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Old 09-17-2013, 03:40 PM   #1
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Default FINISHED -Yugo M77 Rework -

UPDATES BELOW>
Not really a build but., I purchased a Yugo M77 recently.

These are quite affordable>>

http://www.cheaperthandirt.com/produ...medium=organic

It is an export model modified for USA import.., Yugo DMR chambered in .308.
http://www.zastava-arms.rs/en/milita...t-rifle-m77-b1

Comes with two 10 round mags, polymer thumbhole stock and slant cut receiver. The muzzle nut is tack welded in place but the barrel is threaded 14mmx1 underneath.

I removed the spot weld at the muzzle nut and removed the FSB front pin to add the plunger and spring.

I used an old receiver stub piece to make a cover plate for the slant cut rear. This will get welded into place later.

USA M70 furniture I had from a previous buy.

Adding a Yugo M76 scope to the rail on the rifle. (SEE THE M77 Optics post for updates)

This uses a standard length 1.5mm Yugo M70 type receiver but with the bullet guide abbreviated and the barrel not inserted as deep in the trunion to accommodate the longer .308 cartridge. The bolt is pretty standard to M70 but beefier locking lugs.
Gas system is adjustable valve type and same tube & piston as the M76.

The shorter receiver was a little surprise., unlike the M76 which has the longer milled receiver .

I shot it only about 30 rounds for function, general zero and straight sights etc. All good.

I was contemplating building a M76 kit I have in .308 but tis was much easier and for $802 shipped I just threw down the money. I have a small supply of maybe 400 rounds of .308 but this will not be a cheap shooter.. But I wanted one for some time.

I believe that M14 mags can be modified to fit the rifle for 20 round capacity. (SEE # 29 UPDATE BELOW)

Front end with nut removed, weld cleaned up and plunger added>


Pic of slant cut receiver and receiver stub piece before final fit>


Receiver piece in place and next step is welding>



Mocked up with furniture and scope etc>



I pretty much finished the rework. I cleaned up the welded filler plate and added the furniture, muzzle device and cleaning rod. I fitted three 20 round M14 mags. They work very nicely and are BHO as well.
I have to fit a sling swivel to the buttstock because the optics rail is rear set on the M77 and not receiver mounted like a M70 etc. Maybe just a hair more weld smoothing on the selector side. This is a really nice, handy full power cartridge shooter. Optic to be determined as I work out the mount etc,






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Old 09-17-2013, 03:44 PM   #2
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looks great, it's a CHETNIK Bosnian sniper alley killer!
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Old 09-17-2013, 03:54 PM   #3
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looks great, it's a CHETNIK Bosnian sniper alley killer!
Nah., that is this one., an 8mm street cleaner., the AKM76.>




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Old 09-17-2013, 04:38 PM   #4
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Awesome. Give us updates as you go. What muzzle device are you going to use?

I am installing my IWD handguards on mine tonight. They came in last Friday and I put 3 coats of BLO on them.

I need to find an old receiver stub piece to make a cover plate for the slant cut rear for mine. If anyone has one, please send me a PM.
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Old 09-17-2013, 04:55 PM   #5
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Awesome. Give us updates as you go. What muzzle device are you going to use?

I am installing my IWD handguards on mine tonight. They came in last Friday and I put 3 coats of BLO on them.

I need to find an old receiver stub piece to make a cover plate for the slant cut rear for mine. If anyone has one, please send me a PM.
In the pic., though hard to see on the shadow I used a CNC Warrior copy of the Romanian AIM muzzle device. It looks close to the M77.
http://www.cncwarrior.com/ProductDet...ductCode=22641
I think the muzzle device is like the M90/95 type isued on those rifles but in 30 caliber vs 5.56. I have one of those I may use.

I do not have another stub off hand but I did not look very hard until I found that one. If I stumble over one in the pile I'll give you a shout.
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Old 09-17-2013, 04:59 PM   #6
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Nah., that is this one., an 8mm street cleaner., the AKM76.>

Dam akblue. I never get tired of seeing this rifle!
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Old 09-17-2013, 05:03 PM   #7
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Interesting how far back the scope rail is on these, is it just spot welded on?
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Old 09-17-2013, 05:27 PM   #8
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Interesting how far back the scope rail is on these, is it just spot welded on?
Yes., the rail is rear set a good bit. I'm not sure if I'll stick with the M76 mount or use another type or add a picatinny to the m76 mount and forward set the M76 scope. Dunno., on eye relief yet., until I finish the mods and get some range time with the optic.

It is riveted to the receiver with three rivets. It could be moved forward I believe, though I have not checked for obstructions or anything at this point.
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Old 09-17-2013, 06:44 PM   #9
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Be sure to catalog the work in this thread, if you would. I am interested to see the final outcome, looks great so far.
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Old 11-17-2013, 02:59 PM   #10
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Not really a build but., I purchased a Yugo M77 from Buds Gun Shop in Kentucky.
It is an export model modified for USA import.., Yugo DMR chambered in .308.
http://www.zastava-arms.rs/en/milita...t-rifle-m77-b1

I removed the spot weld at the muzzle nut and removed the FSB front pin to add the plunger and spring.


