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Old 08-03-2014, 09:11 PM   #1
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Default Weaponmark's etch kit tutorial.

.



.



INSTRUCTIONS FOR ETCHING USING WEAPONMARK DECALS AND ETCH TOOL.

Etch decals and tools are available HERE

Please read in its entirety before you begin.

Follow these directions to successfully etch accurate selector markings from Weaponmark.

In addition to a decal and etching tool, the following items are required:

1/4 cup warm water
1 TSP salt
9v battery

The following items are most strongly suggested:

Transparent tape (scotch type)
Isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol
Some form of timer: watch/clock/phone


1. Preparation of etching surface

You want a SMOOTH surface for best adhesion. If possible, hand sand to a shine. A rough surface will not look good when done. Prepare by removing ALL traces of oil. This is imperative for a successful application. Use household rubbing alcohol, not your favorite caustic cleaner. These types of cleaners can leave residue on the surface and will ruin the bond surface between the decal and the metal. Wipe down the marking area and let dry.

2. Decal application

Your decal is made of three layers. The white backing, the decal, the clear transfer. The transfer is needed to hold the parts in place as you remove the backing of the decal to adhere it to the work surface. Before you start, it is good practice to rub the top layer with a coin or credit card to ensure it has good contact with the face (black vinyl under the clear top) of the decal.







CAREFULLY peel the white backing away from the decal. Using a credit card at a sharp angle is helpful in ensuring the inner pieces do not stick to the backing upon removal. This is more likely to occur around the inside of the A,B,P etc. If a piece becomes misaligned throughout any of the process, the wooden pick is provided as a convenience.






Hold up the decal to a light source after removing the backing to make sure everything is properly aligned.







Visually align your decal on the receiver and gently place in position at an angle that would prevent air bubbles from getting trapped as you finalize placement. Again, rub the clear, top surface with a coin or something similar to ensure decal is firmly placed on the receiver.





You can now slowly, and carefully peel the clear transfer layer away, again at a sharp angle. Make sure there are no wrinkles or gaps. There is usually no recovering from a poorly placed stencil.





Mask around the decal with transparent tape to seal out the electrolyte. If it gets in there so will electricity and you will be etching places you don't want to. I usually go at least 1" in all directions. Application is now complete.





3. Preparation of etch tool.

-Work in a well ventilated area.

-Mix warm water and salt.

Cut the cotton pad into strips.




Fold a piece up and clip it into the black, NEGATIVE (-) lead. Do this in a way that you have a tuft of cotton, just large enough to cover one place at a time. Example: the Yugoslavian "U,R,J" is comprised of three places, and in this particular case, the "AB" would be one place, the "OA" is another place. You want the tuft to be big enough to be able to cover both AB together. Clip the red, POSITIVE (+) lead directly to your receiver. Making sure your black lead is NOT touching the receiver, plug in a good 9v battery.




Dip the cotton into the salt water electrolyte. Make sure it is soaked completely. Remove excess water. You want the cotton wet, but not quite dripping.



Remember this part: PAT, DO NOT RUB.


Touch the wet cotton to the "AB" on the decal. Hold for a few seconds, lift slightly and touch back down. Repeat this for 30 seconds. Move to the "OA". Touch the wet cotton to the OA. Hold for a few seconds, lift and repeat for 30 seconds. If you have a third place, repeat the step. You will work each place for 30 seconds, patting up and down, and again, do not rub. Continue the 30 second cycles until each place has approximately 2:00-2:30 of burn time. You should not need to wet the cotton after the first time if you allowed enough liquid to remain in it. You should see slight bubbling and hear a sizzle sound. Do not breath in the vapors, this is why I am doing this outside.


Place 1



Place 2


Place 1 again


After 4:00, each place had approximately 4 sets of 00:30 etch time. 2:00 total was spent on the AB, 2:00 total was spent on the OA. I then did an additional 00:30 on each one, and overall burn time was completed at the 5:00 mark.

Check your depth with the pick. Keep in mind that the decal has some height, even if it is small. Typically I find 2:30 on each place adequate, but don't assume that's a magic number. Different metal hardness will result in different etch times. An unfolded flat might take a little less time over a heat treated receiver. You may want to try 10-15 second increases to get to the depth you are happy with. Keep in mind, the deeper you go, the wider the marking will be, as the electrolyte will also eat at the sidewalls created by the depth. I actually take this factor into account when creating from originals, so that when you get around the right depth, the width will look good too!





Once you are happy with the depth, go ahead and remove the decal. The pick is a useful tool here.




It is important to clean up the area right away. Failure to properly clean at this stage will quickly promote corrosion. Oil right away after cleaning!

Stand back and pat yourself on the back for a job well done.





PRO TIP.

Most original markings were stamped. The etch process provides a way to give you that stamped marking look that is missing from most rifles. However, one little trick will make your freshly made marking REALLY pop!

Take a piece of 320 grit sandpaper, and place it on your receiver where you etched. Use a pencil eraser to rub the sandpaper over your freshly etched marking in a circular motion. Once a slight contour develops, switch to a scotch-brite pad. This will smooth the edges and will feel like butter, and it really looks like a fresh stamp!




