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Old 01-06-2018, 07:29 PM   #36
The2aPharmacist
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floivanus View Post
With that glass I doubt the irons matter much to you. My 308 vepr irons are spot on out to 200 yards, haven't shot it past that mark yet.

I'm stealing your bipod mount idea now
Feel free bud, I can provide links to products if you like.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sboone View Post
Based off how you were hitting steel with iron sights

1. You have some damn good eyes
2. That rifle really throws those rounds on target

Iím betting the rifle will shoot better than your hoping with a scope on it as your hits were pretty consistent
thanks, I hope so too.

I think it is definitely a combination of both. I have great vision in my right eye and the rifle is shooting very fast-100-150 fps over factory advertisement. It hammers those 12 inch plates at 300 for sure
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Old 01-06-2018, 09:11 PM   #37
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Yea you got to get the pod forward or the rifle will nose dive over on the bench.

I deal with that on the 26" heavy barrel 223 AK I use for long range varmint.

Find Holescreek PSL space gun slow motion video .
It's scary how much the optics and stuff move.

The thicker reciver will help with the side mount optic but there never ideal . 1 MOA is one thing but the accuracy your your going to want for long range is another.

The issue is a side mount is akin to mounting a optic 3.5" high with one ring.
Even if it's solid the amount of movement with a heavy optic really applies force on things.

I think your rifle has great potential. Not trying to put it down.
It's a challenge to get these rifles to shoot up to the barrels potential.

Again I love what you did on your build not knocking it in any way.
I love seeing guys stretch out the range and accuracy on these.

Rear bags and a pod is how I do most of my shooting .
I noted different point of impacts going from pod to front bag.
This is with a floating hand guard.

The rifle will go straight back but the barrel oscillates as the bullet hoes down it. I that's ossulation that will move the entire rifle before the bullet leaves.

I have gotten AK based rifles under 1/2" but it takes a lot of messing around with how there benched.
Dwell time on the hammer is another issue.
The weight of your rifle is a plus there.
take a average AK with optics dry fire it and if the cross hairs move on the target then your accuracy will suffer. It's about impossible to not have movement.
Playing with your hold on the rifle will make a differance more with a hammer fired rifle vs a striker fired rifle it seems.

A lot of what the AR target shooters do apply to these.

I'm working on a heavy reciver build now with a really heavy
1 1/16" barrel .
A lot of consideration is going into how I'm going to do the hand guard and or bipod mount.

If your set up dosent work great some side support could be added.

Looking forward to your range reports.
I have been looking at the Creedmore myself .
Great long range round IF the Rifle can do its part other wise if it's not a 800 yard plus usable then honestly I think other rounds are as good . I like 6mm bullets for 800 yards and under for example.
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Old 01-06-2018, 10:15 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1biggun View Post
Yea you got to get the pod forward or the rifle will nose dive over on the bench.

I deal with that on the 26" heavy barrel 223 AK I use for long range varmint.

Find Holescreek PSL space gun slow motion video .
It's scary how much the optics and stuff move.

The thicker reciver will help with the side mount optic but there never ideal . 1 MOA is one thing but the accuracy your your going to want for long range is another.

The issue is a side mount is akin to mounting a optic 3.5" high with one ring.
Even if it's solid the amount of movement with a heavy optic really applies force on things.

I think your rifle has great potential. Not trying to put it down.
It's a challenge to get these rifles to shoot up to the barrels potential.

Again I love what you did on your build not knocking it in any way.
I love seeing guys stretch out the range and accuracy on these.

Rear bags and a pod is how I do most of my shooting .
I noted different point of impacts going from pod to front bag.
This is with a floating hand guard.

The rifle will go straight back but the barrel oscillates as the bullet hoes down it. I that's ossulation that will move the entire rifle before the bullet leaves.

