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Old 02-13-2018, 01:24 AM   #36
jstokes1
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Originally Posted by Fade2Blk View Post
Diamond stones and practice time is all it takes. As far as hair shaving sharpness it stops cutting hair as soon as you use the blade to cut something.
Unless you are using a high wear steel such as M-390 Bolher
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Old 02-13-2018, 08:25 AM   #37
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Unless you are using a high wear steel such as M-390 Bolher
I must have junk steel on my Hindererís and Striderís then.
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Old 02-13-2018, 01:44 PM   #38
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I must have junk steel on my Hinderer’s and Strider’s then.
What steel is used on those? Because my M-390's and z-wear PMs stay hair cutting sharp after moderate use, working edge lasts even longer (I'm very impressed with Z-Wear currently, have it on a big chopped and even with hard use and batoning still cut leg hair, then strops right back. Up to a razor's edge in minutes) Check out the Lionsteel M4 if you want a nice 3.75" fixed M-390 satin blade with G10 scales for a great price. Picked mine up for 150 shipped.
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Old 02-13-2018, 06:14 PM   #39
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Are you sharpening $100.00+ knives with premium steel? Then the suggestions in this thread are all good.

Sharpening an axe, an AK bayonet, a cheap knife, a big fucking 1095 prybar chopper? Then buy a 1x30 belt sander and an assortment of belts. Two minutes and you've got razor.
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Old 02-14-2018, 09:14 PM   #40
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I use Japanese Water Stone from Norton Waterstones . I also use a diamond impregnated blade sharpener to touch things up when needed . There are many ways to sharpen a blade . Most people press the blade against the sharpener too hard . The secret to blade sharpening is to use a light touch. A very light stroke . T
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Old 02-14-2018, 09:25 PM   #41
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The Lionsteel M-4 has a hollow grind . I don't like knives with " hollow grinds " .
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Old 02-14-2018, 10:24 PM   #42
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Stokes what are using to sharpen your Lionsteel in 390? I like that blade and want to try that type of steel but have heard that it will require 2-3 times longer to sharpen it. That's a using stones etc not just a strop. I could handle it ok if I knew that I just need to keep it stropped up.

I have a couple w CPM 3V and I like it a lot, but they do take longer to get sharp again after quite a bit of use. That's comparing it to say 1095, which gets dull pretty fast but can be sharpened on a rock.
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Old 02-17-2018, 09:47 PM   #43
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The Lionsteel M-4 has a hollow grind . I don't like knives with " hollow grinds " .
What? no it doesn't. It has a saber grind, pretty much a full flat grind.
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Old 02-17-2018, 09:48 PM   #44
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Stokes what are using to sharpen your Lionsteel in 390? I like that blade and want to try that type of steel but have heard that it will require 2-3 times longer to sharpen it. That's a using stones etc not just a strop. I could handle it ok if I knew that I just need to keep it stropped up.

I have a couple w CPM 3V and I like it a lot, but they do take longer to get sharp again after quite a bit of use. That's comparing it to say 1095, which gets dull pretty fast but can be sharpened on a rock.
I use some diamond stones and a hand held strop (for the lasky system, I just free hand it). I have two knives in M-390, this lionsteel and a Maxace folder. It is quite difficult to raise a burr with conventional stones.
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Old 02-18-2018, 12:59 AM   #45
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What? no it doesn't. It has a saber grind, pretty much a full flat grind.
According to the knife specifications listed the type of grind was " Hollow " !
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Old 02-22-2018, 06:50 PM   #46
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That's comparing it to say 1095, which gets dull pretty fast but can be sharpened on a rock.
And that's my experience with 1095 as well, same way with my 5160's, AUS-8 blades and my Buck 420HC's, which leads me to wonder if they aren't better choices in a true survival situation?
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Old 03-05-2018, 11:15 AM   #47
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And that's my experience with 1095 as well, same way with my 5160's, AUS-8 blades and my Buck 420HC's, which leads me to wonder if they aren't better choices in a true survival situation?
If you want a very good steel that has twice the edge retention of 1095 and still has some stainless properties, look in to a knife that is made with 3V or Z-Wear (my favorite). Just make sure you practice sharpening these higher wear steels so you can adequately sharpen your knife in all conditions.
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Old 04-02-2018, 07:49 PM   #48
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Quick update. I recently picked up a small but really effective four rod ceramic rod sharpening kit made by Lansky that comes in a small wooden box that stores the rods.

It is was only around $15 from Amazon. It basically is a much cheaper version of the Spyderco Sharpmaker and I am finding that it is just as effective.

The ceramic rods are shorter. Also it gives you an option for a 25 degree angle with which I have been experimenting on certain bushcraft blades. Working great so far.

Also I finally broke down and bought the Ken Onion worksharp. I haven't used it yet, but I will for sure. That last hand re-profiling of a dull OKC 3S Bayo was the bridge too far for forearm tendinitis and nascent hand arthritis. C' est la vie.
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Last edited by Rev06; 04-03-2018 at 05:08 PM. Reason: Lansky "eraser" for cleaning ceramic rods is GTG
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