View Full Version : New theory about WASR-3 jamming
I have made a few posts here remarking about the problem with my WASR-3 jamming.
I have a theory as to why.
For one thing, I don't believe the 30 rnd plastic mag it came with was really converted. Fully loaded, the rear of the cartridges are sitting to low for the bolt to hit...instead the bolt hits the cartridge about halfway up and jams it in the breech, leaving a wicked dent in the cartridge. RobArms followers are coming my way in the mail, so we will see...
This doesnt happen using Wolf or Barnaul ammo in steel cases as long as l dont use that mag. I initially believed the steel case was the issue.
But after doing more test firing, I think the problem is likely being caused by:
#1 - improper ammo
#2 -the Tapco G2 trigger
And the jamming specifically is caused by the bolt assembly not cycling properly. Instead of being pushed all the way back, it pushes somewhat back, catches the cartridge somewhere in the middle and as a result, loads it improperly.
Why?
The WASR-3 is made for 5.56mm, not .223. They are not the same thing as many people believe. 5.56 is the military version of .223 and is a bit more powerful.
Enough extra power perhaps to blow that bolt assembly back properly far enough?
Added to this, although the G2 trigger has a delightfully low trigger pull, it also allows the hammer to sit up significantly higher than a standard AK trigger. High enough for it to cause a 'catch' when it cycles, and I'd imagine this is also adding more resistance to the bolt assembly when it tries to blow back after firing.
I did some firing today with cheap brass target ammo and Wolf and Barnaul.
The cheap brass jammed up bad as mentioned before.
The Wolf and Barnaul did not.
I recall from somewhere that Wolf and Barnaul are loaded a little hotter than many american cartridges. While perhaps not as powerful as true 5.56mm, it is stronger than my cheap brass ammo.
Also, the steel casings are stronger to resist against the bolt 'biting' into them than brass is.
For example, l had Wolf fail to fire once today...but it wasnt a jam...it failed to load. I chalk that up to an irregular load, which often happens in mass produced ammo.
Scratches were visible on this cartridge, showing clearly that the bolt traveled back about halfway intead of all the way back.
I think that perhaps if I try better ammo, and proper ammo - 5.56mm and not .223 - and I change to a different trigger which would allow the hammer to sit lower, I might be alright.
Thoughts?
http://www.redstararms.com/593.htm
Correct hammer for SAR-3...probably the same for the WASR-3.
Archer47
11-14-2005, 07:15 PM
I agree with m03, many problems with the SAR-3 & WASR-3 can be solved by changing over to a Red Star FCG including their SAR-3 hammer. The SAR-3 - WASR-3 does not use a standard AK hammer.
The second fix for feeding problems is the magazine. Buy some Weiger Stg-940 mags from Inter Ordnance for the SAR-3 - WASR-3 they are priced from $15/each, $65 battle pack, or 10 mags for $120. With these two changes your WASR-3 will probably become one of your favorite AKs.
HTH
Archer47
magnus392
11-14-2005, 07:45 PM
All of the advice here is sound. If you dont' want to buy a $30 hammer you could polish the face of yours giveing it a more dramatic angle and that would help the bolt work smoother.
All of the advice here is sound. If you dont' want to buy a $30 hammer you could polish the face of yours giveing it a more dramatic angle and that would help the bolt work smoother.
l considered doing that very thing actually.
l have a dremel tool with many different options for doing it, but l would take it slowly and gradually until the 'catch' issue was improved.
lf l screw it up, l suppose l could always buy another hammer.
By a more dramatic angle, are you referring to the bit of a 'humped slope' at the top of the hammer face?
l know someone with a Bulgarian 5.56mm and he came over to do some shooting this weekend and l noticed the difference in how much lower his hammer set in the hook compared to my WASR-3.
And l got to thinking...
~~~~~~~
l own two AIM steel .223 mags that work well...most of the time...so long as l use Wolf or Barnaul. When they dont work properly, its the issue apparently of the bolt not going back far enough, and thus not loading the next round.
Judging from the responses, l seem to be correct in my observations on the hammer. Thanks for all the advice, guys!
l hope to get this problem resolved soon. l love the kalashnikov, but l prefer 5.56/.223. This was a big disappointment to have such a loading problem.
magnus392
11-14-2005, 11:41 PM
Yeah check the faces out:
Sar Hammer:
http://www.redstararms.com/sar4.jpg
regular AK-47 hammer:
http://www.redstararms.com/rsaham1.jpg
lnteresting.
