What would cause bolt to be hard to open

What would cause a Mosin-Nagant 91/30 to be hard to open the bolt even when shooting the parkerized non-laquired case ammo? Is the extractor hanging up on the cartridge rim? It is a as new condition arsonal rebuild.

Thanks

Tom H.
Sharpsshooter5090

Nope it's just a Mosin-Nagant and they are all Hard To Open.

Like John said, It's a Mosin. You may want to inspect your chamber with a bore light and clean the piss out of it. I know I'm still getting cosmoline and crud out of my mosins after several cleanings. before I buy a mosin I've gotten into the habit of keeping an empty case with me and asking the seller if I can chamber the empty case. Some cycle better than others, I did this on my M-91 before I purchased it, 3 before that failed the test.;)

With respects to my colleagues above, they're not all hard to open. It's usually the ammo you're shooting that causes the problems. I have sticky bolts with all mine when I shoot that copper washed Hungarian stuff, but with Bulgarian brass-cased or Russian steel-cased ammo they cycle like you'd expect them to. The brass-cased stuff is like butter. I cycle the action with the rifle shouldered. Just did it yesterday with a Romanian M44.

Some say that Mosin Nagants more than most rifles suffer with rough chambers which can catch on the case when the explosion pushes it our against the chamber walls.

rifle, sharp...:

I would think it is old cosmoline with the rough breech.
The standard answer is to clean breech with a 20 gauge
brush attached to a power drill. really clean that thing up when you get it.

Mosin Nagant not cater to girly men!

Mosin Nagant meant for hulking Bear Man!

Mosin Nagant is like hammer! Hit hard! Can take much punishment! Defend Homeland!

If it is easy to open when it's cocked and hard to open when its uncocked then its the camming surface between the cocking piece and the rear of the bolt. I had that issue with my 91/30 and polished it really nice and now it opens a lot easier. I also grease my Mosin bolts which makes them easier to work than with oil.

take the bolt apart. identify the notch where the striker is retained on cock. round the edge leading to the ramp. I've seen a lot of these "arsenal rebuilds" (hahhahahahahahahahaahh - euphemism for "electro-pencil match all of our misc crap for those gullible Americans") where the notch was really squared instead of gently rounded. I had to beat one open, rounded the edge, now its smooth . Just a tiny, but critical spot.

GP.....Sounds way too good to be true. Is there any way you can show by photo where on the bolt your talking about? Would be greatly appreciated. I'd be happy to break down a sticking bolt and post some photo's if that would be a help.
We went over and over this problem about a year ago on the files to the point where we were installing 20 guage bore brushes on drills and such. I found with the 14 or so M44, 91/30 and 38's that I own, that the rubber mallet trick was good for about 1/2 of them and they all worked great once I stopped firing the laquered and non-brass ammo. That being said, it doesn't do me a whole lot of good knowing I have about 4 cases of lacquered ammo to get through. :mad: It seemed like such a hit or miss situation, my favorite rifle an m44, the one that I shot the moose with, cycles as smooth as my M77 Ruger with or without brass ammo.... and it's not a Finn or Tula.
Anyways, thanks for the help

A takes a sledgehammer to open.

B opens smoothly




http://www.arizonaresponsesystems.com/webpictures/nagantbolt01.jpg

Interesting.

I'll have to look at a 1939 Tula I have that is hit or miss as far as easy to open. Sometimes it practically falls open, sometimes it takes a hard hit with your palm. This one is not a "re-arsenal" it is, as far as I can tell, original parts, as it was though WWII.

-myers

not saying that some ammo and high temps may not cause hard opening, but this one was hard opening on the first shot with czech light ball. I was afraid I'd break something but the 3# rubber mallet did the trick.

