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Old 09-21-2007, 04:49 PM   #1
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Default Tantal Build Tutorial Part 1

The Polish Tantal has to be one of the easiest builds there is. The barrel is best Pushed Out and not

All Thread Removed form my experience. I have to break this Tutorial into parts as there are just too

many Pics.

Although the Tantal can be assembled on any AK Receiver do yourself a favor and get a Dedicated

NoDakSpud Tantal receiver.

Early And Late HG Take Down Nut And Lever.




Acetone Soak your parts Kit for 24 hours. Look for Cosmoline Hiding in the Trunnion and under the

Rear Sight base. Also in the Ft. Sight . And everywhere else you can think of.




Demill The Trunnion Rivets and punch for a true centering of your drill. I use a Centering Drill Bit and the drill never walks.

Make sure you have the rivets flat before punching and switching to the longer drill bit. Drill Slow with alot of oil.



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Old 09-21-2007, 04:53 PM   #2
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Default Part #2

Demilling The Fire Control Group For Use With A NoDakSpud Dedicated Tantal Receiver. Scribe a line level with the top box fold over and seperate with a small cut off wheel and take off the sharp edges.

*Note the 8th Pic down shows the demilling of the Hammer Ratchet. The metal here is very thin so watch how much pressure you apply while holding it in your vise. Also you just have to just lightly touch with a file or Dremel to take off the Rivet Flange before Tapping It Out with a small punch.










*Note It Is The Pin Half Way Down The Selector Shaft You Want To Remove. NOT The One Closest To The Switch Itself.


I can REMANUFACTURER Your Hammer,Trigger,Disconnector,Gas Piston and Stamp JCD USA for

$40.00 Plus Shipping Being A Manufacturer Of Firearms Other Than Destructive Devices. A Non FFL 07 Can Not Do This.
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Old 09-21-2007, 04:54 PM   #3
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Default Part #3

Clean out the Drilled out holes of both trunnions with an Acetone Soaked Q-Tip. Also Clean your Long Rear Rivets with Acetone also before inserting them for your Squish.


* Note Rivet Bucking Plate Made Just For The Larger Tantal Rear Rivets I Use.







Do The Folder Assembly The Goes Into The Receiver In Gray Park. As well as the HG Spring



Do The Rear Sight In Gray Also White Lettering is Optional



Make Sure Everything is Really Clean Before Riveting *Then Clean It Again


Let The Parkerizing MATURE for 72 Hours before trying to handle or Assemble and keep WET with WD-40 for that 72 Hr. Period. That is you will have to Hit it again every 18 Hrs. with WD-40 or so when it looks like it is drying out or should I say drying off.


Matching Up Part Numbers Is A Must.


Use Never Seize When Pushing The Barrel Back In. Will Save you lots of Headaches.


Pay Attention To Safety Fit.


Bingo Go Test Fire And Sight In.
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Old 09-21-2007, 06:42 PM   #4
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I couldn't tell from the pictures. Did you parkerize all the parts then rivet or did you rivet then parkerize?
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Old 09-21-2007, 06:44 PM   #5
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oh, by the way, looks great.
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Old 09-21-2007, 06:57 PM   #6
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Acetone Soak,Blast,Soak Again,Rivet,Blast Any Assembly/Machining Marks,Soak Again Then Park.
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Old 09-21-2007, 07:00 PM   #7
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Sweet
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Old 09-21-2007, 07:19 PM   #8
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super,hope mine comes out that sweet john...
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Old 09-21-2007, 10:03 PM   #9
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Ding the Tantal is a Really Easy Build just take your time.


Last Pic Is Of A Registered Post Dealer Sample Select Fire.
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Old 09-21-2007, 10:18 PM   #10
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All right, the tutorial.

Great info there John. I like it a lot.

