Trigger reset problem, crazy shepards hook

[ar15junkie]

I'm having a problem getting the trigger to reset on it's own. When I cycle the bolt the hammer is caught on the disconnector and is not freed until I push the trigger back forward. Its built on an ace arms blank.

Next question, the shepards hook that came with this amd63 kit has a coil spring on the end. I'm not sure where to put the coil spring.

Thanks

[Packrat]

Are the arms of the hammer spring hooked over the rear of the trigger? That's what moves it forward, and it's usually enough.

See if the shepherd's crook spring fits around the trigger pin. Or save yourself trouble now and in the future and get 2 "C" clips, 1 for trigger and 1 for hammer pins.

[ar15junkie]

Are the arms of the hammer spring hooked over the rear of the trigger? That's what moves it forward, and it's usually enough.

See if the shepherd's crook spring fits around the trigger pin. Or save yourself trouble now and in the future and get 2 "C" clips, 1 for trigger and 1 for hammer pins.


No, the coil is at the other end.

http://www.hunt101.com/img/085929.jpg

Yes I do have the ends of the hammer spring wrapped around the back of the trigger.

I was looking at the whole thing and the trigger pin is a smaller diameter then the holes in the trigger and disconnector so they have a bunch of play in them. The spring on the disconnector causes the trigger to be pushed down and I think that is keeping it from resetting.. Any ideas? Are they supposed to be a reasonably tight fit?

[gtbehary]

I invested the $12.95 and purchased retainer plate from RedStar Arms. It saves a lot of grief.
I believe the coil spring on the original sheperd's hook goes on the full-auto pin that isn't used on a semi-automatic. Maybe you can cut it off and just use the strait section.
Using c-clips is a good idea. Maybe I will try it on my next build.
gtbehary

[7.62x39]

As mentioned just cut off the coil spring, it is not used in a semi-auto.

What are you using for a FCG?
It sounds like you are missing the bushing

[ar15junkie]

As mentioned just cut off the coil spring, it is not used in a semi-auto.

What are you using for a FCG?
It sounds like you are missing the bushing


I'm using the fcg that came with the kit. I don't remember seeing any bushing in the package and can't find one in the picture. Any ideas where I could pick one up? These kits are supposed to have semi auto fcg parts.

AMD 63 parts kit (http://www.centerfiresystems.com/picgalleryAMD63.html)

[Bocefus]

Centerfire is not including the little bushings and spacers for the trigger parts they include. They do for the AMD-65 kits, but not for the 63. They won't ship the missing parts either. :skull: You can get a bushing from Tapco...look under U.S manufactured parts. There should also be a little spacer that fits to the side of the disconnector, so the disconnector won't move around. You can cut to fit one of the unused full auto springs they include with the kit.

[ar15junkie]

Thanks everyone for your help..


Becefus,

You have to be freaking kidding me. The add states
"The AMD-63 7.62x39 Features: Elm wood buttstock and pistol grips, steel ventalated lower forend, and 16 1/2 inch barrel. Complete bolt, bolt carrier, receiver cover, complete recoil spring, and all semi auto fire control parts"

I called them this morning to ask about the missing parts and they told me customer service would call me back. Thanks much for the warning, I'll be prepared to give them an ear full when/if they call back.


Thanks again guys..

[Packrat]

Don't start off with an earfull--they might be more cooperative if you act decently. If they're not cooperative, then you got plenty of time to give them an earfull.

I WECSOGed the disconnector, which was the only piece in the set I had with a large hole. The same procedure could be used for the trigger and disconnector if both have the large hole: cut the end off a 7.62x51 blank. It is just about the OD to fit with a little pressure. Put the piece (now a bushing) in from the right of the trigger. Put the disconnector and spring in position and force the bushing through it, then out through the left side. Cut the excess off both ends and dress it smooth. Ream the inside of the bushing so it is loose on the pin, and countersink the left side a bit so the pin slips in easily.

It took me about 30 minutes working slowly, and you have a smooth trigger movement now. You also have a brass on steel contact. It was more fun than ranting at people.

[az_gun_nut]

Does the end of the spring with the coil on it come off a 90 degree bend? If so that coil goes over the end of the selector shaft on the inside left of the receiver. You need to pull the selector part way out and slip it over the shaft and then reinstall the selector. It's easier to do without the trigger and hammer in place.

[ar15junkie]

Does the end of the spring with the coil on it come off a 90 degree bend? If so that coil goes over the end of the selector shaft on the inside left of the receiver. You need to pull the selector part way out and slip it over the shaft and then reinstall the selector. It's easier to do without the trigger and hammer in place.


az_gun_nut,

The coil spring is on the end of the shepards crook, if you can see the picture posted above the end does bend off another direction.

Can you tell what purpose the spring around the selector serves? I did receive another coil spring in the kit that I couldn't find a home for. I had assumed it was for happy mode.

Thank you for your help..

[ar15junkie]

Don't start off with an earfull--they might be more cooperative if you act decently. If they're not cooperative, then you got plenty of time to give them an earfull.

I WECSOGed the disconnector, which was the only piece in the set I had with a large hole. The same procedure could be used for the trigger and disconnector if both have the large hole: cut the end off a 7.62x51 blank. It is just about the OD to fit with a little pressure. Put the piece (now a bushing) in from the right of the trigger. Put the disconnector and spring in position and force the bushing through it, then out through the left side. Cut the excess off both ends and dress it smooth. Ream the inside of the bushing so it is loose on the pin, and countersink the left side a bit so the pin slips in easily.

It took me about 30 minutes working slowly, and you have a smooth trigger movement now. You also have a brass on steel contact. It was more fun than ranting at people.


Don't worry I'll wait till I'm in battery to go off.

