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Old 06-09-2009, 11:57 AM   #1
CPO TED
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Default Got a drawing of bolt cutter mod for rivet squishing?

I'm looking for a drawing (sketch) of the modifications y'all grind into bolt cutters to turn them into rivet squishers ...

Any help...?

I think I might have an idea how to make the tool more user friendly and precise (?) ... I got some steel that I can grind and weld on and come up with replacement jaws WITH a bench or vise mount.

I DO hate to waste a tool, especially since I'm only going to do a couple of these things ...


CPO T

BTW ... I'm using 5/16 steel ... hopefully the extra thickness will prevent breakage. I'm filing down the thickness at the piviot ... so I don't have to modify the bolt cutters at all.

Last edited by CPO TED; 06-10-2009 at 10:12 AM.
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Old 06-09-2009, 01:11 PM   #2
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Here ya go.

bolt cutter mods
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Old 06-09-2009, 01:17 PM   #3
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Thanks Bud!

now to cuttin', grindin' and weldin'!!!


If this works ... I'll put up some pictures and some drawings.

T

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Old 06-09-2009, 09:33 PM   #4
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Make yours, and sell them to me to recoup your investment.
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Old 06-09-2009, 10:32 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPO TED
I'm looking for a drawing (sketch) of the modifications y'all grind into bolt cutters to turn them into rivet squishers ...

Any help...?

I think I might have an idea how to make the tool more user friendly and precise (?) ... I got some steel that I can grind and weld on and come up with replacement jaws WITH a bench or vise mount.

I DO hate to waste a tool, especially since I'm only going to do a couple of these things ...


CPO T
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Old 06-10-2009, 10:06 AM   #6
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THIS MIGHT WORK!!!

I got the anvil jaw done … it’s a little rough …it does mount nicely in a vise though.





A little closer …







Anyoldways … now to the cruncher jaw …

T
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Old 06-10-2009, 10:07 AM   #7
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BTW ... thanks restorit ... I'm printing out that drawing now!

T
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Old 06-10-2009, 10:16 AM   #8
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OK ... I'm looking for opinions now ...

Would it be a good idea to mill a hole for the rivet head in the anvil jaw ... or should I just leave it flat and smooth.

And then make a couple of die plates that can move... so I can have a little latitude for the rivet smashing?

Any Ideas?

T
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Old 06-10-2009, 10:52 AM   #9
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and a whole other question ... I'm VERY new to rivets. In my whole lifetime I've done exactly 6. And I had help with them. So bear with me.

In the above drawing "A" represents the jaws pivot point ... "B" represents the point the tool will contact and squash the rivet.

Line "C" represents the distance between those A and B.

It looks to me ... the closer B gets to A ... the more squashing force I can bring to bear on the rivet.

A greater length would give a longer REACH into various places ... but less force.

Also a greater length will put more pressure on the jaws ... and probably increase the chance of their cracking ...

A shorter distance will give me more force ... but less reach ...


My question ... Is that length important? Or perhaps better stated ... how much force is required to PROPERLY set a rivet?

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Old 06-10-2009, 03:58 PM   #10
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You want them as long as possible to reach the rear rivets on the front trunnion. I have dimpled the jaw on my set of boltcutters and other than having to use a caebide burr to cut the hard metal it seems to work fine. Separate plates are more versatile though, if say you went to a different head sized rivet.

Rivets vary on hardness and force required to squish them. None require excessive force with the boltcutters.
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Old 06-10-2009, 05:58 PM   #11
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CPO TED as to ur last post read this:

Quote:
Originally Posted by jwc0506
don't worry about jaw length... the way the jaws weaken is if you get them too hot when you contructing them-Sir. i made a successful pair that lasted for about 4 builds+, and i even sold them and i don't know how many builds the guy who bought um off me got in either? hopefully he got several in as well?!

as for the dimple in the upper jaw-yes center punch and drill a starter hole with a smaller bit then the rivet head size ok. next, just use a carbide burr and drill ur dimple off ur drill press. btw-i just held it up by hand and carefully drilled out the dimple hole! lol. oh, and be sure not to over drill too deep! you want it - just shy full depth, i would say 1mm and half would be perfect. i think mine was 1 mm shy, but it seemed to sometimes gouge my reciever slightly if i pressed too hard on a rivet... but you can still make separate dimpled plates to use if you want to? i tried-both methods. the separate dimpled plate allows for a more even smoosh ok. either or is fine, but take more care when ya use the dimpled jaw method if ya choose to drill out ur dimple on jaws. be sure to improvise and you'll make something that'll work!