What size grit and what media are you blasting with. Silica?
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Old 09-21-2007, 10:20 PM   #11
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yeah john,I oughta wait a couple days for the excitement to die down but seems good so far.not much work as copes or whom ever made it easy.No receiver leftovers on it,real clean.I'm using an end mill in the drill press to chop the rivet stubs down,dimpleing them and pounding them out.so far so good.next is the long trunion rivets.dimple them and hope bits stay true..just somethin to do tomorrow..
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Old 09-21-2007, 10:22 PM   #12
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well,it sure ain't like the galil builds or the krinks,that's for sure..
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Old 09-21-2007, 10:34 PM   #13
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hey val,how ya been

john,are ya heatin up the trunion some to slip the barrel in.I'm pullin the barrel tomorrow so I can get the parts ready to do the gun-kote thing when it gets here.you make it look so simple...
edit..I see an underfolder sittin on that table,is that a add for a tantal kit?????(holding my breath) lol
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Old 09-21-2007, 10:54 PM   #14
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John,

Thanks for the great info!
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Old 09-22-2007, 06:16 AM   #15
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Thanks for sharing the info, I want to build one when I get back from AFG!!
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Old 09-22-2007, 08:18 AM   #16
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Nice job of documenting a fine build!
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Old 09-22-2007, 10:17 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ding
hey val,how ya been

john,are ya heatin up the trunion some to slip the barrel in.I'm pullin the barrel tomorrow so I can get the parts ready to do the gun-kote thing when it gets here.you make it look so simple...
edit..I see an underfolder sittin on that table,is that a add for a tantal kit?????(holding my breath) lol

Ding Underfolder is for another Polish AKMS No I don't use any heat and I have found that supporting the barrel and Pushing the Receiver the best way to to get the barrel back in. You have alot more control lining up the Barrel Retaining Hole With The U-Groove in the barrel itself. Go really slow here as it is fairly easy to overshoot the U-Groove. The Never Seize is your BEST Friend Here and apply very little to both the inside of the Ft. Trunnion and the Barrel before inserting.

*Make sure you are Square and verify several times before the Press In. You can do this by holding the the Receiver/Ft. Trunnion with the barrel just started with a light tap into the trunnion and compare the Hole With The U-Groove. Also compare the side clearance of the Rear Sight Base with the Ears on your Trunnion.

Polish your Barrel Pin in a small drill press with 600-800 Grit and Q-Tip Coat with Never Seize as well as the Pin Holes. *GO Light on the Never Seize as it is a Real Bear to get off of your finished Receiver.

Push Slow and use a bright Flashlight to confirm you are lined up perfectly. When Pushing in the Barrel Pin make sure the Receiver Will Not Roll.
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Old 09-22-2007, 10:30 AM   #18
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Default BUY HOCKEY PUCKS

For you guys that do several builds or work on other Guneapons here's a Good Tip.

But A Ton Of Hockey Pucks To Use As Supports That Don't Mar

Most big Sporting Chain Stores sell them for .99 Ea. If you have Labs buy twice as many cause when one falls to the floor it is theirs.
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Old 09-22-2007, 02:31 PM   #19
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I know they are john,but I'm the odd ball of the outfit.I have UFD,kinda like OCD,only worse when it comes to UF's.if I could I would have one on all them..your tutorial is awsome.love the pix..
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Old 09-22-2007, 02:45 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VALMET_M76
All right, the tutorial.

Great info there John. I like it a lot.

What size grit and what media are you blasting with. Silica?
Val I use 36 Grit Aluminum Oxide for the Blast Cabinet. You can alter the finish by using Blast Gun distance to object being blasted along with regulating air pressure to the gun.

Initial Blast is close and fast to remove old finish. And the 36 Grit is the only way to go on the Polish Steel Mags due to the thick paint used at the factory.
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Old 09-23-2007, 08:19 PM   #21
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I cannot get the barrel pin out,am goin from left to right.am soaking in wd-40 for now.almost ready for tha parts blast,polished carrier,cleaning rod etc.got a dime holding up a dollar here
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Old 09-23-2007, 09:36 PM   #22
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Ding you might have to start it out with a Nipple Pusher Pin. Just get a pusher pin slightly under 7mm and turn a nipple to fit into a hole your probably going to have to drill into the Stuck Pin say3/16".

Best way to start the hole in the pin is with a Centering Drill Stub so your second drill bit won't walk.




Centering Drill


Another thing Ding if you have to put Big Ass Tonnage on the Pin Pusher make sure it won't Roll. I made a Tantal Jig just for this reason and back it up at the Rear Sight Tower with a step block.

*You should have the Leaf Sight removed here I don't but the Pic is just to show you where to back it up.


