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John@JCDLESales · 09-28-2007, 06:04 PM

I will post a tutorial on a Yugo M92 Krink Virgin Build probably next week work time permitting.

Bubbajj · 09-28-2007, 06:04 PM

I'd love to see another tutorial on how to install a virgin barrel.

seg · 09-28-2007, 07:20 PM

Thank YOUUUU,
I was just going to start asking question. Plan on strating my virgin M-92 here soon.

light load · 09-28-2007, 08:48 PM

John, I can't wait to see the pics of you doing your virgin. I am getting all excited

Ya always do such nice clean work bud

zoom6zoom · 09-28-2007, 09:53 PM

Great, I have a kit and haven't decided if I want to do the extra work...

BTW....

Best... Thread... Title... ever!

ETG · 09-29-2007, 03:02 AM

Yeah, title will attract every muslem with an internet connection!!!!!!

dasu · 09-29-2007, 08:45 AM

70 of them?!

coinboy · 09-29-2007, 08:52 AM

I thought this was a porn listing and had to "inspect" it!

John@JCDLESales · 09-29-2007, 04:32 PM

Ok Lets Get The Barrel Ready

What your going to do here is get the Barrel ready. By far this takes the most time on an M92 Build. * Don't think that because you got a Brand Spankin New Barrel it is going to Just Push In cause life just isn't that simple and you paid less for a Virgin Kit.

Also some here know just because a barrel has a hole in it doesn't mean the outside diameter is concentric

And by the same token just because the barrel and trunnion were in the same box Does Not Mean You Can Just Push Them Together with No Problems.

Ok now you have to measure your trunnion and your barrel. This one came with the barrel about .005 over at .9055. Too much meat to push in a trunnion weighing in at an even .900. So the barrel had to loose .003 for a .0025 fit at a Dia. of .9025.

You can't do this with a Dremel or in a Drill Press and your going to have to do it on a lathe and Between Centers.

You are also going to have to make the Barrel Face Cuts *With A Mill and relieve the bottom of the chamber to facilitate a positive feed angle. When you have this done you will have to square up the barrel face.

While you have the barrel in the lathe again Between Centers *(Note) Better To Use A Live Center Here) so you won't FU the muzzle crown. Measure and do the muzzle Dia. for the Ft. Sight Base. Also your going to want to do the Hand Guard Retainer Dia. * You want just enough fit here so the HG Cap slides relatively free with no binding. And don't forget the rear sight base and use .0025 here again by measuring both.

The Gas Hole

A Number 28 Drill Bit But Start The Hole With A Centering Drill fits perfectly into the bottom of the Ft. Sight Base from the bottom and this is what you want to use. You want to be On The Money Here Guys and finding the exact center is a must. I use my own method of marking the position of the hole by scribing a circular mark on the barrel not over the exact center of the hole but to let me know just how far to push the Ft. Sight base on. The shadows looking down the hole on the bottom of the FTB can be misleading and I like to give myself some wiggle room. Use the Centering Drill to Chamfer The Hole Just A Bit Also.This should keep you busy for a few days *** Take Your Time Here*** and if your wondering just where your Barrel Pin Hole goes check out the pics this is measured from the center of the Trunnion Rivet Hole and we'll get back to that in Part No. 2

John@JCDLESales · 09-29-2007, 07:43 PM

After you headspace the barrel you are ready to drill the Barrel Retaining Pin Hole. Make sure of your headspace and drill with a Dummy Rd. the exact length as a Live Rd. so nothing moves.

Start With A Centering Drill Again. Switch out to a Cobalt (I) Bit and use plenty of oil. Now Ream with a 7mm again using plenty of oil.

Keep the hole clean while drilling and again Drill Slow And Use Tons Of Oil

Now your are ready to try a new round to check for a nice Lock Up.

There you Go Now Have A Beer.

Some folks will tell you to drill after riveting but I have found it much easier to do before and just push out the barrel for riveting when you have all your pin holes done for all the other parts that go on the barrel.

And you can see why $625.00 is a fair price to build a Virgin M92 Krink

Set 2 Barrel Pin Drilling

John@JCDLESales · 09-30-2007, 05:59 PM

Now you have to get the Rear Trunnion ready to rivet.

