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Old 07-19-2014, 11:37 PM   #1
natlmatch
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Default Repairing the rubber gasket on an ammo can

Has anyone replaced theirs? If so, where did you find the correct rubber gasket material, please? I was wondering if I should just cut to fit and cement in some rubber gasket from a cheap cylinder head cover? Of course there would be small gaps where I need to cut it and I would like to avoid that. Does anyone sell an exact replacement I wonder? Also whats a good brand of adhesive to use?

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Old 07-20-2014, 12:28 AM   #2
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I have tried to find replacement seal in the past with not avail or cost prohibitive. If I where you there are a lot of good deals if you look and are patient. just get new one IMHO
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Old 07-20-2014, 06:26 AM   #3
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To keep seals on surplus ammo cans pliable I usually clean them off and put a film of petroleum jelly on them.
Really dried out or broken rubber seals usually means it became a spare parts container or tool box around the house.
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Old 07-20-2014, 07:56 AM   #4
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I soak mine in Ballistol for a week or so. It really comes back to life afterwards.


Anyway, replacements? Haven't found any.

Getting a new "gasket" ends up costing more than a brand new can. (Btw, they're like $10)
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:24 AM   #5
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Check out the rubber gaskets at your local boat supply place. All sorts of gaskets for boat hatches to sealer out the weather.
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Old 07-20-2014, 08:35 AM   #6
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Commercial window caulk-Tremco
Fill the opening in the lid let it cure for 1 week
Better than new
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Old 07-20-2014, 09:45 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commiblockakspecialist View Post
Commercial window caulk-Tremco
Fill the opening in the lid let it cure for 1 week
Better than new
I have a few cans without gaskets, might just try that. I do some work for a glass/window company from time to time and the caulk they use is awesome.
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Old 07-20-2014, 09:45 AM   #8
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There has to be a source for new gaskets, the cans are still being made new.

As for being cost prohibitive, that's subjective. With the price of cans these days, a few bucks to rehab a can to almost new condition is kind of worth it.
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Old 07-20-2014, 09:59 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Commiblockakspecialist View Post
Commercial window caulk-Tremco
Fill the opening in the lid let it cure for 1 week
Better than new
I was thinking of a bead of RTV. Pull out the old gasket and lay a bead of RTV in the grove. Let it set up and it should be good to go for a while?

Never tried it but it should work?

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Old 07-20-2014, 10:31 AM   #10
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I ran into new production ammo cans being sold in Sam's Club recently - metal ones nearly identical to the US military ones. They were expensive however in comparison to the surplus ones. Ditto on the Vaseline and ballistol to keep the rubber pliable and viable.
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Old 07-20-2014, 10:52 AM   #11
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Just buy a giant O ring. You can get them online. You just have to measure the thickness.
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Old 07-20-2014, 04:24 PM   #12
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What about the rubber that's holds the screen in on house windows
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:24 AM   #13
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What about the rubber that's holds the screen in on house windows
Probably too thin a strand to fill the space in can lid. It also becomes brittle over time and loses elasticity.
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Old 07-22-2014, 01:29 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ak D View Post
What about the rubber that's holds the screen in on house windows
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Originally Posted by tommygun2000 View Post
Probably too thin a strand to fill the space in can lid. It also becomes brittle over time and loses elasticity.
Flat screen spline might work better then the round stuff if the lid has a channel to hold it in place, but you'll have a gap where the ends meet, it's stretchy to work with and it will shrink over time. And it's made to be ridged to hold the screen in-place so it might not form a good seal. The round spline also has groves in it so that will/may effect the seal too.

I’d shy away from using petroleum based stuff to use on rubber gaskets, it can do more harm then good to the plasticizers in the rubber over time, and I use plumber’s silicon grease. Ah little dab on a Q-Tip will do ya.

I bought a couple plastic piano cans and the rubber gasket wasn’t totally sealing it when I filled it with ammo, then closed & locked the lid. So I got some high quality 100% silicon caulk, ran a bead in the channel, and then gingerly put the rubber gasket back in place while it was still gooey. I let it dry for a couple days and the silicon adhered to the rubber gasket and raised it up, and the gasket seal works much better now but, not as good as a metal can, but better then it did. I use it for other stuff but I do not feel it seals good enough to store my ammo in. I’ll never-ever-never-never-ever buy a plastic can again. I think they are too flimsy as the sides bow when loaded down with heavy ammo and then picked up by their plastic handle, and they don’t "seal-tight" for shit.

To replace a dried out cracked seal-gasket-ring, I’d try getting some black 100% silicon caulk, “not the cheap stuff”, and run a bead or three in the channel, let it sit for a couple days or four without touching it and it should seal-up just fine.

YMMV
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Old 07-22-2014, 05:10 PM   #15
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If you're going silicone caulk, the absolute best stuff I have ever used is called "E-6000", or "Eclectic 6000". This stuff is literally indestructable once set up. Not a silicone, it is listed as an industrial adhesive but dries to a rubber-like state. It is also self leveling, so if ya flip the lid upside down and run a bead it should flatten out to form a good gasket as long as the depth of fill is correct.