I have gotten AK based rifles under 1/2" but it takes a lot of messing around with how there benched.
Dwell time on the hammer is another issue.
The weight of your rifle is a plus there.
take a average AK with optics dry fire it and if the cross hairs move on the target then your accuracy will suffer. It's about impossible to not have movement.
Playing with your hold on the rifle will make a differance more with a hammer fired rifle vs a striker fired rifle it seems.

A lot of what the AR target shooters do apply to these.

I'm working on a heavy reciver build now with a really heavy
1 1/16" barrel .
A lot of consideration is going into how I'm going to do the hand guard and or bipod mount.

If your set up dosent work great some side support could be added.

Looking forward to your range reports.
I have been looking at the Creedmore myself .
Great long range round IF the Rifle can do its part other wise if it's not a 800 yard plus usable then honestly I think other rounds are as good . I like 6mm bullets for 800 yards and under for example.
I love conversations like this. You are literally pointing out everything I've been researching to build the best rifle I can.

I hope I'm not coming off defensive, I really do appreciate another set of eyes looking at my work. I will elaborate on my thoughts.

I was concerned with the hammer myself with the AK design. I need to upload how I run a rear bag. its quite ingenious (not my design another youtuber) I know there can never be no movement, but when I dry fire this rifle set up the way I shoot, it is as rock solid as I can ask from the platform-likely due to the weight as you stated.I have seen the slow motion video he posted it is funny how much movement there is. what I find more funny is how much movement there is and the rifles still hold a good zero.

I have a sub half minute 300 WM that I shoot 1k with almost weekly and I see exactly what you mean about what I want for long range because I have stopped taking my .9 MOA grendel AR because the struggle of a man sized target at that range and a 123 gr bullet gets frustrating. I always work to find a load that works great at 100 of course but it must perform out to 500 at least or I will toss the load and work up another. I'm a big user of Berger bullets. their 230 grain .308 shoots so amazing out of my WM i'll keep buying as long as they make them. As stated earlier in the thread I'm planning to use the new 150 grain sierra(.713 bc) if it shoots well in my rifle. If so 1000y boils down to like 6.5 mil of elevation lol. Its an impressive round for sure.

Barrels certainly do osculate, but this is why optimal barrel time should be factored into a load along with charge weight. accuracy is consistency, so we try to get as close to consistent as we can. A straight back recoil and well thought out load factoring barrel time should do me well. A very consistent load with a proper barrel time should (in theory) be as consistent as possible even with osculation. I also tend to use the straps of my mat to keep the bipod secured, so it's possible this may help, but it may prove a problem as well.

If I have trouble with anything, I'll be in your ear for sure. I try to absorb as much info as possible, but I am no expert for sure. Like I said, this is my thought process, feel free to point out my short-comings because a 5300 dollar rifle is useless as anything but a wall hanger if I leave any stone unturned.
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Old 01-09-2018, 01:12 PM   #39
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You have a good barrel on that rifle.
It's likely good for 1/2" MOA or better on a bolt action.
So if your not getting that then you have to look at factors that cause it.

I'd run the head space tight and only partially resize your brass of you can get away with it.

I know 1/2" groups can be done on a .040" thick reciver I have done it in 223 and 308x39.
I'm not certain a heavier recoil in rifle will shoot worse . It might that's a long barrel so if the reciver allows it to move as the bullet travels then bigger rounds might not do as well.

Finding the accuracy node is important. You want to be as close to the center of its occulating as possable. Then any ammo inconsistencies have a lesser effect.
A heavy barrel has a higher frequency of vibration and thus it moves less that's why in consistant ammo will shoot better in a stiffer barrel . The bullet leaves closer to the same point with a heavier barrel.
With perfect ammo a lighter barrel will shoot well.

It's all about the bullet leaving the barrel with it in the same spot every time and going the same speed.

I just noticed your adjustable comb on the stock.
Very nice job. I'd like that on mine.

I can shoot the 223 free recoil . That's were nothing is touching the rifle except my hand on the grip and my finger on the trigger.
It's amazing how Appling down pressure on the hand guard or dust cover affect point of impact.

