Up to 60% Off Daily Deal Products. Palmetto State Armory
The Ultimate Gun Belt, US Made, Lifetime Warranty, Free Shipping. Shop Now.
Gorilla Ammo Free Shipping when you order 10 Boxes or more.
Shop all the current Lone Wolf closeouts here

Go Back   The AK Files Forums > General Forums > Gunsmithing & Build It Yourself

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old 08-14-2018, 09:41 PM   #1
Cowboys1
Veteran Member
 
Cowboys1's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 188774
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Hurst, Texas
Posts: 1,926
Default Oven curing polymer?

I'm thinking about getting a WBP barreled kit and using brownells alumahyde II for the finish. My question is could a polymer stock, pistol grip and angle grip handle 300 degrees in the oven for 1 hour without causing damage or the finish to run or bubble due to the polymer getting too hot?
Cowboys1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2018, 09:58 PM   #2
Romy_G
Senior Member
 
AKaholic #: 195355
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Gun store...pillaging the Wolf and Golden Tiger
Posts: 521
Default

What?? Why would you be baking the polymer furniture?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by AdamP123 View Post
As for all the traditional douchebags that seem to think people care to read your thoughts about the nostaglia, reliability and mistique of good ol' steel and wood - we don't. We simply don't care. Go take your BP meds, Dulcolax suppository, eat a flaming turd and take a nap.
Romy_G is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2018, 10:29 PM   #3
1biggun
Curio & Relic
 
AKaholic #: 6541
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,080
Default

Don't seem like a very good idea .

the stock , grip and fore end come off in about 3 minutes .

I cant say at what point the plastic stuff starts to melt but its likely not good for it .even if it dosent .
1biggun is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2018, 10:33 PM   #4
chillypepper
Veteran Member
 
AKaholic #: 176015
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Paducah Texas
Posts: 1,291
Default

Plastic parts use plastic paint. Krylon Fusion. Prep the part same as anything else, them paint it with the stuff. It drys over night yet needs longer to fully bond. A week is good, I usually allow 2 weeks on stuff that actually care about how durable the finish ends up.

Some stories about how it won't hold mostly from people that put the parts to use the second it was dry. Never gave it a full chance to bond. I've had some very nice results when given plenty of time to fully cure properly.
__________________
AK's are the Crescent wrenches of the gun world.
chillypepper is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2018, 10:51 PM   #5
Cowboys1
Veteran Member
 
Cowboys1's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 188774
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Hurst, Texas
Posts: 1,926
Default

I'm doing a camo pattern paint job and I have to paint the furniture as well. I may just have to use krylon.
Cowboys1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2018, 10:53 PM   #6
Cowboys1
Veteran Member
 
Cowboys1's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 188774
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Hurst, Texas
Posts: 1,926
Default

I was thinking it would be able to withstand 300 degrees. The polymer handguards for example on barrels can get much hotter than that if you do a few mag dumps. Just not sure how it works with paint on it trying to cure. May do a little test on a angle grip see what happens.
Cowboys1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2018, 10:54 PM   #7
AK74NOLA
5.45x39 Master Race.
 
AKaholic #: 193147
Join Date: Jun 2017
Location: The Bayou.
Posts: 1,098
Default

You do know aluma hyde does not require baking to cure?
AK74NOLA is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2018, 10:56 PM   #8
Cowboys1
Veteran Member
 
Cowboys1's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 188774
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Hurst, Texas
Posts: 1,926
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AK74NOLA View Post
You do know aluma hyde does not require baking to cure?
No I did not know that. Will it be just as durable? I guess you just wait a few weeks? I just read up on it and see you can. So problem solved!
Cowboys1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2018, 12:06 AM   #9
1biggun
Curio & Relic
 
AKaholic #: 6541
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,080
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AK74NOLA View Post
You do know aluma hyde does not require baking to cure?
is it even made for or suitable for coating plastic / polymer? plastic flexes and all that .