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Old 09-24-2007, 12:17 AM   #23
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I got it flush with the trunion,then went with about a 6mm/3/8'?(been too long to remember) hardened rod to push it but it won't budge.I sure don't want to drill it out.the rod is only 6" long so no bend and it's in a collet so it is tight.I'll get it out,just stuck it in freezer for overnight and will hit the trunion,not pin with some heat real quick to see if that will do it..everything is out but the four rivets and the barel pin,so close..thanx for the info and pics.love the jig..had to order a new drill press,got a milling vise this time too so I can do more stuff...like jigs!!!! and a 249 piecerotory bit set and a new pin punch set from HF..thanx john for the help
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Old 09-24-2007, 02:17 PM   #24
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finally got the pin out..beer 30 now!!!with a tequilla chaser.
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Old 09-24-2007, 07:28 PM   #25
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Get Another Case To Push It Back In And a Bottle of Patrone and a Big Lime
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Old 09-24-2007, 08:21 PM   #26
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1800 and cazedores work ok for me,no lime,just straight...bead blast time,gun-kote ordered t-day.Mas tequilla por favor,otra vess y cervesa mui freo rapido padron.. chinga
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Old 09-26-2007, 03:48 PM   #27
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John,looks like I will be sending the FCG to ya sometime next week,also will,or can ya stamp the muzzle brake too.Let me know what all I have to send,like trigger,hammer,select components etc.EDIT( reread on what to send)waiting for press to get here so I figured I would cold blue my parts.these are done so far..cleaned black paint off mag, polished and cold blued carrier,MB,cleaning rod etc.waiting on gun-kote ta do barrel and other parts.am thankful for the tutorial,that select set is a mind numbing experiance..




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Old 09-26-2007, 09:09 PM   #28
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Ding Sure thing for the MB.

Had a slight mishap here this afternoon and set a Chemical Grade Pair of Rubber Gloves on fire with my metal cutoff saw. Like a true idiot grabbed the gloves which then flung flaming rubber onto my Rt. Hand. Nice burns and Joni is pissed I won't go to Emg. Rm. Anywho I'll get them back to you in about a week.

Also do you want them Blasted? No Charge for this.

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Old 09-27-2007, 12:49 AM   #29
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holy sheep dip john,ouch.Keep ice pack on it,on and off,will take heat and burn outa it and keep it clean..
hope ya doin better soon..
about the FCG and MB,the MB was blued so no need ta blast it unless ya want to,as for the FCG,you make the call.Just PM me for the total cost for your services and preferred payment method and return postage.Much appreciated for your work.and again ouch..thanx D
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Old 09-27-2007, 07:33 PM   #30
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how ya doin t-day john.must hurt like heck t-day..polished out all the parts t-day,looks chromed now..



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Old 09-27-2007, 08:44 PM   #31
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Nice Job Buddy. No actually feels alot better. Took 16 Ibuprofrens yesterday and today only 6. Will be fine in a few. As soon as I get your parts I'll do them and get them straight back to you.
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Old 10-01-2007, 08:13 PM   #32
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hows that hand john..takin care of it?healin up ok I hope..

got some of my parts gun-koted today,waiting for receiver and rivets to get here.Demilled selector,ready to ship FCG to ya.when parts get here I can finally put it together...I fired the cameraman for having blurry eye syndrome..


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Old 10-01-2007, 08:41 PM   #33
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Hand is doing fine and just trying to keep it clean where there is no skin. I'll get the parts back to you ASAP No Problem. Haven't been to the blast cabinet since I flamed on but have been doing a Yugo M92 build Tutorial until I scab over.
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Old 10-02-2007, 08:21 AM   #34
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John-great write up! i liked ur sequence with demill..... and the acetone clean up sounds like a good game plan. also -phosphating is something i have to try! i take it that it might even hide slight imperfections a bit more? i would also think it might make for a more durable finish. i used a good moly resin paint but i think if i used the undercoating it would be a bit more durable i would hope? well i got a romie-g i want to do up here soon and i'll have to try out some of this stuff! nice rivet work! t.c. Jim
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Old 10-02-2007, 05:03 PM   #35
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John, I like the grey park, just wondering what it cost for 1 gun? Don't think it would be very cost effective to try myself. Is it expensive?
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