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Old 04-06-2015, 10:01 PM   #351
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I did all the parts separate including the rivets . took my time assembling . Don't know if it was the right way but it turned out nice .
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Old 04-10-2015, 04:16 PM   #352
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Wow, rivets too? You have far more patience than myself.

That's going to look kickass.
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Old 04-10-2015, 08:46 PM   #353
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Quote:
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Question before I begin rust bluing a PSL receiver and components for some of you with experience/knowledge about this process:

I have the receiver, top cover and some other little parts stripped and about ready to begin the process. The trunions still have the original bluing and I am wanting to determine if it is better to rivet them onto the receiver and rust blue the receiver, etc. from there (I am assuming that the trunions will be relatively unaffected, but am not sure about this) or rust the receiver and then install the trunions?

One concern about installing first is that there will be some rust in small crevices that I will not be able to card off between the front trunion and the receiver in particular.

Anyone have any suggestions as to install first or after?

Thanks
I rust blue all parts, assemble receiver & trunnions and run the receiver for another couple cycles which takes care of any bare spots on rivets. Bake in oven to get all moisture out and oil it up. any carbon you cant card will pretty much come off with the oiling and a nylon brush if need be.
-
anything that is already hot blued may loose the "blue" tint a bit, but will match up nicely - just make sure you get those parts oil free before starting.
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Old 04-10-2015, 08:49 PM   #354
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UFGATOR - nice job on that M72. I have one just like it I will be rust bluing soon.
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Old 04-11-2015, 10:53 AM   #355
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This is what they look like completed . All came out nice .
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Old 04-12-2015, 10:01 AM   #356
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Nice Nice Nice!^^^^^


Here is that MAK-90 that was a few post back, all rusted. Put some chu wood on it. I had it blasted at the local machine shop for a twelve pack. Bought the iron brownells bluing tank. Rusted it in the bathroom. Boiled it in distilled water on the kitchen stove. I couldnt get the water to a complete rolling boil, just barely had bubbles. Used laurel mountain forge browning solution. Carded with denim. Three rusts. As ghetto as it could get. I was tired of a rusty MAK on the rack.




Before:

Last edited by dragonbat13; 04-12-2015 at 10:09 AM.
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Old 04-12-2015, 11:27 AM   #357
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Very nice . Laurel Mountain Forge is what i used . In Fla everything rusts quick so it was easy to rust . When it was done i did a baking soda hot water wash , then dried and then in a bucket of used motor oil overnight .
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Old 04-13-2015, 10:16 PM   #358
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Hey you guys are doing really nice work.
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Old 04-14-2015, 03:01 PM   #359
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Just finished a PSL build using the Laurel Mountain on everything, but the barrel assembly. Turned out very nice. Five cycles. Some Pics below:

BTW White Vinegar work quite well for bluing removal.

Rusted



Soaking in distilled water



Dry before carding



Done

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Old 05-11-2015, 01:28 PM   #360
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Ok, so everyone who keeps referring to Laurel Mountain's product, are you guys using the degreaser and browning solution?
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:33 PM   #361
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Yep. That's the one. Works fantastic.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/559...-1-2-oz-liquid
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Old 05-21-2015, 08:56 PM   #362
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Any of you guys usin PVC "bluing tanks?"
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Old 05-21-2015, 09:49 PM   #363
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No, made my tanks out of Stainless Steel. One for smaller parts and one for receivers and barrel. Material was free so i just built them .
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Old 05-21-2015, 11:24 PM   #364
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No, made my tanks out of Stainless Steel. One for smaller parts and one for receivers and barrel. Material was free so i just built them .
I've been using a section of 4" PVC with a water heater element, but if you let it develope a true boil for too long, the heater melts its way out of the PVC.

I'm considering making a tank out of some 4" steel - aluminized exhaust pipe, but not sure if that material would react negatively.

