View Thread: Saiga 12 conversion


flash4353
I just want to make sure my Saiga 12 conversion is compliant. I want to add an American-made Ace skeleton stock and pistol grip and use an American-made 10 round mag (follower, floor plate and body.) Is this going to work, or do I have to also drop in the 3 part US trigger group?Thanks-Steve

Etek
You should be OK even if you have a flash-hider. If you want another U.S. part without all the hassle of replacing the FCG just use a U.S. made gas piston/Hockey Puck.

Fortis
I`m setting up to do the conversion on my Saiga12. All the info you need can be found at saiga12.com. I believe Etek is right about the parts count. As I understand it, the flash hider, as well as the pistol grip, should count for "0" as long as they are U.S. made. Check Saiga12.com just in case.

flash4353
Thanks guys-Steve

Muah'Dib
Don't see how you can convert the S-12 without replacing the FCG.

The FCG that came out of mine was nothing like the G2 that replaced it.

YEMV

Etek
Don't see how you can convert the S-12 without replacing the FCG.

The FCG that came out of mine was nothing like the G2 that replaced it.

YEMV

Depends if you move grip or utilize Russian grip. (Russian grip/stock replaces factory grip and stock and does not require moving anything). I added U.S. magazine, follower and baseplate and gas piston to gain compliance which may not in fact be legally required but I'm hedging my bets.

Muah'Dib
Depends if you move grip or utilize Russian grip. (Russian grip/stock replaces factory grip and stock and does not require moving anything). I added U.S. magazine, follower and baseplate and gas piston to gain compliance which may not in fact be legally required but I'm hedging my bets.


Yes, I understand now. I didn't realize the "Ace" product was what it is. But using the PG/folding stock doesn't actually constitute a "conversion." At least, not in the sense that the Saiga community uses the term.

I had the Izhmash combo stock and hated the feel. Spending the $250, or so, on compliance parts (Tromix DIY trigger guard, G2 FCG, Kreb's Combat Sights, Tapco T-6 and Saw grip), and an hour in front of a YouTube tutorial, is well-worth the investment.

And the AGP mags allow me to use the Izhmash flash suppressor.

I must admit... Removing the sissy-pins was a hard leap to make but once the drill started turning, all fear was gone.

Muah'Dib
Here is the video tutorial I went by. It features the 7.62x39, but the process is identical.

The series:

Intro: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z5-z7eXzWgc

Step:1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XU96VbnSoTc&feature=related

Step 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y29jraOVTHo&feature=related

Step 3: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kk78ls5AVd8&feature=related

Step 4: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o49-GsiEiQs&feature=related

Step 5: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hEpp5QEX-TU&feature=related

Final: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IPNMWmv_4y4&feature=related

Bonus:

BHO install 1: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SHxMxKgM6qM

BHO Install 2: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTJl6XANcFA&feature=related


I should mention, when I started my conversion, I had all of my parts ready to install. This includes my DIY trigger guard which comes with its own method of installation, negating my need (and experience) to retrofit the existing trigger guard hardware.


I hope this is helpful.

Fortis
Thanks Muah`Dib.

allesennogwat
I remove the bolt hold open but if you want it, the replacement hammer will have to be shortened the thickness of the bolt hold open on that end of the hammer pivot. The old hammer can be used as a guide.

allesennogwat
I grind down the rivet heads with a Dremel to remove the plate. The rear rivet is completely removed but the front rivet that ends up right over the trigger I leave in the hole and hand file it flush with bottom so I don't have a hole right above the trigger finger and looks better. I haven't had one come loose let but no big lose if it does.