if ur using a angle grinder to make ur jaws-be sure to use a grinding disk made for metal ok, and also wear eye protection(ansi approved safety goggles)you can find at HF for $2-3 bucks - will save ur eyes from dread.... also, wear a dust mask - now grind away!

also, take frequent breaks so ya dont get the jaws too hot, or grind and dunk in a bucket of water to keep the jaws from getting too hot. the heat, or too much of it is what ruins the temper in the steel.

blueprints will help, but are not needed. all one needs is a good pic of a working model. from there it's all self-designing and stuff. good luck.

tip: when you get to crusing rivet-make sure the upper jaw is flush down on the head throughout the squeeze, and use a little more crushing force on the lower crush jaw as you smoosh down a rivet. take ur time and watch the rivet on intervals. once rivet is seated fully(mated to surface), and hopefully ur inner head is not pancaked too much-ur good there. test the outer rivet with a finger nail. as long as you cant slip one under a head - you know you did well. GOOD LUCK SIR! i am about to make me a new set as i sold my ak-builder riveter. i plan to just hammer in my rear long rivets. i'll make a dimpled plate for the Opposite side and use my anvil as a backing system to back up the rivet, and i'll simply make a bulgarian styled flat head rivet on the side on tapping down the head with. it should come out decent!? J

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Old 06-10-2009, 06:14 PM   #12
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damn! i jsut noticed ur lower jaw is different then the standard version?!?!? sorry i didn't see that ur designing a dif type of riveter? the instructions i left are for the standard bc. in anycase, i wish you luck on ur b c mods!
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Old 06-10-2009, 10:22 PM   #13
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I've got a bolt cutter rivet tool I would trade for some 7.62x39 mags if you want to use it as a back-up or for the pattern.
PM if interested.
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Old 06-10-2009, 10:40 PM   #14
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BrianWV -
I take a second position to whoever is in the 1st position,
but I would like to discuss that swap.
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:04 PM   #15
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I think the bites into the cross bars are important to reach into trunion.






I was going to go with the UN MIlled - bucking plate type.

I have a RESTOreIT1 and it works great. Why I am going to change mine is the smasher jaw binds a little in the front trunion in the two front rivits so I am going to make the footprint of the smashing jaw smaller. Bucking plates to clamp on sides of reciever. Also a dimplier thang is rattling in my brain.


the chomper I will make. The beveled part is right on the money on restoreit1 chomper and worth the $. This is the jaw I am going to shorten on mine to 3mm tp 4mm square with bevels. Notice rounded corners to help prevent stress cracks. Great chomper.


Mill end restoeit1 - good stuff




I thought I had more pictures of chompers that had cracked because of sharp square corners but I look around.

Edit
Only found one more picture.

The reason I saved this picture was I liked the shape of the anvil of the chomping jaw/ Now I save pictures of mistakes as well as sucesses.

Notice sharp squared corners. As I remember = he said he got piece too hot. He will dip in water next time. I have a spray water bottle - but plunge worked better. If peice is in vice you just spritz with water bottle and do not have re-set up in vice each time.
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Last edited by Utga Schleigle; 06-10-2009 at 11:50 PM. Reason: Because my mom ma still dresses me funny~~~~
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Old 06-10-2009, 11:46 PM   #16
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ON my CLAMP-O-MATIC the bucking plates will be dimpled and have masking tape. Then the bucking plate will be clamp on out of the way of the bolt cutter jaws with a C clamp. I am going to make the bucking plates out of building anchor plates. On style of plat will hold and compress all three factory rounds to the receiver like for a flat sided receiver. Then a smaller bucking plate more universal for Yugo and to reverse for dimpling inside the of the receiver.

Cracks and failures can be reduced but never eliminated. Taking only enough metal off to reach in - rounded courners and french curved design - will help to reduce stresses focuses in corners. But cast parts in foriegn lands. It will always be a gamble.

I found my stainless steel french curve. A french curve can help you draw out and grind out harmonic round shapes. You can find them were the sell rules at art and stationary stores. I bought a good one for a dollar. Smaller one are better in my opinion. They look like a AMEEBA and are all curve.
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Last edited by Utga Schleigle; 06-11-2009 at 12:01 AM. Reason: matches nitches
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Old 06-11-2009, 08:44 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by synchronicity
Make yours, and sell them to me to recoup your investment.
Not for sale ...

