Go Back   The AK Files Forums > General Forums > Gunsmithing & Build It Yourself

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 01-26-2008, 08:22 PM   #1
Speedracer211
Member
 
AKaholic #: 6864
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: PA
Posts: 235
Default AK Wood Refinishing threads merged here

What is the best way to clean up some Yugo wood, and what the heck color is it suppossed to be? I have a steamer I use on clothing to take out wrinkles so I am going to use that to steam some of the dents, but what is the best method to get this wood looking good again.

Last edited by IanMor; 01-21-2013 at 09:39 PM.
Speedracer211 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 11:26 PM   #2
seg
Member
 
seg's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 8278
Join Date: May 2007
Location: I see castros people
Posts: 387
Default

I have (UMMM) 1 . I just took it and put it in a sink full of Hot Soapy water ( at a buddy's house ) let saok a few minutes, scrubbed with a potatoe brush, let it dry, lightly sanded and it looks great. Did a couple coats of oil.
Scrubbing raises the fibers in wood , so not tooo hard. The hot water took most of the smaller dings and dents out. Used 400 grit sand paper.
Still has a little charcter, but I like it like that.
__________________
aholic-One that is addicted to or compulsively in need of( example-AK'S, hense the term AKaholic ) This is not sarcassam but in fact the true definition of the term
http://www.yourdictionary.com/ahd/a/a0152900.html
But, the phrase AKaholic could in fact be sarcassam, depending on the person, reason for use, etc.So,Let it be know As far as myself and any reference that I my use in pertaining to Theropy or self help groups is in fact sarcassam
seg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 11:38 PM   #3
konstan@yahoo.com
Member
 
konstan@yahoo.com's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 7440
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 337
Default wood cleanup

Bleach seems to help to get the wood to be more or less of uniform color... Soak your stock in a solution of 80% water / 20% chlorox or grocery store brand bleach for about 30 minutes... then rinse thoroughly, you don't want the bleach to discolor your wood, its nasty if left on too long... start easy and nice and work up to longer soak times... hope this helps, andre
konstan@yahoo.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 11:41 PM   #4
konstan@yahoo.com
Member
 
konstan@yahoo.com's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 7440
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 337
Default yugo wood

It ain't perfect here, but you should've seen this wood before I started cleaning it up... it was BAD

konstan@yahoo.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-26-2008, 11:53 PM   #5
fmjacket
Member
 
AKaholic #: 8440
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 126
Default

I used the dishwasher on several guns. It'll strip cosmo, steam out dents, and remove the wood finish. Let me say most wood finishes, Romy wood has a tough plastic type finish, but it will loosen so you can peel or scrape it off. I like to keep most of my milsurps original so I only do this to a few. Some say the hot water and steam will warp the wood, but I've never had this happen yet. I've never seen a new unissued yugo except for pictures, but I would say the stocks are unstained with BLO or shellac for finish.
fmjacket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 02:21 AM   #6
jwc0506
Curio & Relic
 
AKaholic #: 4865
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,122
Default

sand....,raise the dents with heat,wet rag over the spotw/heat.... sand......do so 50/50 bleach water blend and cover your parts several times.....

sanding should be in this sequence: before ya ranse

the dents git the spots with say 150 g, then switch to 80-100g, then to 150g, then to 220... take it from there with the stains etc..., moving onto a clear coat.
jwc0506 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 02:24 AM   #7
jwc0506
Curio & Relic
 
AKaholic #: 4865
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,122
Default

oops forgot to add-use the BIX or JASCO to strip the old shellac off 1st! do this before ya do all the other stuff we mensioned. use a plastic putty knife to scrape off the crud....read can!
jwc0506 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 01:02 PM   #8
gunplumber
Arrogant Bastard
 
gunplumber's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 328
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 5,644
Default

I use bleach as well, but after the bleach, and rinse, I put in venigar for 15 minutes 50% solution and rinse again.
__________________
T. Mark Graham, Master Gunsmith
Arizona Response Systems, LLC
gunplumber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 03:52 PM   #9
Tapeo1
Senior Member
 
