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Old 07-16-2012, 09:46 PM   #18
AKaholic #: 162556
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Here, there...
Posts: 82

Receiver doesn't need a slot milled, the bolt guide rail needs a simple notch milled into it on the right side of the receiver. The way the auto sear works is it impinges on a flat spot on the hammer and keeps it held back with every shot, semi OR full. The top of the auto sear pokes through the small slot in the bolt rail.

When the bolt closes the small "tail" on the carrier will hit the auto sear when it's about 3mm from being fully forward. The bolt is completely locked at this point and it is safe to fire the cartridge even if the carrier is not completely forward. By hitting the sear it levers it forward, causing the connection between sear and hammer to release. The hammer falls and discharges the round.

The auto sear trips the hammer every shot whether in semi or full auto. The difference is the disconnector within the trigger; in full auto the selector is holding it back so it doesn't ever catch the hammer, while in semi auto it will catch the hammer once the auto sear disengages.

It's pretty simple when you have it in your hands to examine. I believe there are some YT videos that break it down. I doubt the placement of the sear hole would need to be very precise because theoretically you could "tune" the sear to release the hammer based on carrier position when it trips. Putting in the sear accurately would obviously be preferable.

Transferable AKs are available but have deep pockets. An 02/07 FFL/SOT is definitely cheaper!
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