On the heavier calibers I use a solid hold with down pressure.

The 260 I did shot about 3/4" MOA but it only used a Remington take off barrel with a lighter profile.
It was great to 600 yards but on prairie dogs I needed mire accuracy further out.

I have never had much luck with any optic mount that contacted the reciver. Your .060 or so reciver should help over my stuff.

My current ongoing build is also on a .060 reciever.
I have high hopes for a 6mm BRX barrel that will screw onto it.

Nothing you said offended me at all. Glad to see guys build stuff like this and try new things.
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Old 01-09-2018, 09:12 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1biggun View Post
You have a good barrel on that rifle.
It's likely good for 1/2" MOA or better on a bolt action.
So if your not getting that then you have to look at factors that cause it.

I'd run the head space tight and only partially resize your brass of you can get away with it.

I know 1/2" groups can be done on a .040" thick reciver I have done it in 223 and 308x39.
I'm not certain a heavier recoil in rifle will shoot worse . It might that's a long barrel so if the reciver allows it to move as the bullet travels then bigger rounds might not do as well.

Finding the accuracy node is important. You want to be as close to the center of its occulating as possable. Then any ammo inconsistencies have a lesser effect.
A heavy barrel has a higher frequency of vibration and thus it moves less that's why in consistant ammo will shoot better in a stiffer barrel . The bullet leaves closer to the same point with a heavier barrel.
With perfect ammo a lighter barrel will shoot well.

It's all about the bullet leaving the barrel with it in the same spot every time and going the same speed.

I just noticed your adjustable comb on the stock.
Very nice job. I'd like that on mine.

I can shoot the 223 free recoil . That's were nothing is touching the rifle except my hand on the grip and my finger on the trigger.
It's amazing how Appling down pressure on the hand guard or dust cover affect point of impact.

On the heavier calibers I use a solid hold with down pressure.

The 260 I did shot about 3/4" MOA but it only used a Remington take off barrel with a lighter profile.
It was great to 600 yards but on prairie dogs I needed mire accuracy further out.

I have never had much luck with any optic mount that contacted the reciver. Your .060 or so reciver should help over my stuff.

My current ongoing build is also on a .060 reciever.
I have high hopes for a 6mm BRX barrel that will screw onto it.

Nothing you said offended me at all. Glad to see guys build stuff like this and try new things.
the headspace is definitely tight. a box of 20 rounds all tight when cammed over by hand. Ill get a modified case so I can chase the lands.

I bought FL sizing dies so I can just barely bump the shoulder .002 or so.

I can't take credit for the adjustable comb, that is from Rhineland Arms. I do love it though. makes for a great cheek weld.

I may go ahead and get a cantilever mount ordered. even if I don't need it, this definitely won't be my only one of these custom AK's. I'm considering a .224 grendel using a standard parts kit and .040 receiver or a milled kit this year.

the threaded barrel is an awesome idea. Do you still plan to pin the barrel or just torque it tight like a galil?
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Old 01-10-2018, 10:42 AM   #41
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taking the rifle out today to shoot some groups and see if I'v fixed the issue of destroying brass on the dust cover. update later on, have a good day everyone!
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Old 01-10-2018, 02:28 PM   #42
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I glued some split vacume tubing to modified top cover to stop case damage.
Some day I'd like to find a valmet shell buffer.

I'm doing a screw in barrel on two yugo m70 based builds.
One is 1 1/6"- 16 thread that is the same as remington 700 barrels
The other is 1"-16 thread the same as Ruger and winchester m70 and also same thread as a AR10 extension.
I'll torque the barrel down on some on others I'll use a barrel nut like a savage.
I'm working on a way to sandwich my cantalever set up between the barrel and trunion face but also make it attached to the trunion so it will stay on when swapping barrels.
I have about a dozen barrels planned.
One gun will be standard length mag and the other will take a 308 mags.