*You were smart enough to get a Demilled Rear Receiver Stub. If not you will have to come up with one or use a NDS receiver to scribe rour Rear Trunnion so you can Mill And Drill.

Again go slow and use alot of cutting oil when milling the trunnions as they can be very hard metal. Test fit and you are done with this part of the Virgin M92 Build. Next I show you a Quick And Dirty Way to do your Wood.

John@JCDLESales · 10-01-2007, 04:48 PM

Milling For The Hand Guard Retainer

You will want to be On The Money Here and I guess you could do this with a Round File if you are careful.

John@JCDLESales · 10-01-2007, 05:01 PM

Wood Prep And Finish Quick And Dirty

Me and Wood know each other although we are not what you could call Close Friends I like to make things simple and have found that if you can sand off Gruber # 1's Fingerprints who packed your Kit. You only have now to contend with Gruber No. 2's Not Putting The Wood in a Plastic Bag so it would not get oil stains on it before you received it and it touched Oily Parts.

So some sanding is in order followed by some Steel Wool. * Note I have found the perfect applicator for putting on stain see pic 2. Your wife or girlfriend will know of a Beauty Supply Store and you can find the Foam Wedgies there.

I apply 2 coats of the Military Stain Shown * (Brownell's Has This Stain) in the Pic letting each dry for 18-24 Hrs. I hit the HG's after they are dry with Steel Wool again and then apply a heavy Coat of KiWi Neutral Shoe Polish and letting it dry for several hours. Buff and your are done with this step.

allesennogwat · 10-01-2007, 05:32 PM

That Chestnut Ridge stain has made Chestnut Ridge famous.

Located in PA.

http://www.chestnutridge.com.

John@JCDLESales · 10-01-2007, 09:52 PM

Alles they are in Blairsville, PA about 45 Mins away. I've been using the stain for years and it couldn't be easier.

John@JCDLESales · 10-02-2007, 06:36 PM

Finishing Up To Riveting

You are almost home now and you just have to Drill And Ream your Rear Sight Base and your Front Sight Base/Flash Hider Mount.

Measure and make sure of the positions of the rear sight base and that your Front Sight Base is going to accommodate your Gas Tube/Upper Handgard.

After you drill and ream your Front Sight Base push in one of your pins to keep everything square for hole number 2.

*Note I use a 5mm pin for the top cover pivot as the supplied small pin is a very hard part to come by and a 5mm Trigger Or Hammer Pin are a dime a dozen just drill with a Centering Drill to bevel the edges so they can be flared to secure the top cover.

All the rest is just like building any other AK

Here Are Some Tips

Use Quality Cobalt Drill Bits

Drill Slow With Plenty Of Oil

Ream All Your Holes *Again Plenty Of Oil

Make Sure Your Handguard Retainer Is On And Facing The Right Way Before Pushing On Your Muzzle Brake

Double Check Your Measurements Before Drilling

Hope This Helped Those With M92 Virgin Kits Wanting To Do Their Build.

VALMET_M76 · 10-05-2007, 08:47 PM

Holy crap!

JOHN DESRVES HIS OWN FORUM!!!

Lets lose one of the DEAD vendor forums and make room for these most excellent posts.

Wait, John isn't alone. Gunplumber has contributed too.

There needs to be a seperate HOW IT'S DONE...STICKY ONLY...forum that can preserve all of this valuable information instead of letting it vanish in this forum.

lextech · 10-05-2007, 10:15 PM

+1 on a "tutorials from professionals" forum.

John, so what your saying is I need more than a dremil to build up a virgin?

lsmurphy · 10-05-2007, 10:25 PM

John you are the MAN, no doubt. And the correct tools doesn't hurt either does it?

Scott

John@JCDLESales · 10-05-2007, 11:23 PM

Scott I wish you would have done the wood segment. As I said Wood and I are just Passing Friends and a Woody Expert could have done a Much Better Job than I.

Lex the right tool absolutely helps with a Virgin

lextech · 10-06-2007, 12:24 AM

Yea I never had the right tool to do a virgin right. I mean a lathe

of course! Gimme 2 years and ill get a lathe and mill, so long as hitlery dont ban gun shaped metal.

carrolte · 10-08-2007, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John@JCDLESales

Milling For The Hand Guard Retainer

You will want to be On The Money Here and I guess you could do this with a Round File if you are careful.

what diameter of ball end mill was this?

