Casting for 7.62 autoloading military rifle calibers

I am looking into reloading 7.62x51 and 7.62x39 with cast projectiles.

I am needing especially for the x51 some load data with a really fast burning powder that is still workable, as i want as reduced of a load/velocity as possible but still able to cycle the action on my G3 clone. Im trying to avoid leading. Can you use projos in 7.62x51 that are not gas checked? i know you can get away with it in 7.62x39 but am unsure of 51. I plan on using an oversized projectile of about .310 or so to cut down on lead fouling. Also a faster powder and lower velocity should reduce the lead fouling as well correct?

I also plan on reloading x39 for my AK's and SKS and am in the same boat with them. I will be trying a .312 lee projectile with maybe one of the slower accurate pistol powders, lee liquid alox, no gas check, and just enogh powder to cycle the action relibly. no more. the goal is to have minimum fouling.

Also, does anyone know of a source for that correct pewter stuff with copper in it to harden my lead? Should i go for the heaviest possible projectile for especially the G3 to keep velocity down and pressures up to keep the fouling down?

You could go with paper patched and go with close to normal velocities with no fouling. You can search and find what you are looking for here:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/

I don't know of any load for any semi auto firearm in either of those calibers which will function with out a gas check.even with straight lino, you're going to have lots of leading

enough powder to cycle a weapon will melt the bejesus out of the end of the boolit :p

I don't know of any load for any semi auto firearm in either of those calibers which will function with out a gas check.even with straight lino, you're going to have lots of leading

enough powder to cycle a weapon will melt the bejesus out of the end of the boolit :p

Will the lead eventually block or clog the gas tube? That is one reason why I won't get a .22 kit for my ARs. The only thing I shoot cast from is my bolt guns.

I haven't had any problems with my AK's or SKS's..course the system is bigger and easier to clean.Alos, the alloyI use for cast rifle boolits is harder than the alloy I use for pistols.

Haven't read any negatives about 22lr's in AR's .have actually thought about buying a kit for mine.I'm ordering some 22 cal gas checks for a buddy to use in his AR...I'll have to ask him if he has actually shot cast projos in it yet.

But overall, I wouldn't hesitate in 7.62x39 or M1 carbine...

The G-3 rifling is 1 in 12. the rifle uses a recoil operated system that is designed for a certain bullet weight range at a certain velocity range. The G-3's that have a raised dimple around the firing pin hole in the bolt face have polygonal rifling which is said to lead foul more than conventional rifling. The conventional rifled G-3's should have a flat bolt face around the firing pin hole but the bolts should be interchangeable.

I thought that the issue with leading in polygonal rifling was more due to some types having a sharp transition into it, the leading being found mainly in the throat?

The Lee-Metford or Martini-Henry spring to mind.....that type of rifling is actually meant to reduce lead/copper build up.

I thought that the issue with leading in polygonal rifling was more due to some types having a sharp transition into it, the leading being found mainly in the throat?

The Lee-Metford or Martini-Henry spring to mind.....that type of rifling is actually meant to reduce lead/copper build up.

Yeah I would think that polygonal rifling is easier to clean than conventional rifling. I haven't tried cast bullets in the G-3. A lot off rifles of that caliber have faster rifling twist in America than European rifles.

Cleaning is a breeze for sure with the poly rifling. My USP has it, looks wierd but I guess HK know what they are doing.

Think the cast bullet is better suited to bolt guns personally.

Paper patch option is intresting, but the time it would take would be a real pain in the arse, .45's are bad enough to patch let alone a .30cal. If the thing tears, you're more or less screwed in the accuracy dept. plus they are pretty fragile, can't see them enjoying being picked up from a mag and slammed into battery.

The polygonal rifled G-3's aren't common. The target and sniper H&K 7.62x51 rifles have it. The original G-3 had it but armies didn't want it with armor piercing bullets so H&K offered the G-3 with conventional rifling. The original semi auto HK-41 had conventional rifling and a military finish. In 1976 H&K upgraded the finish and changed the barrel to polygonal rifling and changed the model name to HK-91. The polygonal rifling only lasted one year as American buyers wanted the closest version to the military rifles. the model's name remained Hk-91 though. I'm not sure why the bolt face is different except that it makes it easier for armorers to ID the type of barrel. The later sniper and target models did get the polygonal rifling though.

The leading is easily removed with 50/50 hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar. Would still recommend the gas checks!

Does that work really well fullauto'.....not heard of that before but I like the sound of it. I've heard that pure turps' works also?

With the 50/50 mix you suggest, does it just lift the leading off or do you have to scrub it a while.

Either way I'm gonna try that one out...thanks.

Does that work really well fullauto'.....not heard of that before but I like the sound of it. I've heard that pure turps' works also?

With the 50/50 mix you suggest, does it just lift the leading off or do you have to scrub it a while.

Either way I'm gonna try that one out...thanks.

It is funny as scrubing doesn't really do it with this stuff. It lifts the lead off. What I do is put a rubber ear plug in the chamber and fill the barrel up with it, let it set for 5 or 10 minutes, dump it out and then run a couple tight fitting patches wet with the mix down the bore. Once I get the patche started in the barrel I push it down the bore slow untill I'm satisfied it's clean. You will be amazed(at least I was) at the stuff you get out of a suposedly clean bore. I then run a couple patche with commercial bore cleaner for good measure then oil it up.

Don't know about the turp's(turpintine?) but I got some in the shop I'll give it a try next time I go shooting.

And to be clear for everybody the 50/50 mix is for 3% solution and white vinegar. You all give this stuff a try, it works. And you can mix a gallon for like 12$.;)

So would a nicely lubed gas checked projo be fine for 7.62x39 use without much gas system fouling ect..? Also, is an oversized, lubed, gas checked projo not reccomended for autoloading .308 use like in the G3? is it just too much fouling even with the gas check? I know oversizing helps fouling, along with reducing velocity, but what about powders? is faster or slower burning powders better for lead fouling? Can you get away with the lee tuble lubes in auto loading 7.62x39's without gas checks or not?

2 coats of Lee liquid Alox on a cheepy Lee .312 TL mold with an inexpensive (cast boolit forum) will ring a 200 yard gong all day long with either my SKS or any AK I own.

I wound up using AA1680 powder as 2400 wouldn't reliably cycle my SKS at max loads.

Recommend approx 25% linotype ratio...negligible ,easily cleaned fouling and leading.

Same procedure will work with 308 cal semi autos...just do a lil research.

good luck