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Old 11-09-2008, 06:48 AM   #1
G-Man
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Default Yugo M64 Under Folder Taking Shape

I've been working on a Yugoslavian M64 kit that I purchased from Apex Gun Parts. First off let me say that the kit turned out to be a beauty for $145. If these aren't already all snatched up, you may want to get yourself one. Here have a look:



The parts kit was listed on Apex's site as missing the cleaning rod and "perhaps a few other small parts" so I was a little dubious what I was going to be getting. BUT as you can see the cleaning rod in fact wasn't missing. The only thing that was missing was the barrel nut and that's not a biggie because I was going to buy a US one any how. This kit did have a Cyrillic inscription on the front lower. After a little investigation, I believe it to say "kofri" which means "infidel".

Here's a detailed view of the carving:



Here's the bullet test:



So after getting the kit I decided to shave the receiver remnants and shove them into a folded Tapco flat. Here's a view of the rear end so far:



...and here's the front:



Here's the whole thing mocked up:



So now a few questions...

1. How well does that Duracoat stuff work? How do you put it on?

2. How should I refinish the wooden front end and still preserve the trench art? The wood is saturated with cosmoline btw.

3. Speaking of cosmoline... the rifling in the barrel is nice and sharp, but the bore of course is not chromed. BUT when the rear was cut with the torch, the burned cosmoline was allowed to flow done the bore. It is stickier than hell and slow coming out. Basically I've been running a brass brush, then wetting a patch with Hoppe's running it through the bore then following it up with dry patches until the come out clean; then repeat the whole process. I've used an entire pack of cleaning patches doing this and the burned cosmoline is only about halfway removed. Does anyone have a quicker idea?
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Old 11-09-2008, 09:19 AM   #2
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Use WD-40 to get the cosmoline out. It breaks down the cosmoline so it is easier to remove.

I might get me one of those kits now that I see what can be done with one. Thanks!
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Old 11-09-2008, 10:49 AM   #3
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G-Man looks good. Can you tell us what mods you did to the Tapco flat, if any? As almost everyone says their FCG holes are off. Did you use a Yugo bending jig or standard Rommy AKM jig? As I've seen some Yugo flats bent in a Rommy jig with less FCG problems, but with slop in the bottom of the flat under the front and rear trunnions.

Last edited by dadaak; 11-09-2008 at 10:55 AM.
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Old 11-09-2008, 12:02 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadaak
Can you tell us what mods you did to the Tapco flat, if any?
Well I punched the holes for the folder and recoil spring retainer and trimmed the "ears" off the back, other than that, I've changed nothing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dadaak
As almost everyone says their FCG holes are off.
They don't appear to be off:



Quote:
Originally Posted by dadaak
Did you use a Yugo bending jig or standard Rommy AKM jig?
Um... neither. I used my own home-brew jury-rigged POS bending jig:

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Old 11-09-2008, 12:21 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Man
Well I punched the holes for the folder and recoil spring retainer and trimmed the "ears" off the back, other than that, I've changed nothing.
Awesome that's what I like to hear.

Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Man
Um... neither. I used my own home-brew jury-rigged POS bending jig.
-But it is dimensioned to the Yugo right (50 thousands of an inch shorter than the rommy)?
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Old 11-09-2008, 12:26 PM   #6
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thats not one of the problematic $5 tapco flats. are any other tapco flats known to have the issues of the yugo U/F?
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Old 11-09-2008, 12:35 PM   #7
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Here is the Tapco flat that I used:

http://www.tapco.com/proddesc.aspx?I...5-9828303ec886

Quote:
Originally Posted by dadaak
But it is dimensioned to the Yugo right (50 thousands of an inch shorter than the rommy)?
Is what dimensioned 50 thousandths shorter? What do you mean?
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Old 11-09-2008, 12:45 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Man
Here is the Tapco flat that I used:

http://www.tapco.com/proddesc.aspx?I...5-9828303ec886



Is what dimensioned 50 thousandths shorter? What do you mean?
i think he's referring to the smaller inside dimension you get with the thicker receiver wall of a yugo.

since you used a regular akm flat and ground down the milled trunnions to fit it, it's not relevant.
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Old 11-09-2008, 01:06 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 44rdv4rk
i think he's referring to the smaller inside dimension you get with the thicker receiver wall of a yugo. since you used a regular akm flat and ground down the milled trunnions to fit it, it's not relevant.
44rdv4rk, yes that's what I was talking about thanks for clairifing. G-Man, -Maybe people were having trouble with the Blemished flats with the bulged trunnions. http://www.tapco.com/proddesc.aspx?I...3-84f05e4f6917

Do you think you will rivet, screw, or weld the trunnions to the flat?

Last edited by dadaak; 11-09-2008 at 01:24 PM.
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Old 11-09-2008, 01:18 PM   #10
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dude....I just pour boiling water through the barrel to clean out the cosmoline....finish it with carb cleaner.

