bulgy ak-74 kit builders

[kernal_panic]

Who has theirs together? i intend to buy an OOW reciever in the next couple of weeks and then grab a kit from FAC.

[garybob]

I do. If you plan to use the plastic buttstock, get a Romanian rear trunion/tang.
On the OOW receiver the Bulgarian rear trunion/tang's bottom mounting hole will be right next to the safety selector. Mine wears JB weld in this area as there wasn't room for a screw. May possibly be room for a rivet head.

[garybob]

By the way. FAC's kit's are sweet. Got mine bout a year ago and it was brand spanking new. Complete with stickers and tags attached.

[kernal_panic]

i have a wirefeed welder! i could weld it up and grind it flush.


I do. If you plan to use the plastic buttstock, get a Romanian rear trunion/tang.
On the OOW receiver the Bulgarian rear trunion/tang's bottom mounting hole will be right next to the safety selector. Mine wears JB weld in this area as there wasn't room for a screw. May possibly be room for a rivet head.

[offctr]

Mine took about 4-5 hours all told to put together, a K-var bulgie kit on an OOW receiver. Tried out welding the rear trunion just to see how it worked (and crosstapped and boogered a hole so...)and it worked out really nice and I will eventually remove the screws and weld the rest and refinish.

[garybob]

Yes , you could certainly weld up/in the rear trunion. Hell, my JB is going strong.

[kernal_panic]

i was also thinking about welding in the front trunion. advantages would be:

1. i don't need a shop press and riviting kit
2. i could grind and smooth the welds it would look good although not authenic
3 look better that button head screws

cons

i could really fuxor it up.

[Packrat]

If you rivet the trunions in properly, you get the best attachment (I think; welding might be better). Screws have a lot of shear presure on them; better use hardened ones. You don't want either trunion to give way on you. I've been trying to design a jig that will allow you to do a good job of riveting the front trunion in. You've got to remove the trunion, rivet into the reeiver, then replace the barrel. That's a PITA.

I've seen people talking about headspacing an AK. You can do a good job using an unfired case (or an unfired cartridge if you don't mind handling a live round in your partially-assembled firearm). Disassemble an AK, put a case in it, and see how much play there is in the bolt. Try to match that. If it's a little tighter, your rifle will possibly be a little more accurate, but slightly less reliable. Of course, if it's too tight, it won't lock up properly, and probably won't fire. Warning--pressing a barrel OUT to re-press it is a pain. Don't ask. :D If you're careful and don't hurry, it's not a problem.

[kernal_panic]

oh man if thats what it takes for riviting the wf2000 is getting used instead!

[entrefal]

I used screws and weld on the front with screws in the rear.
For the safety I had to grind the little flange off the selector arm to clear the screw. shot it with a little paint to match and you can't tell :)
I wish this forum was here when I built mine and I would have known before hand..

Thanks for the forum Jen :notworthy