 01-30-2011, 06:24 AM   #8
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that is true about cold blue being for touch up and temporary i kinda forget that living in colorado from my experience rust is not an issue with how dry we are here, one of my builds was bare metal for 3 or 4 months with lots of shooting and it never got even a speck of rust on it. but cold blue does wear off easily. that's why i said depends on the look you're going for a bfpu i have in the works i'm going to try a light cold blue finish on the receiver and barrel and that oil cure in the rust blue thread. though i completely agree with park and paint being the most durable. and maybe the most durable combo i can think of would be black oxide it then manganese phosphate it then gunkote it then do the boiled linseed oil artists black cure over all of that hehe
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Old 01-30-2011, 08:57 AM   #9
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I never really thought about parking and then doing the artist black over that. It might look pretty slick. I'll have to experiment with that some day.
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Old 01-30-2011, 11:59 AM   #10
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i thought it would be nice to smoothen manganese phos but then talking to guys ive been told i should be able to pre black the parts ten zink phos it and the pre black should make it nice and dark while the zinc should be a little smoother. but i still want to try oil curing the regular manganes park.

but you missed a step in my little joke in my earlier post. you artist black over the gunkote hehe
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Old 01-30-2011, 03:22 PM   #11
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Header paint. The thing is, painting protects against corrosion just fine and when it gets beat up, you just do a quick strip or just paint over it. Quick, dirty and in the truest spirit of the AK. You can go through all the histrionics of specialty coatings and bluing and what knot, but when it gets some wear, are you really any better off?
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Old 01-30-2011, 03:27 PM   #12
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I need some touch up on my romy myself.
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Old 01-30-2011, 03:52 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bubbajj
Header paint. The thing is, painting protects against corrosion just fine and when it gets beat up, you just do a quick strip or just paint over it. Quick, dirty and in the truest spirit of the AK. You can go through all the histrionics of specialty coatings and bluing and what knot, but when it gets some wear, are you really any better off?
from what i understand about duracoat is that it is basicly header paint just availible in more colors as it uses a hardener and stuff just like automotive paint.

also i agree with you that some of the specialty coatings are not the best for durability but from what i understand about the baked on linseed oil artists black is the even solvants and thinners and stuff wont take it off ironicly what takes it off is warm soapy water and lots of elbow grease from what ive been told. i actually like all the finishes talked about in this thread just for different reasons and purposes. i don't feel that one type of finish is better than the reast at all times my beater gun is done with bbq grill paint and i need to touch it up but it's holding up fine

for what it's worth touching up blue even with hot blue is about as easy as touching up with paint, you don't have to blast it all off and re-do it just clean it degrease it and blue over the existing blueing maybe if the metal has a deep scratch you might have to address those with som sand paper but no different than painting though paint can help hide minor imperfections while blueing can sometimes magnify them.
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Old 01-30-2011, 04:00 PM   #14
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I think Duracoat is the two part Poulane with some additives - kind of like spray on epoxy with pigment. The challenge is that the no-bake one needs to cure a couple of *weeks* before you reassemble it.

Tell you what, if you blast then parkerize and then apply Molyresin that bakes on, that is one hell of a durable finish. I just started the three step process last year, this will be my third summer with it, and the stuff holds up amazingly well to solvents, etc.
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Old 01-30-2011, 04:56 PM   #15
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do you color the moly resin or is it clear? im not familiar with it but might have to try it out
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Old 01-30-2011, 05:40 PM   #16
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I sure as hell wouldn't waste my time using "duracoat". Maybe on the stock,or some other non-heated or non-friction part,but not on the action.
The linseed oil/lampblack would most likely bubble up or even burn off at high temps,like rapid firing.And it would offer little or no friction reducing properties.
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Old 01-30-2011, 05:56 PM   #17
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i ouldn't want to try duracoat either.

not sure about the linseed oil as a very thin layer is applied then cured in the oven but then again i've never tried it, maybe i should. though it would really suck to have linseed oozing everywhere. from what i understand the oil lampblack cures and is alot like the finish on pre-seasoned cast iron pans if it is like that i might be interesting to try. i'm not trying to find a better coating that paint and park i just like trying new things
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