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Old 02-13-2018, 08:54 AM   #1
Jack48860
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Default Saiga conversion BHO question

I recently completed a rear conversion on my Saiga 7.62x39 rifle. I purchased the CSS tapco kit with the modified hammer. I installed all my parts including the BHO lever and spring. The trigger wouldn’t reset.
I took it apart and REinstalled everything and left the BHO lever and spring out. Everything works great now. Trigger resets. I was only able to fire 30 rounds through the rifle. No issues.
My question is... is the BHO necessary with the modified tapco hammer? Should I attempt to reinstall it? Should I order a new unmodified hammer? Would the original hammer work?
Thanks!
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Old 02-13-2018, 09:25 AM   #2
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I also have a new RAK-1 trigger I could install if necessary. I prefer the Tapco though.
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Old 02-13-2018, 09:58 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack48860 View Post
I also have a new RAK-1 trigger I could install if necessary. I prefer the Tapco though.
take a dremel and grind sand
smooth out the trigger that is square like more like this https://media.midwayusa.com/producti...110/110123.jpg
so your index finger has a better fit
then polish these parts https://hcsblogdotorg.files.wordpres...-polishing.jpg for a smoother pull
then grind down the hooks front to lessen the pull travel a 1/3 of a inch or so . the safety might not work after that so beware, its fixable..
but you need to extend the saftey arm block at the back off it
https://www.brownells.com/userdocs/p...00024717_1.jpg
you can super glue or weld a piece of flat metal too it to extend it to touch the trigger arm that raises up so the safety will work again

Last edited by saiga21308; 02-13-2018 at 10:03 AM.
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:07 AM   #4
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if you want the bolt to stay open you can take the dremel again on the safety and grind out this area like this http://www.firearmsnews.com/files/20...K_safety_2.jpg
so you can manually lock the bolt open for quick inspection in the field if you get a squib round in the barrel say

Last edited by nalioth; 02-13-2018 at 10:31 AM. Reason: Fixed huge image(s)
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:14 AM   #5
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heres a better photo of the safety block

that needs to be lengthen to hold the trigger in place in the downward position to make it work after you ground down the trigger hook to shorten the travel on the tapco 2
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:23 AM   #6
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The Saiga seems to work now with the CSS tapco trigger and NO BHO lever.
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:34 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack48860 View Post
The Saiga seems to work now with the CSS tapco trigger and NO BHO lever.
You done good, OP.

The BHO lever is a plague on a fine gun.

It is only present to satisfy "importation points", and not to add any functionality to the gun ( It was never part of any designs Saint Kalashnikov made )


It is capable of turning one's converted Saiga into a useless objet d'art if one isn't careful.
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Old 02-13-2018, 11:19 AM   #8
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I was just concerned because the CSS tapco hammer has been modified to fit the BHO Lever.
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Old 02-13-2018, 03:25 PM   #9
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CSS said it would be fine to leave it out also:
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Old 02-13-2018, 04:04 PM   #10
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If it was me I would either replace the hammer or install a washer the same thickness as the BHO lever on the axis pin.
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Old 02-13-2018, 04:08 PM   #11
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If it was me I would either replace the hammer or install a washer the same thickness as the BHO lever on the axis pin.
Well, those who aren't you don't have problems with their narrowed hammer.

It tends to be "self centering".
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Old 02-13-2018, 05:57 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by nalioth View Post
Well, those who aren't you don't have problems with their narrowed hammer.

It tends to be "self centering".
This.

The coiled springs on each side of the hammer will keep it centered just fine.
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Old 02-13-2018, 06:12 PM   #13
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Good info. I will leave it as is. Thanks for the advice.
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:23 PM   #14
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Quote:
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I was just concerned because the CSS tapco hammer has been modified to fit the BHO Lever.
you might want to measure and compare it to your stock hammer, it might not be enough. It should work fine if everything is of similar dimensions.
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:37 PM   #15
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It's a bit of a bitch to cram the mag into place with the bolt closed, but it'll work
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Old 02-13-2018, 09:17 PM   #16
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Nails is correct that the hammer tends to be self centering.

However, if anyone is concerned about their rifle, they can check the FCG components for binding by removing the top cover and confirming for proper operation. There is some lateral (left / right) play in the components. Shift the hammer to the far right and the trigger to the far left and check for binding. Shift the hammer to the far left and the trigger to the far right . . .

I've converted several Saigas and they all worked fine with the BHO in or out. Given that the BHO can be a major pita to install people often leave them out even after purchasing the modified hammer.

