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Old 07-09-2018, 01:44 PM   #1
CeeKay
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Default Krink rear riveting...

So I got my stamp back, and it's about time to start slapping things together... However, upon demill of the rear receiver scrap, I took note that the four small rivets are rounded on the inside and flat on the outside...

Has anyone run their rear rivets this way? And if so, how did you do the riveting? I have the Toth jaws for the fronts, but they're not exactly going to work for the reversed rear rivets...

Thanks.
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Old 07-09-2018, 03:28 PM   #2
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Flat head swell neck rivets are sold.
They would require a different rivet set than your Toth jaws.

Or you can slightly mod the Toth jaws for the rear trunnion, mine only required notching the two middle plates and cutting a step on one side of middle plates in order to reach. Then use regular swell neck rivets and file flat if you want that look.

Two of mine I left rounded and the stocks folded fine with no interference.
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Old 07-09-2018, 03:37 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by CeeKay View Post
So I got my stamp back, and it's about time to start slapping things together... However, upon demill of the rear receiver scrap, I took note that the four small rivets are rounded on the inside and flat on the outside...

Has anyone run their rear rivets this way? And if so, how did you do the riveting? I have the Toth jaws for the fronts, but they're not exactly going to work for the reversed rear rivets...

Thanks.
You'll need to put a socket and the rivet coupling inside the receiver. This is how I did mine (see photos below).

ALSO, K-VAR do sell both long and short flat head rivets for AK74 side folding stocks.

LINK:

LONG flat head rivet: https://www.k-var.com/rivet-top-long...-folding-block

SHORT flat head rivet: https://www.k-var.com/rivet-for-rear-block




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Old 07-11-2018, 09:52 AM   #4
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You'll need to put a socket and the rivet coupling inside the receiver. This is how I did mine (see photos below).
Could you elaborate on the socket thing? Also, how do they come out on the inside with the flat head rivet? Flat on both sides then? Would filing my round-heads (akb sidefolder kit) down a bit prior to crushing make them "flat-head" rivets?

Also, the long rivet in my trunnion was round on the charging handle side and flat on the other, so that's how I'll be doing that one. Figured I'd use the Toth trigger rivet plate on my harbor freight press and just squish that one normally...

Thanks!
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Old 07-11-2018, 12:12 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by CeeKay View Post
Could you elaborate on the socket thing? Also, how do they come out on the inside with the flat head rivet? Flat on both sides then? Would filing my round-heads (akb sidefolder kit) down a bit prior to crushing make them "flat-head" rivets?

Also, the long rivet in my trunnion was round on the charging handle side and flat on the other, so that's how I'll be doing that one. Figured I'd use the Toth trigger rivet plate on my harbor freight press and just squish that one normally...

Thanks!
Three ways to make them flat on BOTH inside the trunnion and out sides of the trunnion.

1. Use a rear rivet that already has a FLAT head like the ones K-VAR sells.

2. Use the Ak-builder ROUND head rivet, flip it around so that the ROUND head is inside the receiver, put the round rivet coupling inside the receiver to hold the the rivet in place, then use a ratchet socket to securely hold the rivet coupling (the ratchet socket will prevent the trunnion ears / receiver from bending), crush the rivet from the outside using the dome forming head tool, then flip the dome tool using the flat end to flatten the rivet. (SHOWN ON THE PICTURE ABOVE, YOU CAN SEE THE RATCHET SOCKET)

3. Use the Ak- builder ROUND head rivet. Crush the rear rivets the normal way with the ROUND head outside (short rivets only). After you have all the rivets installed, insert a ratchet socket inside the trunnion to prevent the trunnion ears / receiver from bending, then use a round dowel with a FLAT end OR the back end of the dome forming rivet tool to crush the round head just enough for the top of the round rivet to flatten.

Here's a good video explaining the third option above.

Hope this helps you understand.

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Old 07-11-2018, 12:17 PM   #6
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For the rearmost scope mount rivet (and foremost rear trunnion rivet) I've used the jaws like any other short rivet. Then hit them again with a thin piece of flat steel to kinda flatten it out.
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Old 07-12-2018, 06:16 PM   #7
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Island: Have you tried all three of these methods? If so, which one came out the best looking?

I was considering cutting reliefs in the Toth jaws in order to get the rivet coupler side into the rear trunnion area and squish them just like the fronts but with the round heads on the inside and the bucking surface on the outside. However, I'm slightly worried about possibly weakening the jaws or something...

Thanks again!
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Old 07-12-2018, 10:19 PM   #8
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Island: Have you tried all three of these methods? If so, which one came out the best looking?

I was considering cutting reliefs in the Toth jaws in order to get the rivet coupler side into the rear trunnion area and squish them just like the fronts but with the round heads on the inside and the bucking surface on the outside. However, I'm slightly worried about possibly weakening the jaws or something...

Thanks again!
I have done all three meathods. IMO, I prefer the K-VAR flat head rivets because they’re already made and it’s the easiest to do. You don’t have to do the additional work to flatten the rivet head.

The reason I did the other two methods is because I have extra round head rivets laying around and it would be a waste not to use them.

The photo below is my 107CR clone that I built using the short and long flat head rivets from K-VAR. As you can see they are nice.




Last edited by islandfocus2; 07-13-2018 at 11:31 AM. Reason: grammer
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Old 07-13-2018, 10:38 AM   #9
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Well, it looks like I'll be ordering some flat-head rivets in the very near future! Thanks!
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Old 07-20-2018, 04:07 PM   #10
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how about if you file them down flat ? is that a bad idea?
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Old 07-20-2018, 06:54 PM   #11
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how about if you file them down flat ? is that a bad idea?
You can, but why the extra work when you can just purchase flat head rivets rather than dome headed rivets.
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