Neither of those hammers are like the hammers on my WASR-3 and WASR-10, but the standard AK hammer pictured looks like the hammer on my Maadi.
Basically, the top of the hammer face on the ones you posted are definately angled back, while the hammers on my WASR's are both rounded.
Would that be what you suggested? Grind that rounded 'hump' at the top so it is more like the angled hammer on the SAR hammer?
By looking at my hammer and how it is positioned to the rear of the bolt & firing pin, that shouldnt interefere with it's ability to strike the firing pin at all.
magnus392
11-15-2005, 12:58 AM
The profile on the first hammer is what you are after:) The G2 is a little different than what is pictured, but close enough for comparisons sake;)
The profile on the first hammer is what you are after:) The G2 is a little different than what is pictured, but close enough for comparisons sake;)
l see.
Hope this works. Sounds like it will.
Looks like high school shop class from 19 years ago might pay off again. LOL
As long as l leave enough of the hammer face 'as it is', it should function properly? ln other words, what would be too much as far as removing material?
The second fix for feeding problems is the magazine. Buy some Weiger Stg-940 mags from Inter Ordnance for the SAR-3 - WASR-3 they are priced from $15/each, $65 battle pack, or 10 mags for $120. With these two changes your WASR-3 will probably become one of your favorite AKs.
HTH
Archer47
Weiger sounds german. These are the mags l obtained from AIM, which they said are german-made:
http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/MagAK223.gif
http://www.aimsurplus.com/acatalog/AK_Magazines.html
Are these the Weiger stg-940's? Their construction seems to be identical to the 10 rnd mag which came with my WASR-3.
Well, l changed the angle on that hammer to as close as l could to the SAR hammer you posted.
lt definately cycles smoother, and still functions fine.
Havent shot it yet though.
0K, fired it.
l loaded 6 rounds in both of my steel 30 rnd mags.
THe first round jammed...BUT the bolt hit the rim. lt hit a little low and jammed in the breech, but it didnt hit halfway up the cartridge.
After this, the rest fed perfectly. No more jams.
Maybe l need to grind that hammer down just a little bit more?
magnus392
11-16-2005, 05:45 PM
Glad it is working better, keep us posted and give us a range report.
Still jamming.
No idea why.
This is really pissing me off.
l thought l was on the right track here.
l have the hammer ground down so well the action feels slick as ice and it's still jamming.
The bolt is hitting the back of the rim and pushing the cartridge forward, but its jamming in the breach.
The cartridge ramp on the trunion is where it's hanging up and that is leaving a dent even in steel cased ammo.
Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt.
l cant find a pattern. Just when l think l have...WRONG!
Do l need to grind down the trunion ramp too?
WTF?
l'm about to mail this piece of junk back to CAI in a hundred pieces.
l just went through it again.
Steel case doesnt jam as often as brass...but it does jam.
Wolf jams. Barnaul jams. Remington jams. 0lympic jams. Ultramax jams. Winchester jams.
lt doesnt matter if it's FMJ, HP, or SP. lt jams.
lt jams if l fire it. lt jams if l cycle it by hand. lt jams whether l 'ride the slide' or not.
Grinding down the hammer only made a difference the first time l fired it after doing that. Now it's back to 'normal'.
So...apparently the hammer's shape doesnt make a bit of difference in the long run.
The only observation l can make at this time is it appears that the bolt is striking too high on the rear of the cartridge.
lt's hitting on the edge of the rim. l know it should be hitting lower. Much lower.
But, it jams if l hold the magazine and pull it forward, or pull it back. lt jams either way.
But sometimes it doesnt.
There is no pattern.
AK's in 223? BAD idea.
Yeah people badmouth the mini-14. My mini-14 isnt as accurate as l'd like it to be and it is prone to getting hot quickly... BUT AT LEAST IT FRICKIN' DOESNT JAM!
l feel like l'm going to explode so l better take a break from this before that WASR-3 meets a sledgehammer.
Bear in mind l havent actually fired it since yesterday, and it fired fine except for that first round jamming.
l discovered by accident a few minutes ago that it feeds fin so long as l dont pull the bolt all the way back.
ln other words, if l pull it back so the bolt clears the magazine, and then release it, it seems to load very smoothly.
l did this to a full magazine, twice, with no jams.
When an AK is fired, does the bolt go all the way back, or does it only go back far enough to clear the magazine?
KernelKrink
11-17-2005, 06:29 AM
They usually travel fully rearward, or close to it. How much up and down play in the fit between the top rails and the carrier?
