Rust in the barrel

My brother neglected his 91/30 after firing it a few times, and now it's loaded with rust... :(

I worked on it a little bit trying to get it clean. Any good methods for removing rust?

i shot some bulgarian 1980 surp that i bought from sportsmans guide that was "non-corrosive"...it wasnt

i just bore brushed with hoppes no 9 and shot it then cleaned it right when i got home. looks like it did they day i brought it home, no pits, all the rust got cleared out

how rusty we talkin?

My step brother brought over an Izy m44 that he had laying under his bed for years. When I saw it I gave him a good cussing and then told him I would work on it. I could not see through the barrel for the rust, I thought it was a lost cause. Before giving up I decided to run a bore brush attached to a cordless drill through it a few times with solvent. I couldn't believe it but after a couple of hours I had it looking almost normal. With a little bore paste the next day it looked as good as some of my Mosin's. Removed the white house paint drippings from the stock and refinished it. Re-blued the bad spots. He was amazed when I gave it to him. I told him if he put it back under the bed that I would beat him down!:rofl_smal

Blue Wonder gun cleaner kicks ass apparently
never tried it but have heard alot about it

Sweet, thanks guys. Maybe I'll tell my brother some of this info so HE can deal with it! Haha.

Oh, and the rust isn't too extreme. He said he only fired it twice and then it was sitting in the basement for about 3 weeks, or more. You can still clearly make out the rifling, but it's pretty rough.

brutal

I had to pound the steel cleaning rod down the bore to bust through the concretion on mine when I bought the Finn captured Russian last year.
Then the steel wool and the drill press to get most of the rest out.

I vise up my rifles' barrels with wood blocks on each side (after removing the stocks), then I use a nylon brush (Don't bother with brass. It only lasts a couple uses.) and Sweetes 7.62. I run the brush through the bore about 200 times, or until it stops coming out green/blue. If your bore can be returned, this method will do it.

My brother neglected his 91/30 after firing it a few times, and now it's loaded with rust... :(

I worked on it a little bit trying to get it clean. Any good methods for removing rust?


Hi,Shizzlore



While I've not tryed this, might be just the ticket.


luck


Rust Removal

Brake Fluid
For rust removal, try automotive brake fluid. For light rust rub it on liberally with a patch, allow it to sit for a couple of minutes and wipe off. For heavily rusted items swab liberally with brake fluid and allow to sit over night. Burnish the finish with a wool pad or #0000 steel or bronze wool. Brake fluid may be damaging to some wood finishes so make sure you keep it on the metal.

Electrolysis Rust Removal
You can remove rust from metal using electrolysis, and it will not harm the bluing. The main advantage to this method is it gets all the rust in hard to reach places. You will need

A plastic container that will hold the part and electrolysis solution.
Steel rod. DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL AS THIS WILL PRODUCE HARMFUL BYPRODUCTS.
Water
Arm & Hammer Washing Soda (not baking soda. Washing soda can be found in your local grocery store with the laundry detergent. If you cannot find washing soda, pour some baking soda-sodium bicarbonate into a pan and heat it over low-medium heat. Water and carbon-dioxide will cook-off leaving washing soda-sodium carbonate. ) Another source is swimming pool "PH Increaser." which is labeled 100% sodium carbonate. [Thanks to Bob Head for this hint]
Battery charger or other high amperage power supply.
Cautions: Wear eye protection and rubber gloves when working with this solution is very alkaline and can cause irritation. The electrolysis process breaks down water into its component parts, hydrogen and oxygen, which can be explosive. Work outside or in a very well ventilated area. Be sure your battery charger/power supply is unplugged before attaching or touching the leads.

In the container, mix 1 tablespoon of washing soda for each gallon of water to make up your solution. Be sure the washing soda is thoroughly dissolved. Place a steel rod either through the part to be cleaned (use o-rings to prevent the part from touching the rod), or numerous rods around the inside of your container. Connect these rods with wire; these will be the anode. You must be sure that the part to be cleaned is not touching the rod(s). Suspend the part in the solution with steel cable or wire so that it makes a good electrical contact with the part; this will become the cathode. Connect the negative lead (black) to the part being cleaned, connect the positive (red) lead to the rod(s), then plug in the charger. You will immediately begin to see bubbles; this is hydrogen and oxygen as the water breaks down. Allow the part to "cook" for 3-4 hours. The time is dependent on the size of the part, amount of rust, and the current of the power supply. After you remove the part, immediately clean and dry it off, then coat it with a good quality gun oil or rust preventative oil.

Thanks to Roy Seifert for this tip

Roy reports that he used this process on a 1911 frame that had a lot of surface rust all throughout the inside. He set the frame upside down on wooden blocks in the electrolysis solution and placed a rod with o-rings through the magazine well. He used a 1.5 amp trickle charger and left it for about 4 hours. When finished, the frame was completely free of rust, and the bluing was intact.

Bon Ami
For light rust on stuff including mold blocks, soak with Ed's Red and then make a paste of Ed's Red and Bon Ami (see the bore paste section) and rub until rust is removed. Clean with Ed's red or whatever cleaner you like and relube. For mold blocks, degrease before using.




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Stock Finish Repair

If it is not too bad brush it out with a brass brush until you get most of the rust out. Then take it shooting, fire about 20 to 30 rounds through it. The clean it right before you put it up, here is a link that will help.

http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/corrosive/index.asp

Thanks for the info guys. I worked on cleaning it, scrubbing with a bore brush and engine degreaser and different stuff, haha, it got a good amount out. My bro took it out today and fired it, and it seemed to clear right up. It obviously wasn't THAT bad, but enough that I was a little concerned at first.