John@JCDLESales · 10-09-2007, 12:21 AM

Not to be a Smart Ass but did you ever think of measuring the Rollover Pin yourself like I had to do.

This Tutorial Post was for those who want to think and build themselves and not to be confused with a Hand Out.

I'm not getting on Your Shit Man but I darn near told you everything you need to know to DIY

carrolte · 10-09-2007, 02:28 PM

It took you longer to post your rant than it would have to just give the answer.

Rest assured I will no longer post questions in any of YOUR threads. If you see any future posts by me (no matter how stupid you think they are) just ignore them cause they will not be directed at you. As a matter of fact just add me to your ignore list.

Thanks,
tc

gunplumber · 10-09-2007, 04:41 PM

great tutorial.

One thing that might help those who don't have a demilled receiver section to use for machining the stock axle hole, is to get a 3 degree angle block. Then the receiver can be clamped using a 1-2-3 block and the 3 degree between the jaws of the mill vise and you can machine the hole after the trunion is installed.

I used one size lower carbide inch pattern bit, which left just kissing it with the dremel sanding drum to bring it to the metric diameter.

John@JCDLESales · 10-09-2007, 05:12 PM

No Rant Son just trying to get you to use that thing that sits upon your shoulders. How hard is it to measure???? Or for that matter actually go that extra mile and put a rule over the HG Retention Groove of any other AK.

But for those who seem to be challenged when it comes to motivation and initiative. 15/64 Which is .020 shy of 6mm.

John@JCDLESales · 10-09-2007, 09:28 PM

Thanks Mark, know there are alot here who have the machines and know how with a Virgin Kit in hand but needed to know where to start. And the little Tips that make it a bit easier.

John@JCDLESales · 10-24-2007, 05:02 PM

More Pics of finished receiver with selector lead in and position detents.

ETG · 10-24-2007, 10:19 PM

Most people doing the virgin build would probably already know this, but, I would NOT use the rails that come in the virgin kits - buy a set of AK builders. The rails that came in my kit were sloted - no need to ask for this kind of trouble.

John@JCDLESales · 12-11-2007, 06:46 PM

BTT For Freinds Ref.

ronin · 12-11-2007, 10:46 PM

This is a great post. I wonder how the heck I missed it the first time around.

Ker-Pow · 03-24-2008, 02:53 PM

Cool.

This should be a sticky.

cymax · 11-03-2008, 12:05 AM

hello i just got my m92 in i would appreciate some measurement. i would like to know the

the distance between the gas hole and the the front of the barrel. or from the trunnion after head space to the gas hole. if the measurement is taken from the trunnion please take it from were the bolt handle contacts the trunnion.

thanks in advance.

Adventurer_96 · 11-03-2008, 01:30 AM

PM me in a week if you haven't heard from me, cymax. My M92 is in the back of my truck and I'm driving back home after being away for a few months, and I can't measure it right now.

cymax · 11-03-2008, 02:51 PM

thank you very much adventurer if there are any other measurements that i need i will ask at the same time

for the time being all i can say is that like the smell of cosmoline on those new parts :P.

have a safe trip home

09-28-2007, 06:04 PM	#1
John@JCDLESales Veteran Member AKaholic #: 1595 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: White Oak, PA Posts: 1,600	*So You Want To Do A Virgin? M92 Build Tutorial Inside New Pics Added** I will post a tutorial on a Yugo M92 Krink Virgin Build probably next week work time permitting. __________________ John McCaw FFL/SOT2 JCD Tactical Law Enforcement Sales White Oak, PA 15131-2104 (412) 980-1233 Last edited by John@JCDLESales; 09-30-2007 at 12:57 PM.

09-28-2007, 06:04 PM	#2
Bubbajj Curio & Relic AKaholic #: 4250 Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Phoenix (area) AZ Posts: 3,454	I'd love to see another tutorial on how to install a virgin barrel. __________________ You can't spell "Slaughter" without "Laughter" The AK47 is a cheap POS designed to be assembled in third world shitholes by a labor force composed of knuckle dragging, booger eating morons. It was then to be handed out to an army of uneducated peasant retards who couldn't find their own ass with both hands and a map. Thats the true genius of the design and why it remains ubiquitous to this day. Gotmine on Barrack Obama: "He is, indeed, a bugger of the third magnitude."