AKaholic #: 4860
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 609
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedracer211
Well there does not appear to be any shellac left on the wood.
That's because the Yugos didn't use anything but BLO on their wood.
Tapeo1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 04:59 PM   #10
Speedracer211
Member
 
AKaholic #: 6864
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: PA
Posts: 235
Default

Do I submerge the wood in the bleach/water or just dunk it.
Speedracer211 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-27-2008, 05:22 PM   #11
jwc0506
Curio & Relic
 
AKaholic #: 4865
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,122
Default

what does the vinegar do?
jwc0506 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 04:26 PM   #12
gunplumber
Arrogant Bastard
 
gunplumber's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 328
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 5,644
Default

I wonder why paper (wood pulp) doesn't turn black?
__________________
T. Mark Graham, Master Gunsmith
Arizona Response Systems, LLC
gunplumber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 05:40 PM   #13
gunplumber
Arrogant Bastard
 
gunplumber's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 328
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 5,644
Default

good info, thank you.

I read about it, and it worked. Most of the wood I'm refinishing is resin laminate and I'm trying to remove residual dye, but I'll take it into consideration the long-term ramifications.

I was using the vinegar to neutralize the bleach . . . and doing a pretty thurough rinse after that.
__________________
T. Mark Graham, Master Gunsmith
Arizona Response Systems, LLC
gunplumber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 08:44 PM   #14
gigolo
Member
 
AKaholic #: 4043
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 284
Default Yugo Wood

The wood that came with my fixed stock Yugo had almost a"greasy" feel to it. So, I just used the South Florida Sun to sweat it out. Took one of those large cookie tins, painted it flat black, and stuck a small stem thermometer in a small hole. Wrap the wood in two layers of toilet paper or paper towel, then one layer of stretch food wrap, stretched tight. I used tape on the end of the food wrap, to keep it tight.Stick the wood in the tin, put in the window shelf of car, park in the sun, and let it work. I would get to work at 10:00 AM, and by 1:00 PM would be up to 175 degrees.In the summer ,185 was about max. I would change the paper after a couple of days, and when the gunk was pretty well gone, a good soap and water scrubbing. Worked for some nasty Romy wood too. Gigolo
__________________
"We don gotta show you no steenking badges!"
gigolo is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 09:01 PM   #15
gunplumber
Arrogant Bastard
 
gunplumber's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 328
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 5,644
Default

shouldn't make any difference who posted it. I didn't get where I am without voraciously gobbling up all the information I can glean. Some works, some doesn't. I learn new stuff every day, sometimes from the least expected places.

I am not a particularly diplomatic person (understatement of the century?) but its simply because I have no interest in extraneous fluff.

Sometimes I get e-mails a page long where I just delete sentence after sentence until I find a question buried in there - usually accomodated by a short, one-sentence answer.

I appreciate brevity and clarity.

I am working on a Yugo RPK stock right now. I first cleaned in in gasoleine because it was completely caked in tar-like cosmolene. Then som caustic lye (Easy-off). Rinse well.

I have not yet decided to bleach it or not - unlike the laminated romy's I can't simply replace it if something goes wrong, so I am going to be a bit more conservative. I do think I should rinse with vinegar to neutralize any caustic that may have remained in the very loose, open grain of the yugo wood.

I found your post informative and challenging to my assumptions. I've been doing it this way because it worked in earlier experiments. I found your post neither terse, insulting, or offensive - but then I have a pretty thick skin for one, and for two, I recognise that the written word lacks context and inflection and so If something can be read in more than one way, I just assume its meant in the best way. I'd go crazy if like some I was to to play the professional victim trying desperately to find something over which to be offended.

You are absolutely correct about the need to be patien in finishing wood. I figure at least a week between washing the wood and applying finish. Usually a second washing after sanding to 220# to raise the fingers. If I'm going to be doing an oil finish, I'll wash with alcohol the second time, and then apply the first oil thinned with turpentine to get penetration. Sucks to have a nice finish on the outside with the wood dry and brittle inside.
__________________
T. Mark Graham, Master Gunsmith
Arizona Response Systems, LLC

Last edited by gunplumber; 01-28-2008 at 09:06 PM.
gunplumber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 09:25 PM   #16
rra1251
Member
 
AKaholic #: 8600
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 200
Default

Good thread. I also used bleach 50/50 to start on my Yugo wood. Then a quick vinegar soak to neutralize the bleach. I followed that with a was cycle in my dishwasher. Be sure to listen for the end of the cycle because you will want to pull the wood out before the heating elements come on to dry the wood. That will crack and warp your furniture.