Hey GP....thanks for taking the time to go and pull that all apart for us. I would never in a million years have seen that little a difference. I'm Printing out the photo's as we speak. I've got a couple that will occassionally stick like crazy regardless of the ammo. This will be an interesting experiment. I'll get back to you with the results asap. Thanks again for taking the time to photo the issue,
gracias.. :smile_sma
jim

do GPs fix, if that's not it its sticky bolt syndrome.

the chamber is coated with a mix of carbonized cosmoline and crap left over from polymer coated cases.

the heat turns the crap into a simple glue locks you up tight.

take a fired brass casing, cut it off right past the shoulder with a pipe cutter.

drill out the primer pocket and drop a screw in the same thread type as a cleaning rod so it can screw into the extension.

screw the case to the rod, lightly coat the case with jewelers rogue and put in the chamber.

spin the case with a drill slowly.

cuts all the crap out of it.

be careful it doesn't take much.

can you put a round in the chamber and cycle the bolt without firing...with the same problem occuring?

that could eliminate sticky chamber..prior to breaking the gun down

i've found that lacquer cases is the cause of the tight bolt in my mosin, I happen to run into a guy at a gun show that was talking about this problem. He stated he had 10 mosins and all of them would stick with lacquer cases. Told me to put a brass brush on the drill and with wd-40 and have it ! He was right, cleaned out the mess, no problem now. I clean good after shoot. Still shoot my cheap ammo.

I have found that the chambers in war time production rifle, which is 99.9 percent of the M-N out there, are very rough, they didn't care to make them smooth, just that a chamber was made, which makes it harder then it should to extract a spent casing out of the chamber........what I did was to chuck a brand new 12 gauge bore brush, on a cleaning rod,, to a hand drill, used some BRAKE-FREE, then carefully "cleaned" up the chamber

now, I have read were people have used a lapping compound, but I don't know how aggresive that would be, that might be a little too much "over-kill", the key is just make the chamber smoother then it is, so the empty casing doesn't bind up against the walls of the chamber ......just make sure you don't go in too deep into the "throat" (where the rifling starts)

the procedure for using a spent casing, in the above post, looks promising as well.

What Gunplumber is suggesting doesn't have any effect on cocking the rifle. The notch he mentions only comes into play at two points in the cocking cycle.

1) The moment the bolt hits the top of the rotation. At this point "sticky bolt syndrome" has already been resolved by the hammer you had to use to smack open the bolt.

2) The point at which you push the bolt back down into battery.

The notch he's mentioning doesn't affect the sticky bolt situation. What DOES affect Sticky bolt syndrome are the smoothness of the chamber, the type of ammo you're using (steel-cased sticks, while brass-cased is less likely to.) and the smoothness of the camming surfaces of the receiver and bolt.

The receiver cutout on the right side for the bolt has camming surfaces on the back and front. As you rotate the bolt notice how the receiver hands off the bolt handle from the rear of the receiver cutout to the front of the receiver cutout. Using jewelers' compound and a cloth wheel on a dremel tool you can smooth these surfaces, and relieve a little of your sticky bolt syndrome.

Sorry Charlie, but you are totally and completely wrong. Just look at the bolt, dude, it ain't rocket science. You'll see it exactly as I have described.

Of course, I didn't come by this discovery on accident. I bought a 91/30 and on testfire of the FIRST ROUND out of a clean chamber (rules out laquered case) I could not physically open the bolt handle using all my strength. I took it back to the shop thinking it was a bad round or bad headspace. I had to wallop it with my big rubber mallet to get it open. Headspace checked too. I tested again - same result. Upon examination I noticed the squareness of the lobes that should be rounded. After this correction - I put the rest of that same box of ammo (Czech Light Ball) through it as fast as I could work the bolt - smooth as butter.

It's OK GP, I accept your apology. Your mistake is a common one. You have to spend some time with the Mosin-Nagant bolt to understand how it works. I'll demonstrate so you can understand. The basic rundown of how the bolt works follows:

http://www2.regmar.com:81/Pics/my-rifle/c%20and%20r/m9130%201938%20sn2434/reduced/1)%20bolt%20side%20view.jpg[/img]

1) As the bolt handle is lifted the front internal camming surface (bolt sleeve) begins to rotate, while the rear one (cocking piece) remains still. This causes the two halves of the bolt to pull apart against the tension of the internal spring. You will notice from the photo below that the bolt has to cycle completely through its cocking sequence before the notch and the tab interact. By this point you've already cleared the [i]stiction.

http://www2.regmar.com:81/Pics/my-rifle/c%20and%20r/m9130%201938%20sn2434/reduced/6) bolt parts showing internal camming surface.jpg[/img]

Naturally the spring wants to pull the bolt head back towards the shooter. At this point the rear camming surface of the bolt handle lug engages the rear receiver camming surface preventing the bolt sleeve and bolt head from moving back with the cocking piece.