09-28-2007, 07:20 PM	#3
seg Member AKaholic #: 8278 Join Date: May 2007 Location: I see castros people Posts: 387	Thank YOUUUU, I was just going to start asking question. Plan on strating my virgin M-92 here soon. __________________ aholic-One that is addicted to or compulsively in need of( example-AK'S, hense the term AKaholic ) This is not sarcassam but in fact the true definition of the term http://www.yourdictionary.com/ahd/a/a0152900.html But, the phrase AKaholic could in fact be sarcassam, depending on the person, reason for use, etc.So,Let it be know As far as myself and any reference that I my use in pertaining to Theropy or self help groups is in fact sarcassam

09-28-2007, 08:48 PM	#4
light load Member AKaholic #: 8346 Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 470	virgin John, I can't wait to see the pics of you doing your virgin. I am getting all excited Ya always do such nice clean work bud __________________ " If I would have known I was going to live this long ----------- I would have taken better care of myself."

09-29-2007, 08:52 AM	#8
coinboy Veteran Member AKaholic #: 8035 Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Pasadena, MD Posts: 1,099	I thought this was a porn listing and had to "inspect" it! __________________ WASR-10

09-28-2007, 09:53 PM	#5
zoom6zoom New Member AKaholic #: 9266 Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 17	Great, I have a kit and haven't decided if I want to do the extra work... BTW.... Best... Thread... Title... ever!

09-29-2007, 03:02 AM	#6
ETG Veteran Member AKaholic #: 5494 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 1,217	Yeah, title will attract every muslem with an internet connection!!!!!!

09-29-2007, 08:45 AM	#7
dasu Senior Member AKaholic #: 250 Join Date: Nov 2003 Posts: 716	70 of them?!

09-29-2007, 04:32 PM	#9
John@JCDLESales Veteran Member AKaholic #: 1595 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: White Oak, PA Posts: 1,600	Part No. 1 The Barrel Ok Lets Get The Barrel Ready What your going to do here is get the Barrel ready. By far this takes the most time on an M92 Build. * Don't think that because you got a Brand Spankin New Barrel it is going to Just Push In cause life just isn't that simple and you paid less for a Virgin Kit. Also some here know just because a barrel has a hole in it doesn't mean the outside diameter is concentric And by the same token just because the barrel and trunnion were in the same box Does Not Mean You Can Just Push Them Together with No Problems. Ok now you have to measure your trunnion and your barrel. This one came with the barrel about .005 over at .9055. Too much meat to push in a trunnion weighing in at an even .900. So the barrel had to loose .003 for a .0025 fit at a Dia. of .9025. You can't do this with a Dremel or in a Drill Press and your going to have to do it on a lathe and Between Centers. You are also going to have to make the Barrel Face Cuts With A Mill and relieve the bottom of the chamber to facilitate a positive feed angle. When you have this done you will have to square up the barrel face. While you have the barrel in the lathe again Between Centers (Note) Better To Use A Live Center Here) so you won't FU the muzzle crown. Measure and do the muzzle Dia. for the Ft. Sight Base. Also your going to want to do the Hand Guard Retainer Dia. * You want just enough fit here so the HG Cap slides relatively free with no binding. And don't forget the rear sight base and use .0025 here again by measuring both. The Gas Hole A Number 28 Drill Bit But Start The Hole With A Centering Drill fits perfectly into the bottom of the Ft. Sight Base from the bottom and this is what you want to use. You want to be On The Money Here Guys and finding the exact center is a must. I use my own method of marking the position of the hole by scribing a circular mark on the barrel not over the exact center of the hole but to let me know just how far to push the Ft. Sight base on. The shadows looking down the hole on the bottom of the FTB can be misleading and I like to give myself some wiggle room. Use the Centering Drill to Chamfer The Hole Just A Bit Also.This should keep you busy for a few days * Take Your Time Here* and if your wondering just where your Barrel Pin Hole goes check out the pics this is measured from the center of the Trunnion Rivet Hole and we'll get back to that in Part No. 2 __________________ John McCaw FFL/SOT2 JCD Tactical Law Enforcement Sales White Oak, PA 15131-2104 (412) 980-1233 Last edited by John@JCDLESales; 12-01-2008 at 06:43 PM.