Also, as gigolo said, setting them out on a hot day, or leaving them in your car will cause them to weep out alot of that cosmoline. As a matter of fact, I left my whole kit up in the attic during the summer which helped to remove a good deal of the cosmo.

USGIGunsmith, I have a slightly OT question for you. What would you do with a garand stock? This one in particular has the proof marks and cartouches that need to be preserved along with a bunch of marks from the bullets being tapped against the stock. What would you do? I
rra1251 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 09:51 PM   #17
gunplumber
Arrogant Bastard
 
gunplumber's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 328
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 5,644
Default

I used to use the dishwasher, but I lost too many upper handguards to warpage, even w/o a heted dry, so I quit on that. For the butstocks (romy) I use Cuda brand paint stripper, but it isn't for everyone, its for the Cuda parts washers and is $150 for 5 gallons.

For whatever reason the lower handguard finish tends to be much more tenatious, so I scrape with a razor, then mechanically sand. not too big a deal since I am cutting off the pistol griip on a table saw, Milling with a 2" ball end mill to appx shape, then rasping to final.
__________________
T. Mark Graham, Master Gunsmith
Arizona Response Systems, LLC
gunplumber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2008, 10:05 PM   #18
konstan@yahoo.com
Member
 
konstan@yahoo.com's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 7440
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 337
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jwc0506
what does the vinegar do?
Neutralizes the bleach (but also produces chlorine gas which in large quantities is bad)

Quote:
Originally Posted by gunplumber
For whatever reason the lower handguard finish tends to be much more tenatious, so I scrape with a razor, then mechanically sand. not too big a deal since I am cutting off the pistol griip on a table saw, Milling with a 2" ball end mill to appx shape, then rasping to final.
+1 to what gunplumber said about scraping. I use the paint scraper, find the shape you like the most, they are not expensive.

Last edited by IanMor; 01-21-2013 at 09:00 PM.
konstan@yahoo.com is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2008, 09:00 PM   #19
rra1251
Member
 
AKaholic #: 8600
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 200
Default

USGIgunsmith,

Wow, thanks for all the information. I appreciate the step by step instructions, you provided much more information that I was expecting. That is the thing I love about this forum!

Again, thanks for the info, and sorry to make you cringe with the dishwasher comment. Although I did dishwash some AK furniture, I would never do it with my garand or any other furniture of value. Luckily for me it has been ok so far. No problems in the short term, but long term - who knows.

I plan on using your procedure on my garand stock. Like you said restoration, not making it look new. I do want to save the bullet point marks and proofs/cartouches.

By the way, do you have any pics of helmet marks on the comb? I don't think I have ever seen that before.
rra1251 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2008, 11:29 PM   #20
allesennogwat
Curio & Relic
 
allesennogwat's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 3738
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 44,537
Default

Years ago on old Mauser stocks and others that were soaked with oil I used to yse the mildest Easy Off oven cleaner. Like water and some oils it would raise the grain and some fluffy hairs on the wood. Some very fine sand paper and steel wool would smooth it out. Repeated the process until the hairs quit rising from the wood.
__________________
Daraclor: A brand of anti-malaria pills which we had to drink every week while on the border. Legend had it that these would make you turn yellow and that you wouldn't be able to tan.
allesennogwat is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2008, 12:02 AM   #21
fmjacket
Member
 
AKaholic #: 8440
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 126
Default

While I don't know what was used, I have been a woodworker all my life. I found this site that states the former Yugoslavia main wood exports are beech and oak. Keep in mind beech has a very tight grain and oak open grain and european oaks look different than ours. If I had to guess, I would say oak because of the open grain, if it is a native wood from Yugoslavia. It also resembles a wood the US no longer has, except as recycled wood, chestnut.

http://www.unece.org/trade/timber/mi...yugoslavia.pdf
fmjacket is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2008, 12:10 AM   #22
VALMET_M76
Curio & Relic
 