For refinishing that wood without trashing the art. I spray with EasyOFF over cleaner let sit for 20 mins and then clean it off with Dawn and 0000 steel wool under running hot water. Repeat as needed.

Then let her dry really well. After a few days i might even put in a 250 degree oven, let it come to temp then turn it off and leave it for a day. Then buff the wood out with the same 0000 try to avoid the art. Finish with BLO or I use Tung oil....
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Old 11-09-2008, 04:02 PM   #11
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Duracoat works pretty well, prep is important to get the finish to stay on well. Its got a ridiculous full cure time of like 4 weeks, or you can heat it to speed it up some. I found blasting with aluminum oxide really makes a big improvement, if not the coat will scratch off sorta easy.
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Old 11-09-2008, 04:08 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dadaak
Do you think you will rivet, screw, or weld the trunnions to the flat?
I'm going to screw it to the flat, there's plenty of metal to thread and I can place them in different locations since it's not a standard set of trunnions.
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Old 11-09-2008, 06:32 PM   #13
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you could use drive screws and it would look original.or you could weld it.those trunnions are hard to drill.iknow.here is a weld build.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=4&f=51&t=101594
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Old 11-09-2008, 11:46 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigmegina
those trunnions are hard to drill. i know.
Wow!!! No kidding! I was happily drilling the holes into the front trunnion got 3 of the 6 in. The others I couldn't drill! The drill would go in and just not cut. What the heck can I use to drill this stuff? There are parts of it that are harder than anything I've ever tried to drill before and other parts drill like butter. Any suggestions?
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Old 11-10-2008, 01:07 AM   #15
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it looks good! i can't wait to see how it looks when it's done.you gotta love those yugo kits!

i heard carbide drill bits are going to be the hardest bits around i think? you might try one. or as they say - do a weld build? in anycase, good luck on ur project.
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Old 11-10-2008, 02:26 PM   #16
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Just a quick question. I've received a suggestion and I wanted to verify it before testing it out on my nearly finished AK. The suggestion was to zap a quick bead of weld into the holes where I'm hitting the extremely hard material and allow the bead to slowly cool. Theoretically, the heat from this will temper the area around the hole and allow the bit to pass easier. Any thoughts?
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Old 11-10-2008, 03:22 PM   #17
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G-man not sure what kind of drill bits your using but buy yourself an "Extra Hard Cobalt" bit. Makes life nice...

Last edited by dadaak; 11-10-2008 at 10:30 PM.
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Old 11-12-2008, 07:01 AM   #18
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LOL I tried the extra hard cobalt bits... They didn't even dent it. I did manage to get all six front screws in though finally... I was discussing the issue with a friend at work and said that the steel was "hard as diamonds" and then that sparked a thought. I have some diamond encrusted burrs for my Dremmel. I chucked one of those up and ground through the hard part until I could just continue to drill. Thank goodness for Dremmels and Harbor Freight cheapie diamond burrs!

So now all I have left is installing the center support, heat treating, test firing and then finishing.
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Old 11-12-2008, 07:06 AM   #19
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nice build you have there just got my bbl on my romy in this morning isn't building fun
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Old 11-22-2008, 11:42 PM   #20
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Very nice build. i'm in the process of doing the same. how did you position your screws in the trunion? i'm worried about the thickness of material. also did you cut slots for your reciever top rails or just grind them down on your flat?
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Old 11-23-2008, 01:31 AM   #21
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I positioned the screws similar to the way the rivets are positioned on a standard trunnion, only a hair lower in regards to the center line of the barrel so that I had a little more "meat" before I drilled into the barrel. I did grind the top rails off at the "trunnions".
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Old 11-23-2008, 11:03 PM   #22
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Took the gun out for its first test fire today. It fired and fed flawlessly. Spent brass ejected @ 30 feet to the forward right. I did experience one small problem though. The standard Tapco axis pin retaining plate was sort of a pain in the butt to put in. There were clearance issues with the old receiver stub that I'm using as a rear trunnion. As a result, the trigger and hammer axis pins had a tendency to pop loose on the right side. So I guess I need to switch to using "E" clips on the axis pins. Other than that, it was fun to fire and seemed to be quite accurate for an AK. The screws even stayed tight in spite of the fact that I hadn't used any Lock-Tite yet (because I still need to disassemble everything to put a finish on the receiver).
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Old 11-23-2008, 11:17 PM   #23
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my weld build purred like a kitten.fun to shoot.nice job.
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Old 11-26-2008, 08:59 PM   #24
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Just got my kit today.My kit came complete,even the cleaning rod.I will start cleaning it tommorrow.This is my first post here ,hi guys.
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Old 11-26-2008, 09:01 PM   #25
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welcome aboard slayer, post pics when your finished with it.
i love the yugo's!
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Old 11-26-2008, 10:47 PM   #26
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g-man,howdy bra..looks great.want to see it with the finish..um,use the hitch pins instead of the E-clips.3/16" I think is the ones.you will be glad ya did.way easier to assemble and dis-assemble.did that M64 have the BHO lever in it..?? I see the button for it..
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Old 11-27-2008, 12:19 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ding
g-man,howdy bra..looks great.want to see it with the finish
Yeah I do too. I'm just trying to decide which way I want to go with it. I have all the stuff to gunkote it, but as I get to looking at it, I think I may want to preserve the battlefield pick-up funky look. I just don't think this gun would look right done up all new looking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ding
..um,use the hitch pins instead of the E-clips.3/16" I think is the ones.you will be glad ya did.way easier to assemble and dis-assemble.
Yeah the hitch pins are easier to put on, but the E clips just feel a little more secure... Even if they are a pain in the keester to get on.

