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#1 |
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Member
AKaholic #: 7791 Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 299
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Well, I went and screwed up: got a punch broken off in my rear trunnion for a Romy build, and am looking around for a replacement. I'd rather not mess with it anymore. If anyone has one laying around, let me know. Also, a point in the right direction for demilled trunnions for sale would be appreciated. I've already got one on order from Centerfire, but I don't expect it to be too pretty based off of its pic.
Last edited by Boognish; 03-28-2007 at 01:24 AM. |
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#2 |
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Member
AKaholic #: 4557 Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: TEXAS...by God!
Posts: 431
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best to do on rear trunnion rivit removal: using a drill press and small pilot bit....drill about 1/2 way tru one side, then do same on other side, follow up with a drill bit just smaller than the rivit size. GO SLOW, pull out often to keep metal from locking up and breaking the drill bit. HINT: flatten the rivits first then center punch to start drill as close to center as possible.
remember: GO SLOW....heck of a lot easier than ordering a new one, especially when you want your kit to be assembled and ready to fire. best wishes...tanlover442 NRA Lifemember |
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#3 |
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Member
AKaholic #: 7791 Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 299
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As you can tell, this is my first build.
I'm doing two at a time, and started by grinding the rivet heads in both trunnions flat with a flexi-cuttoff wheel. After that, I center punched them on one side and put them in a vise on my drill press. I went slow at about 3100 rpm with carbide bits. (The rear-most rivets were the easiest on both trunnions btw.)I started small with a 3/32" until I reached a bit more than halfway through the rivet. After that, I would step up bit size and use plenty of 3-in-1 oil. When I got to 5/32", I would use my punch to drive them out. The kicker was that I broke a small piece of bit off in one of them about a 1/4 or the way through, so I started over on the other side. Got about halfway through that side and proceeded to punch out the infused rivet/broken bit mass in the middle. The punch broke flush with the trunnion, and the rivet portion I pushed out has a carbide bit stuck right in the middle of it. So the rivet end with the stuck bit is flush on the other side, and since the broken bit is in the center, I can't drill that end. Which end should I attack? The rivet/broken bit end, or the punch end. The punch was a 5/32" I beleive, so it's pretty snug. |
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#4 |
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Curio & Relic
AKaholic #: 4307 Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Mostly Tucson, AZ
Posts: 2,761
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Be aware that if ya get the FPK rear trunnion (they will only have one stock screw hole in the tang) these are made for a thicker receiver and will be too narrow on a 1 mm receiver. they can be used but they will suck the rear of the receiver in which will require trimming the bolt rails etc... Ya might want to verify that the trunnion ya'v ordered is an actual AKM trunnion and not one of the FPK trunnions that cheaper than dirt and Centerfire sells etc...
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#5 |
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Psalms 149
AKaholic #: 4163 Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Standing in the gate.
Posts: 6,194
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I have some rear romie trunions.
Do you need the pins removed? What do you have to trade?
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Geist762 ![]() Jer 48:10 Cursed be he that doeth the work of the LORD deceitfully, and cursed be he that keepeth back his sword from blood. |
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#6 |
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Member
AKaholic #: 7791 Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: TX
Posts: 299
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I just ordered a couple from c133Jim...ended up buying a demilled kit too. Thanks everyone.
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#7 |
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Veteran Member
AKaholic #: 6845 Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: MICHIGAN
Posts: 1,317
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Is he just someone selling stuff, or what? I've heard a couple people say they ordered stuff from that name. Jeff
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Work harder! Millions on welfare depend on you! |
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