NOTES:

-- Once in a while I see a customers pic and I think it could have come out better than it did. There is a constant theme here, the user didn't follow the directions. Little to no surface prep, and using a power supply that can reanimate Frankenstein. Use the etch tool I offer, or rig a similar one. No need to splice into the power lines for this.--

The markings you will receive are set to the left of the decal to help you visually align them with the detents on your receiver. Take some time to look at original examples to get an idea of placement. Often times, the same model from the same country might have a little variation to placement. It is also common to see placement not perfectly aligned with detents, or the receiver itself. Sometimes even the characters are not perfectly aligned with eachother. This is part of what I recreate when making these decals. It's the subtle touches that help bring your rifle to life.

If this interests you, check out my for sale page by clicking HERE. I am constantly adding more variants, so there's lots more in store!


Thank you for trying my offering, and I hope to have you as a repeat customer. Tell your friends there is a cheaper and better alternative for AK markings from Weaponmark.
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Last edited by Weaponmark; 11-08-2015 at 01:40 AM.
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Old 08-03-2014, 09:36 PM   #2
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That's pretty sweet. I'm looking forward to trying it on my next build.
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Old 08-03-2014, 09:48 PM   #3
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At long last a vendor comes forth with the goods for authentic markings.
Much appreciated!
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Old 08-03-2014, 09:55 PM   #4
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I thought you had to use a piece of stainless steel behind the cotton? Other tutorials show it that way.
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Old 08-04-2014, 12:55 AM   #5
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I'm excited about this Great Etching Package offered by Weaponmark. I can't wait to get mine so I can give it a try!

Chief Bob
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Old 08-04-2014, 11:59 PM   #6
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Will the etching be visible under a coat of gunkote or similar?
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Old 08-05-2014, 06:09 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLASH2006 View Post
Will the etching be visible under a coat of gunkote or similar?
Visibility is no problem.

The depth of your etching is entirely up to you. My goal is authenticity. That includes size, width and depth. However if you feel you want to cut deeper than original, you have that ability.
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Old 08-05-2014, 12:06 PM   #8
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Very cool
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Old 08-10-2014, 09:00 PM   #9
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got mine but will be out of town working the next 2 weeks. I will work on this when I get back!
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Old 08-15-2014, 12:03 AM   #10
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Tag! For later.
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Old 08-16-2014, 10:21 PM   #11
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This stuff is really nice and easy to do. Outcome looks very good and the tutorial instructions are spot on.
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Old 08-24-2014, 05:18 PM   #12
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Just did my etching on two Yugos a M72 and an M70 it took only about 20 minsto do bth and was very easy the instructions were very accurate. Sorry the pics suck but figured I would share.

http://************/gallery/7pk9hfeu/
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Old 08-30-2014, 12:13 PM   #13
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Do I need to get down to the bare metal or can I apply it on top of the gunkote?
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Old 08-31-2014, 06:59 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coaldigger View Post
Do I need to get down to the bare metal or can I apply it on top of the gunkote?

This is a good question.

I'm positive it would not work on a painted surface. It should work on blue or oxide though.

However, I'm trying out something that might do the trick for painted surfaces. Its in my head right now, and when I get some free time I'll try it out.
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Old 09-05-2014, 09:00 PM   #15
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Got the etch kit in the mail this afternoon and did a receiver with it. Followed the instructions and added about 45 seconds to what you called for. I'm very satisfied. To answer a question, It is plenty deep and defined enough for a coating like Gunkote or Molyresin.

Wish I could post a photo but my camera is tits up.
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Old 09-22-2014, 04:17 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weaponmark View Post
This is a good question.

I'm positive it would not work on a painted surface. It should work on blue or oxide though.

However, I'm trying out something that might do the trick for painted surfaces. Its in my head right now, and when I get some free time I'll try it out.
Just wondering if you tried it on top of gunkote yet? I'm sure it will not work but just wondering.

I have a Kassnar FEG SA85M I would like to apply it on but the receiver has gunkote on it, at least I think it does but I do know it's not blued.

I use the gun a lot at least once a week so it's not a safe queen but I still take care of it and it still looks new but then again I'm not afraid to remove some of the gunkote to apply your kit/markings and it would be even better if I could apply it with/over the gunkote and still look nice.



Me with my Kassnar in 1992 near Eurika, Utah
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Old 09-25-2014, 10:51 AM   #17
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say i wanted to do this to a saiga receiver how would you fill in S and F markings?
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Old 09-25-2014, 03:24 PM   #18
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I got to try these out. Some Arsenal markings would be cool on a milled receiver or on AMT's Front Trunnions.
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Old 10-05-2014, 11:33 PM   #19
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After a couple of practice runs I etched my M64 Build with the correct markings. I am thrilled with the results.




I will definitely use these for any future builds.
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Old 10-08-2014, 11:08 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coaldigger View Post
Just wondering if you tried it on top of gunkote yet? I'm sure it will not work but just wondering.
I have not yet. I don't have any gunkote. I did recently spray some metal while trying to replicate the EG74 receiver finish so I have something painted to play with.