The PVC set up seems to work fine as long as it doesn't boil too long.
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Old 05-22-2015, 12:46 PM   #365
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all the chem mfg recommend mild steel or stainless tanks depending on whether you are park or bluing, as far as rust blue you still dont want to introduce metals in the water other than ms or ss. dunno if I would use alum.
For me, one of those 24" tanks from brownells or others will sit on 2 burners of a kitchen stove and work just fine. Just send the old lady out for an hour or two. She will never know.
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Old 05-23-2015, 12:17 AM   #366
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I don't think mild steel will work for rust blueing . From what i have read they need to be stainless . I have had no problems with using the SS . Try using CPVC , has a higher melting point than PVC. should be able to handle it.
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Old 05-23-2015, 10:30 AM   #367
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To clarify my post, Mild steel will work for rust bluing, however the tank itself will eventually rust, and require constant cleaning which wont happen with the SS tank.
The idea is to not introduce any minerals/metals/oils into the pure distilled or RO water which will stop the conversion of the rust on the part in the red ferric oxide state to the black/blue ferric ferrous oxide state.
Glass or ceramic coated pots will work also, as will pvc. Anything galvanized, copper, tin, pewter, brass, or alum would be a no-no.
I use a 24" SS tank that cost around $40.
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Last edited by SunSpot; 05-23-2015 at 12:10 PM.
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Old 05-24-2015, 10:39 AM   #368
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Quote:
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To clarify my post, Mild steel will work for rust bluing, however the tank itself will eventually rust, and require constant cleaning which wont happen with the SS tank.
The idea is to not introduce any minerals/metals/oils into the pure distilled or RO water which will stop the conversion of the rust on the part in the red ferric oxide state to the black/blue ferric ferrous oxide state.
Glass or ceramic coated pots will work also, as will pvc. Anything galvanized, copper, tin, pewter, brass, or alum would be a no-no.
I use a 24" SS tank that cost around $40.
Where did you find the tank?
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Old 05-24-2015, 01:50 PM   #369
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Where did you find the tank?
well appears thats what I paid for my black iron half tank, not the SS one. (oops) I got the black iron tanks from brownells - http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod24764.aspx

The SS half tanks I got from Parkerizing Products (along with accessories - baskets & lids) but not seeing the short one without the fitting now. I know I didnt pay more than $75 for it tho. http://stainlesssteelcreations.net/p...-products.html

I also have 48" SS & black iron tanks as well, with lids.
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Old 05-24-2015, 08:33 PM   #370
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I did a number of cycles (5-6) using laurel mountain and it was working great but not getting any darker. I decided to try a final step using a brine solution to maybe get it slightly darker on the final pass. Problem was the brine solution dried into little specks of salt crystals and caused the finish to form with these little black dots all over it. I've redone it now with 3 or so cycles of the laurel mountain solution to try and get it 'evened out' and it is slowly doing so.

The brine solution I made with distilled water boiled and then added salt until it failed to dissolve any longer. Then I applied it using a clean paper towel and hung the parts up to dry. What did I do wrong?
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Old 05-24-2015, 09:02 PM   #371
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Quote:
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well appears thats what I paid for my black iron half tank, not the SS one. (oops) I got the black iron tanks from brownells - http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod24764.aspx

The SS half tanks I got from Parkerizing Products (along with accessories - baskets & lids) but not seeing the short one without the fitting now. I know I didnt pay more than $75 for it tho. http://stainlesssteelcreations.net/p...-products.html

I also have 48" SS & black iron tanks as well, with lids.
I have been looking for something long enough to place a barreled reciever in to boil, for a low price.
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Old 06-14-2015, 10:19 PM   #372
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The gas tube on mine didn't come out the way I wanted the first time, so I redid it this weekend and I did 4 or 5 cycles and the last one I did when I boiled it the rust didn't convert, it stayed rusty. Anyone else have this issue?
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Old 06-16-2015, 02:44 PM   #373
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The gas tube on mine didn't come out the way I wanted the first time, so I redid it this weekend and I did 4 or 5 cycles and the last one I did when I boiled it the rust didn't convert, it stayed rusty. Anyone else have this issue?
sounds like to me your water is dirty, has oil in it or contaminated? If not just card and run it again. I change my water and thoroughly clean tank after each boil... but I also have RO water on tap.
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Old 06-16-2015, 04:14 PM   #374
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I did change the water and washed the pot. All of the cycles the rust never completely converted.
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Old 06-21-2015, 02:12 PM   #375
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I went to a restaurant supply house and bought a used, large, stainless steel, steam table pan. $20.
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Old 07-25-2015, 11:28 PM   #376
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I have been looking for something long enough to place a barreled reciever in to boil, for a low price.
I used to use a old oxygen cylinder I cut the top off on top of a turkey fryer stand fired by propane. get a whole barreled receiver in there
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Old 07-26-2015, 03:34 PM   #377
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If you are using the Laurel Mountain solution you do not have to boil it is a scold. I boil the distilled water and poor it into a ABS pipe capped on one end. Let it it scold until it cools enough to remove.
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Old 07-27-2015, 10:25 AM   #378
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If you are using the Laurel Mountain solution you do not have to boil it is a scold. I boil the distilled water and poor it into a ABS pipe capped on one end. Let it it scold until it cools enough to remove.
Scalding is true if you want to "brown" the barrel, however per Laurel Mountain's instructions, if you want to rust blue then you boil it for 10 minutes to fully complete the rust conversion to "black".
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Old 07-28-2015, 10:21 PM   #379
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Quote:
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If you are using the Laurel Mountain solution you do not have to boil it is a scold. I boil the distilled water and poor it into a ABS pipe capped on one end. Let it it scold until it cools enough to remove.
Quote:
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Scalding is true if you want to "brown" the barrel, however per Laurel Mountain's instructions, if you want to rust blue then you boil it for 10 minutes to fully complete the rust conversion to "black".
Highboy is correct. With LM, you can boil in a separate pot and dump it in a pan. I did some EG receivers like that.

