wow, russian 7n6 is really corrosive

[545x39]

i went to the range a few days ago, shot about 180-rounds.

i immediately ran hot water down the barrel followed by some hoppes #9 and put it away to clean better when i had time.

2 days later i break it down and notice theres a light rust, and a bluish color corrosion in my gas tube. it looks like battery terminal corrosion or copper corrosion.

i cleaned it and run oil over it, and cleaned and run oil through the gas block.

this stuff is like battery acid lol

[Kaleb]

When you ran hot water down the bore, did you have a little soap of some sort mixed in and scrub it out with a plastic bore brush? (I prefer plastic for heavy scrubbing) The salts in corrosive primers are very hydroscopic. Any that were left from just flushing it out would have soaked up the water and began to oxidize quickly, even under the coat of oil. I like to use boiling hot water and a good bit of dishwashing liquid. The hotter the water the faster the metal seems to dry off. An air compressor is real handy, I like to blow out everything, then clean the whole thing over again with solvent and oil.


THere's always debate over the "mildly corrosive" and "corrosive"
While I agree, corrosive is corrosive, I have noticed some are quicker to corrode than others. Czech silver tip 54R is supposedly mildly corrosive (as I understand) but it doesn't seem to be too bad. I have hungarian yellow tipped stuff and it's horrible. Turkish 7.92x57 is pretty rough too, if not cleaned in 24 hours.

It also has much to do with the humidity. I'll bet any of you in southern arizona have little problem with leaving a gun for a day or two. TN is humidity hell, even in the house, they'll start to rust in less than 24 hours.

[Deek57]

I agree, the 7n6 is very very corrosive. It only takes a couple hours to start rusting, battery acid is a good way to put it. The bulgarian 54r I shoot is much less corrosive, but if you leave it for a long time, it shows it's true colors. As far as 7n6 and any corrosive ammo goes though, I just run hot water through the tube in a sink while using a $5 50cal nylon bore brush to scrape all the residue out, then I spray a little remoil in there before I put it back together and never have a problem. I left it for about 6 months this winter, and no problems after shooting 7n6 all year.

[545x39]

the barrel was fully cleaned, i just figured i would wait a day or so for the rest.* 
my muzzle brake had light rust, and my tube had it. i have no clue what the gas port looks like, but it is clear, i have sprayed some liquid wrench into it and it came out the barrel.


ive been shooting mausers for years, and turk 8 has nothing on this stuff.if it were cheaper id be shooting pooch or yogi, but im a poor sob.

[n16ht5]

If I don't do a full clean I only run hoppes through the bore real good till I can flush everything out. So far so good. I have used cold hosewater on my PSL with good results too. The high pressure seems to work well

[Kaleb]

Since we're on the subject; Monarch, sold at academy sports, might surprise you too. I always thought it to be non-corrosive,,,,BS! I bought a butt load of .223 back when it was on sale, I put about 200 through my Galil. I got home late and was busy the following day so it sat for a few days. I didn't figure it was a big deal. It looked like someone took a shit in my barrel. I got it all out but now there is some freckles in between the rifling and a couple of pits in the flash hider where I missed a spot. Needless to say I was pissed, but I deserve it. It's my fault for leaving it. I clean up after it AND 7,62x39 monarch as though it were corrosive just to be safe. Aggravating too because the bulk of my inventory is Monarch. Just so you know.

[bounce19712]

Hopppes #9 will turn stuff blue... I thought it was a reaction between copper foulinf and the hoppes...but I don't know...

I've soaked paper towels and jammed them down the barrel of Mosin Nagants and let soak for a couple hours...they come out blue/green.

[delloro]

corrosive ammo in my nhm-91 left bluish material in my gas tube.

[stevejo]

the blue or green is from the solvent breaking down the copper based residue in the barrel and other susceptible areas.
If you have some brass jags or patch eyes, wrap a patch around it and soak it in boretech for 20 mins (few drops on the patch)
pretty blue.

they recommend NOT to use any copper based tools with it, it will make it disappear eventually.

[mikoyan21]

I must admit that I don't know what I am doing since I am new using corrosive ammo on both my tantal and smith and wesson AR, yes, 7N6 ammo, I use windex and water mixed, I spray everything including the AR gas tube, I follow this with carburator cleaner to get rid of the water, then I used WD40 to offer some rust protection from the carb cleaner (potent stuff), so far everything is working with no visible signs of rust, I do clean the rifles within a day.
I might be overdoing things or doing it the wrong way but it seems to work.

[Zwitter]

When I'm done shooting I just spray everything out with brake cleaner. Then lube with motoroil.

[nalioth]

I love these threads.

"Wow, corrosive ammo is really corrosive!"