I'd consider a 22 benchrest before a 22 Grendel.
I have a 6mm BRX that shoots pretty good.

If your going to run a big optic on a cantalever set up I'd get it tight against the trunion and let the barrel oscillat forward of the mount.

The current commercial copies of my original amount set up will actually flex in the sides of the RSB portion .
They will hold zero but IMO better to get the part on the barrel up tight on the trunion. I press mine on tight and pin it while under pressure. I try to make it mimic as much a part of the trunion as possable. I also lap the parts togther first so there is no stress pulling the barrel when it's pinned tight.

Looking forward to your groups.
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Old 01-10-2018, 03:58 PM   #43
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Back from the range. some strange results and some good results. we are still in the break in period, and with the issues I'm currently happy. Brass issue is fixed. no need for vacuum tubing on the dust cover, it all came out clean, though i need to give it more gas so that may change.

1. You guys were right to some degree about the bipod. I forgot to locktite the bolts that clamp the receiver, so the bipod came loose before I got to shooting the match ammo. having said that, there is more flex than I liked so I simply moved the bipod back halfway down the rail. this improved my groups.

2. I found myself somewhat shaky-probably due to coffee which I don't normally drink and it was 35 degrees out. no excuses though, lets look at the results.

ammo fired was 129gr american whitetail to get on paper, then 140 grain eld match, then 142 grain sierra matchking Nexus.

groups are posted in order after the bipod was moved back, groups before were not worth posting



running out of ammo, so 3 shot group.


groups coming down with barrel break in or quality ammo or both? I guess we will find out
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Old 01-11-2018, 12:09 PM   #44
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back to the range today to test some hand loads I worked up last night. adjusted the gas block, tightened down the bipod. should be a good day.
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Old 01-11-2018, 04:54 PM   #45
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range day was a dud. the gun did not like any of my loads. I got some wicked speeds without pressure signs, but still a bad day as fas as the groups go. time to try another bullet
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Old 01-11-2018, 09:06 PM   #46
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Try it with a front bag and see how it goes .

whats the trigger like ? what set up are you using

I have had them down pretty light but reliability suffers and you start getting bump fires .


the SMKs are showing some promise .

what speed range are you running ??? might need ot go down to catch the last accuracy node .
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Old 01-11-2018, 11:24 PM   #47
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OP nice job. How much do you have into this?
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Old 01-12-2018, 12:06 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1biggun View Post
Try it with a front bag and see how it goes .

whats the trigger like ? what set up are you using

I have had them down pretty light but reliability suffers and you start getting bump fires .


the SMKs are showing some promise .

what speed range are you running ??? might need ot go down to catch the last accuracy node .
trigger is an alg akt-ul. i'm not loving it at this point. the take up is annoying. the weight is light. without a gauge I'm guessing 2.5 lb.

I plan to buy some of the new 150 grain matchkings to see if they bring some more consistancy and their BC is amazing.

I loaded 140 hornady eld match with reloader 22 in .5 grain increments from 43.0-47.5. velocities ranged from high 2600s to just over 3050. the velocities were extremely consistent on the high end (es of 15fps) with primers just starting to flow, but not flat. the accuracy on the high end was getting tighter as well, so ill keep working with the hornady to see if they come into a node before they get too hot.

I am going to get a front bag. I like to shoot prone so I was trying to avoid it but the bipod is not cutting it. I think if I get a bag I can use the 50 hornady bullets I have to find a decent load. If not, ill pick up some matchkings. wish the store near me had them to begin with.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 17 Vive liberatum 76 View Post
OP nice job. How much do you have into this?
thanks a lot man, I appreciate it.
see page 1. I posted info on the subject of cost
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Old 01-18-2018, 10:34 PM   #49
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Default Barrel twist?

Curious what your barrel twist is?
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Old 01-21-2018, 09:08 PM   #50
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Curious what your barrel twist is?
barrel twist is 1:8
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