Want a cheap pan specifically for a full rifle?

Go to the big box hardware store and get a galvanized piece of sheet metal in the stove section and fold it like a chinese food container.
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Old 07-29-2015, 08:24 AM   #380
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Highboy is correct. With LM, you can boil in a separate pot and dump it in a pan. I did some EG receivers like that.

Want a cheap pan specifically for a full rifle?

Go to the big box hardware store and get a galvanized piece of sheet metal in the stove section and fold it like a chinese food container.
Yes you can scald it, when I tried it in the pvc pipe trick I could never get beyond a chocolate brown color, hence the 22" tank & no boiling water transfer.
I confused the LM instructions with the Brownell's solution which requires the 5-10 min boil only, sorry about that.
Dunno If I would use any galvanized metal tho, would defeat the purpose of using distilled water - since the zinc would contaminate the part.
-
For the record, I didnt actually "read" the instructions, I had someone else read it and then tell me what it said. that way I was able to keep my man-card.
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Old 07-29-2015, 10:13 PM   #381
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Yes you can scald it, when I tried it in the pvc pipe trick I could never get beyond a chocolate brown color, hence the 22" tank & no boiling water transfer.
I confused the LM instructions with the Brownell's solution which requires the 5-10 min boil only, sorry about that.
Dunno If I would use any galvanized metal tho, would defeat the purpose of using distilled water - since the zinc would contaminate the part.
-
For the record, I didnt actually "read" the instructions, I had someone else read it and then tell me what it said. that way I was able to keep my man-card.
Lol.

I don't remember what the LM directions said, but ibprofun directions state to take 2, and my doctor told me to take 4, three times a day and pay no attention to what the bottle says.

I heard about concerns using galvanized steel, but I didn't have problems with it. I use new water every time though maybe it doesn't have time to get contaminated? I know not to use it for park, but the nice thing is if you spend the money on a nice tank, you can do both.
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Old 07-30-2015, 03:27 PM   #382
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Scalding is true if you want to "brown" the barrel, however per Laurel Mountain's instructions, if you want to rust blue then you boil it for 10 minutes to fully complete the rust conversion to "black".
Nope, per instructions for LM it is "scalding" not boiling for bleuing as well. I have done many pieces with much success using this method. I would use ABS over PVC. Seems to hold up better to heat (no warping at all).
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Old 08-13-2015, 11:55 PM   #383
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Ok, I tried this and the parts flash rusted when I took it out of the hot water. What did I do wrong?
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Old 08-14-2015, 09:52 PM   #384
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Ok, I tried this and the parts flash rusted when I took it out of the hot water. What did I do wrong?
Are you using distilled water ?

I use LM
Distilled water
S Steel pan . Boil the water , put the parts in for about 10 min .
Quickly take out and blow dry ( air compressor ) leave no water on it.
start carding . I use denim and a soft nylon brush ( tooth brush ). Of you scrub too hard or use 0000 wool too hard you can scrub the blue off .
I have done about a dozen different yugos and they all turned out nice
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Old 09-26-2015, 07:30 PM   #385
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Just finished these two Polish AK's today. Both are rust blued.




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