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Old 09-13-2018, 10:56 PM   #1
Wasrbuffalo
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Default Repainting Saiga

Repainting my Saiga .308, the factory paint is flaking off. I'm going to try the Duracoat aerosol spray. Hoping someone could walk me through the prep work.

Can I just degrease it and spray it with the Duracoat? Or am I better off spraying it with brake cleaner, remove original paint with 600 grit paper, degrease and paint?

Thanks in advance for any advice. I don't want to pay a shop $200 to Duracoat it.
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Old 09-14-2018, 10:54 AM   #2
Aceshigh
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From a painting perspective , it is ALWAYS better to do the most prep work you can.
IF it's oily or greasy especially. If it's clean, then you can just wipe it down & spray and see how it does.

With that being said, I have always just used Rustoleum 500 degree satin black engine paint,
without issue on my brakes I add on to match up perfectly. It's available at Walmart, parts stores, anywhere.

https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-24.../dp/B002JFSXTY

OF course, a step up is the Appliance epoxy spray and bake, or Alumahyde.
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Old 09-14-2018, 03:55 PM   #3
Deerhurst
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Good prep makes a good paint job.

Around here I could have the entire thing cerakoted for $200.

Try to limit scratch marks from your sanding, they will show up. Maybe sand or bead blast it? Full degrease with a good degreaser or even alcohol or similar.

Like Aces said, maybe a Rust-Oleum or even an engine or header paint will do the trick. Many of the higher temp coatings, like an engine or header paint, need to be baked on for a full cure.
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Old 09-15-2018, 12:24 AM   #4
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Yes de-grease everything, if the finish is flaked off in spots then some light fine grit sanding could help smooth out things for the new finish. Have had good luck with Brownells Aluma-Hyde, but like others have said the best results with it are when its baked on.


If you have an oven that will fit it, or could always build you a box with heat lamps to dry while hanging. Watch your humidity levels too when painting, and if you do go with the Aluma-hyde, order their extra nozzle tips, that shit will clog in a heart beat.


Light coats, and a matte clear coat will help it last. Don't touch it for a week while curing...
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Old Yesterday, 07:25 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deerhurst View Post
Good prep makes a good paint job.

Around here I could have the entire thing cerakoted for $200.

Try to limit scratch marks from your sanding, they will show up. Maybe sand or bead blast it? Full degrease with a good degreaser or even alcohol or similar.

Like Aces said, maybe a Rust-Oleum or even an engine or header paint will do the trick. Many of the higher temp coatings, like an engine or header paint, need to be baked on for a full cure.
I had all three of my Saigas Cerakoted. It was $225 here.

For the first rifle I had cold feet. But when it came back I was impressed. No second thoughts about having it done the other two times.

It is a good looking, durable hard ass coating.
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