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Old 12-12-2017, 01:13 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by HK-91 View Post
What kind of fitting? Can you explain more?
Just from what I read. They may require some filing to fit. Probably be best to compare to the one being replaced and go off that.
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Old 12-12-2017, 03:51 PM   #37
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Mine required no fitting. The parts (including the disconnector if you want to change that to Bulgarian as well) drop right in and everything functions safely.

You can get Bulgarian FCGs from here for very cheap:: http://www.clearviewinvest.com/bulga...connector.aspx

The ones from Clearview look slightly different than the ones from K-Var and I think that’s because they are surplus rather than new production. They are beautifully machined as well, moreso than the ones from K-Var. Both the K-Var FCG parts and those from Clearview required no fitting.

One warning though, if you change out the trigger itself to the one from Clearview, rather than just the hammer and/or disconnector, you will notice a tiny bit of grittiness.

The carrier tail deformation I saw in this thread seemed completely normal but that’s not my concern. I just hate the weakest link in the rifle being a crappy cast part. Imagine the hammer breaking when you need the rifle for defense.
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Old 12-12-2017, 04:14 PM   #38
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What kind of fitting? Can you explain more?
I buy extra hammers and swap until I find the one that fits best, there is a lot of variation. This is not "needed", just my preference. There will most likely be a hammer hump that will stop the carrier from moving forward (when the hammer is held by the trigger hooks), even moreso than the usual bolt carrier hangup. This is easily reshaped with a small hand file. The discos are drop in and, once again, some look better than others so you might get a few extra.
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Old 12-12-2017, 04:42 PM   #39
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On the topic of fitting or swapping hammers: If you try one without the hammer spring (and somehow keeping the retainer pins locked in place) you might find one that is perfectly centered between the trigger hooks or one that is so far off center it can be stopped by one of the trigger hooks. This is an example of what I like to check for. Another is hook contact which I know is splitting hairs; some hammers only contact one of the trigger hooks because the associated hammer engagement surfaces are not even. This is all splitting hairs and these parts (if Bulgarian) will most likely drop in and work, just get a few extra if you are detail oriented.
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Old 12-12-2017, 05:17 PM   #40
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I picked some up from Clearview and some from kvar. History has shown me that anytime I need something and wait because it's plentiful it usually doesn't stay that way
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Old 12-12-2017, 10:15 PM   #41
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I picked some up from Clearview and some from kvar. History has shown me that anytime I need something and wait because it's plentiful it usually doesn't stay that way
LOL. True.
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Old 12-13-2017, 03:12 AM   #42
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OP, my carrier tail looked pretty similar after 2 or 300 rounds. I actually sent it back to arsenal and they replaced the carrier. The new carrier tail looks almost untouched after about another 1200 rounds. With shipping it there and getting it back, it was gone for about 2 months FWIW.
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Old 12-13-2017, 09:16 PM   #43
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OP, my carrier tail looked pretty similar after 2 or 300 rounds. I actually sent it back to arsenal and they replaced the carrier. The new carrier tail looks almost untouched after about another 1200 rounds. With shipping it there and getting it back, it was gone for about 2 months FWIW.
I appreciate the suggestion
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Old 12-14-2017, 10:59 AM   #44
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I have not had a chance to take my rifle part and look at the hammer. If I remember correctly some of these rifles came with Bulgarian fcg parts and others us. The same goes for the furniture. Is my memory serving me correct or did he's all have us made hammers?
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Old 12-15-2017, 06:33 AM   #45
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I noticed the tail of my disconnector is also rubbing into the pistol grip rivet. It's completely scraped the paint off the rivet, so I ordered some spare disconnectors as well. Anybody else having this issue?
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Old 12-15-2017, 10:44 AM   #46
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I noticed the tail of my disconnector is also rubbing into the pistol grip rivet. It's completely scraped the paint off the rivet, so I ordered some spare disconnectors as well. Anybody else having this issue?
Doubt it's a problem. Some have filed those a little.
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Old 12-15-2017, 10:52 AM   #47
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Dunno on your particular Arsenal/model. Arsenal uses a specific large cheesehead type rivet on the rear trigger guard rivet as a disconnector rebound stop or some such. IIRC.

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=259884
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Old 12-15-2017, 05:10 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by AKBLUE View Post
Dunno on your particular Arsenal/model. Arsenal uses a specific large cheesehead type rivet on the rear trigger guard rivet as a disconnector rebound stop or some such. IIRC.