Thats strange because all of the holes in mine are oversized. I will try the homemade bushing now though. I ordered the right bushing from tapco last night but I wanted this thing ready for the weekend range trip.

I take no enjoyment in ranting, but I don't feel that centerfire sys. is doing the right thing by selling a kit with an advertised complete fire control group that is missing parts. Obviously they must be aware of this missing part if bocefus and others have already made issue of it. If they made a note on the web page that it was missing they could help people out and save the hard feelings and in addition they could offer the part at 5.99 like others and save people 9.00 in shipping making an additional sale, everybody wins. Regardless, sorry to you and bocefus for the rant.

[Packrat]

ar15junkie, someone just reported that he called and Centerfire is sending the missing parts. So what you get seems to depend on who you talk to.

[ar15junkie]

ar15junkie, someone just reported that he called and Centerfire is sending the missing parts. So what you get seems to depend on who you talk to.

Packrat..
I just finished making the bushing. Seems like its going to work out fine.

So now the disconnector does not catch the hammer at all unless I keep the trigger pulled. Is this correct? The hammer is kept by the hook built into the trigger mechanism?

Thanks

[Packrat]

When you pull the trigger, it releases the hammer. The bolt carrier comes back in recoil, thrusting hammer down. Trigger is back, so disconnector catches hammer. Bolt carrier goes forward, loading and locking, but hammer is still back. You release trigger, disconnector releases the hammer but hook (sear) catches it, ready for you to pull the trigger again.

In bumpfire, the recoil of the rifle thrusts it back, away from your rigid trigger finger, so the trigger is released. You pull the rifle forward (muscles overcoming the recoil force) and your rigid finger pulls the trigger again, so fast that it seems like FA. But it requires a pull of the trigger for each shot, so it's legal.

[muddboy]

When you pull the trigger, it releases the hammer. The bolt carrier comes back in recoil, thrusting hammer down. Trigger is back, so disconnector catches hammer. Bolt carrier goes forward, loading and locking, but hammer is still back. You release trigger, disconnector releases the hammer but hook (sear) catches it, ready for you to pull the trigger again.

In bumpfire, the recoil of the rifle thrusts it back, away from your rigid trigger finger, so the trigger is released. You pull the rifle forward (muscles overcoming the recoil force) and your rigid finger pulls the trigger again, so fast that it seems like FA. But it requires a pull of the trigger for each shot, so it's legal.

Humph bumpfire.... gets you kicked out the ranges here in SoPRC. and no, I watched it happen to someone else.

[az_gun_nut]

az_gun_nut,

The coil spring is on the end of the shepards crook, if you can see the picture posted above the end does bend off another direction.

Can you tell what purpose the spring around the selector serves? I did receive another coil spring in the kit that I couldn't find a home for. I had assumed it was for happy mode.

Thank you for your help..

That's an auto sear spring for a full auto in the picture. Not for a semi auto.

If the smaller spring is about an inch long it's for the hammer retarder on a fullauto and you don't need it.

Here's the "shepards" spring I was referring to.

http://www.public.asu.edu/~jbovenzi/images/70-00-37S.jpg

[Packrat]

The one you just posted fits around the support end of the selector and points down. (The picture is exactly the way you would see it looking into the receiver; the spring is lying along the left side of the receiver.) The trigger pin fits over the spring, then the hammer pin fits under the spring up near the end with a single turn. It's a pain to install; the MAK-90 uses a similar spring, if I remember correctly.

[az_gun_nut]

Actually I believe the trigger pin goes under the spring and the hammer pin goes over it, lastly the single looped end goes over the receiver support rivet. At least that's the way I've seen them installed.

[trikerjay]

here a few ways to intall the hooks. the last one is the one you guys are refering to. http://www.gunsnet.net/album/data/500/15750shepherds_hook_dwg.jpg

later jay

[trikerjay]

the one marked right is the way i install the romanian style hook. http://www.gunsnet.net/album/data//500/317hook.jpg

later jay

[7.62x39]

I'm using the fcg that came with the kit.


You are aware you need at least 6 US parts to legally build this rifle.
Usually the FCG is the first to go, since it counts as 3 of the 6 needed.

If you are using the original FCG, what are you using for US parts?

Receiver
gas piston
pistol grip
stock
follower
base plate
muzzle device

At least 6 of the 7 above parts must be US made if you are using the original FCG.
If you're going the follower and floor plate route, you need to replace them in every mag you own.

Some guys laugh, but is a Federal Felony otherwise.

[ar15junkie]

No muzzle device, just an perm. attached nut and all parts listed except stock got replaced. I kept the fcg because a decent replacement would cost half as much as the whole assembled rifle. No trigger slap either. The stock on the kit was to nice to replace.

[7.62x39]

No muzzle device, just an perm. attached nut.....

If it threads onto the barrel, which it does, it is a muzzle device, according to our friends at the ATF.

I personally don't care, and like most of us here, think all this crap is silly.
Also the chances of it ever even coming into question are remote.

But, I would hate to see someone who is attempting to conform to all this nonsense, get screwed over by a technicality.

[ar15junkie]

crap. Are you sure the muzzle nut is evil? I take it this comes from interpretation at the tech branch enclosed in a letter instead of on the law books where someone else could see it?

Thanks for your help, I'll get it corrected right away.

[Packrat]

It's not the NUT which is evil, it is the threads, which allow you to put a flash suppressor on. So if you have the threads, you are a criminal. If you have a prnis, you are a rapist. If you have a vigina, you are a whore. If you have a brain, you have no place in BATFE.

[7.62x39]

[QUOTE=ar15junkie]...Are you sure the muzzle nut is evil?... QUOTE]

As Packrat pointed out the nut is not a evil feature, but it is a countable part.

[6526]

potentially useful antique thread gratuitous bump