AKBLUE, I just got the same rifle and cannot locate spot weld for the life of me. I am just trying to install a muzzle break, could you please describe where the spot weld is located?
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Old 11-17-2013, 03:08 PM   #11
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It is a "tack" weld located between the rear of the muzzle nut and the FSB.
Have you tried to unscrew the nut? Maybe it is not welded on yours. It is reverse threads.
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Old 11-17-2013, 03:37 PM   #12
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Nah., that is this one., an 8mm street cleaner., the AKM76.>

Was it difficult finding a kit and receiver for this build? That looks amazing. I'd love to see a video of that firing.

You have your AK museum open yet?
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So, can I assume that WTF is not one of the Marketplace headings like WTS, WTB, or WTT?
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Old 11-17-2013, 03:47 PM   #13
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Was it difficult finding a kit and receiver for this build? That looks amazing. I'd love to see a video of that firing.

You have your AK museum open yet?
The receiver is an Ohio Rapid Fire (ORF). I purchased a few kits, receivers and customer returns when ORF was going out of business in 2009/2010. Good prices back then.
This one has a US barrel vs original Yugo so I decided to cut it to 18 inches and build the AKM76.
Some lathe work and figuring the gas port size., but a straight forward build.

I added new brake recently. A Tabuk type.
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Old 11-17-2013, 04:02 PM   #14
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It is a "tack" weld located between the rear of the muzzle nut and the FSB.
Have you tried to unscrew the nut? Maybe it is not welded on yours. It is reverse threads.
Thank you. I am just trying not to screw up a brand new rifle that I like very much :-).
I asked Century tech support, and they told me that while they never tried to take the nut off, they don't think there is any weld. This is a new 2013 model, so anything is possible. I will try it and report back.
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Old 11-17-2013, 04:53 PM   #15
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Thank you. I am just trying not to screw up a brand new rifle that I like very much :-).
I asked Century tech support, and they told me that while they never tried to take the nut off, they don't think there is any weld. This is a new 2013 model, so anything is possible. I will try it and report back.
Found the tack weld. It is on the right side of the FS and completely hidden inside the nut groove. Very sneaky.
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Old 11-17-2013, 07:36 PM   #16
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Found the tack weld. It is on the right side of the FS and completely hidden inside the nut groove. Very sneaky.
A Dremel cut of wheel used very carefully will remove the weld. If it is tight ., cheat to the muzzle nut side as that part will be discarded. A bit of small file work to clean up after the nut is removed and cold blue and done.
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Old 11-18-2013, 03:43 PM   #17
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Update above in original post. Got r done., (well mostly)
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Old 11-18-2013, 03:56 PM   #18
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Nice work Blue, always impressed
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Old 11-18-2013, 07:11 PM   #19
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Update above in original post. Got r done., (well mostly)
That came out well, great work.
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Old 11-20-2013, 08:51 PM   #20
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Hi Blue,

I put on a Tabuk flash hider from Carolinashooterssupply.com. Price was $34, fits well and does not seem to affect accuracy but could only test out to 50 meters.

I tried out a 20-round Promag Vep mag, but the fit is not good. The Vepr mag is about 0.5 mm longer than the Zastava mag, I am still slowly filing at the front locking lug to reduce the height but so far can't get it to rock into position. Another problem is that the back of the mag is more square than the Zastava mag so that the corners catch on the rounded corners of the mag well by the trigger guard. I may try to carefully square up the mag well, but definitely will not increase the length of it for obvious reasons of mag fit.

Who is the manufacturer of the M14 mags that you modified? I've seen some Korean-made ones at Centerfire Systems, are they any good?

thanks

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Old 11-20-2013, 10:43 PM   #21
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Hi Blue,

I put on a Tabuk flash hider from Carolinashooterssupply.com. Price was $34, fits well and does not seem to affect accuracy but could only test out to 50 meters.

I tried out a 20-round Promag Vep mag, but the fit is not good. The Vepr mag is about 0.5 mm longer than the Zastava mag, I am still slowly filing at the front locking lug to reduce the height but so far can't get it to rock into position. Another problem is that the back of the mag is more square than the Zastava mag so that the corners catch on the rounded corners of the mag well by the trigger guard. I may try to carefully square up the mag well, but definitely will not increase the length of it for obvious reasons of mag fit.

Who is the manufacturer of the M14 mags that you modified? I've seen some Korean-made ones at Centerfire Systems, are they any good?

thanks

Pavle2
The M14 mags from Centerfire work fine. Minor mods required to fit.
I used a muzzle device that is as close to the original M77 as I could find. I still have to attach the rear sling swivel on the buttstock. I have one that is very similar to an original M77.

Original M77>

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Old 11-21-2013, 08:43 AM   #22
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The M14 mags from Centerfire work fine. Minor mods required to fit.
I used a muzzle device that is as close to the original M77 as I could find. I still have to attach the rear sling swivel on the buttstock. I have one that is very similar to an original M77.

