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Veteran Member
AKaholic #: 5494 Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 1,220
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Has anyone tried electrolitic rust (and paint) removal? Been reading a lot of info and it sounds like it would be very useful for those that bought the rust protective coated kits :-D A little washing soda or backing soda, a plastic bucket, and a battery charger and it's rust b gone :-D Maybe it will work on the 40 round mag I got with my AES10-B from classic arms. I'll post results. Seems very simple and easy. A lot better than acid which is what I use to use.
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Curio & Relic
AKaholic #: 8402 Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: War Zone
Posts: 4,629
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Is this like Electrolysis?
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#3 | |
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Curio & Relic
Contributor
AKaholic #: 2223 Join Date: May 2004
Location: Classified
Posts: 4,863
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Quote:
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#4 |
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Veteran Member
AKaholic #: 5494 Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 1,220
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Got a mag cooking right now with a 6 amp charger - might be too little. Well find out by tomorrow :-)
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#5 |
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Veteran Member
AKaholic #: 5494 Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 1,220
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Took the mag out of the bucket on my way out the door for work this morning. It looks like all the rust is gone and most of the old finish on the mag body. I'll go over it closer this evening. Talk about easy. 1/2 cup of Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda in 4 gallons of water. Clipped negative lead to mag and positive to a scrap piece of sheetmetal. Put them in the bucket and turned the charger on (it was a 6 amp) and let it run over night. A charger with more amps will work better/faster. One real big advantage is you don't need to clean anything - just put the stuff in greasy, oily, dirty and it will come out clean and rust free. Another good thing is there is nothing hazardous to get rid of like when using acid :-)
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#6 |
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Senior Member
AKaholic #: 7235 Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 532
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gonna have to try that.
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#7 |
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Veteran Member
AKaholic #: 5494 Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 1,220
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Update. Got to look close at the mag and still a little rust in the spot welded seam where it bulged the seam. Looked at the anode (the positive connection on the scrap sheetmetal and it was totally coated with grundge. Cleaned it off and put it back in. The amps on the charger jumped back up. I had read where you need to clean off the positive electrode so the process doesn't stop or slow way down. The post I read said a 12 amp charger worked well and mine is a 6 amp so I guess I'll have to run it a little longer and keep the grunge off. Impressed so far. Don't use anything for the positive electrode you want to keep - really pits it. Also don't put any aluminum in there - it will dissolve faster than the rust.
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#8 | |
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Curio & Relic
AKaholic #: 6044 Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,636
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Quote:
I gave it a try and it worked pretty well on heavy rust. I thought it worked better and easier than Naval Jelly. I found a lot of information on the net about this at one time...a quick check on the net today... http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm www.davidbradley.net/ERR.html http://www.oldengine.org/members/billd/electrol.htm http://www.holzwerken.de/museum/link...lanation.phtml http://users.interconnect.net/nlinds...ectrolysis.htm http://www.jefa.com/install/electro.htm http://www.rowand.net/Shop/Tech/Electrolysis.htm http://www.alphalink.com.au/~petero/rustconverter.html Its worth noteing that the opposite of "removing" ... is "plateing"...if you can do one...you should be able to do the other... CPO T Last edited by CPO TED; 04-15-2008 at 10:42 AM. |
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#9 |
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Veteran Member
AKaholic #: 8980 Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,749
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I heard about this a few years ago in a bike magazine and later in a car magazine, haven't tried it yet, but I'm planning on trying it on the brake backing plates off of my '57 Ford.
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