09-29-2007, 07:43 PM	#10
John@JCDLESales Veteran Member AKaholic #: 1595 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: White Oak, PA Posts: 1,600	*Drilling The Barrel Pin Part 2 After you headspace the barrel you are ready to drill the Barrel Retaining Pin Hole. Make sure of your headspace and drill with a Dummy Rd. the exact length as a Live Rd. so nothing moves. Start With A Centering Drill Again. Switch out to a Cobalt (I) Bit and use plenty of oil. Now Ream with a 7mm again using plenty of oil. Keep the hole clean while drilling and again Drill Slow And Use Tons Of Oil** Now your are ready to try a new round to check for a nice Lock Up. There you Go Now Have A Beer. Some folks will tell you to drill after riveting but I have found it much easier to do before and just push out the barrel for riveting when you have all your pin holes done for all the other parts that go on the barrel. And you can see why $625.00 is a fair price to build a Virgin M92 Krink Set 2 Barrel Pin Drilling __________________ John McCaw FFL/SOT2 JCD Tactical Law Enforcement Sales White Oak, PA 15131-2104 (412) 980-1233 Last edited by John@JCDLESales; 09-30-2007 at 12:59 PM.

09-30-2007, 05:59 PM	#11
John@JCDLESales Veteran Member AKaholic #: 1595 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: White Oak, PA Posts: 1,600	Rear Trunnion Milling And Drilling Part 3 Now you have to get the Rear Trunnion ready to rivet. You were smart enough to get a Demilled Rear Receiver Stub. If not you will have to come up with one or use a NDS receiver to scribe rour Rear Trunnion so you can Mill And Drill. Again go slow and use alot of cutting oil when milling the trunnions as they can be very hard metal. Test fit and you are done with this part of the Virgin M92 Build. Next I show you a Quick And Dirty Way to do your Wood.* __________________ John McCaw FFL/SOT2 JCD Tactical Law Enforcement Sales White Oak, PA 15131-2104 (412) 980-1233

10-01-2007, 04:48 PM	#12
John@JCDLESales Veteran Member AKaholic #: 1595 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: White Oak, PA Posts: 1,600	Milling For The Hand Guard Retainer You will want to be On The Money Here and I guess you could do this with a Round File if you are careful. __________________ John McCaw FFL/SOT2 JCD Tactical Law Enforcement Sales White Oak, PA 15131-2104 (412) 980-1233

10-01-2007, 05:01 PM	#13
John@JCDLESales Veteran Member AKaholic #: 1595 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: White Oak, PA Posts: 1,600	Wood Prep And Finish Quick And Dirty Me and Wood know each other although we are not what you could call Close Friends I like to make things simple and have found that if you can sand off Gruber # 1's Fingerprints who packed your Kit. You only have now to contend with Gruber No. 2's Not Putting The Wood in a Plastic Bag so it would not get oil stains on it before you received it and it touched Oily Parts. So some sanding is in order followed by some Steel Wool. * Note I have found the perfect applicator for putting on stain see pic 2. Your wife or girlfriend will know of a Beauty Supply Store and you can find the Foam Wedgies there. I apply 2 coats of the Military Stain Shown * (Brownell's Has This Stain) in the Pic letting each dry for 18-24 Hrs. I hit the HG's after they are dry with Steel Wool again and then apply a heavy Coat of KiWi Neutral Shoe Polish and letting it dry for several hours. Buff and your are done with this step. __________________ John McCaw FFL/SOT2 JCD Tactical Law Enforcement Sales White Oak, PA 15131-2104 (412) 980-1233 Last edited by John@JCDLESales; 10-01-2007 at 05:27 PM.

10-01-2007, 05:32 PM	#14
allesennogwat Curio & Relic AKaholic #: 3738 Join Date: Apr 2005 Posts: 47,143	That Chestnut Ridge stain has made Chestnut Ridge famous. Located in PA. http://www.chestnutridge.com. __________________ Daraclor: A brand of anti-malaria pills which we had to drink every week while on the border. Legend had it that these would make you turn yellow and that you wouldn't be able to tan.

