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Old 08-17-2013, 07:06 PM   #16
Curio & Relic
AKaholic #: 60954
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: PA
Posts: 3,210

Originally Posted by tashunkawitko View Post
I am gonna try this method.

Do you mix the RIT dye with alcohol? I am gonna use liquid RIT dye. If so what ratio dye to alcohol? Would a Tru-oil work as a clear coat on top of the base dye and stain?

How many coats of stain do you recommend before putting on the dye?
Dye first. Stain goes over it to help punch it into the wood. I recommend 3-4 constant coats of full strength liquid RIT. Do not let it dry. Repeat, do not let it dry sopping wet in rit. Rit will crystalize. Dab it down so it doesn't haze over, then hit it with the stain. Dab that off and after drying via heater clear right over top. If you want to use an oil finish - DO NOT - repeat use my quick and dirty RED AK method. You will end up with a huge mess. You need the poly to "trap" the concoction in and on the wood. The best part is the clear picks up the remnants and as your brushing it on you will see the brush begin to pick up the 'red' into the clear.

Originally Posted by Cold_Storage View Post
Basically, use any method of getting a LIGHT red color on the bare wood. I've used RIT, and I've used Sedona Red minwax stain. The key is to keep it light. THEN start applying amber shellac. The shellac makes light red look like a dark red/orange. That will get you in the ballpark.
Listen to what he says carefully. Unless you want RED. Not reddish. Not tint, brownish - orangish red. But actual red.

This is the result.

And yes, I did the bakelite (dark brown btw) grip the SAME way.

There are nicer ways of doing this, as some members have listed. Mine is purely the quick and dirty'est way to get it done. But it DOES come out good.
Asmodeus is offline   Reply With Quote