Original M77>

CNC Warrior has those muzzle devices on sale for $14.99 with $2.65 shipping. I bought one for my M77 I just ordered.

http://www.cncwarrior.com/ProductDet...ductCode=22641
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Old 11-21-2013, 09:14 AM   #23
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CNC Warrior has those muzzle devices on sale for $14.99 with $2.65 shipping. I bought one for my M77 I just ordered.

http://www.cncwarrior.com/ProductDet...ductCode=22641
Yes., CNC has a similar one. The newest version is for some reason a smaller diameter than the previous runs. They work OK for the M77. But for a bayonet accepting rifle the diameter is undersized. Perhaps a manufacturing mistake. The price is right. I have two., but used the older version on the M77.
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Old 11-21-2013, 05:01 PM   #24
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Nah., that is this one., an 8mm street cleaner., the AKM76.>

That is beyond sexy.
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Old 11-21-2013, 07:20 PM   #25
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Standard M70 furniture is a direct swap out for the factory M77 furniture? It looks great like that, it should come that way from the factory.
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Old 11-21-2013, 10:31 PM   #26
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Standard M70 furniture is a direct swap out for the factory M77 furniture? It looks great like that, it should come that way from the factory.
Yep., standard M70 furniture and pistol grip.
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Old 11-23-2013, 01:54 AM   #27
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Here is my progress to date. Wood is from Ak-builder, looks to be a type of birch. I coated with linseed oil, the color is close to the elm that is used on most of the Zastava wood. Flash hider is from South Carolina Shooters supply.

Planning to weld up the back of the receiver to the normal square configuration. I want to first pull the slant cut rear trunnion, weld in the triangular receiver piece, and then rivet in a replacement, uncut, trunnion. One more complication is that the scope rail interferes with access to the top long rivet, so I will need to carefully make a clearance cut in the rail to drill out that rivet.

Unlike Blue, I don't have a scrap receiver to work with so I am fabricating the piece out of 1.5 mm thick 4130 sheet.

A lot of work...wish Zastava would just export the rifle without cutting the slant, like the Vepr configuration.
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Old 11-23-2013, 01:59 AM   #28
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Did you modify the receiver/trigger gaurd to make the M14 mags fit or did you modify the mags to fit?
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Old 11-23-2013, 02:09 AM   #29
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Did you modify the receiver/trigger gaurd to make the M14 mags fit or did you modify the mags to fit?
I followed this guide. However I did not clearance the left feedlip to clear the extractor. I modified the tab on the rear of the mag so it would lock in and the left lip is resting right under the ejector rail. I removed maybe .100" with a Dremel cut off wheel to start until I got good lockup. The mag latch locks on the underside of the rear tab.

No other mods except maybe a little file here or there if heavy contact.

http://www.theakforum.net/forums/30-...s-back-up.html

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Old 11-23-2013, 02:14 AM   #30
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Here is my progress to date. Wood is from Ak-builder, looks to be a type of birch. I coated with linseed oil, the color is close to the elm that is used on most of the Zastava wood. Flash hider is from South Carolina Shooters supply.

Planning to weld up the back of the receiver to the normal square configuration. I want to first pull the slant cut rear trunnion, weld in the triangular receiver piece, and then rivet in a replacement, uncut, trunnion. One more complication is that the scope rail interferes with access to the top long rivet, so I will need to carefully make a clearance cut in the rail to drill out that rivet.

Unlike Blue, I don't have a scrap receiver to work with so I am fabricating the piece out of 1.5 mm thick 4130 sheet.

A lot of work...wish Zastava would just export the rifle without cutting the slant, like the Vepr configuration.

Might be easier to make a metal insert that simulates the bottom of the trunnion and weld that vs removing the trunnion. The stock locks up so tight etc., I saw no need to pull the rear trunnion. Originally I planned to de-rivet and pull the trunnion., but not worth the extra work & expense.
I think I can fab a cleaning rod retainer ring for the barrel. I have a rear sling swivel mount for the buttstock like the M77.
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Old 11-23-2013, 07:07 PM   #31
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A Dremel cut of wheel used very carefully will remove the weld. If it is tight ., cheat to the muzzle nut side as that part will be discarded. A bit of small file work to clean up after the nut is removed and cold blue and done.
Thanks, it worked. Needs a little bluing now, but very little. It'll be one good looking rifle.
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Old 11-28-2013, 08:58 PM   #32
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I just received two m77's. These are my first ak platforms and I hope to follow your build, I love the look. I got the nuts off the muzzle and have some tapco slot brakes to install but I need the spring and plunger assembly. There are too many choices and none specifically listed M77. Also what product did you use to touch up the finish? Any advice appreciated.
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:53 PM   #33
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http://ak-builder.com/index.php?disp...oduct_id=30567

This should work for u.
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Old 11-28-2013, 11:59 PM   #34
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Ordered and on the way. Thanks.
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Old 11-30-2013, 04:18 PM   #35
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That will not work in a M77. Yugo and AK47 pattern FSB plungers are longer than AKM.

Cold blue for covering any revealed metal. Brownwll's Oxpho Blue is good.
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