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=259884
Thanks for the link!
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Old 12-15-2017, 05:12 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by scottyhipockets View Post
It appears that the disco tail is supposed to stop on that rivet. I read some posts a while back about the rivet getting beaten pretty bad and deforming. My concern was breaking a cast disco so I replaced it with the non-cast, tail-less Bulgarian semi-auto version. This swap has not created trigger slap or any problems and I have performed it on several rifles. I'm not recommending this swap, only telling my particular thoughts and reasoning.
makes sense to me.
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Old 12-15-2017, 06:25 PM   #50
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makes sense to me.
The disco swap is also harmless and easily reversed, no real drawback as far as I can tell.
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Old 12-15-2017, 08:03 PM   #51
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Disco Sucks!
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Old 12-15-2017, 11:28 PM   #52
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This thread is very informative. I'm thinking about buying a Sam7r since it seems like they're gonna be gone for awhile soon.
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Old 12-15-2017, 11:46 PM   #53
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This thread is very informative. I'm thinking about buying a Sam7r since it seems like they're gonna be gone for awhile soon.
Don't wait, do it as soon as you can. You won't regret you did.
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Old 12-16-2017, 12:26 AM   #54
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Don't wait, do it as soon as you can. You won't regret you did.
Yeah I did this same thing with the FM vepr's. I put it off and put it off then boom, they jumped to like $1500 and now you can't hardly find one anywhere.
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Old 12-16-2017, 03:07 PM   #55
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Yeah I did this same thing with the FM vepr's. I put it off and put it off then boom, they jumped to like $1500 and now you can't hardly find one anywhere.
There's one in the MP for 1150 shipped. In great condition. Unfired. Has some extra stuff added also.

http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=329082
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Old 12-30-2017, 10:31 PM   #56
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Hey everyone, I found this thread very helpful thank you. I am relatively new to AKs but not guns, I have a sam7r and followed this threads advice to switch out my hammer from the LV factory and attempted to put in the Bulgarian one linked earlier in this thread from Kvar. I found that with this installed, my bolt carrier couldn't slide forward. The top of the hammer was too rounded and didn't allow the bolt to slide on top of it. Ive looked into polishing hammers but this would require more material removal than I'd like. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Browning Hi Power View Post
Mine required no fitting. The parts (including the disconnector if you want to change that to Bulgarian as well) drop right in and everything functions safely.

You can get Bulgarian FCGs from here for very cheap:: http://www.clearviewinvest.com/bulga...connector.aspx

The ones from Clearview look slightly different than the ones from K-Var and I think that’s because they are surplus rather than new production. They are beautifully machined as well, moreso than the ones from K-Var. Both the K-Var FCG parts and those from Clearview required no fitting.

One warning though, if you change out the trigger itself to the one from Clearview, rather than just the hammer and/or disconnector, you will notice a tiny bit of grittiness.

The carrier tail deformation I saw in this thread seemed completely normal but that’s not my concern. I just hate the weakest link in the rifle being a crappy cast part. Imagine the hammer breaking when you need the rifle for defense.
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Old 12-31-2017, 12:54 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by DOS LLAMAS DIPA View Post
Hey everyone, I found this thread very helpful thank you. I am relatively new to AKs but not guns, I have a sam7r and followed this threads advice to switch out my hammer from the LV factory and attempted to put in the Bulgarian one linked earlier in this thread from Kvar. I found that with this installed, my bolt carrier couldn't slide forward. The top of the hammer was too rounded and didn't allow the bolt to slide on top of it. Ive looked into polishing hammers but this would require more material removal than I'd like. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
That's odd. I added Bulgarian hammers to 3 of my SAMs (two from K-Var and one from Clearview) with no issues. I did have the issue you encountered by trying to install unidentified European FCGs in my other AKs (the bolt carrier couldn't slide forward), but not with the Bulgarian hammers in my SAMs. I didn't have to modify anything so I wouldn't be able to give you advice on how to do anything like that. The bolt carriers slide over the Bulgarian hammers smooth with no issues at all in my rifles.
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Old 12-31-2017, 01:14 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by DOS LLAMAS DIPA View Post
Hey everyone, I found this thread very helpful thank you. I am relatively new to AKs but not guns, I have a sam7r and followed this threads advice to switch out my hammer from the LV factory and attempted to put in the Bulgarian one linked earlier in this thread from Kvar. I found that with this installed, my bolt carrier couldn't slide forward. The top of the hammer was too rounded and didn't allow the bolt to slide on top of it. Ive looked into polishing hammers but this would require more material removal than I'd like. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
Man that's a bummer. I plan on making that swap on my two sams in a couple weeks when the schedule calms down. Would be interesting if one of those hammers would work with a few of my atlantic builds that use the tapco fcg
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Old 12-31-2017, 02:23 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by DOS LLAMAS DIPA View Post
Hey everyone, I found this thread very helpful thank you. I am relatively new to AKs but not guns, I have a sam7r and followed this threads advice to switch out my hammer from the LV factory and attempted to put in the Bulgarian one linked earlier in this thread from Kvar. I found that with this installed, my bolt carrier couldn't slide forward. The top of the hammer was too rounded and didn't allow the bolt to slide on top of it. Ive looked into polishing hammers but this would require more material removal than I'd like. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
Did you test with the bolt in the carrier before testing? If not, try racking the carrier with the bolt in the carrier.
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Old 12-31-2017, 02:51 AM   #60
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^^Yeah, was about to say the only time I've had that issue with any AK is when I forget to put the bolt in the carrier (usually when fitting carrier to rails building on blanks, but I'll admit that it's happened when reassembling after cleaning once or twice lol). No reason the bolt/carrier shouldn't be able to ride over the hammer if it's being held by the trigger hooks.
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Old 12-31-2017, 11:55 AM   #61
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Where can one find Single hook Bulgarian FCG?
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Old 12-31-2017, 12:11 PM   #62
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Where can one find Single hook Bulgarian FCG?
Cut/ grind off one of the hooks on a double hook. Can also work as an over travel trigger stop.
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Old 12-31-2017, 12:27 PM   #63
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Cut/ grind off one of the hooks on a double hook. Can also work as an over travel trigger stop.
Hey Blue, will FA bulgarian hammers work on a semi auto gun? I guess I may replace the hammers.
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Old 12-31-2017, 02:05 PM   #64
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FA and SA hammers are interchangeable.
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Old 12-31-2017, 02:38 PM   #65
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My carrier tail looks the exact same as Rockytop1911's. About 750 rds threw mine. Did the exact same thing, mushroomed a bit then stopped . This is a sam7r-66 ser# in the 11xx range
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Old 12-31-2017, 02:42 PM   #66
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So these will fit the milled Sam7?
http://www.clearviewinvest.com/bulga...connector.aspx

