Powdercoating an AK?

gtodvr · 02-07-2007, 09:23 PM

I have powdercoated many things but never a gun. Has anybody got any advice or an opinion on powdercoating an AK or a Mauser? Any help appreciated.

FAL GRUNT · 02-07-2007, 10:04 PM

maybe an AK, but I definetly wouldn't go with a mauser.

Just my opinion.

I would assume it would hold up pretty well.

-myers

Mac's · 02-07-2007, 11:24 PM

We regularly use powder coat as part of our Tuff-Gun 2 finish and it does work very well....with certain limitations. It's too thick for use on internal close tolerance parts and it does not do well with continuous high heat. For those reasons, we do not use it on AK type receivers or barrels but it's great for smaller parts like safety levers, top covers, etc.
The area that is to NOT be powder coated must be masked off and there's just too many openings in an AK type receiver to insure that they are all blocked off. When I am testing a new finish or technique, I always use it on my own stuff first. I applied powder coat as part of our TG-2 finish on one of my AK barrels. Then I abused the finish by firing a couple of hundred rounds thru it fast. The finish got too hot between the receiver and the gas block and discolored badly. So, now I only use our TG-1 finish for military type semi auto barrels and receivers.
I do use the powder coat as part of our TG-2 finish on the barrels of bolt action rifles, bolt handles, AK type safeties, mag bodies, etc. and it works great for that.
Here's some hard learned advice about powder coating: Make sure you get it right the first time because that stuff is extremely difficult to get off of metal even with a sand blaster!! Hope this helps, Mac.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All
http://www.shootiniron.com

gtodvr · 02-08-2007, 08:15 AM

Thanks for the info. I am going to try to powdercoat a rusty Romy. I have glass-beaded the entire gun. I am going to tape off the internal receiver and plug all holes including barrel and give it a shot and see what happens.
Question on the Mauser. I am going to powdercoat an old Yugo Mauser. Seems simple, glass-bead the barrel and receiver and other part. When you do, what do you do with the internal receiver area. I am going to keep the bolt assembly polished. If I shoot the whole receiver, will the internal receiver powdercoated affect bolt action? Any help or opinions needed, thanks.

Mac's · 02-08-2007, 09:48 AM

If you do powder coat your AK, you may find that the part of the barrel between the receiver and the gas block will discolor badly. It did on my test rifle because it just gets too hot.
Regarding your Mauser: Don't let the powder get inside the receiver. It's too thick and will interfere with or jam the bolt in the channels. Powder coat is awful on parts that move against each other and will do a good job of jamming them up. I mask off the receiver at the barrel edge and only do the barrels on bolt type rifles. Then I use our TG-1 finish inside and out on the receivers.
You can powder coat the handle part of the bolt and other parts that do not move against each other but keep it away from interacting parts.
You will need special high temp masking tape and plugs since you wont be able to remove it prior to curing without damaging the powder coat. It's just dust until it's cured and even a fly going close by can affect it. Mac.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All
http://www.shootiniron.com

FAL GRUNT · 02-08-2007, 01:27 PM

You guys' comments on the gun getting too hot surprises me. I know that I looked at powder coated headers for my F-350, and I know that sucker get REAL hot... why is there a difference? Merely asthetics?

-myers

Mac's · 02-08-2007, 10:44 PM

The powders used for exhaust systems are a different type than the "normal" powders. It has a different texture which is not really bad, has a very limited color selection and can not be applied over anything but absolutely bare metal. For durabilty, all of our finishes start with Parkerizing to get the metal surface ready to absorb the resin or powder as the case may be. Extreme heat powders will not bond over Parkerizing. The color selection is not nearly as great as for regular powders. We have applied greens, reds, yellows, etc. and even pink. (She was a competition trap/skeet shooter) Extreme heat powders are designed for heat resistance and while tough, are not as tough as the regular powder. For us, the extreme heat powder is just not worth the trouble. If I need heat resistance, I use our TG-1 finish. I even use that for my RC race boat engine and exhaust and that gets seriously hot! Mac.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
Tuff-Gun finishes. The Name Says It All
http://www.shootiniron.com

02-07-2007, 09:23 PM	#1
gtodvr Member AKaholic #: 6576 Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Odessa, Texas Posts: 23	Powdercoating an AK? I have powdercoated many things but never a gun. Has anybody got any advice or an opinion on powdercoating an AK or a Mauser? Any help appreciated.

