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Old 02-20-2018, 09:00 AM   #1
Epaminondas
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Default AK Master Mount Issues (was Ta44 on an ultimak?)

My sa m 5 doesn't have a rail.

Contemplating putting a ta44 on it on an ultimak- anyone have a similar set up or have more knowledge on optics with an opinion?

Last edited by Epaminondas; 02-24-2018 at 10:27 AM. Reason: I am stupid
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Old 02-20-2018, 09:47 AM   #2
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Have you considered an AK Master Mount?


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Old 02-20-2018, 10:03 PM   #3
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The Eye relief is generous but it ain’t that generous. AK Master Mount is GTG.
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Old 02-22-2018, 10:28 AM   #4
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Yeah Ultimak's are great for red dots. Scopes and ACOGs, not so much.
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Old 02-24-2018, 10:26 AM   #5
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OK, dumb question for the files...

How do you remove a stripped screw?

1. I really should have test fit before locktighting the screws

2. I really should have checked the screws... I think I got a returned one as I got three screws not two... and one is stripped.

3. The hammer spring appears to be winded three times on each side, and is to loose. Hammer will not reset properly... the screw in that post is of course the stripped one

---

Next question - the safety does not fit with the master mount, nor does the krebs. Looks like I could remove a little material and make it fit.

Best way to cut/file down the safety?
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Old 03-25-2018, 03:08 PM   #6
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Just came across this thread. I will be glad to help troubleshoot. DM sent.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by Epaminondas View Post
My sa m 5 doesn't have a rail.

Contemplating putting a ta44 on it on an ultimak- anyone have a similar set up or have more knowledge on optics with an opinion?
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Old 04-15-2018, 09:39 PM   #7
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I use the master mount alot, on many firearms. Its a great solution but in some cases it needs some tlc. Sometimes not. The rivet patterns can be off with the back you want the mm to sit flush on the receiver, you may need to dremil or drill some material. Lots of meat to work with, pretty solid piece.

If your rail isnt flush from a rivet or something you can really mess things up so avoid that. If that happems and you wrench it on you coupd have stripped screws. Imagine the two firing pins. You are replacing these with bolts with inner threads that the little screws secure from the safety side with. If the mount isnt flush and you screw in the back or front first then the next one will be raised and the mating bolt and screw will connect at first and the tighter it gets the harder the un flush mount will pull like a prying motion. You want both to secure straight.

Use the lock washers first then if it still loosens try a drop of locktite tue weak kind not strong. Too much weak is bad too. If you do strip the hex out of the little securing screws then you can cut a notch for a small flathead and replace the screw.

My m85 would make the rail come loose so i lock tighted it, it was not an issue coming loose ever again haha. Used alot... striped the screws when removing when I sold it. A dab will do yah.

Interestingly have a master mount on my draco and its torqued on and hasnt loosened at all after hundreds of rounds.

Why this happens on some more than others I dont know.

Its still a great solution from a collectors stand point and bullpup too, can remove as needed.

I do keep the hex head wrench and locktite in my bag just in case. Im a big fan of James and the MM its been great seeing it come along over the years.

My current set up pku-2 and draco with the mm

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Old 04-16-2018, 10:24 AM   #8
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Thanks Bad-Element Co. for your input and support.

Yes, the AK Master Mount side rail back must be flat against the side of the receiver. If not, the optic mount slid onto it will then not be aligned with the bore of the rifle. I have milled recesses into the back of the side rail to fit over the rivet heads of the center support on stamped receivers or the rivet heads of the rear trunnion. I'm sure it's possible that some AK out there has a rivet head moved slightly off center as we all know AKs are all a little different.

Yes, a thread locker must be used on the threads (I like blue loctite). Yes, lock washers could be used to help resist the vibrational forces, but I don't think they work as well as a thread locker compound in this application. When I have investigated reports of "screws coming loose" on the AK Master Mount side rail, failure occurred because a thread locking mechanism was not used or used correctly. My included directions clearly state that a thread locking compound must be used. The phenomenon of screws loosening in vibrational environments is NOT uniques to firearms. The same phenomenon occurs on airplanes, vehicles, or machinery in other industries.

Good discussion guys. The AK files have served me well over the years to further my AK knowledge.

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Old 04-16-2018, 12:39 PM   #9
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Vibra-Tite

It doesn’t take as much heat as Loctite but it’s meant for dealing with vibration.
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Old 04-18-2018, 08:35 AM   #10
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Local smith fixed it.

Between young kids and work I'm lucky to get an hour or two a week to tinker in the workshop... and that is with little sleep!

Now I just need to run a few thousand rounds through it before I trust it. So far so good. Probably 300 rounds to date and working good- with a cleaning/removal of the mount. still on zero
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