The sales rep sent us a sample of the cured product as a rectangular strip about 1/4" thick. We had two guys pull on it, the stuff stretched until it was so small you couldn't hold on to it anymore, but never broke in half. Just be warned it's pretty much permanent!

http://www.eclecticproducts.com/e6000_retail.htm
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Old 07-22-2014, 05:13 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by secrethowitzercorps View Post
To keep seals on surplus ammo cans pliable I usually clean them off and put a film of petroleum jelly on them.
Really dried out or broken rubber seals usually means it became a spare parts container or tool box around the house.
You are ruining them doing that. The seals are rubber, and you are putting petroleum jelly on them. The seals are being eaten away. If you have a rubber seal put silicone on them, if you have a silicone seal, put a petroleum based lubricant on them.
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Old 07-23-2014, 10:40 PM   #17
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Lotsa good info guys, TYVM!! I have two that are in need of a new gasket. Will report back with results.
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Old 07-23-2014, 10:57 PM   #18
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Quote:
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You are ruining them doing that. The seals are rubber, and you are putting petroleum jelly on them. The seals are being eaten away.
Babies are born because this very mistake was made on another application.
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So, can I assume that WTF is not one of the Marketplace headings like WTS, WTB, or WTT?
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Old 07-23-2014, 11:58 PM   #19
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Babies are born because this very mistake was made on another application.
That is true. Petroleum jelly will dissolve a condom in 30 seconds. Your ammo can seals, don't do it. Silicon all the way.
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Old 07-24-2014, 01:03 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KernelKrink View Post
If you're going silicone caulk, the absolute best stuff I have ever used is called "E-6000", or "Eclectic 6000". This stuff is literally indestructable once set up. Not a silicone, it is listed as an industrial adhesive but dries to a rubber-like state. It is also self leveling, so if ya flip the lid upside down and run a bead it should flatten out to form a good gasket as long as the depth of fill is correct. The sales rep sent us a sample of the cured product as a rectangular strip about 1/4" thick. We had two guys pull on it, the stuff stretched until it was so small you couldn't hold on to it anymore, but never broke in half. Just be warned it's pretty much permanent!
http://www.eclecticproducts.com/e6000_retail.htm
Yes it's good stuff but very very expensive. Like 10x more then silicone.
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Old 07-24-2014, 09:42 PM   #21
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That is true. Petroleum jelly will dissolve a condom in 30 seconds.
That's isn't a problem for some guys...
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So, can I assume that WTF is not one of the Marketplace headings like WTS, WTB, or WTT?
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Old 07-24-2014, 10:07 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KernelKrink View Post
If you're going silicone caulk, the absolute best stuff I have ever used is called "E-6000", or "Eclectic 6000". This stuff is literally indestructable once set up. Not a silicone, it is listed as an industrial adhesive but dries to a rubber-like state. It is also self leveling, so if ya flip the lid upside down and run a bead it should flatten out to form a good gasket as long as the depth of fill is correct.

http://www.eclecticproducts.com/e6000_retail.htm
Instead of a that caulk, I would recommend a polyurethane one:

BASF SONOLASTIC NP1 ONE-PART POLYURETHANE CAULKING SEALANT sorry Mods, feel free to delete if linking like this is not allowed.

PRODUCT: BASF SONOLASTIC NP1 ONE-PART POLYURETHANE CAULKING SEALANT, WHITE COLOR, 10.1 OZ / 300mL TUBE. PRICE/TUBE (30/case, order full cases for added discounts).

FEATURES: Sonneborn NP 1 Polyurethane Sealant. Now being marketed by BASF as Master Builders MasterSeal NP1. Its the same product.

I use this for sealing the joint between the metal flashing and TPO roof membrane (as well as roof jacks, etc). I have some that is ten years old in the NM sunshine and still flexible. I have never done it, but my mason uses it on commercial slabs. After placing the concrete they tear out the celotex expansion joint and fill the it with NP1 near gas pumps and oily areas since it has the same leveling properties. ETA: it cost about 5 bucks at the local roofing wholesale.
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:37 PM   #23
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Here is another solution. Photo are lost but when they were posted, looked pretty good. Instructions are still there
http://forums.thecmp.org/showthread.php?t=53685
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Old 05-27-2018, 09:08 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKhemical74 View Post
You are ruining them doing that. The seals are rubber, and you are putting petroleum jelly on them. The seals are being eaten away. If you have a rubber seal put silicone on them, if you have a silicone seal, put a petroleum based lubricant on them.
Anyone know what material the gasket on surplus ammo cans is made of? It's obviously rubber, but what type? Some suggest it is made of neoprene.

I am using a product called Sil-Gylde (silicone-based grease) on my ammo can gaskets and want to make sure it's safe to use. When applying the Sil-Glyde to the gasket the q-tip has black residue. Just want to confirm that the silicone based grease I am using does not damage the gasket over time.
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Old 05-27-2018, 10:59 PM   #25
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Try using automotive gasket that comes in a tube. It looks like blue or red toothpaste. You can also make a gasket out of the caulk mentioned a few times already. To test it, make your gasket and let it dry. Then fill the can with water and see how long it can hold it in. If it won't leak, you are good to go. Don't be a rube and make sure it is only filled with water, not ammo. Y9u should test any suspect cans while you're at it. Good luck.
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Old 05-29-2018, 11:06 AM   #26
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For silicon protectant for rubber I use my casting mold release can. It's a spray can for silicon molds to keep them soft and supple and help parts eject.

Works great on any kind of rubber gasket.
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