g2 trigger in psl

hello, I am new here but been a lurker for a while. I was wondering if anyone had tried the g2 trigger in your psl's, and how it felt. Also which did you use the single or double hook trigger group? My psl gets 1.5 MOA (with prvi partisan)at the moment and I blame A LOT of it on the crappy trigger. I think with a good trigger, (I can't afford the red star just yet but it is on my to buy list) it might actually do around 1 MOA.

Thanks in advance

if your going to spend $30 on g2,add $30 more for rsa.they go on sale alot at power custom

if your going to spend $30 on g2,add $30 more for rsa.they go on sale alot at power custom


Do you have a website for power customer? Is the trigger assembly called rsa?

I want to look into it.

Thanks,

Phil

Do you have a website for power customer? Is the trigger assembly called rsa?

I want to look into it.

Thanks,

Phil
http://www.powercustom.com/AKPages/parts_ak.htm

Red Star Arms Adjustable Trigger System is worth every fuggin' cent spent on it and then some. You may have to modify your safety to get sub ~2lb pull and if you don't do that, you might want to drop one side of the hammer retention spring. I currently have two stage pulling at ~4lb and it is sweet but, while we were installing it, we had it at ~2lb and it was very nice. Too bad we couldn't re assemble the weapon without modification with that pull...

In any event I can, whole heartedly, recommend the RSA trigger system...

alright, I will save for the RSA trigger instead. Thanks for the replies.

There's nothing wrong with the G2 trigger and it will work just fine in the PSL, but as the others have said, the RSA trigger is worth every nickle, especially in the PSL.

G-2 set and polish the contact points. You can get a nice clean light pull. I would not complain about the groups you are shooting now. And the single hook unless your receiver is slotted for the double hook.

hello, I am new here but been a lurker for a while. I was wondering if anyone had tried the g2 trigger in your psl's, and how it felt. Also which did you use the single or double hook trigger group? My psl gets 1.5 MOA (with prvi partisan)at the moment and I blame A LOT of it on the crappy trigger. I think with a good trigger, (I can't afford the red star just yet but it is on my to buy list) it might actually do around 1 MOA.

Thanks in advance

If you are truely getting 1.5 MOA from your PSL I wouldn't change a thing. You have the most accurate PSL in the world.

If you are truely getting 1.5 MOA from your PSL I wouldn't change a thing. You have the most accurate PSL in the world.
I've gotten 1 3/8" 5 shot groups at 100m with 4 rounds going under 3/4". I believe a PSL is as accurate as the ammo fed to it plus skill of the shooter. I got those with Privi Partizan factory ammo. My PSL also shoots my .308 diameter reloads under 1 1/2" at 100m. These groups were from resting on a rolled up blanket not one of the lead sleds the bench resters use. I shoot well and always have if given an accurate firearm. Not a thing inaccurate about a properly fitted PSL, IMO..................Mike

Stupid question but how hard is it to install a trigger yourself? I live in florida and cannot find anyone in ocala who will install or even touch an ak or psl. Its like if its not american we won't look at it mentality....its stupid.

It's not hard at all, the worst part is getting the shepherd's crook (the wire that holds all the pins in place) in correctly, this can be avoided simply by using a plate available from Power Custom for a couple of dollars.

You might do a search on youtube for AK trigger, someone has posted a video on how to do this, I'm sure.

I installed the G2 trigger in my PSL and the shepherd's hook was THE hardest part for me, at least removing it. Luckily, the G2 trigger kit I got from Midway USA came with a FREE locking plate that hold the trigger group pins without needing the old hook. Saved me a TON of time and hassle.

Also, take tapco's advice and ZIPTIE the trigger springs when you wrap them up before installing them. You'll see what I'm talking about if you do it and read their instructions.

If you are truely getting 1.5 MOA from your PSL I wouldn't change a thing. You have the most accurate PSL in the world.


Do you own a PSL? Almost everyone I know gets 2" groups with crappy surplus and at least 1.5 with better ammo. But then again, we know how to shoot.

It is not hard to remove & reinstall a FCG in any AK series rifle. If you hate the shepards crook wire, go with the plate on reinstall to save yourself agrivation.

Stupid question but how hard is it to install a trigger yourself? I live in florida and cannot find anyone in ocala who will install or even touch an ak or psl. Its like if its not american we won't look at it mentality....its stupid.

It is not hard to remove & reinstall a FCG in any AK series rifle. If you hate the shepards crook wire, go with the plate on reinstall to save yourself agrivation.


Nice little tool I use when changing fcg's is the paint lid opener you get from homie depot that has the triangular handle and the bent end. It works great for 90 degree angles down in the receiver where space is limited.

I installed the G2 trigger in my PSL and the shepherd's hook was THE hardest part for me, at least removing it. Luckily, the G2 trigger kit I got from Midway USA came with a FREE locking plate that hold the trigger group pins without needing the old hook. Saved me a TON of time and hassle.

Also, take tapco's advice and ZIPTIE the trigger springs when you wrap them up before installing them. You'll see what I'm talking about if you do it and read their instructions.


Best darned idea out there, if you don't zip-tie and one of the hammer spring legs come off while your fingers are in there, it is going to leave a mark guarantied, can you say mouse trap :uhoh_smal .

Best darned idea out there, if you don't zip-tie and one of the hammer spring legs come off while your fingers are in there, it is going to leave a mark guarantied, can you say mouse trap :uhoh_smal .

There is an easier way. All you do is bring the hammer spring "feet" up over the hammer face over the two sides of the hammer head. Then cross the "feet" so they hold each other in place.

