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Old 07-18-2017, 11:47 PM   #71
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Received my 2nd SAS12 today from Centerfire and it's got black furniture. Just filmed an unboxing and disassembly video for it.
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:41 AM   #72
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The one thing I noticed when breaking it down was some rust in areas that some may not even notice.
1st was the extractor spring pocket
2nd was the mainspring guide rod, specifically where the 2 parts are screwed together. You will need to tap out the cross pin to unscrew it. A few different examples had rust build up on the threads. All cleaned up nicely with a little elbow grease and CLP.
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Old 07-19-2017, 11:43 AM   #73
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The one thing I noticed when breaking it down was some rust in areas that some may not even notice.
1st was the extractor spring pocket
2nd was the mainspring guide rod, specifically where the 2 parts are screwed together. You will need to tap out the cross pin to unscrew it. A few different examples had rust build up on the threads. All cleaned up nicely with a little elbow grease and CLP.

Nice observation. The more we post about this shotgun with info like this, the more this gun might gain popularity. At the very least, it'll make future research easier.
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Old 07-19-2017, 12:12 PM   #74
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Received my 2nd SAS12 today from Centerfire and it's got black furniture. Just filmed an unboxing and disassembly video for it.
I wonder how many of the black ones Centerfire has, because I'm surprised they aren't selling the black ones at a different price.
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Old 07-19-2017, 02:42 PM   #75
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I drilled out the gas ports to 5/32, I have intermittent reliability with Winchester Super Speed shells now, which is a high velocity low brass round. Before drilling it would run the bolt back enough to reset the hammer but not eject with those shells. Keep in mind this firearm has had 11 rounds fired through it, hardly a break in. I will continue with high brass for a hundred rounds or so and then try the high velocity low brass again.
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Old 07-19-2017, 03:37 PM   #76
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Winchester tend to be softer and have more trouble with box magazines.

One other thing I did was wipe a little grease on the gas piston to increase fouling. I figure the fouling helped my MKA1919 so logically this should be similar.
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Old 07-19-2017, 05:07 PM   #77
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Winchester tend to be softer and have more trouble with box magazines.

One other thing I did was wipe a little grease on the gas piston to increase fouling. I figure the fouling helped my MKA1919 so logically this should be similar.

Good idea on the fouling. I'll try that.


I just put Brownell's lapping compound on the mating surfaces and receiver rails and racked the bolt back about 60 times. I did this because I discovered plenty of metal shavings in my oil that weren't there after the initial cleaning. Action is definitely a lot slicker now.
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Old 07-19-2017, 05:30 PM   #78
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Nice observation. The more we post about this shotgun with info like this, the more this gun might gain popularity. At the very least, it'll make future research easier.
Thank you!
If you are looking for any information I can provide, Be happy to provide it
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Old 07-19-2017, 05:31 PM   #79
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For what it's worth I also called Centerfire and "preordered" the 5 round mags They expect them on the 28th. $24/ea
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Old 07-19-2017, 05:37 PM   #80
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Thank you!
If you are looking for any information I can provide, Be happy to provide it
Could you get a micrometer reading of the outside of the barrel? I'm seeing variation from .848 to .855 on that measurement. The minimum to thread for Rem-Chokes is .845. I am curious to see if any of these shotguns are unable to be threaded.
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Old 07-19-2017, 06:05 PM   #81
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Could you get a micrometer reading of the outside of the barrel? I'm seeing variation from .848 to .855 on that measurement. The minimum to thread for Rem-Chokes is .845. I am curious to see if any of these shotguns are unable to be threaded.
Apologize for the delay. Go figure batteries took a dive and had to get some fresh ones.

I did the measurement multiple times on 2 examples and got a .854 on one and .852 on the other
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Old 07-19-2017, 06:17 PM   #82
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Apologize for the delay. Go figure batteries took a dive and had to get some fresh ones.

I did the measurement multiple times on 2 examples and got a .854 on one and .852 on the other
For giggles I measured an MKA1919 GEN 1 barrel as it is already threaded for Rem-Chokes. It measured .887
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Old 07-19-2017, 06:23 PM   #83
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Perfect! Thank you.

My lapping and drilling project still hasn't helped cycle low brass with any sort of consistency. But, I am shooting Winchester and as a previous member commented, the hulls are typically too soft for box fed autos. I will hopefully buy a few different brands of low brass as well as high brass loads and see what works.


Ideally I want to be able to shoot low brass with no issues. I do not care to hunt or defend myself with this shotgun. It is merely a range toy and something to take to the property to shoot raccoons, oppossum, and various cans and boxes as targets. It is also just a toy to tinker with.
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Old 07-19-2017, 06:28 PM   #84
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Perfect! Thank you.

My lapping and drilling project still hasn't helped cycle low brass with any sort of consistency. But, I am shooting Winchester and as a previous member commented, the hulls are typically too soft for box fed autos. I will hopefully buy a few different brands of low brass as well as high brass loads and see what works.