They usually travel fully rearward, or close to it. How much up and down play in the fit between the top rails and the carrier?
Very little. 0verall, this rifle is very tight. The magazines sit firmly in the well with very little wiggle.
The bottom of the bolt sits low enough to contact the hump on the mag follower.
l removed the cover and spring and moved the action by hand, slow enough to observe it closely. Everything seems to be fine. The bolt contacts the rear of the cartridge right where it should, and l even considered the factor of looseness with the rails and carrier. There is hardly any. Moving the action all the way back doing this seems to make difference. l tried the method again of only pulling it back enough to clear the mag and again, no noticeable difference.
l think l'll try firing it again today before work, this time using my method of not pulling the action all the way back when initially chambering it. As l mentioned on an earlier post, the the only time it jammed while actually firing it was on my very first shot.
The only thing l can think of is the guide on the trunnion maybe being too high. However, while cycling this by hand and observing it...it also doesnt seem to be the case. lt loads fine this way.
l'm baffled.
magnus392
11-17-2005, 07:27 AM
OK, When you go to fire the gun let the mag hang unsupported, then fire it with your holding the mag and forcing it back and rearward. If there is play and the mag seats higher in the rear and doesn't jam there is a really simple fix.
OK, When you go to fire the gun let the mag hang unsupported, then fire it with your holding the mag and forcing it back and rearward. If there is play and the mag seats higher in the rear and doesn't jam there is a really simple fix.
l havent had time to fire it yet, but there is a little bit of play there.
l took the cover off and the removed the spring so l could get a good look. Forcing the mag back and rearward, it does sit up about 2 or 3 millimeters higher.
l have the impression that the bolt is contacting the cartridge ok, but for some reason the cartridge slips down, or maybe forced down by the guide ramp on the trunnion forcing the front of the cartridge up too high, and causing the jam.
~~~~~~~
>edit<
l took the risk of waking up all the neighbors (it's now 12:45 AM here) and tried the suggestion of forcing the magazine up and back. lt fired fine while doing this.
magnus392
11-18-2005, 12:26 AM
OK, sounds like you would benefit from building up the top of the mag catch just a bit. If you can weld it is easy enough to lay a few beads down and dremel to shape. If you do not want to do this you can remove the trigger guard and thin the selector stop to raise the mag. Then re-rivet it back ok. I have used both methods, I typically do the first one:)
Hmm...
l dont know how to weld, and l dont know of anyone offhand who has the equipment.
~~~~~~~
>edit<
Come to think of it, maybe my brother might know someone.
l think l figured out what the selector stop is, but l would really rather not fight with those rivets.
ln the meantime, l might have some scrap brass sheet metal l could shape to fit behind the magazine release lever.
Hmm...
~~~~~~~
>edit<
Bummer. Couldnt find any scrap brass that would fit well enough.
But... l loaded a full mag into the rifle and held the mag up and back. Then l wedged a straightened paperclip between the knob on the mag and the mag release level on the rifle.
This reduced the mag's play to about a millimeter or less.
l cycled the entire magazine. lt loaded beautifully. The only marks on the casings were only the normal scratches.
No dents! No jams!
The true test will be firing it, but l have a feeling this might be it.
Now if l could only find a welder...
l've owned a number of AK's in 7.62X39mm over the years and with the exception of my prized Maadi, all have had much more magazine wiggle than this. Maybe 5.56mm is touchy.
My brother's AK-74 was a little quirky until he put a lot of rounds through it and after that it's functioned flawlessly. l like the russian 5.45mm but ammo isnt as readily available as 5.56mm/.223 and that's why l went for this WASR-3.
Everything else on this WASR-3 is perfect. The front sight isnt canted, neither is the gas block or rear sight. Everything on it is very tight with hardly any rattle to it.
l dont like the rough looking wood on it, but if the jamming issue has finally (after over a month!) been figured out, l plan on changing that...
Thanks for all the advice & help, guys. This is a great forum.
Maybe l can finally check the accuracy on it for once?
magnus392
11-18-2005, 08:28 AM
You could probably get a local welding shop to build it up just a touch for little or nothing.
magnus392
11-18-2005, 01:33 PM
l think l found someone..
Rock on man:)
Today l fired two full 30 round clips of brass Remington .223
using the technique of tightly wedging a straightened paperclip between the mag catch and the knob on the back of the magazine.
