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Old 08-02-2010, 10:58 PM   #1
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Default Parkerizing/Duracoating Questions...

Hello, all. I just picked up a Romanian WASR-10 rifle. I would like to refinish it with something more durable than the stock parkerizing, and to make it more aesthetically appealing to me, and because I like tinkering with things.

I would like to use Duracoat to finish the metal, because of their color selection, and the fact that I don't have to bake it to cure it. Here are my questions:

1. I understand that Duracoat sticks well to parkerizing. I believe, based on what I have read and the appearance of the rifle, that the WASR-10 is parkerized from the factory. Is this correct?

2. When applying the Duracoat, I planned on disassembling the rifle as far as possible. Basically, as far as I can with a screwdriver and punch set. Is this far enough?

3. Are there any parts I should mask so as to not get the paint on them, such as the muzzle or chamber? How should I go about masking these parts?

Finally, any tips, tricks or suggestions on degreasing the rifle/applying the Duracoat would be appreciated.

I understand that these probably have obvious answers, but in my searches of these forums, it seems that most people skip over these steps, assuming people already know the answers. Since I am new to firearms (this is my third gun, and my first gun that wasn't bought used,) I need these answers clearly stated for myself.

Thanks for any help.
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Old 08-02-2010, 11:11 PM   #2
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I have seen plenty of PICTURES of nice looking duracoat guns. I have never used one. Nor seen an old used one.

I simply cant imagine it holding up?? even to just the selector lever.....

Factory park I have seen after SEVERE use was my issue m16a2, and a 1919a4 kit I built ( minus the RSP of coarse) and I gotta say it held up pretty damn well. Of coarse where the GOUGES were it didnt hold up etc etc but overall pretty good finish.

I have been trying off and on to score a stainless steel tank to try my hand at parking. No luck yet.

I am a cold blue, battlefeild pickup look man myself.
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Old 08-02-2010, 11:32 PM   #3
RG Coburn
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I would use Alumihyde II before duracoat. Just be patient and allow it to dry.
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Old 08-03-2010, 05:32 PM   #4
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I was a Duracoat user and switched. As with all finishes, surface prep is important and abrasive blasting is a must to improve adhesion.

There are two cons to Duracoat's air cure formula:

1. It's a two part mix that you need to mess with.

2. You need to wait two weeks for it to really cure well. My experience was that you couldn't reassemble the AK and not scuff off the finish if you tried to reassemble before then. Drying is relatively quick - it's the curing of the finish that I am talking about.

From what I understand, there is now a bake on Duracoat but I have not used it. I should point out that some guys would rather wait than bake due to what they are finishing, etc.

I did some digging and narrowed my selecting down to Gunkote and Molyresin. There are tons of happy users of both. I went with Molyresin due to referrals, it's rock hard after baking, it's one part, it's non-toxic while curing and John Norrel answered my questions.

After I bake Molyresin, I let the parts cool and the finish stays on really well.

I used to just abrasive blast and apply but started doing three steps - abrasive blast, park and then Molyresin based on guys' recommendations for an even tougher finish.

So - would I go back to Duracoat - not by choice no and the reason more than anything else is that I don't want to wait.
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Old 08-04-2010, 12:40 PM   #5
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I think if you check the contents of Molyresin versus Gunkote, you'll find the same thing. The big difference between the Molyresin and the 2400 Series Gunkote, is the price.

The biggest difference between Gunkote and duracoat is.....uhmm ...ahh...well...everything!! Gunkote 2400 Series won't disolve if you use an Acetone based cleaner, it will burnish to a perfect fit so you can use it on all internal parts, it will conduct heat so it helps to eliminate hot spots, you can reassemble and use it as soon as it's cooled from the curing oven, etc. Gunkote was made for guns. (2300 Series/Seal Teams) Duracoat was made for dump trucks. (Sherwin Williams Polane)

The biggest draw back of Gunkote 2400 Series is that it does require forced curing and the fumes are really bad. That's why our curing oven is a blower type and is vented to the outside of my shop.

Regardless of the finish used, the biggest secret is in the preparation. Just cleaning the surface will not work.

A tip for Knall: Try a restaurant supply for inexpensive Stainless steel tanks. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
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Old 08-07-2010, 02:08 PM   #6
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The resturaunt supply is the best choice for stainless pans, look for half long pans, that is half size long pans. I picked up a 22"x6"x6" pan for about $15 ea. They work perfect on a camp stove.
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Old 08-08-2010, 08:58 PM   #7
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I got a great deal on a heavy stainless parking tank for around $100. I did some digging around and the guy had a great rep and lots of references. I've had mine for over a year now and am very happy with it.

This is the fellow and to my surprise they are still $99. He makes them in Wisconsin:

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