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#1 |
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Member
AKaholic #: 306 Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 130
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I have an AMD65 that I am getting ready to build, so I have been soaking teh barrel pin with WD40 for about 1 week. Earlier today, I tried to press the pin out using a 1/4" grade 8 bolt and a large bench vice.
Well, so far the barrel pin has not moved, the grade 8 bolf has bent, and I am considering goping back to my original plan of a screw build. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks |
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#2 |
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Member
AKaholic #: 2620 Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Omro, WI
Posts: 126
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My trick to removing barrel pins is this:
Take an appropriate size punch, (a little smaller than the pin) Hold the punch in a vise grip pliers Take your 2 pound hammer Line the punch up Give a good whack with the hammer Try the press again Sometimes it takes a little "shock" to free up the pin so you can press it out. Other guys have used an air hammer with good success also.
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A village in Massachusetts got their idiot back. |
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#3 |
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New Member
AKaholic #: 4072 Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Utah
Posts: 25
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WD40 (Water Displacement 40) is great for drying out electronics and as starting fluid. It's not worth beans as a lubracant. Get some penatrating oil and soak it with that. Than using a good punch, I use one larger than the pin to start it moveing, and a 10 pound hammer. Place the trunion on a solid surface, (I use a 125lb anvil) secure it down, (I use carpet tape as it sticks to everything and won't let go), as Thanatos said, hold your punch with a vise grip in perfect line with the pin, and hit it like you mean it. Once you get the pin moving and down to the surface of the trunion switch to a punch slightly smaller than the pin. Make sure there is a hole on the underside on the trunion for the pin to go into. I like the heaviest hammer I can get as you don't have to take a big swing and it's easier to control. I've built 4 AK rifles and did everyone with this method. Pin out, barrel out, barrel in, pin in, 10 lb hammer, it works. The real secret is having the trunion on a surface that doesn't move. Bench tops do not qualify, too much spring. If you can put a big piece of steel on a concrete floor, you're on the right track.
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#4 |
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Member
AKaholic #: 2620 Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Omro, WI
Posts: 126
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I actually have a scrap piece of 2x10 on top of a very sturdy bench and just drive the pin into the wood.
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A village in Massachusetts got their idiot back. |
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#5 |
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Member
AKaholic #: 445 Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 56
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What I did was to drill a hole all the way through the pin. This relieved the pressure on the pin and it drove out easily.
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#6 |
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Member
AKaholic #: 306 Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 130
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Guys,
Thanks for the ideas. Do you have any suggestions on penetratingoil? I have used WD4 for years, but am will to try something else. |
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#7 |
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Member
AKaholic #: 3391 Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 48
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kroil is very good
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#8 |
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Psalms 149
AKaholic #: 4163 Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Standing in the gate.
Posts: 6,194
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I wouldn't drill out a front trunion pin. I would press it out with a super hard .250 punch on a shop press. Now on the rear trunion especially those evil romie hardened rivets, I usually grind the rivetheads off on the grinder. Beat the excess receiver slag off with a hammer. I do not cut off the nubs that are left sticking out both sides of the rear trunion. I drill a slightly oversized hole in a piece of scrap 3/4 steel plate all the way through. Drill a hole (HALF) way through the rivets on one side with a #30 bit in a drill press. Put the other undrilled side on top of the hole in the 3/4 plate on a flat shop table and beat the snot out of it with a 2# hammer and a punch that fits down in the #30bit hole I made -->beat it like it was Janet Reno. It is absolutely the best way to get them out without cursing a long list of liberals and scumbags. If you do this you will appreciate it. The rivet will hit the floor if you overhang the plate slightly over the edge of the table. An old shop dog showed me this trick, and it does like the post above about relieving the pressure, but if you don't drill but about 3/4-1 inch down in the rivet with a #30 bit, and drill all the way through, you might have more hammer work than you would like.
Try it. I've built 5 kits and this has become gospel for me. L8ters, Geist |
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#9 |
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Member
AKaholic #: 3469 Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: LaGrange, KY
Posts: 72
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I tried everything on my AMD 65. I have a Harbor Freight press/tried Pookies method, used heat/cold the vice method ect. Then I took it to a local machine shop and they have a press the size of my bedroom and pressed it out in about 30 seconds and only charged me 5 bucks.
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#10 |
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New Member
AKaholic #: 4072 Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Utah
Posts: 25
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I use "Gunk Liquid Wrench Super Penetrant" to help loosen things up.
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#11 |
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Member
AKaholic #: 917 Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: West Palm Beach, FL.
Posts: 48
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I have only done 2 barrel pins, but the air hammer got them out real fast.
Court in FL. |
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#12 |
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New Member
AKaholic #: 4145 Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: NE Illinois
Posts: 21
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Curtis at AK builder has a barrel press, pin removal and install set up that works great($80). The best part of his set up is the cup and short pin punch that holds it on the 12 ton press ram. I have found it dangerous to do it any other way! I use metal square rods to support the trunion(I leave the old receiver section on till I remove the barrel pin) and rig something under the barrel to keep that in place also. I have removed 40 year old barrel pins, safely and easily. If you can not get it off I would bet that someone would offer to remove it for you if you asked
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