VALMET_M76's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 90
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Houston TX
Posts: 7,951
Default

Yugo AK and SKS wood is almost always teak. That is all I have ever seen on original Yugo stuff. Now Yugo rebuilds? I think they will use any and everything at hand.
VALMET_M76 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2008, 02:12 AM   #23
Ding
onomanopeoia
 
Ding's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 7821
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Right Behind You
Posts: 8,507
Default

man I must be a hardheaded SOB.I just sand the crap outa my wood,color it,maybe and then seal it.you guys are way into it.way too complicated for me but I gotta try this stuff..
__________________
I only listen to the 14 little voices in my head,the other voices mean nothing.
Voice#7-"There's Nothing That a Screwdriver to the Temple Can't Fix"
SFC I Corps 68'-72'
Ding is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2008, 11:12 PM   #24
USA1963
New Member
 
AKaholic #: 6445
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 9
Default

great information...tks for sharing.
I too would scrape and sand, lightly bleach wash, pat dry, air dry, sand, sand, sand. stain/seal to your liking.
From the book "Kalashnikov Rifles" by Joe Poyer
"Yugo AK rifles were equipped with either beech or teak wood furniture. Generally, teak was reserved for export rifles."
USA1963 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2008, 02:16 AM   #25
jwc0506
Curio & Relic
 
AKaholic #: 4865
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,122
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tapeo1
That's because the Yugos didn't use anything but BLO on their wood.
you're right! i just started sanding my ab701's stock set and it just goes right down to bare wood! i am wearing a dust mask cause i don't know what type of finish is on these?
jwc0506 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2008, 08:45 AM   #26
bouncer50
Member
 
AKaholic #: 549
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 356
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by VALMET_M76
Yugo AK and SKS wood is almost always teak. That is all I have ever seen on original Yugo stuff. Now Yugo rebuilds? I think they will use any and everything at hand.
I believe you are correct it teak. As i remenber reading the yogoslavia had a deal to build SKS for a African contract. Africa was suppost to supply the wood for the contract. Sum how they cancel the contract. The Africa goverment did not want the wood back. So i believe it African type of teak wood they used.
bouncer50 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 04:36 AM   #27
jwc0506
Curio & Relic
 
AKaholic #: 4865
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,122
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by USGIgunsmith
In the short term the vinegar will brighten the wood and enhance the grain somewhat.

In the long term the application of vinegar will leave acetic acid crystals in the wood which will destroy it over time. Acetic acid is CH3COOH. In five or ten years the acid will cause the wood to turn black as it has been burned in spots. In chemical terms this is what will have happened under the finish inside the grain of the wood. A chemical burn.

The putting vinegar on stock wood appears on web sites from time to time and it is patently bad advice.

I would advise against placing any strong alkali (bleach) or acid on stock wood (or furniture) as part of any re-finishing step.

Exterior wood like a pressure treated pine deck is another story. Common bleach or TSP can be applied to remove mildew. One should then wait a week or two to allow the bleach to evaporate out of the open grain of the wood. Then one can apply a water sealer/preservative. (This sort of guidance is usually printed on the boxes of TSP sold for cleaning decks and the packaging for the water sealer/preservative).
thanks for the advise! question; would the 50/50 bleach water concoction i do be ok for-just a pre brightening and clean up job on my stock set? i need not damage the wood? i think it's ok off the top of my head? not pos?

anyhow, I was sanding like hell today and discovered my 150 g paper is not doin shit! i believe i f'd up and forgot to get 80- and 100 g! dangit! anyways..., i raised my bumps over my kitchen stoVe on a low setting maybe1-2? just heard a slight sizzle and steam action with a wet thin piece of cotton RAG drenched in water and wrang out slightly.... this was done by hand holdin my part(stock etc..) twisting, turnin, anglin it over on the spots over the burner.... and walla! 2 bruises are gonners! i willl sum get my 80g and 100, got my 150g-but will get 220 for finishin touches...i decided on doin my stock set with a stain, not sure what color i will do yet? debatng. i think i am gonna try tung oil as my clear coat? i think it should come out good. any suggestions on a clear coat? cause i have used shellac, varnish & tung oil. some stuff i heard about like; tru-oil, poly and wood oils? but not sure i care for oiled wood-cause i don't care for a wood Grain feeling to the hands....TIA