The AK definately felt different. The action was very crisp and smooth when l charged it.
l fired off both 30 round mags with no jamming at all of any kind. There was no hanging up, and no hesitation. lt performed beautifully.
There were no dents this time on any of the casings l found, but l only found about half of them. Some had ejected onto the roof of our one-story house.
Before, even if it fired without jamming, there were often visible dents on the spent casings. Not anymore.
Looks like the problem has been isolated!
Now l need to find a welder to do this little project. l asked our mechanic and he said he might know someone. l'm waiting for him to get back to me about it.
Thanks for all the help! l really appreciate it!
Viragos
11-19-2005, 12:20 PM
Wait a minute, before you get a welder. Run a straight edge where the receiver and the selector stop mate at the back of the mag well. I had an AK74 that showed the exact same symtoms as yours and it drove me nuts, like yours. When I ran a straight edge across the receiver at the back opening of the mag well at the selector stop i noticed that when the rivets for the trigger guard and selector stop were installed the receiver was bowed about 2mm at that spot. I had the same play as yours, I used a 5/16s punch and whacked the whole mechinism up in place by hitting it where the mag catch sits on the underside of the receiver. Took a straight edge and when the receiver was straight and not bowed at the selector stop area, the rifle functioned fine. Essentially, what yuo are doing is raising up the entire mag catch assembly so the bolt can pick up a round more effectively. Try to picture someone using a trigger guard rivet jig and pounding too hard to set the rivets. Hence they drop the whole bottom of the receiver down and bow it. Dosen't usually matter much with a 47 cal, but makes a big difference with the smaller cals. I'd definately look at the bottom of the receiver first before you start adding to the mag catch as you may end up with a too tight mag.
magnus392
11-19-2005, 01:05 PM
Wait a minute, before you get a welder. Run a straight edge where the receiver and the selector stop mate at the back of the mag well. I had an AK74 that showed the exact same symtoms as yours and it drove me nuts, like yours. When I ran a straight edge across the receiver at the back opening of the mag well at the selector stop i noticed that when the rivets for the trigger guard and selector stop were installed the receiver was bowed about 2mm at that spot. I had the same play as yours, I used a 5/16s punch and whacked the whole mechinism up in place by hitting it where the mag catch sits on the underside of the receiver. Took a straight edge and when the receiver was straight and not bowed at the selector stop area, the rifle functioned fine. Essentially, what yuo are doing is raising up the entire mag catch assembly so the bolt can pick up a round more effectively. Try to picture someone using a trigger guard rivet jig and pounding too hard to set the rivets. Hence they drop the whole bottom of the receiver down and bow it. Dosen't usually matter much with a 47 cal, but makes a big difference with the smaller cals. I'd definately look at the bottom of the receiver first before you start adding to the mag catch as you may end up with a too tight mag.
That is a good idea to check, but it that isnt' it, there is no real worry about too much mag catch with the handy dandy dremel around:D
l checked it and that doesnt seem to be the case here.
Looks like l still need a welder.
That was a good idea though.
Viragos
11-19-2005, 03:35 PM
Well heck, was worth a look anyway. I guess Magnus is on the right track, that's the beauty of the sites you can count on someone to have had the same problem as you dialing in sooner or later.
magnus392
11-19-2005, 03:38 PM
Yeah....I had a 74 do the same thing;) THanks for the info on the bulged down TG I hadn't heard of that one before but can definately see it.
Fired off 100 rounds this afternoon using a paperclip to force the magazine into the proper position.
No jams.
magnus392
11-19-2005, 11:46 PM
Fired off 100 rounds this afternoon using a paperclip to force the magazine into the proper position.
No jams.
Glad I could be of service:) How accurate was she?
Solid 4.5 inch group at 100 meters once l put one of my POSP's on it and got it dialed in to where l wanted it.
Not too shabby. l think l could do better if l use some of my higher-quality ammo. Today l used both Wolf and Barnaul and their accuracy was about the same. The low trigger pull on that tapco G2 is delicious.
l usually set my front sight to zero on the 'battle sight' on the rear sight blade and that's the only setting l use. l've never fired at a target over 150 meters away with an AKM, but l do plan on having a go at it with this 5.56mm. This WASR-3 was already sighted to a point, but l made it a little more precise after about 50 rounds. l got a 6 inch group at 100 meters with the iron sights and that was improved by using a scope. 0ne of the reasons l went with the WASR-3 was because it had a scope rail on it l knew would be compatible with my small collection of POSP scopes.
l think a good test of it's accuracy would be letting my jarhead brother fire it and see what he can get. l consider myself a good shot, but l'm not as good as he is. The kid is downright deadly with his Bushmaster.
magnus392
11-20-2005, 02:00 AM
Yeah I have a Kobra for my SAR 3 but I am not too happy with the accuarcy. I had an ex-military buddy sight it in (he is a GREAT SHOT) and he said it wasn't doing to great. I shot at a sillohette at 100yards and was getting 12'' groups.