Does it matter to have specific “milled receiver” parts like the one kvar is selling?
https://www.k-var.com/hammer-for-mil...nal-bulgaria-2
Would an AKM hammer like this work fine?
https://www.apexgunparts.com/rifles/...very-good.html
I just want to reduce further mushrooming of my Sam7.

Last edited by bigbob; 12-31-2017 at 02:49 PM.
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Old 12-31-2017, 03:02 PM   #67
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They fit in my SAM7s with no issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigbob View Post
Does it matter to have specific “milled receiver” parts like the one kvar is selling?
https://www.k-var.com/hammer-for-mil...nal-bulgaria-2
Would an AKM hammer like this work fine?
https://www.apexgunparts.com/rifles/...very-good.html
I just want to reduce further mushrooming of my Sam7.
Yes it matters to have milled receiver specific parts. They're referred to as double hook FCG parts and you need double hook parts for a milled receiver. I'm honestly not sure if a single hook hammer (AKM) would work and I personally wouldn't risk it.
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Old 12-31-2017, 06:10 PM   #68
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Originally Posted by DOS LLAMAS DIPA View Post
Hey everyone, I found this thread very helpful thank you. I am relatively new to AKs but not guns, I have a sam7r and followed this threads advice to switch out my hammer from the LV factory and attempted to put in the Bulgarian one linked earlier in this thread from Kvar. I found that with this installed, my bolt carrier couldn't slide forward. The top of the hammer was too rounded and didn't allow the bolt to slide on top of it. Ive looked into polishing hammers but this would require more material removal than I'd like. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
Hammer might need a small bevel filed into it to allow carrier to push it down & out of way. This is easy and it does not take much. It's easiest with the fcg in place: mark hammer with sharpie, push carrier with bolt forward, check contact, file, repeat until your carrier (with bolt) will push hammer down & out of way under the tension of the action spring. Do not alter the part of the hammer that contacts the carrier tail or bolt, carrier tail should contact the virgin hammer and not the bevel or the edge of the bevel, bevel should be well above this point and very minimal. No need to "polish" anywhere near what some guys do. Remember disco keeps hammer lower during live fire so a little carrier drag is ok when the hammer is held by the trigger hooks, you'll never get rid of all carrier/hammer resistance. We touched on this in post 38 and other threads.
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Old 01-24-2018, 11:08 PM   #69
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Sorry for the late reply everyone. One thing I noticed is that with the bolt carrier racked backwards is that the hammer isn't actually being held in place by the trigger hooks. Everything is in place correctly but it doesn't want to sit into those hooks. If I were able to have the hammer secured by the trigger hooks it would have enough clearance to rack forward with the Bulgarian hammer I bought from Kvar. I feel like there's something I'm overlooking. I'll look into it more this weekend.

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^^Yeah, was about to say the only time I've had that issue with any AK is when I forget to put the bolt in the carrier (usually when fitting carrier to rails building on blanks, but I'll admit that it's happened when reassembling after cleaning once or twice lol). No reason the bolt/carrier shouldn't be able to ride over the hammer if it's being held by the trigger hooks.
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Old 01-24-2018, 11:27 PM   #70
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Darwin alert..
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