NOTE; ON MY STOVE RAISING OF BUMPS, DENTS ETC.., I HAD PRE SANDED SLIGHLTY TO GET BETTER HEAT EXPANSION WITH A HOPE OF RAISING THE DENTS, BRUISES AND OTHER BATTLE WOUNDS on my b701 yugo. i DID THIS BEFORE THE HEAT/MOISTURE ACTION WITH THE RAISING OF DENTS ETC..

ok i will allow the bleach to evaporate out for a week...., then i will not use vinigar......., and take it from there.

Last edited by jwc0506; 02-01-2008 at 04:52 AM.
jwc0506 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 12:21 PM   #28
gunplumber
Arrogant Bastard
 
gunplumber's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 328
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 5,644
Default

I finished with the easy-off. bleach, vengar, water on my RPK.

While the wood came out a nice color, there is so much damage to the handguard that if I were to sand it out I'd end up with nothing left.

Dents come out with the steam, but if the dent has severed the wood, it doesn't come all the way out. So I figured it would look better just refinishing as is, rather than patching.

Normally I 'd use straighht tung oil, but due to the dings, I opted for a darker color, so added my mix of special walnut and red mahogany to the oil. First 3 cotes with 50% thinner for penetrtion. penetration is hard, this wood has a very close grain. I was simulaneously doing a walnut G3 stock set and the latter turned out much better with fewer coates.

All in all, I'm rather disappointed.

I had similar trouble with one of the M70s I did - the wood just remained blah.
__________________
T. Mark Graham, Master Gunsmith
Arizona Response Systems, LLC
gunplumber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 12:50 PM   #29
AKBLUE
Curio & Relic
Bronze Contributor
 
AKBLUE's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 5035
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Hilliard, Ohio
Posts: 26,416
Default

A chemical commonly used to bleach wood is Oxalic Acid. Stronger than other agents like acetic acid but not dangerous when used properly. I have no tried it on firearm wood but it is commonly used on wooden boat exteriors/interiors where wood staining anf aging is present. Also on exterior wood elements in decks or homes. I did use it in helping a friend restore an old (1950's) wooden speed boat deck. Woerked great to removec stainuing and discoloration but I'm not sure on firearms furniture with oil and such present.
http://alsnetbiz.com/homeimprovement/oxalic_acid.html

I have read in other forums (mostly Mauser) that the Yugo African Teak story is an Urban Legend. Much like the Yugo Urban Legend that they did not chrome their firearm barrels because they had no chronmium and the Soviets would not supply them. There are native chromium deposits and adequate native lumber supplies. If you examine the Yugo Mausers the wood is similar/same as the SKS and AK. Unless the Africans were supplying them wood for a Mauser contract it does not seem to be credible. Just my .02 cents on that issue.
AKBLUE is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 12:59 PM   #30
gunplumber
Arrogant Bastard
 
gunplumber's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 328
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Surprise, AZ
Posts: 5,644
Default

here are the results on the UF. no chemical, just sand and coat. thumnails near bottom of page.

http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.co...agesmithak.htm

and here is the RPK wood waiting to start sanding. It is not turning out well. The dents have severed the grain so cannot be raised much with steam.




__________________
T. Mark Graham, Master Gunsmith
Arizona Response Systems, LLC

Last edited by gunplumber; 03-09-2008 at 11:59 AM.
gunplumber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 08:59 PM   #31
rra1251
Member
 
AKaholic #: 8600
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 200
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by USGIgunsmith
rra1251,

This bootleg video montage from "a band of brothers" has a GI firing his Garand at minute counter 4:27. Notice that the M2 helmet is very near the stock about an inch to an inch and a half in front of the buttplate.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GxNGO...eature=related

Also otherwise feel free to enjoy this pretty good video montage that somebody put together.

Thanks for the links to the videos. That montage on band of brothers was nice.....
rra1251 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2008, 01:30 AM   #32
jwc0506
Curio & Relic
 
AKaholic #: 4865
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,122
Default

[QUOTE=gunplumber]I finished with the easy-off. bleach, vengar, water on my RPK.