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Old 02-14-2018, 03:27 AM   #17
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Quote:
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you might want to measure and compare it to your stock hammer, it might not be enough. It should work fine if everything is of similar dimensions.
You know the hammer head isn't modified, right?

Just the raceway ( wot fits on the pivot pin )



There are thousands of guys running their Saigas this way and no issues reported from it.
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Old 02-14-2018, 09:10 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nalioth View Post
You know the hammer head isn't modified, right?

Just the raceway ( wot fits on the pivot pin )



There are thousands of guys running their Saigas this way and no issues reported from it.
yes sir, that is what I was suggesting he measure, maybe it was a tad too long and binding.
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Old 02-15-2018, 07:13 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nalioth View Post
You done good, OP.

The BHO lever is a plague on a fine gun.

It is only present to satisfy "importation points", and not to add any functionality to the gun ( It was never part of any designs Saint Kalashnikov made )


It is capable of turning one's converted Saiga into a useless objet d'art if one isn't careful.

What he said.^

If you have a Saiga BHO device, you'd best remove it and throw it away. It has a flimsy little loop return spring that is prone to failure, it which case, your bolt is locked back fast and cannot be induced to to unlock without disassembly of the rifle innards (a royal PITA in that condition). Or if you're lucky, you might be able to pull the BHO back into it's unlocked position from the outside by pulling it down with a pick of some sort. In any case, the BHO is a liability, especially if it decides to take a shit in the middle of a SHTF moment.

Does not a standard Tapco G2 FCG fit a Saiga 7.62x39 with the BHO removed? I know .308s are complicated because they take a special hammer profile to clear the rivet. The stock Saiga hammer is modified by trimming the end of the pin pivot to accommodate the useless BHO lever.

I think I'd rather have the hammer and sear in proper alignment rather than count on the "self aligning" loose stock hammer. You could stick a washer in there to take up the space left over by the BHO removal. The trick is, on assembly, to super glue the washer onto the right end of the hammer's pin pivot so you can get all the pieces together in those narrow confines.

Last edited by Meataxe556; 02-17-2018 at 05:26 PM.
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Old 02-15-2018, 08:07 AM   #20
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Does not a standard Tapco G2 FCG fit a Saiga 7.62x39 with the BHO removed?
Yes.
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Old 02-15-2018, 11:36 AM   #21
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What he said.^

I know .308s are complicated because they take a special hammer profile to clear the rivet. The stock Saiga hammer is modified by trimming the end of the pin pivot to accommodate the useless BHO lever.
I've converted two S-308 rifles using standard Tapco G2 FCGs. I never had to muck with anything unless I wanted to use the BHO, in which case all I had to do is narrow the end of the pivot.

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Old 02-16-2018, 03:12 AM   #22
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I've converted two S-308 rifles using standard Tapco G2 FCGs. I never had to muck with anything unless I wanted to use the BHO, in which case all I had to do is narrow the end of the pivot.

Larry

Huh.

Well that's strange, because every .308 Vepr and Saiga hammer I've seen (including the stock Saiga "sporters") has a slot machined into the lower hammer face (and in the case of modified Tapco G2s, the point sticking out forward of the pin pivot ground off), presumedly so said hammer would clear the riveted-in crossmember to engage the bolt / firing pin without striking the crossmember. Are your G2s striking or otherwise getting interfered with by the crossmember?

For a while, Dinzag could not offer his G2s modified for Saiga and Vepr .308s because the machine he used to grind down the fronts of the hammers was out of service.
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Old 02-16-2018, 10:53 AM   #23
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Huh.

Well that's strange, because every .308 Vepr and Saiga hammer I've seen (including the stock Saiga "sporters") has a slot machined into the lower hammer face (and in the case of modified Tapco G2s, the point sticking out forward of the pin pivot ground off), presumedly so said hammer would clear the riveted-in crossmember to engage the bolt / firing pin without striking the crossmember. Are your G2s striking or otherwise getting interfered with by the crossmember?

For a while, Dinzag could not offer his G2s modified for Saiga and Vepr .308s because the machine he used to grind down the fronts of the hammers was out of service.
The stuff you mention is also mentioned on Dizag's web site.

That is strange. My Saiga S-308s were the first two rifles I ever converted, both converted over a decade ago. I didn't have to do any of the extra modifications decribed. I wonder if the newer 308s are different than the original . . .

Anyway, we're not helping the OP here and both my 308s are sold now. I can probably research this on my own of I ever get interested enough.

Thanks for the clarification,

Larry
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