Quote:
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did that M64 have the BHO lever in it..?? I see the button for it..
Um, BHO Lever? Pardon my ignorance, but what the heck is a BHO Lever?
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Old 11-27-2008, 12:31 AM   #28
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(Bolt Hold Open Lever)it's on the left inside of the receiver.you can see the push button on the outside left of the receiver above the forward part of the magwell.it holds the bolt open.the older M64 mags have a notch cut in it.just wondered if you utilized it or took it out.I guess ya didn't because you shot it.dang I might just have to get me one of those.that BHO lever is unique to that rifle I guess,nothing else has/had one.I would get some weld plates and do me one up..
as for the hitch pins,I have used em on my builds and they hold perfectly.I have put about 5k through a tantal and haven't had a failure yet,still holding solid.all my other builds have them on
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Old 11-27-2008, 05:27 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ding
(Bolt Hold Open Lever)it's on the left inside of the receiver.you can see the push button on the outside left of the receiver above the forward part of the magwell.it holds the bolt open.the older M64 mags have a notch cut in it.just wondered if you utilized it or took it out. I guess ya didn't because you shot it.
Is that what that is? I wasn't sure what that was. It didn't seem to be a button though. It couldn't be pressed in or moved. It was like a threaded roofing nail on the inside if the mag well and a threaded nut that fit into a recess in the receiver on the outside. Not having it didn't seem to effect the way it shot or fed though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ding
dang I might just have to get me one of those.that BHO lever is unique to that rifle I guess,nothing else has/had one.I would get some weld plates and do me one up..
Yeah I think Apex's supply is running out though. The kits that were matching serial # kits sold for $145 are now mis-matched serial # kits selling for $169.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ding
as for the hitch pins,I have used em on my builds and they hold perfectly.I have put about 5k through a tantal and haven't had a failure yet,still holding solid.all my other builds have them on
Oh I'm not doubting you bro! I guess it's just one of those TETO (To Each Their Own) things... It's a matter of perception... Perhaps I'll toss a pair in this one just to see. Isn't like you can't swap them out right?
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Old 11-29-2008, 01:36 AM   #30
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Well I've finished my AK project. I disassembled everything and blued the receiver. I had considered refinishing the whole thing, wood and all. In the end though I've decided that Kofri looks best in its battle beaten state. So here are a couple of beauty shots of Kofri with my other AK.





This project went faster than I thought it would and I have to say that I am very happy with the results of my efforts. The one thing I want to change is the Tapco pistol grip. I want to buy another ATI Ergonomic one like Kofri's brother is sporting. I'll see if I can't get out and shoot a target for you all to see some time soon, perhaps this weekend.
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Old 11-29-2008, 12:47 PM   #31
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you've convinced me to get one. Thanks.

-I think I got the last one. I paid $169, but now all I see available is $200 matched kits.

-nevermind, I see it again...

Last edited by ItsmyRIGHT; 11-29-2008 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 12-01-2008, 11:52 PM   #32
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Does anyone have any suggestions for 100% receivers to use for a project like this? I presume that the NDS-4 receiver for M70AB2 wouldnt be ideal. I dont have access to a spot welder so Im tossing around the idea of building from a completed receiver. Any other suggestions are welcomed.
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Old 12-02-2008, 12:08 AM   #33
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Apex will be selling repair sections soon. If you bought one of those all you'd need to do is find a competent welder in your area to weld it in for you.
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Old 12-02-2008, 12:11 AM   #34
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i noticed that on their site a few days back. Ive been really interested in trying my hand at your method of build. Only problem is that I dont currently have access to a welder. I suppose that if it comes down to it, I could go beg a friend but i wanted to test the waters on what (if any) finished receivers might work for this.
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Old 12-02-2008, 12:36 AM   #35
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Or just screw the lower rails in. That's what I did on this one.
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