But I WILL post pictures and drawings if they work out!



T
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Old 06-11-2009, 11:38 PM   #18
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http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showth...ht=bolt+cutter
Another veiw of another restoreit1

http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...1800/short.jpg
an ugly
http://i189.photobucket.com/albums/z...n1800/long.jpg
a 36 inch rear trunion long rivit

I could not find the cracked jaw picture - I found yjethread but the pibture was gone. Now I save the pict in my photbucket so it can not be lost.

post pictures of failures also - or if it does not work out.

This one is super duper good. I will up load and auto feed lator.

http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/8853/bc4la.jpg
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Old 06-12-2009, 02:22 AM   #19
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Too good not to save and make sure we have access.
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Old 06-12-2009, 02:37 AM   #20
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Default YES IT COULD WORK!!!! Young FrankenSchtien Reference

Quote:
Originally Posted by CPO TED
THIS MIGHT WORK!!!

I got the anvil jaw done … it’s a little rough …it does mount nicely in a vise though.





A little closer …







Anyoldways … now to the cruncher jaw …

T
The over sized bucking plate jaw has a 5 to 10 degree angle to it. What was your thinking on angle. Most chomper jaws for the bucking plate type have a straight jaw for the bucking plate - depending on thickness of bucking plate {sets the depth of metal taken off}.

Will work on mine soon have three other projects to complete.
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PLEASE WEAR EYE PROTECT & PROTECTIVE GEAR IN SHOP!!!!!! You can order another part from from manufacturer, but you can't order another finger or eye from your mother & father.

***This DOES NOT constitute GOOD or SANE legal - professional gunsmithing - psychiatric - CPA - MD - gardening advice. Please contactact qualified professional in their respective specialties.*** Go ahead mix and match professionals with what ever problem you have??? That would be funney!!!!!

Last edited by Utga Schleigle; 06-12-2009 at 02:43 AM.
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Old 06-12-2009, 01:55 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Utga Schleigle
The over sized bucking plate jaw has a 5 to 10 degree angle to it. What was your thinking on angle. Most chomper jaws for the bucking plate type have a straight jaw for the bucking plate - depending on thickness of bucking plate {sets the depth of metal taken off}.
There was no real thought or plan ... I took a cutter jaw and copied its outline ...

I DID take off about 1/8 inch to mimic what I would grind off a jaw to make a flat edge ... but kept the angle.

I made the opposite jaw (the squisher jaw?) straight across ... with the hope it would give me more material to grind the best curves in and leave the most material ... making it more crack resistant.


I've checked ... There seems to be a LOT of adjustment available for the angle of the jaws ...

I'm learning as I'm going here.

I think this might work out OK ... if not ... I've just wasted my time.

I got the steel when I was on Active Duty ... and I still got a bit left over.

This is a USN supported Project.

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Old 06-12-2009, 03:25 PM   #22
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Yeah, but does the metal glow in the dark :-) LOL
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Old 06-12-2009, 03:45 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronin
Yeah, but does the metal glow in the dark :-) LOL
LOL ...

Yeah ... I had a GOOD time on A/D.

The Philly Navy Ship Yard raised up about 3 inches higher outta the freakin' muck by the time I was outta there!

That was like 8 years ago ... and I'm STILL doing projects with the stuff I got outta there!

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Old 06-12-2009, 06:11 PM   #24
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Man, I bet you picked up some fantastic metals. The ordnance and tool grade alloys are pricey.
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Old 06-13-2009, 09:59 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CPO TED
There was no real thought or plan ... I took a cutter jaw and copied its outline ...

I DID take off about 1/8 inch to mimic what I would grind off a jaw to make a flat edge ... but kept the angle.

I made the opposite jaw (the squisher jaw?) straight across ... with the hope it would give me more material to grind the best curves in and leave the most material ... making it more crack resistant.


I've checked ... There seems to be a LOT of adjustment available for the angle of the jaws ...

I'm learning as I'm going here.

I think this might work out OK ... if not ... I've just wasted my time.

I got the steel when I was on Active Duty ... and I still got a bit left over.

This is a USN supported Project.