"Wow, my sister is really pregnant!"

Wow, water is really wet!"

No shit, sherlock.

[steel core]

Windex with amonia is the best to clean corrosive with.

[nalioth]

Originally Posted by steel core

Windex with amonia is the best to clean corrosive with.

Another myth that keeps on popping up . .

[gamblin]

Why buy corrosive ammo? pay a little more & get noncorrosive & save the cleaning!!!!

[Asmodeus]

Originally Posted by gamblin

Why buy corrosive ammo? pay a little more & get noncorrosive & save the cleaning!!!!

In 5.45? Are you mildly retarded?

Half the point of owning a 74 is paying like $.11c a round instead of $.2Xc+ a round.

[gamblin]

What They don't make it??? WOLF!!!!www.cheaperthandirt.com/AMM102-1.html

[delloro]

Originally Posted by nalioth

I love these threads.

"Wow, corrosive ammo is really corrosive!".

some ammo is more corrosive than others. kynoch british sporting ammo was renowned for its corrosiveness; your expensive BG double would rust faster after kynoch than other brands, meaning you had to spend more time and effort cleaning more and sooner. on a hunt, time is money.

it can and does make a difference. walking across midly hot coals is different than walking across really hot coals.

drinking 3.2 beer is different than real beer.

sticking your hands in mild acid is different that sticking your hands in strong acid.

[Asmodeus]

Originally Posted by gamblin

What They don't make it??? WOLF!!!!www.cheaperthandirt.com/AMM102-1.html

Read my post again... what do you not understand?

Commercial Russian ammo for 5.45 is twice as expensive as it's 7n6 counterpart.

http://gun-deals.com/ammo.php?caliber=5.45x39

Something that would have been evident to you if your link had a price tag attached.

That's 2 rounds for every one bought. Or, 1000 instead of 500. Is any of this sinking in yet?

[Nosrac]

Originally Posted by steel core

Windex with amonia is the best to clean corrosive with.

See for yourself. Take two cups, put the same amount of hot water in one and windex in the other. Drop rock salt or aquarium salt rocks in each. Use the same amount in each cup...or in my case the same number of salt rocks.

Guess which one takes almost 7x longer to dissolve the salt?

One more myth busted.

[millersm99]

Originally Posted by Asmodeus

Read my post again... what do you not understand?

Commercial Russian ammo for 5.45 is twice as expensive as it's 7n6 counterpart.

http://gun-deals.com/ammo.php?caliber=5.45x39

Something that would have been evident to you if your link had a price tag attached.

That's 2 rounds for every one bought. Or, 1000 instead of 500. Is any of this sinking in yet?

I guess it comes down to what your time is worth and what you can afford.

Also, my experience is sooner or later you will encounter corrosion somewhere on your weapon if you shoot corrosive. Guaranteed. Not worth it to me.

[Swoopster]

nobody has ever sucessfully answered this question for me. In Afghanistan, are you telling me that every f'n day after a firefight, the Sov's went back to camp to boil water for their 74's. This makes NO sense to me. It never has. Shit they used to talk about the AR being a maintainence probem in Nam.

I don't get it!

swoops

[KalashnikovFan]

Originally Posted by mikoyan21

I must admit that I don't know what I am doing since I am new using corrosive ammo on both my tantal and smith and wesson AR, yes, 7N6 ammo, I use windex and water mixed, I spray everything including the AR gas tube, I follow this with carburator cleaner to get rid of the water, then I used WD40 to offer some rust protection from the carb cleaner (potent stuff), so far everything is working with no visible signs of rust, I do clean the rifles within a day.
I might be overdoing things or doing it the wrong way but it seems to work.

take a patch, spray some break free on it, then use it to chase with after you're done cleaning. Do not follow up with a dry patch. Let the break free dry inside the barrel. That's what I do. The break free has non corrosive properties, might as well use it to your advantage.

you can also rub the soaked cloth with some soap and it'll coat the barrel REAL good

And yes the whole point of shooting Russian ammo is that it's cheaper. And it's fun to buy it in bulk too. I like to watch people get bug eyed when I mention I have a whole lot of ammo. Then I laugh and say "My house is not the house you wanna rob in my neighborhood."

[FloridaAKM]

In WWI &WWII, there was nothing, but corrosive ammo & the soldiers were taught to CLEAN the guns when they could. They had to be cleaned!
We have the same type corrosive ammo, but have the time to clean the corrosive stuff out of the barrels & gas system if you have one.
If you can't clean your rifle after firing it, DO NOT buy corrosive ammo to shoot period.
It's all a matter of money vs time cleaning.
I will clean the stink out of my rifles after shooting corrosive ammo thru them for I like to shoot good ammo that will last many decades of storage. Shooting noncorrosive ammo is when you want to be lazy about proper cleaning in an emergency or a glut of cheap NC ammo from years ago!

