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Old 03-02-2013, 06:54 PM   #1
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Default Norinco MAK 90 conversion (Type 56)

Norinco MAK 90 conversion (Type 56)

The details...


















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Old 03-02-2013, 07:03 PM   #2
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Very, very nice.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:03 PM   #3
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wow...so pretty it took a minute to notice it was slant cut. Outstanding! IWD furniture I assume?
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:10 PM   #4
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Thanks guys. Ironwood indeed. I really enjoy finishing their stuff.
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:15 PM   #5
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That's a great looking set of furniture there. Is there a particular dye/stain you used to get that color? Could you post up some side by side pics with the old chicom wood?
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:16 PM   #6
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It's so Chu-ey! Looks very nice. Beech?
Don't you just hate how the metal on these never photographs as pretty as it really is?
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Old 03-02-2013, 07:52 PM   #7
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Here's the original setup. I could be wrong, but it appears as though the Chicoms just used amber shellac.





This IWD furniture is birch.

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Old 03-03-2013, 01:18 AM   #8
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not just amber shellac, your gun is a beauty !!!!, i did a fake spiker and tried to just use amber shellac over the NOS polytech lower HG, and it still doesnt match right, still too light

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Old 03-03-2013, 01:17 PM   #9
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Very nice work! I went a different direction with mine.



Sitting beside A MAK-90 my buddy picked up from a old farmer last month for $200.




G2 trigger
Ultimak rail
CNC Warrior AK-74 style brake
PA Microdot
Hogue ghillie green grip
I made the stock set from curly maple; finished with a green stain, satin marine varnish, and a Hogue recoil pad.
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Old 03-03-2013, 03:14 PM   #10
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Nice MAK's guys!
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Old 03-03-2013, 04:56 PM   #11
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so what color did you use ? and then tung oil im guessing ?

let me know please, i still need to iron out my lower HG
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrous_bob View Post
so what color did you use ? and then tung oil im guessing ?

let me know please, i still need to iron out my lower HG


I used amber shellac and orange transtint. No tung oil.
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Old 03-03-2013, 05:12 PM   #13
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Johnny, do you put anything over the shellac? How do you think varnish compares with shellac in terms of durability?
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Old 03-03-2013, 11:25 PM   #14
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Johnny, do you put anything over the shellac? How do you think varnish compares with shellac in terms of durability?
I don't put anything over the shellac. I have not worked with varnish, so I can't compare it to shellac. Sorry. Shellac is actually fairly durable and easy to redo if it gets messed up. I love working with it. It's what the Soviets used for decades and just looks cool.
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:33 AM   #15
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Beautiful rifle, Johnny. I hope to accomplish nearly the same thing soon. I recently purchased a slant cut MAK90 but I don't think its cut the same as yours. There's not a notch in mine. Did your Ironwood stock, come in that configuration, or did you modify it to fit the receiver profile?

Wildbill, I'm a traditionalist for the most part, but there's something oddly attractive about your stock. Dimensionally, how does it compare to an RPK stock? What tools did you use to carve the stock?
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Old 03-04-2013, 12:01 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnny5.56 View Post
I used amber shellac and orange transtint. No tung oil.
I was going to say Transtint, but didn't know if you had a trade secret for refinishing. I've used the Transtint Vintage Maple on other projects, but think it might be a closer match than orange. If you use a little of the maple, it's an amber color. Too much and it's dark golden brown.

Your stocks look good though. I'll have to get some scrap wood to test them out, I want to do a Mak-90 conversion myself in the future.
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Old 03-04-2013, 12:57 PM   #17
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Karr, thank you for the compliment. I have never held a RPK, so I cannot compare the two. My MAK is actually a MISR-90 I bought for $299 years ago, so I just wanted have fun with the shape. The shape was inspired by the RPK, but I brought the top back straight to provide max cheek weld. I left it a little heavy to absorb recoil, since I don't plan on running this in a class due to the inherently weaker way that the butt stock must attach to the receiver. I did bed the stock to the gun with epoxy, and use a little black 5200 (marine grade sealant) in final assembly to provide some extra adhesion and cushion from recoil.

I used common woodworking tools shaping this stock, but I am a professional woodworker and have a full shop. The butt stock is a solid piece, but the fore grip was laminated (with epoxy) from 3 pieces in a "U" shape to get a blank the proper thickness and save time milling the barrel channel.
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Old 03-04-2013, 03:15 PM   #18
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What makes the stock to receiver joint inherently weak?
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Old 03-04-2013, 05:37 PM   #19
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On my MAK, the rear of the receiver is solid. The wood cannot slide into the the back of the gun. So only the tang screws, a bedded fit, and a little 3M 5200 for good measure hold the butt in place. I just looked at the MAK-90 slant cut stock on IWD's site, and am guessing from the pic that they are not all set up like mine.
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Old 03-04-2013, 10:29 PM   #20
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Thanks! My IWD stock did come in that configuration.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Karr View Post
Beautiful rifle, Johnny. I hope to accomplish nearly the same thing soon. I recently purchased a slant cut MAK90 but I don't think its cut the same as yours. There's not a notch in mine. Did your Ironwood stock, come in that configuration, or did you modify it to fit the receiver profile?

Wildbill, I'm a traditionalist for the most part, but there's something oddly attractive about your stock. Dimensionally, how does it compare to an RPK stock? What tools did you use to carve the stock?
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Old 03-04-2013, 11:38 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrous_bob View Post
not just amber shellac, your gun is a beauty !!!!, i did a fake spiker and tried to just use amber shellac over the NOS polytech lower HG, and it still doesnt match right, still too light

I did something similar to my re-fanged MAK.





Though for the life of me I can't remember what shade of Minwax poly/stain mix I used.
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Old 03-05-2013, 12:06 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hazmat97 View Post
I did something similar to my re-fanged MAK.





Though for the life of me I can't remember what shade of Minwax poly/stain mix I used.
Nice!
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Old 03-05-2013, 07:18 AM   #23
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Quote:
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Norinco MAK 90 conversion (Type 56)

The details...


















Super job on the furniture, If a guy has bought this furniture can he ship it to you for finishing?
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Old 03-05-2013, 12:22 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mustang74 View Post
Super job on the furniture, If a guy has bought this furniture can he ship it to you for finishing?
Thank you. Absolutely. For anyone who's interested, please free to email me for the details.
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:43 PM   #25
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My MAK90 was made for an underfolder...will I still be able to put a fixed stock on it?

It is a slant/angle cut receiver and I already know ironwood designs would be my best option however I'm not sure if they make a stock set for my type of receiver.
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:49 PM   #26
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Yes, IWD has stocksets for the angle cut receivers, whether they're milled or stamped. If you look at the OPs rifle, his has the angle cut receiver.
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:55 PM   #27
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stamped..my receiver is a little different than his.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg mak90un28zw.jpg (15.9 KB, 12 views)
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:23 PM   #28
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Have you thought of returning to its underfolder roots?
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Old 03-13-2013, 11:26 AM   #29
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No...prefer a fixed stock
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:23 PM   #30
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Not the best picture but I put a European front sight from a milled kit (fit perfect) and the gas block was cut in half for training so I cut the loop off and welded it on. The front of the barrel was .500" roughly so I threaded it 1/2 x 28 and put a US slant brake. Ironwood stock and it does take a bayonet on the front. Can't tell it from a older one.
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Old 03-13-2013, 06:29 PM   #31
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Ironwood comes through again, very nice.
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