10-01-2007, 09:52 PM	#15
John@JCDLESales Veteran Member AKaholic #: 1595 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: White Oak, PA Posts: 1,600	Alles they are in Blairsville, PA about 45 Mins away. I've been using the stain for years and it couldn't be easier. __________________ John McCaw FFL/SOT2 JCD Tactical Law Enforcement Sales White Oak, PA 15131-2104 (412) 980-1233

10-02-2007, 06:36 PM	#16
John@JCDLESales Veteran Member AKaholic #: 1595 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: White Oak, PA Posts: 1,600	Finishing Up To Riveting You are almost home now and you just have to Drill And Ream your Rear Sight Base and your Front Sight Base/Flash Hider Mount. Measure and make sure of the positions of the rear sight base and that your Front Sight Base is going to accommodate your Gas Tube/Upper Handgard. After you drill and ream your Front Sight Base push in one of your pins to keep everything square for hole number 2. Note I use a 5mm pin for the top cover pivot as the supplied small pin is a very hard part to come by and a 5mm Trigger Or Hammer Pin are a dime a dozen just drill with a Centering Drill to bevel the edges so they can be flared to secure the top cover. All the rest is just like building any other AK* Here Are Some Tips Use Quality Cobalt Drill Bits Drill Slow With Plenty Of Oil Ream All Your Holes Again Plenty Of Oil Make Sure Your Handguard Retainer Is On And Facing The Right Way Before Pushing On Your Muzzle Brake Double Check Your Measurements Before Drilling Hope This Helped Those With M92 Virgin Kits Wanting To Do Their Build.* __________________ John McCaw FFL/SOT2 JCD Tactical Law Enforcement Sales White Oak, PA 15131-2104 (412) 980-1233 Last edited by John@JCDLESales; 10-02-2007 at 10:30 PM.

10-05-2007, 08:47 PM	#17
VALMET_M76 Curio & Relic AKaholic #: 90 Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Houston TX Posts: 7,934	Holy crap! JOHN DESRVES HIS OWN FORUM!!! Lets lose one of the DEAD vendor forums and make room for these most excellent posts. Wait, John isn't alone. Gunplumber has contributed too. There needs to be a seperate HOW IT'S DONE...STICKY ONLY...forum that can preserve all of this valuable information instead of letting it vanish in this forum.

10-05-2007, 10:15 PM	#18
lextech Curio & Relic Contributor AKaholic #: 6259 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: DFW Posts: 5,882	+1 on a "tutorials from professionals" forum. John, so what your saying is I need more than a dremil to build up a virgin?

10-05-2007, 10:25 PM	#19
lsmurphy Curio & Relic AKaholic #: 6789 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Lost Posts: 26,369	John you are the MAN, no doubt. And the correct tools doesn't hurt either does it? Scott __________________ Everywhere I look...........

10-05-2007, 11:23 PM	#20
John@JCDLESales Veteran Member AKaholic #: 1595 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: White Oak, PA Posts: 1,600	Scott I wish you would have done the wood segment. As I said Wood and I are just Passing Friends and a Woody Expert could have done a Much Better Job than I. Lex the right tool absolutely helps with a Virgin __________________ John McCaw FFL/SOT2 JCD Tactical Law Enforcement Sales White Oak, PA 15131-2104 (412) 980-1233

10-06-2007, 12:24 AM	#21
lextech Curio & Relic Contributor AKaholic #: 6259 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: DFW Posts: 5,882	Yea I never had the right tool to do a virgin right. I mean a lathe of course! Gimme 2 years and ill get a lathe and mill, so long as hitlery dont ban gun shaped metal.

10-09-2007, 12:21 AM	#23
John@JCDLESales Veteran Member AKaholic #: 1595 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: White Oak, PA Posts: 1,600	Not to be a Smart Ass but did you ever think of measuring the Rollover Pin yourself like I had to do. This Tutorial Post was for those who want to think and build themselves and not to be confused with a Hand Out. I'm not getting on Your Shit Man but I darn near told you everything you need to know to DIY __________________ John McCaw FFL/SOT2 JCD Tactical Law Enforcement Sales White Oak, PA 15131-2104 (412) 980-1233

10-09-2007, 02:28 PM	#24
carrolte Member AKaholic #: 8213 Join Date: May 2007 Posts: 263	It took you longer to post your rant than it would have to just give the answer. Rest assured I will no longer post questions in any of YOUR threads. If you see any future posts by me (no matter how stupid you think they are) just ignore them cause they will not be directed at you. As a matter of fact just add me to your ignore list. Thanks, tc