Quote:
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say i wanted to do this to a saiga receiver how would you fill in S and F markings?
Tough call. The right way would be to TIG the markings, grind down etc. I have had a couple customers actually do this which I think is awesome really, quite involved but I certainly know where they are coming from

Quote:
Originally Posted by boutcha View Post
I got to try these out. Some Arsenal markings would be cool on a milled receiver or on AMT's Front Trunnions.
Been messing around a little. I do have a Tula star done, but I'm trying to figure out a price point, or maybe a set of Tula/Izzy/Molot or something.

Quote:
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After a couple of practice runs I etched my M64 Build with the correct markings. I am thrilled with the results.




I will definitely use these for any future builds.
Man seeing that really makes me happy. That looks killer! Once someone gets the basics you can literally do this with a beer in hand. Thank you for posting this!
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Old 10-20-2014, 10:05 PM   #21
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I did my Yugo M70 this morning.

I highly recommend this, works great and is so simple if one follows the instructions.
Came out just like the other Yugo in the pictures posted.
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Old 10-22-2014, 01:05 PM   #22
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tag -
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Old 10-22-2014, 07:19 PM   #23
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Hey thanks! Worked great. .. heres the Egyptian results if i can get the pic loaded... and it was easy and fun...
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Old 11-22-2014, 03:36 PM   #24
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Hey i did a couple vids on my experience if u need to see it first hand. Above this post is a pic of the Egyptian... these are 2 parts of the hungarian.
http://youtu.be/tgx0kfhwGug
http://youtu.be/_HLDvcOji2U
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Old 12-08-2014, 12:31 AM   #25
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Just finished the selector markings.
Came out great


Attachment 16445

Last edited by Obstreperous; 06-14-2015 at 07:11 PM.
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Old 12-08-2014, 07:55 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weaponmark View Post
This is a good question.

I'm positive it would not work on a painted surface. It should work on blue or oxide though.

However, I'm trying out something that might do the trick for painted surfaces. Its in my head right now, and when I get some free time I'll try it out.
Not all that familiar with the terms here but "blue or oxide" finish, would that be a parked finish?
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Old 12-08-2014, 08:17 PM   #27
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Quote:
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Not all that familiar with the terms here but "blue or oxide" finish, would that be a parked finish?
Oxide is bluing.

I think it would work on parkerizing as it still conducts electricity, but I'll have to try that out next time I start up the park tank.
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Old 12-28-2014, 10:19 AM   #28
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Would it work on an SGL21? Any recommendations on how to get rid of the "S" & "F" on the receiver before etching? The same would apply to my Draco and Maadi?
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Old 12-28-2014, 12:11 PM   #29
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Would it work on an SGL21? Any recommendations on how to get rid of the "S" & "F" on the receiver before etching? The same would apply to my Draco and Maadi?

It works on all of them.

The problem with replacing existing markings is it is an involved process. You would need to remove the paint, TIG weld the existing markings, file smooth, etch, and refinish. Pretty involved but a few people have done just that.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Obstreperous View Post
Just finished the selector markings.
Came out great


Attachment 16445

That looks great!

I wish more people would realize this is the cheapest way to put selector markings on their receivers, and yet at the same time, the closest to the original examples.
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Last edited by Weaponmark; 12-28-2014 at 12:24 PM.
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Old 01-19-2015, 09:49 AM   #30
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First off, thank you weaponmark for an outstanding product.

Most selector markings are too deep to do this, but arsenal's recent dot peen markings look deep since it pushes the extra material out.

On my brand new slr104ur (most people probably won't want to do this) I hand blended the original markings out with 80 grit emery, red and grey scotch bright's, prepped the area and etched. Then covered and blended the paint on the side. It is important that you take your time and learn to dust the area with paint so it doesn't look too smooth after. It's not permanent but it will work for now.


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Old 03-17-2015, 10:23 PM   #31
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I had a little time to work on my own stuff

I'd love to see some more results!








Quote:
Originally Posted by Techno View Post
First off, thank you weaponmark for an outstanding product.

Most selector markings are too deep to do this, but arsenal's recent dot peen markings look deep since it pushes the extra material out.

On my brand new slr104ur (most people probably won't want to do this) I hand blended the original markings out with 80 grit emery, red and grey scotch bright's, prepped the area and etched. Then covered and blended the paint on the side. It is important that you take your time and learn to dust the area with paint so it doesn't look too smooth after. It's not permanent but it will work for now.
This is fantastic! A daunting task that came out great.

I enjoy being able to offer something that is beneficial to everyone.
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WTB APEX PURCHASED POLISH NSP3 SCOPE MARKED AKMSL PC00053 NrL-90058. It's out there!!!


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Old 03-18-2015, 05:27 PM   #32
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Pm sent
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Old 04-19-2015, 10:09 PM   #33
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My first attempt with Weaponmark's product.
I followed instructions carefully.
It turned out Great!



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Old 07-30-2015, 07:46 PM   #34
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Anyone care to show some more pics of their work? I love seeing them!

How about those who are on the fence about trying it? Concerns?
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Old 07-30-2015, 08:07 PM   #35
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With the East German decals.

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