A group of about 12"@100meters like that is what my worst AKM averaged. lt was a preban mak-90 l owned briefly in the 90s. Meanwhile l had another mak-90 that was the most accurate, but the rivets kept popping out of it. :confused:
The second most accurate is my beloved Maadi. l bought a WASR-10 simply to save wear and tear on her.
My WASR-10 has the tightest and most flush magazine fit of any AKM l've ever fired. lt holds a group of about 7" to 8"@ 100 meters on average but tends to shoot a little high and to the right.
The Maadi is about the same, but it's at least dead-on and centered.
magnus392
11-20-2005, 10:58 AM
I am thinking about swapping this one off and getting a newer Wasr-3 but this has dimples and what not...I need to just buy a Wasr-3:D
Did a little more firing today.
Still not jamming so long as l keep a paperclip wedged in there.
My brother got about the same group l did with it but his were more centered on the target.
Then he showed me a nice 2" group using his Bushmaster at the same distance. He was able to get a 3.75" group out of his AK74.
Show off.
l took the paperclip out and tried it and it was jam, jam, jam.
l think it's safe to say now you were right-on in your assessment of the problem. Many thanks!
l also think l might end up buying a 74 too. l got more trigger time on it today and l loved how it shot.
magnus392
11-20-2005, 06:09 PM
I have 3 74's and love them dearly. Stock up on Ammo when you can!!! I would go Bulgarian or Polish for your 74's.
He got his 74 at a gun show earlier this year. l think it's a bulgarian model. lt came with US-made syth stock furniture and he had added a nice holographic sight to it.
Testing my WASR-3 5.56mm against his AK-74 5.45mm on some pumpkins, it looked to us that the 5.45mm actually left a more vicious wound... especially on exit.
Then l brought out my Maadi 7.62X39mm loaded with HP and showed him a real exit wound.
LOL
Update:
Finally found someone to weld some small beads across the top of the magazine release lever.
Took the time to carefully dremel it down for a nice tight fit.
The first time l tried magazines in it, my two 30-rnd steel mags fit super tight and l had to dremel a little more off for the release lever to click into the proper place.
After about 30 minutes of very gradual removal of material, l got it down to a nice average of room for both of them. 0ne fits a little bit tighter. The little 10 rnd mag that came with the rifle fits super tight now.
The bakelite AK-74 mag that came with it now fits perfectly.
Too bad it has a 5.45mm follower in it. :tongue_sm
Havent fired it yet, but the mags now have even less movement than when l used a paperclip to wedge them into the well tighter, and l cycled it three times successfully with no jamming or even a hint of denting on any cartridges.
l'll fire it again this weekend to be sure, but l have a feeling it is finally - after over a month - fixed.
What an ordeal this has been.
:skull:
magnus392
11-24-2005, 09:51 AM
If you are worried about the factory 10 round I would polish up the mag tab on it;)
l'm not worried about it, but man does it fit tight.
l couldnt help myself. l just had to shoot it and see.
Went through 30 rounds using the looser-fitting of the two steel mags.
No jamming. l averaged about a 6.5"@100m group today using 0lympic. This WASR-3 is more accurate than l expected.
Couldnt find any casings though. l think they might be somewhere in the next township. l've noticed it ejects much more powerfully now that it's operating properly.
Now l'm interested in a SAR-3 so l can use the same magazines. :D
ln about a month l'm planning on changing the furniture if KVAR or Ultimak gets more of the 0D green stock sets in stock. Both sites are currently sold out.
magnus392
11-24-2005, 06:45 PM
Good deal. They are pretty much the same thing though.
Yeah the only difference l could see was the mag dimples on the SAR series compared to the WASR series.
l'd like to thread the muzzle too so l can attach a suppressor.
AK74 style would look better on it, considering it's a type of modified 74 anyway.
Finally got my RobArm followers in the mail friday.
l installed one in the orange bakelite mag which came with the WASR-3 and it made a huge difference...loaded it up twice and fired it with no jamming.