Set the hammer in place, push in the cross pin. And then simply flick the top foot off the edge of the hammer and it will snap into position. Then do the same with the other.

No zip tie required.


Honestly - I'm sure I'll get some comments about this... but I would rather have the original trigger group than a G2 setup in the PSL. :flame suit on: Bare with me a moment though. It's worst attributes are really it's best qualities if you look at it carefully. It's gritty, rough, and vague. This is because of extra material and rough surfaces. But... mine also had good disconnector contact just before it broke. In out of the box condition this made it seem worse because the contact points were rough, and it got real gritty and heavy then broke. After a simple polishing job on all parts that contact each other, I was able to add a little more disconnector interference. But, with it smooth, and a slight change in angle on the nose of the disconnector. It sets up like a 2 stage. Where you ramp up to the disco contact point, you feel it tighten up, and then it breaks at any increase in pressure.

Yeah it still has a fair amount of slack, and over travel, but it sets up way better than any of the G2 sets I have in my other rifles. They all break light and clean, have better take up, and over travel, but no disconnector contact to work with to set them up how you want as they break. They break where they break and without 3x the work it took me to 'fix' the original, I couldn't replicate what I did.

I have no experience with the RSA trigger group - so I cannot comment on that. This was the rifle I was going to try it in, but I was happy with the results after some light work to the original FCG that I did not see the need for one yet.

^That`s actually along what I was thinking, worth a try anyway. The stock trigger does have a 2-stage feel, but like you said rough as heck. I like reaching that solid point of contact, just need to smooth it up some.

It was surprisingly easy. I had an actual stone wheel on the tool for probably 5 minutes total out of the whole procedure. Everything else I used the composite wheel that is a sort of rubbery plastic that resembles the grain of stone but is not. I spent an hour maybe on it.

I used a stone on the disconnector foot to get it to lean forward a hair more after I reshaped the nose of it slightly. (To create more contact after I inadvertently removed some reshaping it, and taking the rough out of the metal) I got it so close on the first try I was able to use just the polishing wheel to set up the break by using the shape of the disco nose from that point forward.

I even cold blued everything when I was done and it still only took me an hour.


Like I said there are ups and downs to both options. But in a rifle like this the way it sets up on the disconnector then breaks is far more important to me than the slack or over travel. Plus you don't have to modify safety levers or hammer springs... and possibly have some of the other problems with screws coming out etc.

But I like military triggers. Not out of box usually, but with some TLC, yes. I also realize not all may be blessed with as easy of a job as I was... I just was surprised at how easy it cleaned up and thought I would share.
:wink_smal

Thanks for the info Asmodeus. Hopefully I`ll get it done & test it out before the range closes for winter.

There is an easier way. All you do is bring the hammer spring "feet" up over the hammer face over the two sides of the hammer head. Then cross the "feet" so they hold each other in place.

Set the hammer in place, push in the cross pin. And then simply flick the top foot off the edge of the hammer and it will snap into position. Then do the same with the other.

No zip tie required.



:confused:

The springs will still try to pop off. I about flattened my finger trying this several times. The coiled section of spring around the axis hole would flare out and cause them to pop off. I still highly recommend the ziptie. You can fumble around with it all you want and they won't come off. Cheap insurance. My 2 cents.


but I would rather have the original trigger group than a G2 setup in the PSL


:huh_small

:rolleyes:

Trust me. I'm not surprised you don't understand what I'm talking about with the factory FCG if you can't even put a hammer in with the springs tucked together.

Everybody has a different method of working on AK's. FCG removal/reinstallation is one that anybody can tackle, but sometimes get piled upon by the springs wanting to go their way first. I use G2 DH FCG on most of my builds with a copy of RSA's plate made of Titanium to hold the FCG in place. After Twisting in the Hammer w/ spring attached, dropping in the disconnector/ trigger unit; the custom made plate locks everything in place by installing the selector lever in place & dropping the hammer springs in place. I only use these plates on my own builds as selling them would infringe on RSA'S copyright. All the tools needed to remove/install the FGC is a pair of hemostats or small pliers, a punch & a small brass hammer!

Nice little tool I use when changing fcg's is the paint lid opener you get from homie depot that has the triangular handle and the bent end. It works great for 90 degree angles down in the receiver where space is limited.

will these work with the lighter saiga springs??

Classic arms is having a closeout sale on G2 triggers at the moment. As of right now, they're at the very bottom of the page.

http://classicarms.us/specials.htm

FYI: I spent some time today trying to install an RSA FCG in my latest PSL build. There were two issues:

1) The trigger hook interfered with the hammer. ie: When the trigger is pulled rearward the trigger hook doesn't move far enough forward.

2) When the RSA FGG is used with the RSA retainer the plate selector has to be rotated CCW to get it into position, as the back of the RSA disconnector is too large to allow the selector to pass CW. Unfortunately, I couldn't get the selector past the rear trunnion rivets. For more info on what I'm talking about see: http://www.akfiles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59991.

I suppose I could have introduced the trigger and selector to Mr. Dremel, but I decided to use a G2 FCG instead . . . worked like a champ, even with the retainer plate.

YMMV, when trying to use the RSA FCG in the PSL. It's a shame too, I love my RSA's in my converted Saiga S-308's . . .

Larry

well, I took my rifle to a gunsmith to polish the trigger, gonna cost me 20 bucks. I would do it but I am lazy. If it doesn't come out too well I can always buy the g2 or red star later.