Up to 60% Off Daily Deal Products. Palmetto State Armory
The Ultimate Gun Belt, US Made, Lifetime Warranty, Free Shipping. Shop Now.
Gorilla Ammo Free Shipping when you order 10 Boxes or more.
Shop all the current Lone Wolf closeouts here

Go Back   The AK Files Forums > General Forums > Gunsmithing & Build It Yourself

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 06-01-2018, 09:17 AM   #456
Sadly Missing
CRUSADER
 
AKaholic #: 167102
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: PA
Posts: 343
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ybz View Post
Great and informative thread!!!

Can people in the know (Valmet, USGIgunsmith, others with experience), please comment on the technique described in this youtube video: https://youtu.be/X-CDOJF-TmY

Basically it's heating up the part, browning it with Brownells is Mark Lee's express brown to get the 'base coat', then re-heating and using the Oxpho blue paste to get the black color... seems straight forward, quick and easy, but, having been around long enough to know that somethings look easy but may be lacking... so I'm reaching out for experienced advice.

Looking to use this technique to blue a NODAK receiver.

Thanks in advance!

I'm curious about this as well.
Hopefully someone will have some knowledge of this.
__________________
co ty pierdolisz debilu jebany?
Psia krew!
Sadly Missing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-01-2018, 10:08 AM   #457
ssgtcarroll
Member
 
AKaholic #: 184872
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: York, PA
Posts: 290
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sadly Missing View Post
I'm curious about this as well.
Hopefully someone will have some knowledge of this.
See you are in PA. Get in touch.
ssgtcarroll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2018, 10:35 AM   #458
Sadly Missing
CRUSADER
 
AKaholic #: 167102
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: PA
Posts: 343
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ssgtcarroll View Post
See you are in PA. Get in touch.
Will do!

I'd like to try this but currently my free time is lacking.
I found this video, One hour rust bluing.
I wanted to try this method as it would seem to speed up the process.

Then he mentions Hydrogen embrittlement......
After a cursory googling of Hydrogen embrittlement I'm not so sure I should.
Thoughts?

Eta video....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmv58Z3RZ9c
__________________
co ty pierdolisz debilu jebany?
Psia krew!
Sadly Missing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-02-2018, 07:56 PM   #459
ssgtcarroll
Member
 
AKaholic #: 184872
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: York, PA
Posts: 290
Default

Interesting process.

If you are lacking time I’ll blue what ever you have. I don’t charge.
ssgtcarroll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-12-2018, 05:24 AM   #460
tnxdshooter
LEO
 
AKaholic #: 170817
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Crossville, TN
Posts: 2,348
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ssgtcarroll View Post
If you were closer I would.
Pm sent
__________________
Sent from my mind using ninja telepathy.

Tennessee Firearms Association member
NRA Life of Duty member (Law Enforcement)
Law Enforcement
tnxdshooter is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2018, 05:06 PM   #461
timhogan427
I am the one who knocks!
 
timhogan427's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 178465
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: morrow/cinci, ohio
Posts: 4,895
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sadly Missing View Post
Will do!

I'd like to try this but currently my free time is lacking.
I found this video, One hour rust bluing.
I wanted to try this method as it would seem to speed up the process.

Then he mentions Hydrogen embrittlement......
After a cursory googling of Hydrogen embrittlement I'm not so sure I should.
Thoughts?

Eta video....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmv58Z3RZ9c

some things are more text book theory than in real life. i think its more for high strength welded areas. i imagine alloy steels in firearms wouldnt be an issue anyways. its more of an aerospace thing.
timhogan427 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2018, 10:21 AM   #462
Sadly Missing
CRUSADER
 
AKaholic #: 167102
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: PA
Posts: 343
Default

Laurel mountain solution and distilled water.
Painting solution on.

I'm probably on my 6th cycle.
Parts were nice and dark after the 1st cycle.

After the boil this time when I pulled the parts out, the majority of the surface is a bright pink / red.