CPO T
Never a waste of time. Test it - there may not ne a problem & you could be correct after adjusting the set screw. If not, it is easily fixed by tapering the new angle. Zero metal off at the end of jaw and more as you grind back. Then use a thicker bucking plate.

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***This DOES NOT constitute GOOD or SANE legal - professional gunsmithing - psychiatric - CPA - MD - gardening advice. Please contactact qualified professional in their respective specialties.*** Go ahead mix and match professionals with what ever problem you have??? That would be funney!!!!!
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Old 06-15-2009, 02:06 AM   #26
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this was dstorm's plan. anyone remember is web site addy?
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Old 06-15-2009, 11:31 PM   #27
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I used 24" cutters and welded in the end of a pin punch to set the squish below the level of the barrel


Dimpled the other side with a carbide cutter to do it without the dimple plate falling out.


I don't know how many it has done, but a few for sure.
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Old 06-16-2009, 11:09 AM   #28
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I like the Dstorm Tooth jaw. Just round out or curve taper the steps. No corners or sharp angles.

I will not polish the end of the chomper thooth, so tooth can bite & gripp top of rivit shank. Less slippage and a more crushing straigth down mushrooming thang. I leave the top of tooth face with grind/file marks or sand blast for positive gripp of top of rivit shank. {Note} rivits should be flat topped (Yes I F-d a few up by cutting rivits to size with a angle on the top of shank)


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Super cool stuff.
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***This DOES NOT constitute GOOD or SANE legal - professional gunsmithing - psychiatric - CPA - MD - gardening advice. Please contactact qualified professional in their respective specialties.*** Go ahead mix and match professionals with what ever problem you have??? That would be funney!!!!!

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Old 06-17-2009, 12:14 AM   #29
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Default G rated French Curves - BUTTT still the artist's Friend!!!


These can help lay out draw and double check dia-namic curves in your drawing / design / grinding out the piece. Smaller french curves are better in my opinion, becuase we are dealing with small asssemblies. Plastic French Curve bought at art store #2.95. Stainless drunk and forgot. Small plastic one better.

You can draw out rounded shape on paper or cardboard / card stock / plastic and use that to check your peice as it is ground out. LB library had metal work artiste~tee exhitibit. Good tips there.

Buttt focusiing stress and stress mapping are maybe not as scientificallly acheived perfectly but cheapy made with the basic thery.
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PLEASE WEAR EYE PROTECT & PROTECTIVE GEAR IN SHOP!!!!!! You can order another part from from manufacturer, but you can't order another finger or eye from your mother & father.

***This DOES NOT constitute GOOD or SANE legal - professional gunsmithing - psychiatric - CPA - MD - gardening advice. Please contactact qualified professional in their respective specialties.*** Go ahead mix and match professionals with what ever problem you have??? That would be funney!!!!!
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Old 07-31-2010, 02:48 AM   #30
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I would be remiss, if I did not post a picture I found recently of the squisher.


The secound notch at the tpp for more reach inside - interesting ??BUTT?? how long will it last??

I like the idea of more reach, but there is allways the balance between strength and form. Also rounded corners could help.



{EDIT} actually restoreit's design does this already - looking his squisher he sold me and his drawing - it reaches even to squish a scope mount on the side, because I measured for someone already. Rounded corners and parked - done for you. I feel a good value {ende edit}
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***This DOES NOT constitute GOOD or SANE legal - professional gunsmithing - psychiatric - CPA - MD - gardening advice. Please contactact qualified professional in their respective specialties.*** Go ahead mix and match professionals with what ever problem you have??? That would be funney!!!!!

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Old 07-31-2010, 06:50 AM   #31
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Utga,

Thanks for posting the 36 inch BC pic. Been looking for that one for a while now.

I have 24 inch ones and use Greenmachines bolt cutter jaws (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED, GREAT TOOL and worth the price) and I too am looking for different ways to squish the rear/center rivets. I use a hammer and punch mostly with dimpled backing plates now, and will be trying an air rivet set with my Florida Pneumatics tickle trigger air hammer next. Thanks again Utga, your posts on this subject are informative and inspiring.

I love the way the BC setup works and when its adjusted properly, makes PERFECT rivet heads everytime. I'm thinking I may have to get a set of 36 inch ones and make the jaws to do the rear and center rivets. If it works as good and fast as the 24" ones, my builds will be even quicker.
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