generally the whole point of plastic furniture it so its dosent need to be finished and cant chip in use that and it lighter and cheap to make .
1biggun is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2018, 02:54 PM   #10
blfuller
Senior Member
 
blfuller's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 2498
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Posts: 883
Default

I believe the can states that you can accelerate cure time by exposing it to 90 degree temps. Go stick it in your car on a hot day ought to do it. Or put it in a black garbage bag and sit it out in the sun.
blfuller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2018, 04:49 PM   #11
timhogan427
I am the one who knocks!
 
timhogan427's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 178465
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: morrow/cinci, ohio
Posts: 4,596
Default

we bake cars in the paint booth at work at 160 degrees. so one could bake anything else at or near that temp and be fine.
timhogan427 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2018, 08:57 PM   #12
Cowboys1
Veteran Member
 
Cowboys1's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 188774
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Hurst, Texas
Posts: 1,926
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1biggun View Post
is it even made for or suitable for coating plastic / polymer? plastic flexes and all that .

generally the whole point of plastic furniture it so its dosent need to be finished and cant chip in use that and it lighter and cheap to make .
I plan to camo paint this rifle. I don't want to paint everything except the polymer parts. That would look horrible. I also have plans on another gun to paint in FDE. Again would have to paint the polymer.
Cowboys1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2018, 08:59 PM   #13
Akicita
Member
 
AKaholic #: 4255
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rapid City, SD, USA
Posts: 319
Default

Do your painting and then use a heat gun to flash it off(start the curing) then let it hang for the recommended amount of time....
Akicita is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2018, 09:07 PM   #14
Cowboys1
Veteran Member
 
Cowboys1's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 188774
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Hurst, Texas
Posts: 1,926
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Akicita View Post
Do your painting and then use a heat gun to flash it off(start the curing) then let it hang for the recommended amount of time....
Do you think it would be best to do my base coat first (about 3-4 coats) then let it cure. After that in a couple weeks add the other 2 colors and the camo pattern or should I do it all at once? I live in Texas. It will be 100 degrees or so for the next 3 weeks. I can hang it up on my back porch and cure it pretty quick I'm guessing.
Cowboys1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-15-2018, 09:18 PM   #15
Akicita
Member
 
AKaholic #: 4255
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rapid City, SD, USA
Posts: 319
Default

Flash it off between coats(you will see it start to dry)...wait 15 min..do the next coat...flash...etc Be very careful when you handle it. Why cant you do it separately. Just continue your camo job. Oven cure the metal parts.
Akicita is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2018, 08:27 AM   #16
blfuller
Senior Member
 
blfuller's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 2498
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Posts: 883
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1biggun View Post
is it even made for or suitable for coating plastic / polymer? plastic flexes and all that .

generally the whole point of plastic furniture it so its dosent need to be finished and cant chip in use that and it lighter and cheap to make .
Per Brownell's website...

Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - itís great on synthetic stocks.

Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Hereís the way we apply it: Warm the part and the Aluma-Hyde II to about 90 deg F.; spend a couple of minutes shaking the daylights out of the Aluma-Hyde II and apply a medium coat for good coverage. You can recoat in a few minutes but donít wait more than thirty minutes. Once Aluma-Hyde II starts curing, you must wait until itís fully cured to recoat. You can cut the cure time to approximately two days by circulating warm air (90 deg F. works fine) past the part.

Just follow the directions and you will have no problems. Just don't touch it until it is cured.
blfuller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2018, 08:34 AM   #17
def90
Curio & Relic
 
AKaholic #: 154917
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Boulder, Co
Posts: 6,053
Default

Cerakote also has a non-bake version. Remove plastic, paint the rifle with regular cerakote and bake, then paint the plastic parts with the non-bake cerakote.
def90 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2018, 07:55 PM   #18
Cowboys1
Veteran Member
 
Cowboys1's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 188774
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Hurst, Texas
Posts: 1,926
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blfuller View Post
Per Brownell's website...

Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - itís great on synthetic stocks.

Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Hereís the way we apply it: Warm the part and the Aluma-Hyde II to about 90 deg F.; spend a couple of minutes shaking the daylights out of the Aluma-Hyde II and apply a medium coat for good coverage. You can recoat in a few minutes but donít wait more than thirty minutes. Once Aluma-Hyde II starts curing, you must wait until itís fully cured to recoat. You can cut the cure time to approximately two days by circulating warm air (90 deg F. works fine) past the part.

Just follow the directions and you will have no problems. Just don't touch it until it is cured.
Thanks for the post this is the info I need. I can just hang everything up in my garage to let it cure. It will be above 90 deg throughout most of the day and I have a big shop fan I can use to circulate warm air.

This will be my first real re-finish job. The WBP barreled kit I believe I will also need to finish the inside of the receiver. About the bolt carrier, would it be ok to finish the actual carrier portion that you'll see? Not the piston, just the carrier. This wouldn't cause anything to stick or hang up would it?
Cowboys1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-16-2018, 10:52 PM   #19
blfuller
Senior Member
 
blfuller's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 2498
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Washington State
Posts: 883
Default

Just mask off the piston and you will be fine. Let it cure fully before reassembly. Make sure you leave the gas tube release lever in the open position angled at about a 45 degree angle towards the barrel
blfuller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2018, 12:34 AM   #20
Cowboys1
Veteran Member
 
Cowboys1's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 188774
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Hurst, Texas
Posts: 1,926
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blfuller View Post
Just mask off the piston and you will be fine. Let it cure fully before reassembly. Make sure you leave the gas tube release lever in the open position angled at about a 45 degree angle towards the barrel
Yeah otherwise I'd have a dry spot and that would really suck after all the work. I am kinda excited about this project. Close to a true AK build I'll ever get. I won't ever actually put together the receiver or barrel it myself. But this will be fun. Just got 1 part to make a decision about but I'll post that in the AK thread.
Cowboys1 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2018, 11:35 AM   #21
islandfocus2
Guns & Coffee
Contributor
 
islandfocus2's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 159575
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: United States, Bellingham, WA
Posts: 7,872
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cowboys1 View Post
I'm thinking about getting a WBP barreled kit and using brownells alumahyde II for the finish. My question is could a polymer stock, pistol grip and angle grip handle 300 degrees in the oven for 1 hour without causing damage or the finish to run or bubble due to the polymer getting too hot?
You don't need to bake Aluma-Hyde II to cure. See video below.

islandfocus2 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2018, 04:59 PM   #22
timhogan427
I am the one who knocks!
 
timhogan427's Avatar
 
AKaholic #: 178465
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: morrow/cinci, ohio
Posts: 4,596
Default

not sure id use a pinpoint detail airbrush for doing coloring. thats the equivalent of painting your house with a paint marker.
timhogan427 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-17-2018, 05:42 PM   #23
1biggun
Curio & Relic
 
AKaholic #: 6541
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,080
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by blfuller View Post
Per Brownell's website...

Aluma-Hyde II is formulated with a hard-curing epoxy base that contains additional, high-density pigment for a durable finish that sticks to all properly prepared aluminum and alloy surfaces, steel and plastics - itís great on synthetic stocks.

Aluma-Hyde II dries to the touch in only minutes and reaches full cure in about a week. Hereís the way we apply it: Warm the part and the Aluma-Hyde II to about 90 deg F.; spend a couple of minutes shaking the daylights out of the Aluma-Hyde II and apply a medium coat for good coverage. You can recoat in a few minutes but donít wait more than thirty minutes. Once Aluma-Hyde II starts curing, you must wait until itís fully cured to recoat. You can cut the cure time to approximately two days by circulating warm air (90 deg F. works fine) past the part.

Just follow the directions and you will have no problems. Just don't touch it until it is cured.

Thanks for that answer.
1biggun is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:01 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
©1998-2018 The AK FIles