Not like rust red, I mean like RED.

Has anyone else experienced this?

I did not have enough time to card them last night, hopefully it will come off.

Also is it possible to get the parts to hot?
Like using an electronic stovetop with the burner in direct contact with the stainless pan and the parts laying on the bottom of the pan?
__________________
co ty pierdolisz debilu jebany?
Psia krew!
Sadly Missing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2018, 12:14 PM   #463
ssgtcarroll
Member
 
AKaholic #: 184872
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: York, PA
Posts: 290
Default

Should be fine. I always hang the parts. Card then let us know.
ssgtcarroll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2018, 03:37 PM   #464
Sadly Missing
CRUSADER
 
AKaholic #: 167102
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: PA
Posts: 343
Default

I'm worried that the heat could have adversely affected the metal?
__________________
co ty pierdolisz debilu jebany?
Psia krew!
Sadly Missing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2018, 06:24 PM   #465
Thruxton-Texas
Veteran Member
 
AKaholic #: 174649
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,794
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sadly Missing View Post
I'm worried that the heat could have adversely affected the metal?
You're not getting the steel hot enough to effect any permanent molecular changes; if all you're doing is just boiling them in water. As to "hydrogen embrittlement", again, you're not getting the steel hot enough to worry about it.

When steel is in a molten state, hydrogen is held in solution until the metal begins to solidify. It can then form bubbles in the weld puddle that can later act as stress raisers causing cracks to form. This is the reason that "low hydrogen" stick welding electrodes are used in Code Quality/high strength applications. The flux coating is a mineral composition, and the electrodes are stored in a "rod oven" at 300 degrees Fahrenheit; this keeps the moisture out of the electrodes. The most common types are 7018, 8018, and 10018; the 8 at the end tells you the composition of the flux. If you are welding 4130 or 4140 (both chrome-moly type steels), the weld zone is pre-heated to 300 degrees Fahrenheit; again to dry out any moisture before the welding process starts.
.........James.
Thruxton-Texas is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 05:22 AM   #466
timhogan427
I am the one who knocks!
 
timhogan427's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 178465
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: morrow/cinci, ohio
Posts: 4,895
Default

your overthinking it by a a wide margin. its going to be fine. dude above me explained it well. this reminds me of real doctor telling his/her patients to stay away from dr google, as it puts way too many ideas in peoples heads.
timhogan427 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 09:25 AM   #467
Sadly Missing
CRUSADER
 
AKaholic #: 167102
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: PA
Posts: 343
Default

Not worried about hydrogen issues, was concerned if its possible to actually get the receivers hot enough to effect the temper or hardness of the receiver and trunnion.

The last cycle was the 1st time I used an electric range.
The heating element is in direct contact with the pan and the parts were laying on the bottom.
I could see the elements coil pattern glowing in the bottom of the pan.

Prior to this I had been using a gas range and the pan is elevated with the heat much more evenly distributed.

Whatever caused the parts to turn pink, it was entirely different carding it off. Very little soot / black residue came off.

Before I could knock out a riveted receiver in ~30 mins, in order to get this off it took ~3 hours.

I resorted to using orange hand cleaner and a nylon SOS pad under running water.

On the plus side it turned out jet black.

Not looking forward to doing the rest of 2 kits that are currently pink.
__________________
co ty pierdolisz debilu jebany?
Psia krew!
Sadly Missing is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-17-2018, 11:15 AM   #468
ssgtcarroll
Member
 
AKaholic #: 184872
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: York, PA
Posts: 290
Default

Get a carding wheel from brownells

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...-prod6762.aspx
ssgtcarroll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2018, 03:46 PM   #469
GDP+24
Member
 
AKaholic #: 195825
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 69
Default

Had no trouble with bluing, got some brownells rust blue, tried my best to copy the C&Rsenal vid and method, along with a lot of what was posted here.