10-09-2007, 04:41 PM	#25
gunplumber Arrogant Bastard AKaholic #: 328 Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Surprise, AZ Posts: 5,623	great tutorial. One thing that might help those who don't have a demilled receiver section to use for machining the stock axle hole, is to get a 3 degree angle block. Then the receiver can be clamped using a 1-2-3 block and the 3 degree between the jaws of the mill vise and you can machine the hole after the trunion is installed. I used one size lower carbide inch pattern bit, which left just kissing it with the dremel sanding drum to bring it to the metric diameter. __________________ T. Mark Graham, Master Gunsmith Arizona Response Systems, LLC Last edited by gunplumber; 10-09-2007 at 10:34 PM.

10-09-2007, 05:12 PM	#26
John@JCDLESales Veteran Member AKaholic #: 1595 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: White Oak, PA Posts: 1,600	No Rant Son just trying to get you to use that thing that sits upon your shoulders. How hard is it to measure???? Or for that matter actually go that extra mile and put a rule over the HG Retention Groove of any other AK. But for those who seem to be challenged when it comes to motivation and initiative. 15/64 Which is .020 shy of 6mm. __________________ John McCaw FFL/SOT2 JCD Tactical Law Enforcement Sales White Oak, PA 15131-2104 (412) 980-1233

10-09-2007, 09:28 PM	#27
John@JCDLESales Veteran Member AKaholic #: 1595 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: White Oak, PA Posts: 1,600	Thanks Mark, know there are alot here who have the machines and know how with a Virgin Kit in hand but needed to know where to start. And the little Tips that make it a bit easier. __________________ John McCaw FFL/SOT2 JCD Tactical Law Enforcement Sales White Oak, PA 15131-2104 (412) 980-1233

10-24-2007, 05:02 PM	#28
John@JCDLESales Veteran Member AKaholic #: 1595 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: White Oak, PA Posts: 1,600	More Pics of finished receiver with selector lead in and position detents. __________________ John McCaw FFL/SOT2 JCD Tactical Law Enforcement Sales White Oak, PA 15131-2104 (412) 980-1233

10-24-2007, 10:19 PM	#29
ETG Veteran Member AKaholic #: 5494 Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 1,217	Most people doing the virgin build would probably already know this, but, I would NOT use the rails that come in the virgin kits - buy a set of AK builders. The rails that came in my kit were sloted - no need to ask for this kind of trouble.

12-11-2007, 06:46 PM	#30
John@JCDLESales Veteran Member AKaholic #: 1595 Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: White Oak, PA Posts: 1,600	BTT For Freinds Ref. __________________ John McCaw FFL/SOT2 JCD Tactical Law Enforcement Sales White Oak, PA 15131-2104 (412) 980-1233

12-11-2007, 10:46 PM	#31
ronin Trying to Get a Grip Silver Contributor AKaholic #: 6354 Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: USA Posts: 9,910	This is a great post. I wonder how the heck I missed it the first time around.

03-24-2008, 02:53 PM	#32
Ker-Pow Member AKaholic #: 6766 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Woodbridge, Virginia Posts: 162	Cool. This should be a sticky.

11-03-2008, 12:05 AM	#33
cymax Member AKaholic #: 16056 Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: usa,vermont,small town Posts: 80	hello i just got my m92 in i would appreciate some measurement. i would like to know the the distance between the gas hole and the the front of the barrel. or from the trunnion after head space to the gas hole. if the measurement is taken from the trunnion please take it from were the bolt handle contacts the trunnion. thanks in advance.

11-03-2008, 01:30 AM	#34
Adventurer_96 Member AKaholic #: 765 Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Utah Posts: 111	PM me in a week if you haven't heard from me, cymax. My M92 is in the back of my truck and I'm driving back home after being away for a few months, and I can't measure it right now. __________________ Check Six. Be Seeing You!

11-03-2008, 02:51 PM	#35
cymax Member AKaholic #: 16056 Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: usa,vermont,small town Posts: 80	thank you very much adventurer if there are any other measurements that i need i will ask at the same time for the time being all i can say is that like the smell of cosmoline on those new parts :P. have a safe trip home

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