[gamblin]

Originally Posted by Asmodeus

Read my post again... what do you not understand?

Commercial Russian ammo for 5.45 is twice as expensive as it's 7n6 counterpart.

http://gun-deals.com/ammo.php?caliber=5.45x39

Something that would have been evident to you if your link had a price tag attached.

That's 2 rounds for every one bought. Or, 1000 instead of 500. Is any of this sinking in yet?

My point was no matter how much ammo you get for the money, it's not worth it if it is corrosive. In the long run it will ruin you weapon no matter how much you clean it. I don't care what it cost.

[KalashnikovFan]

Well I'm looking forward to building some AKs as a hobby so I know it'll be worth it for me because I'm going to get a barrel press. So when I finally do shoot the chrome out of the barrel, just change it out, do a headspace check and keep shooting.

[Tennmogger]

I've been shooting corrosive ammo in one of my Mosin Nagants since 1965 and the rifle is still in good condition. A thorough washing with soap and water, drying, and lubing will keep them working a long time. BTW, wish I had bought a bunch back then for less than $25, but I was making a buck an hour. Kind of puts today's seemingly high prices in perspective.

[IRONWORKER]

Originally Posted by gamblin

My point was no matter how much ammo you get for the money, it's not worth it if it is corrosive. In the long run it will ruin you weapon no matter how much you clean it. I don't care what it cost.

Shooting corrosive ammo will NOT ruin your weapon - Improper cleaning will - If CA would ruin a weapon "no matter how much you clean it" no one would own a Mauser rifle, i have several with beautiful bores that have lived on a diet of CA for 60+ yrs

[Firefly]

Originally Posted by gamblin

My point was no matter how much ammo you get for the money, it's not worth it if it is corrosive. In the long run it will ruin you weapon no matter how much you clean it. I don't care what it cost.

Thats not true at all.If you clean your rifle properly you won't ruin it.

[Asmodeus]

Originally Posted by gamblin

My point was no matter how much ammo you get for the money, it's not worth it if it is corrosive. In the long run it will ruin you weapon no matter how much you clean it. I don't care what it cost.

Your initial response makes more sense now too. You're commenting on a subject you know absolutely nothing about.

Typical...

[combat engineer]

Originally Posted by Asmodeus

Your initial response makes more sense now too. You're commenting on a subject you know absolutely nothing about.

Typical...

Gee, I don't know it sure sounds like he knows everything to me.

[SF Mike]

I'm 63 and have a few old pieces I have fired corrosive primered ammo through for many years.
Black powder as well.

They all look like they are going to outlast me by far.

[gamblin]

OK, I'm new to this stuff I didn't know. My friends told me not to use it. I've only been in the foreign ammo for a year or so. If you guys say its OK I'll believe it. I've been told wrong before.

[RG Coburn]

Originally Posted by nalioth

I love these threads.


"Wow, my sister is really pregnant!

Well don't look at me...

[KernelKrink]

Prior to WWII almost all milspec ammo was corrosive primed, the first widespread use of non-corrosive primers was .30 cal ammo for the M1 Carbine. The gas piston quickly rusted on those when corrosive primers were used as it was not normally removed during cleaning. So the war dept specified non-corrosive for those rounds only. While much pre-WWII commercial ammo was loaded with non-corrosive primers, the formulations of the day were not long lasting and reliable enough for military use where the same lot of ammo may be baking in the North African desert for months and then delivered to troops fighting the battle of the bulge in sub-zero weather.

Advancements in primer chemistry brought about by WWII needs resulted in the primers we use today, clean and reliable. Even into the 50's the US was still requiring corrosive primers in some ammunition, eventually switching to non for everything at some point. Many foreign militaries resisted this change much longer (some still load it), which is why most foreign milspec ammo is corrosive. Even some current foreign commercial ammo is corrosive, I would guess the primers are cheaper or easier to make for them.

My Dad went through basic training in the Army in 1942. He was taught you cleaned the gun as soon as possible after firing, and then for the next two days you cleaned it again once per day for a total of 3 cleanings one day apart. If it was fired before the 3rd cleaning the process was reset. They used the military issued cleaner designed for corrosive ammo, still available today in the original WWII cans at most surplus stores. Even without chrome plating one is more likely to encounter a worn out bore (either from firing or scraping of steel cleaning rods) on WWII era US arms than a corroded one. If it is, most likely it happened in civillian ownership.

We are "spoiled" with todays non-corrosive primers. Dad and Granddad cleaned their rifles with the cleaning supplies of their day and had no problems with corrosive ammo.