Ideally I want to be able to shoot low brass with no issues. I do not care to hunt or defend myself with this shotgun. It is merely a range toy and something to take to the property to shoot raccoons, oppossum, and various cans and boxes as targets. It is also just a toy to tinker with.
Anytime!
Are you having extractor issues? If so you can drill out that extractor spring pocket and use an AR15 ejector spring needs to be cut down a bit and pocket enlarged just a tad. Tony Rumore posted this on another forum a while back with great results.
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Old 07-19-2017, 06:30 PM   #85
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Anytime!
Are you having extractor issues? If so you can drill out that extractor spring pocket and use an AR15 ejector spring needs to be cut down a bit and pocket enlarged just a tad. Tony Rumore posted this on another forum a while back with great results.
I am having issues with having enough power to eject the round. It cycles back enough to reset the hammer, but then it shoves the spent cartridge right back into the chamber jamming up the works royally. But slugs, buckshot, and hi brass birdshot don't do that. I'm hoping with the work I've done it's only a break in issue at this point.

If it does require more work, I'll refer to Csspecs' future posts about enlarging the gas port a little bit more.
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Old 07-19-2017, 06:36 PM   #86
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I am having issues with having enough power to eject the round. It cycles back enough to reset the hammer, but then it shoves the spent cartridge right back into the chamber jamming up the works royally. But slugs, buckshot, and hi brass birdshot don't do that. I'm hoping with the work I've done it's only a break in issue at this point.

If it does require more work, I'll refer to Csspecs' future posts about enlarging the gas port a little bit more.
Understood! Doesn't help you but hopefully the info I provided will help another.
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:33 PM   #87
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Anyone with semi auto shotgun experience able to chime in on the ramifications of having one port versus two? If low brass only is what is desired, would it be worth just joining the two gas ports into one large port?

I admittedly have little experience with semi auto shotguns, this is my first foray into them.
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Old 07-19-2017, 10:33 PM   #88
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Anyone with semi auto shotgun experience able to chime in on the ramifications of having one port versus two? If low brass only is what is desired, would it be worth just joining the two gas ports into one large port?

I admittedly have little experience with semi auto shotguns, this is my first foray into them.
Gas ports need to be carefully balanced or it will open too early and basically blow up in your face.. I would not suggest increasing even 1/64th, since it would be an increase in gas volume of something like 20% percent, which will likely cause the gun to open WAY too early and injure the person holding it.

Combining the gas ports would likely result in a increase of 200-300% and could be fatal if fired.
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Old 07-19-2017, 10:58 PM   #89
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Gas ports need to be carefully balanced or it will open too early and basically blow up in your face.. I would not suggest increasing even 1/64th, since it would be an increase in gas volume of something like 20% percent, which will likely cause the gun to open WAY too early and injure the person holding it.

Combining the gas ports would likely result in a increase of 200-300% and could be fatal if fired.

If opening the gas ports won't do the trick, what's the consensus on cutting the action spring a bit?
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Old 07-19-2017, 11:03 PM   #90
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Look for burrs on the receiver, these are notorious for poor machine work. Don't do anything yet that you can't undo
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Old Yesterday, 12:30 AM   #91
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If opening the gas ports won't do the trick, what's the consensus on cutting the action spring a bit?
Opening the ports will likely do the trick.. But doing it right is important.. We are talking small fractions not 16ths, even 64ths are too big.These are only slightly under gassed so a fractional drill set does not have enough increments to get it right.. It is likely we will need to use either a wire gauge drill or a reemer to get the right size.. It is likely this is not a one size fits all solution, odds are you are going to need two or three range trips to get promo loads dialed in.. This requires caution and a little understanding.

I do think cutting action springs is unwise. The action spring is keeping the action closed long enough to vent the pressure to safe levels cutting it is right up with drilling the ports without caution.
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Old Yesterday, 02:24 AM   #92
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Opening the ports will likely do the trick.. But doing it right is important.. We are talking small fractions not 16ths, even 64ths are too big.These are only slightly under gassed so a fractional drill set does not have enough increments to get it right.. It is likely we will need to use either a wire gauge drill or a reemer to get the right size.. It is likely this is not a one size fits all solution, odds are you are going to need two or three range trips to get promo loads dialed in.. This requires caution and a little understanding.

I do think cutting action springs is unwise. The action spring is keeping the action closed long enough to vent the pressure to safe levels cutting it is right up with drilling the ports without caution.


I appreciate your wisdom here. As stated, semi auto shotguns are a whole new world to me. I'll keep my gas ports where they are at (5/32) and wait for you to get yours dialed in. In the meantime I'll keep shooting #4 high brass federal and see if that breaks things in.

I am fortunate to only need to walk 20 ft into the test range next door to try out this handy, cheap shotgun after any sort of improvement is made.

I canmot wait for sds mports to start listing parts on their webpage, it would make this type of experimentation a little less tricky.
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Old Yesterday, 07:25 AM   #93
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Seen a few people complaining about the cosmoline these are dipped in. Just hit it with a can of Break Free Powder Blast. Takes it off quick. Just apply your choice of oil to everything right after you're done. I spray everything down with CLP, let it sit for a while so the excess oil can run off, then wipe it all down with a clean dry rag.
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Old Yesterday, 07:32 PM   #94
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Default Removing Cosmoline

I like engine cleaner/degreaser followed up by some WD-40 and then rub down with a clean cloth and oil the parts that need it.
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