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Old 10-17-2017, 08:00 PM   #1
Richardmofo
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Default Another G3/HK build

Starting another G3 build. I picked up a G3 kit on FALfiles. Virgin German trunnion and FMP barrel.



I pressed the barrel in. It took several times back and forth, when I got .019 bolt gap. It's a soft .019 and a hard .020. I figured it wouldn't get better than that.

Next I had to drill the trunnion and barrel for a pin. I forgot to take a pic of drilling it but I got an after pic. I just drilled a pilot hole with 1/8 colbalt bit, then 3/16, then finished with a chucking reamer in 5mm.



Then I pressed the barrel pin in. It was a bitch keeping the trunnion straight to press the pin, but I was able to rig it up to work.



That's all for now. I gotta order a flat from RTG and start on a receiver.
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Old 10-17-2017, 08:56 PM   #2
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how much was the G3 kit?
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Old 10-17-2017, 08:57 PM   #3
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cool i want to do roller gun.
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:05 PM   #4
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Hell yeah. Nice
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:40 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by walt_in_hawaii View Post
how much was the G3 kit?
It was $725 shipped. Which is almost twice what vendors have them for. This kit was all new brand new components except for the bolt and carrier. It had a virgin FMP Barrel, NOS HK retractable stock, and a black stock set with wide handguard. So it was a pretty good deal.
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:43 PM   #6
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Fun builds and have done a few.
Fit your cocking tube well.......
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Old 10-17-2017, 09:43 PM   #7
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cool i want to do roller gun.
You should, it takes some cash to get set up, hydraulic press, drill press, welder, tooling, but it is worth it. They are fun guns to build and shoot.
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
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You should, it takes some cash to get set up, hydraulic press, drill press, welder, tooling, but it is worth it. They are fun guns to build and shoot.
well i have all of that!
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Old 10-17-2017, 10:38 PM   #9
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Hkparts has a few Greek EBO kits for pretty cheap... if anyone was interested.


Looks good so far Richard.
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Old 10-18-2017, 08:44 AM   #10
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well i have all of that!
Then get to it. They are fun builds. I would highly recommend buying a flat bending jig. They are pricey but really worth it. There is a lot of welding, but with a tig welder it is pretty easy.
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Old 10-18-2017, 08:46 AM   #11
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Hkparts has a few Greek EBO kits for pretty cheap... if anyone was interested.


Looks good so far Richard.
Thanks,


This is my first build with all virgin parts. So far it's a lot easier.
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Old 10-21-2017, 08:50 PM   #12
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I just ordered a new flat bending jig from RobertRTG. I sold my old HKparts jig over the summer. I thought I was done doing HK builds for a little bit, how wrong I was. I can't wait to see Roberts style of jig. I'll post pics when it arrives.
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Old 10-30-2017, 08:36 PM   #13
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My new RTG jig came in.



One issue is the ejection port deflector hits the jig. On the HKparts jigs they have a cut for it to sit in.

Marked the jig for cutting

Made my cut

She sits pretty flat now
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Old 10-31-2017, 01:15 AM   #14
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OK, so how do you push the flat down without mashing the scope pads? Or more importantly, How do you keep the scope pads from smashing the flat closed too much where they contact first? I gotta say, the jig design sucks.
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Old 10-31-2017, 01:19 AM   #15
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Will you rent out your jig when you are done? Would love to do a g3 build but dont want to spend the money on the jig for a one off. Im very careful with my tools!
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Old 10-31-2017, 08:58 AM   #16
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OK, so how do you push the flat down without mashing the scope pads? Or more importantly, How do you keep the scope pads from smashing the flat closed too much where they contact first? I gotta say, the jig design sucks.

I have always had that issue with the scope pads. I have been thinking about cutting small reliefs for where the scope pads sit. PM sent.
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Old 10-31-2017, 08:58 AM   #17
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Will you rent out your jig when you are done? Would love to do a g3 build but dont want to spend the money on the jig for a one off. Im very careful with my tools!
No
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Old 10-31-2017, 10:00 AM   #18
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If you are good at TIG welding, I personally would not bother with the scope pads and get a section of Picatinny rail and TIG weld it on. I would also install the latest shell deflector.
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Old 10-31-2017, 10:38 AM   #19
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If you are good at TIG welding, I personally would not bother with the scope pads and get a section of Picatinny rail and TIG weld it on. I would also install the latest shell deflector.
It isn't about using the scope. It's about having the metal shoved inwards towards the bolt carrier creating a warped receiver.
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Old 10-31-2017, 10:39 AM   #20
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If you are good at TIG welding, I personally would not bother with the scope pads and get a section of Picatinny rail and TIG weld it on. I would also install the latest shell deflector.
I probably will do one with a rail in the future, but I like the look without the rail.
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Old 10-31-2017, 07:45 PM   #21
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I have pic rails of varying lengths on all of mine. A couple are shorter for red dots and some run the length of the receiver up to the c-tube.

The "trick" is to make or modify the c-tube so the handle locks in the downward position so it doesn't interfere with the scope.
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Old 11-01-2017, 01:17 AM   #22
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Finally home from work so I can see the photos on a big screen.

Where you made the cut with the grinder, it's going to need to be slotted straight. When the metal starts moving inward as it's pushed down in the middle the ejection port lip is going to move straight across.

Clearance pockets for the scope tabs are a given.