Took a wire wheel on a bench grinder to get off the coating childers ships them with

No carding brushes or anything special, degreased 4-0 steel wool for the outside, shitty harbour freight steel brushes and a dremel wire wheel for the inside, obviously the inside didnt burnish or polish up nice, but it turned dark thats all I need.

Had A LOT of trouble with the linseed and lampblack paint, mixed it, thinned it, baked it, came out goopy and mottled and with dust in it, cleaned off tried again, barrels almost look ok, receivers im just gonna scrub off and leave the outsides without. The inside im not gonna bother with, its goopy and gross, but its the insides, maybe itll help with rust.

https://imgur.com/a/eVgaLuU
https://imgur.com/a/4N6H5rY
https://imgur.com/a/aKmHNxj





Gonna be honest, i was never sure if chrome lining was worth it, always had my suspicions as compared to what a good finish would do, lemme f-ing tell you Im convinced.

GDP+24 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2018, 09:14 PM   #470
timhogan427
I am the one who knocks!
 
timhogan427's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 178465
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: morrow/cinci, ohio
Posts: 4,895
Default

usa flash chrome lining. its just a few microns.
timhogan427 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-18-2018, 09:30 PM   #471
GDP+24
Member
 
AKaholic #: 195825
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 69
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by timhogan427 View Post
usa flash chrome lining. its just a few microns.
Maybe, its AkBuilder chrome lined barrels. Its not like I didnt slop the rust blue solution all over that chrome end, i wasent careful with those ends, just held the patch on there with my thumb and turned the barrel with my other hand.

If it was going to rust it had ample solution and time to do so, never even had a hint of rust on the ends through 4 cycles.

I was surprised how dark they got so fast, i think I read somewhere steaming them leads to a darker finish faster than boiling? I dont know anything for sure, just what I read.
GDP+24 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-19-2018, 05:36 PM   #472
hdskumm
Fucking Member
 
hdskumm's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 176641
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: VA,gina
Posts: 1,582
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GDP+24 View Post
Had A LOT of trouble with the linseed and lampblack paint, mixed it, thinned it, baked it, came out goopy and mottled and with dust in it, cleaned off tried again, barrels almost look ok, receivers im just gonna scrub off and leave the outsides without. The inside im not gonna bother with, its goopy and gross, but its the insides, maybe itll help with rust.
looks way too thick. you can paint it on as thick as you want, but then remove all excess and rub it in with a rag until you can touch it and it wont come off on your fingers. I had to do mine with two coats/bakes, the first one was a little too light after baking.
hdskumm is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2018, 02:42 PM   #473
GDP+24
Member
 
AKaholic #: 195825
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 69
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by hdskumm View Post
looks way too thick. you can paint it on as thick as you want, but then remove all excess and rub it in with a rag until you can touch it and it wont come off on your fingers. I had to do mine with two coats/bakes, the first one was a little too light after baking.
Yeah, that was the problem, and I realized i was using Artists Linseed OIl, and not BLO the stuff i had was to slow drying time, so Im almost 100% i had the wrong stuff from the start, but I managed to get a good clean finish with what i had, had to kinda buff it in between with a green scrub pad each time.









Didnt re-do the barrels, didnt want to bother with it since i have the wrong oil anyways.

Turned out good though.
GDP+24 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2018, 03:21 PM   #474
timhogan427
I am the one who knocks!
 
timhogan427's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 178465
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: morrow/cinci, ohio
Posts: 4,895
Default

Nice finish
timhogan427 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2018, 07:38 PM   #475
GDP+24
Member
 
AKaholic #: 195825
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Jacksonville, Florida
Posts: 69
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by timhogan427 View Post
Nice finish
Im a victim of my own success apparently, I was trying to match the finish and in getting the color correct, its looks better than the kit because theres no sand or tool marks.





Kinda annoying, but I guess thats the problem most people would prefer!
GDP+24 is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 14 (0 members and 14 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 11:25 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
©1998-2018 The AK FIles