Now that it's been modified enough to be reliable, l really like this AK. l have good days and bad days for accuracy which is the work of the shooter not the rifle, but overall l'm averaging 4" groups@100 meters with it and for what l paid for it, l'm happy with that.
l still dont like the finish on it, but that's going to change soon.
magnus392
12-12-2005, 06:20 PM
glad the followers worked out for you. I actually just hit my Wasr 10 with Duplicolor 1200 degree paint. It is great and pretty tough over the Romy park, unless you like to soak your rifles in break cleaner, LOL.. Anyway if you have a parked Romy metal ak mag around test it on that and see what you think?
Or what route are you gonna go?
l thought about just a coat of krylon or rustoleum. :laugh_sma
But there is a sizeable gun store near here which has all sorts of things like that and l was going to see what they had first.
KVAR and Ultimak still do not have the OD green stock sets in stock, but l'm liking the plum more every time l look at it anyway.
doctorcheney223
03-06-2006, 06:55 PM
..since we are in the Lent season, I have brought this thread back from the dead :wink_smal
Really I was just doing a search for Weiger mags to see if anybody has succesfully converted a Wieger for a Norinco and came upon this thread.
I have a Romy SAR3 that has no modifications except that I am only using Weiger mags. No problems at all. All rounds fired 100% without failure. I never even attempted to fire it with the modified E. German bakelite. I just looked at that thing and figured it would be problems. I didn't want to disappointment myself with the rifle.
thanks,
Ron
now... in honor of me resurrecting this thread, no meat on Fridays for 40 days or else :evil:
deerollman
03-06-2006, 07:09 PM
i tried out my bulgy mag in my wasr3 today and it was a jam-athon. my wiegers work pretty good, but not this. maybe these bulgys may have been designed for another weapon. what did you do with the paper clip/follower and what did it fix?
Before l got someone to weld a few good beads on the mag release lever, l'd put in a magazine and wedge the paperclip between the catch on the back of the mag and the gun's release lever. The idea was to force the magazine up as high as it would go and test Magnus' idea about the mag release lever being ground too low.
That was indeed the case. So long as l had a paperclip wedged in there, the gun performed fine. When l took it out, it was jamapalooza.
l've since put about 500 rounds through it with no problems using weiger mags. l've had the converted bakelite jam up a few times though. So far nothing is rattling loose, everything is still nice and tight, and l love that tapco G2 trigger.
l've also had the chance to try it out at 200 meters and it did much better than l expected. lt isnt as accurate as my brother's AK74, but for what l paid for the WASR-3, l cant complain.
KVAR synth stock and a better finish is next.
Without a doubt, when jamming occurs it is a case of the bolt hitting the rear of the cartridge too high. l've noticed when the bakelite mag jams, it's when l have it fully loaded, causing the cartridges to sit too low. lf l load no more than 20 rounds in it, it doesnt jam.
l'll just stick to weigers. lt's less of a hassle. l know they work.
All the help l received in this forum really saved my bacon.
l'm glad l signed up here.
spaz218
11-02-2007, 06:49 PM
So after 3 months...I finally got to test fire my wasr 3....Every single round jammed......
I have been worried about issues with the gun and the test fire confirmed these issues.
Every single round jammed, I was using weiger mags with wolf ammo.
And it seems to me it's one of two things.
The gun fires the round but when the slide/bolt gets pushed back, it's eithier not getting pushed back far enough the catch the cap/ end of the next round or......the round sits to low for the bolt to catch the end of the next round.
here are some pics of used rounds.....you can clearly see the scratch marks the bolt makes on the shell. Thats about where the bolt just doesn't close and jams.
What normally happens is the bolt hits the next round in the mag about midway up the shell which then causes the rifle to jam.
Sometimes the rifle will not get jammed midway on the next round and the bolt will just close withouy the next round in the chamber.
Any ideas?
I really think it's from the mag sitting to low in the rifle.
After reading this post...I think I have the same problem..
I have been following this thread and I was wondering if any one has a picture of where this paper clip was used on the rifle, Or any pictures of where the weilding should be done at?
Was the paper clip used right where the mag snaps into postion?
Anyways...If you guys have any pictures or suggentions I would be really thankful.
But all and all I really love the rifle...even thought it's pretty much in single fire mode now. I never thought it would be so loud...but theres really not much recoil.
Thank you...Pictures>>>>>
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l69/Sweetendicetea/shells003.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l69/Sweetendicetea/shells002.jpg
http://i93.photobucket.com/albums/l69/Sweetendicetea/shells001.jpg
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