first build, can you help?

[bluecz97b]

I'm building my first ak. I've already demilled my amd parts kit. I am going to parkerize for the finish. Do you think parkerizing is good enough, or parkerize and paint? When I parkerize, do i rivet the gun together first or parkerize the parts first? Should i install the barrel and blind rivet the brake on before parkerizing? I'ld appreciate all the good advise!

[ronin]

It's your preference really. Some guys just park. I park and then finish with Molyresin,.

I test fire and make sure it's all set. I then field strip, clean, clean, clean and clean some more. Then I park and finish.

Why do you need to pin the brake on? If you need to for regulatory reasons, then I'd do that first and then park.

[bluecz97b]

Barrel is the original 12.5". I need to pin the brake on to acheve length or else its an SBR. So, your saying I should assemble first and parkerize last with the barrel and trunions attached.

[bluak47]

finish second, yeah my way also. after finish, your gun oil is going to be protecting the unparked metal under the rivets. the military finish is not just gloss prevention, it is to hold the lube/paint/baked linseed finish in place. under the rivet heads is a tight space anyway, so evaporation is not such a problem. thats why the park kits say soak everything after parking.

there are good reasons for test firing/tweaking before laying down the final finish on our one -off builds. in a factory setting, they can count on repetition : pre finishing components, and then final assembely.

i believe silver solder is ok on the AMD FB. normally tack welded.

[KernelKrink]

Some people park twice, first before assembly (at least the receiver, trunnions and TG) to ensure the surfaces that sit against each other are parked, then after assembly to get everything. Factory finish is normally paint over park, any of the bake on paints marketed as gun finishes is going to be more durable than factory. Plain park works too, you just have to oil it periodically.

BTW, make sure the bbl extension is attached before installing the bbl. While it is unlikely you will get busted during the 15 minutes it takes to attach it after bbl pressing, do not take the chance.

[ronin]

Originally Posted by bluecz97b

Barrel is the original 12.5". I need to pin the brake on to acheve length or else its an SBR. So, your saying I should assemble first and parkerize last with the barrel and trunions attached.

Is your extension steel or aluminum?

BTW, you'll notice a number of approaches as the Kernel pointed out.

[tedbo]

Originally Posted by KernelKrink

BTW, make sure the bbl extension is attached before installing the bbl. While it is unlikely you will get busted during the 15 minutes it takes to attach it after bbl pressing, do not take the chance.

Kernel is right. It doesn't take THAT long to keep yer butt on the side of caution and on the correct side of the law.

[ronin]

Darned good point on the SBR avoidance.

[allesennogwat]

Hungarian AK's are painted only with no park. You can park them though.

[bluecz97b]

Thanks for all of the great advise, I appreciate everybodys input. My extended brakes are all steel, I have three to choose from. I'll make sure to attach one before pressing in the barrel. Is drilling through the brake and into the barrel and pressing a rivet pin into the hole good enough for permanent attachment? I really don't want to weld onto the front sight. Is it ok to parkerize the front trunion and barrel seperately or will that change the tolerance and make it harder to press the barrel back in?

[allesennogwat]

The park'd AK's are usually park'd after assembly. You could use high temp silver solder on the barrel extension.

[bluecz97b]

will the high temp silver solder take color in the parkerizing process?

[ronin]

Originally Posted by bluecz97b

will the high temp silver solder take color in the parkerizing process?

No, parkerizing only reacts with steel.

[ronin]

There are some threads talking about what is acceptable for attaching a device permanently. I'll see if I can find and paste one. Your options are:

- weld (and there is minimum weld circumference - maybe half IIRC)

- high-temp silver solder (not plumbing solder but the brazing kind)

- blind pin (which means you use a pin through the device and into the barrel which is then welded over so it can not be removed easily).

I'll dig for some threads for you real quick. You really want to be legal on this point.

[ronin]

Check out the following for reference:

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showth...ght=permanentl

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showth...ht=permanently

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showth...ht=permanently

[Black_Wolf]

That brake must be welded or silver soldered.

A rivet will not be accepted as a permanent attachment.

Surefire Recipe for trouble.

[allesennogwat]

Originally Posted by bluecz97b

will the high temp silver solder take color in the parkerizing process?

If a clean soldering job is done, it really won't be seen.

[ronin]

With Brownell's silver solder paste that is meant to go on the threads, I think it would be quite hidden from view.

[chief4guns]

Parkerizing is a chemical reaction between the phosphate or magnesium in solution and the iron. It will actually build the surface a few hundred thousands of an inch. I always park the main parts before assembly. example receiver , bbl,trunnions ect. Any press fit parts must be cleaned of parking before assembly. example the bbl to trunion fit areas. You can repark a scratched area ect as the amount of exposed metal is what sets the reaction. for example when parking a reciever you can tell when its done because the reaction (bubbles effect) slows down. I personally like to park assemble test then paint when doing an ak. CHIEF