I'd need a couple dimensions to determine what else might be needed. The diameter of the center push bar (please tell me it's 20mm and not some 3/4" BS), the width of the slot in the base (should be .912"), and it's depth.
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Old 11-01-2017, 07:58 AM   #23
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Finally home from work so I can see the photos on a big screen.

Where you made the cut with the grinder, it's going to need to be slotted straight. When the metal starts moving inward as it's pushed down in the middle the ejection port lip is going to move straight across.

Clearance pockets for the scope tabs are a given.

I'd need a couple dimensions to determine what else might be needed. The diameter of the center push bar (please tell me it's 20mm and not some 3/4" BS), the width of the slot in the base (should be .912"), and it's depth.
I'll take some measurements when I get off work.
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Old 11-01-2017, 09:36 PM   #24
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I made an alignment jig for the cocking tube to help it stay in place while welding.



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Old 11-01-2017, 09:46 PM   #25
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RTG jig measurements

Small push rod= .750

Large "G3" push rod= .875

Side one jig
Width= .595
Depth= .745

Side Two
Width= .770
Depth= .745
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Old 11-02-2017, 10:39 AM   #26
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RTG jig measurements

Small push rod= .750

Large "G3" push rod= .875

Side one jig
Width= .595
Depth= .745

Side Two
Width= .770
Depth= .745
There's a part of me that wants to lay it out in CAD to see if there's a chance to get a full bend on a 1/16" thick sheet of steel by pushing it into a .77" wide slot with an .875" rod, then switching to a .75" rod. At best, the scope pads shouldn't ever get squished. The other part of me is laughing hysterically at the crap people are selling.
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Old 11-02-2017, 03:20 PM   #27
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The inside of the top of every HK/Cetme flat is 20mm. If memory serves that's .787". The sheet metal is almost always. .062" thick. So for the forming bar to press half it's diameter into the groove with sheet metal on each side the groove has to be at least .911" wide, and that would be a press fit.

So lets assume that the large radii along the tops of the channel are contributing somehow. You still have one push bar too large and one too small to form a .787" diameter top section. The problem with having the wrong radius is that yhe stock adapter needs to fit. The cost of a 20mm bar 13" long was around $7 last time I looked. May be twice as much now.

I would love to see a video of this jig being used.
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Old 11-02-2017, 09:40 PM   #28
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Looks good so far, I'm getting ready to do a couple flats I got from RTG. I'm eager to hear how the RTG jig does for you.

Are you getting your flat from RTG as well?
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Old 11-02-2017, 09:58 PM   #29
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I got 2 CETME kits i will let you know how it go's
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Old 11-03-2017, 01:20 PM   #30
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Looks good so far, I'm getting ready to do a couple flats I got from RTG. I'm eager to hear how the RTG jig does for you.

Are you getting your flat from RTG as well?
Yeah, the flats are from RTG as well. It's gonna be a little bit. I'm working 12 hour days.
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Old 11-03-2017, 02:42 PM   #31
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I got my numbers from a couple kits that I picked up way back when and while looking around on the 'net found the Weaponsguild forum and Holescreek's jigs and videos. I eventually made up a jig for myself, and my numbers agree with Holescreek, if anyone's interested. 2 different sized pushbars?? when did HK make top tubes of different diameters? (I've only handled their older models, 91, 93, MP5) If they haven't made weapons with different sized CTs, then what is the larger pushbar for?
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Old 11-03-2017, 03:04 PM   #32
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Im guessing that there is a method to the madness and this jig design doesn't push into the groove a all. I suspect the large bar gets the bend started an the small one finishes it. I doubt it will form the correct shape but until someone documents how it works I'm just going to wait and see.

Frankly, the cheap unistrut method makes all these machined jigs obsolete anyway.
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Old 11-29-2017, 09:30 PM   #33
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I finally got around to doing some more on this build.

I used the RTG jig, it works ok.



Unfortunately the alignment holes on the flat were punched off center. So once I started to bend my flat it was off.


So after a lot of cussing and a little bit of rework, I was able to straighten it back out and weld it up.


What I didn’t show is all the tweaking you have to do to the receiver, doing a drop test with the bolt, filing the back of the receiver so your back plate lines up with the push pin holes, etc.

Then on to the mag catch, semi auto shelf and paddle mag release.

I bought RTG semi auto shelves but I like the HKparts style better, so I did a little fitting to make it so.

I have a lower I already clipped and pinned, I used it to position my shelf in place for welding.


I’m not the best welder but not the worst either. For some reason on this photo the shelf looks kind of crooked but it’s just an optical delusion.


To me the most pain in the ass thing is fitting the mag catch.



Then I drilled my hole for the paddle mag. I ended up drilling it off and had issues, so I welded up the hole and re drilled it.



Got it right this time and welded the pin in place.


Then was time to weld on my rear sight base. I like to put a dab of super glue on the bottom to hold it in place to make tack welding it easy.



This is as far as I got before I had to fly to Seattle for work. I should be back by the weekend to continue on.
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Old 11-29-2017, 09:45 PM   #34
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Looking good, welds look solid. Good looking out mentioning the flat alignment holes. Never would have thought of that, I'll have to check mine.
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Old 11-29-2017, 10:52 PM   #35
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Nice work!

Not to hijack, but I just ordered a cetme kit on cyber Monday, am I correct that i could build it exactly the same on a hk flat in order to use the hk rear sight or is there more difference to look out for?
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