02-08-2007, 08:15 AM	#4
gtodvr Member AKaholic #: 6576 Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Odessa, Texas Posts: 23	Mauser Thanks for the info. I am going to try to powdercoat a rusty Romy. I have glass-beaded the entire gun. I am going to tape off the internal receiver and plug all holes including barrel and give it a shot and see what happens. Question on the Mauser. I am going to powdercoat an old Yugo Mauser. Seems simple, glass-bead the barrel and receiver and other part. When you do, what do you do with the internal receiver area. I am going to keep the bolt assembly polished. If I shoot the whole receiver, will the internal receiver powdercoated affect bolt action? Any help or opinions needed, thanks.

02-07-2007, 10:04 PM	#2
FAL GRUNT Curio & Relic AKaholic #: 2164 Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 3,894	maybe an AK, but I definetly wouldn't go with a mauser. Just my opinion. I would assume it would hold up pretty well. -myers

02-07-2007, 11:24 PM	#3
Mac's Member AKaholic #: 4749 Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 65	We regularly use powder coat as part of our Tuff-Gun 2 finish and it does work very well....with certain limitations. It's too thick for use on internal close tolerance parts and it does not do well with continuous high heat. For those reasons, we do not use it on AK type receivers or barrels but it's great for smaller parts like safety levers, top covers, etc. The area that is to NOT be powder coated must be masked off and there's just too many openings in an AK type receiver to insure that they are all blocked off. When I am testing a new finish or technique, I always use it on my own stuff first. I applied powder coat as part of our TG-2 finish on one of my AK barrels. Then I abused the finish by firing a couple of hundred rounds thru it fast. The finish got too hot between the receiver and the gas block and discolored badly. So, now I only use our TG-1 finish for military type semi auto barrels and receivers. I do use the powder coat as part of our TG-2 finish on the barrels of bolt action rifles, bolt handles, AK type safeties, mag bodies, etc. and it works great for that. Here's some hard learned advice about powder coating: Make sure you get it right the first time because that stuff is extremely difficult to get off of metal even with a sand blaster!! Hope this helps, Mac. Mac's Shootin' Irons Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All http://www.shootiniron.com

02-08-2007, 09:48 AM	#5
Mac's Member AKaholic #: 4749 Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 65	If you do powder coat your AK, you may find that the part of the barrel between the receiver and the gas block will discolor badly. It did on my test rifle because it just gets too hot. Regarding your Mauser: Don't let the powder get inside the receiver. It's too thick and will interfere with or jam the bolt in the channels. Powder coat is awful on parts that move against each other and will do a good job of jamming them up. I mask off the receiver at the barrel edge and only do the barrels on bolt type rifles. Then I use our TG-1 finish inside and out on the receivers. You can powder coat the handle part of the bolt and other parts that do not move against each other but keep it away from interacting parts. You will need special high temp masking tape and plugs since you wont be able to remove it prior to curing without damaging the powder coat. It's just dust until it's cured and even a fly going close by can affect it. Mac. Mac's Shootin' Irons Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All http://www.shootiniron.com

02-08-2007, 01:27 PM	#6
FAL GRUNT Curio & Relic AKaholic #: 2164 Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 3,894	You guys' comments on the gun getting too hot surprises me. I know that I looked at powder coated headers for my F-350, and I know that sucker get REAL hot... why is there a difference? Merely asthetics? -myers

02-08-2007, 10:44 PM	#7
Mac's Member AKaholic #: 4749 Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 65	The powders used for exhaust systems are a different type than the "normal" powders. It has a different texture which is not really bad, has a very limited color selection and can not be applied over anything but absolutely bare metal. For durabilty, all of our finishes start with Parkerizing to get the metal surface ready to absorb the resin or powder as the case may be. Extreme heat powders will not bond over Parkerizing. The color selection is not nearly as great as for regular powders. We have applied greens, reds, yellows, etc. and even pink. (She was a competition trap/skeet shooter) Extreme heat powders are designed for heat resistance and while tough, are not as tough as the regular powder. For us, the extreme heat powder is just not worth the trouble. If I need heat resistance, I use our TG-1 finish. I even use that for my RC race boat engine and exhaust and that gets seriously hot! Mac. Mac's Shootin' Irons Tuff-Gun finishes. The Name Says It All http://www.shootiniron.com

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)