While the wood came out a nice color, there is so much damage to the handguard that if I were to sand it out I'd end up with nothing left.

Dents come out with the steam, but if the dent has severed the wood, it doesn't come all the way out. So I figured it would look better just refinishing as is, rather than patching.

Normally I 'd use straighht tung oil, but due to the dings, I opted for a darker color, so added my mix of special walnut and red mahogany to the oil. First 3 cotes with 50% thinner for penetrtion. penetration is hard, this wood has a very close grain. I was simulaneously doing a walnut G3 stock set and the latter turned out much better with fewer coates.


IT HAPPENS..., I AM GONNA RE-DO MY 1ST RIVETED ROMIE G STOCK SET CAUSE I HAD A FEW DENTS THAT I DID NOT FILL AND IT STINKS! reason i am re-doin it. gonna try a technique that the-kernel told me about to use wood glue and saw dust blended together to patch dents with etc... it sounds like an awsum idea! i am hoping when i re-stain i will not notice the dents anymore.... i am crossing my fingers! this is for my yugob701 build.

Last edited by jwc0506; 02-02-2008 at 01:36 AM.
jwc0506 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2008, 01:39 AM   #33
jwc0506
Curio & Relic
 
AKaholic #: 4865
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,122
Default Jwc's - Yugo B701 stock set restoration project!



HERE'S HOW I AM DOING MY YUGO WOOD:

I 1st sanded off the outer old stain with 100 grit sand paper, then i sanded again and saved the saw dust as to-Kernelkrinks tip. then i mixed as he said the wood glue(o used carpenters interior wood glue), then mixed in the clean saw dust i saved, blended it together on a piece of card board-then i slighly sanded and dusted out the crackes and dings.... next i applied the patch formula with a p[lastic putty knife. it looks awsum! i don;t thin k i will notice the spot anymore after i sand again! i will sand with 150 g next-then 220 to finish. then i will do my 50/50 bleach /water clean up, stain it-and finally apply a clear coat. i may use poly? i think it should come out great considering these yugis been in battle. this is miracle work done to these stock sets. Jim

Last edited by jwc0506; 02-03-2008 at 07:42 PM.
jwc0506 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2008, 02:18 AM   #34
jwc0506
Curio & Relic
 
AKaholic #: 4865
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,122
Default

ok those are fresh patch jobs and they still need to be sanded out. i don;t think i will ever notice those holes anymore.

my next step is to; sand with 150g, then 220, bleah water blend as told-the 50/50 bleach water mix. do it twice, rinse with water, then dry it out. my nest stpe is to apply a thinned out mahagony red stain, and sel it with either a tung oil, or a poly clear coat reg. stuff-not high gloss. sand lightly ebtween coats and finalize it witi #0000 steel wool. it's gonna be-AWSUM!

CLOSE-UP OF BIGGEST HOLE I FOUND:

jwc0506 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-03-2008, 02:30 AM   #35
jwc0506
Curio & Relic
 
AKaholic #: 4865
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Oregon
Posts: 5,122
Default

http://i32.tinypic.com/2ymvadw.jpg TOP COVER HAD A FEW HOLES...

THANKS AGAIN-Kernelkrink fir the tip on using wood glue & saw dust to do patch work--it is AWSUM!! Jim in pdx, Orygun


NOTE; This is NOT done! I still have to sand etc.... i will post pics as i move onto the nest steps.

to be continued.....

WOW-update! you wouldn;t believe it if i told ya! but those spots i patched-they vanished! it actually dried transparent-but the wood saw dust caused blend in with the wood! this is truely amazing what stock set in tansforming into! here i was thinkin i may have needed to buy a new stock set! to hell with that idea! this sucker's lookin great!

Also i had to re-patch-just the deeper dentsm but man is it lookin good! i am getting excited thinkin about how it's gonna look when i am done! i need to get sum 200 g sand paper tommorow and a clear coat there at home depot.

Last edited by jwc0506; 02-03-2008 at 04:04 AM.
jwc0506 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 7 (0 members and 7 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:44 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
©1998-2017 The AK FIles