Here is the rear receiver camming surface with the bolt removed. I have polished the camming surface to ease the bolt rotation. This surface is the first surface the bolt handle cam engages.

http://www2.regmar.com:81/Pics/my-rifle/c%20and%20r/m9130%201938%20sn2434/reduced/2)%20rear%20camming%20surface%20side%20view.jpg

http://www2.regmar.com:81/Pics/my-rifle/c%20and%20r/m9130%201938%20sn2434/reduced/9)%20bolt%20handle%20rear%20camming%20surface.jpg

2) Now as the handle begins to lift the rear camming surface of the bolt handle lug comes into contact with the rear camming surface of the receiver.

http://www2.regmar.com:81/Pics/my-rifle/c%20and%20r/m9130%201938%20sn2434/reduced/4)%20cocking%20step%201%20-%20rear%20cam%20surface.jpg

The tension of the spring makes a lot of friction between these two surfaces.

3) As the handle continues upward the rear camming surface of the bolt handle lug clears the release point at the rear of the receiver camming surface, and the front bolt handle camming surface engages the receiver front camming surface beginning the spent case extraction part of the cocking cycle. This is where the sticky-bolt difficulty occurs.

http://www2.regmar.com:81/Pics/my-rifle/c%20and%20r/m9130%201938%20sn2434/reduced/5)%20cocking%20step%202%20-%20front%20cam%20surface.jpg

http://www2.regmar.com:81/Pics/my-rifle/c%20and%20r/m9130%201938%20sn2434/reduced/8)%20bolt%20handle%20front%20camming%20surface.jpg

http://www2.regmar.com:81/Pics/my-rifle/c%20and%20r/m9130%201938%20sn2434/reduced/3)%20rcvr%20front%20cam%20surface%20top%20view.jpg

Again friction between these two surfaces is pretty strong. Polishing them helps. OK here we are at the point where your tab engages the notch that you say causes sticky-bolt problems.

http://www2.regmar.com:81/Pics/my-rifle/c%20and%20r/m9130%201938%20sn2434/reduced/7)%20bolt%20fully%20cocked%20-%20upright.jpg

In reality, by this point you've already either cleared the sticky-bolt or given up and taken out a different rifle.

Sticky bolt syndrome has been debated ad nauseam, GP, and your suggestion really doesn't fit with any of the accepted theories. The big problem with your hypothesis is that you place the resistance at the wrong point in the bolt movement. Your suggestion places it at the very top of the bolt cycle when it actually occurs right where the handoff between rear and front camming surfaces occurs about 1/3 of the way up. In fact if your suggestion were to be true the problem would occur whether there were a spent case in the chamber or not. Since this is clearly not the case, your idea falls apart.

The real problem that causes the sticky bolt syndrome is a combination of a roughly machined chamber that's not as smooth as it needs to be (and is often coated with dried and packed cosmoline to boot), and steel cased ammo which does not contract as much as brass does after firing. These are compounded by the fact that the Mosin-Nagant design extracts the spent case on the up-swing of the bolt handle where there's really not enough leverage to do the job properly.

Solutions are

1) Take a 12-guage nylon bore brush, and using a segment of cleaning rod chuck it into a drill then run it at low speed with brake cleaner in the chamber [i]being careful to not engage the throat! for about 10 minutes or so

2) Use brass-cased ammo. You will find the problem much less pronounced with commercial (brass) ammo as well as with Bulgarian and Russian ammo.

3) Carefully (and with good light) examine the chamber of the rifle. You can frequently see deformations or roughness inside the chamber. Using emory cloth wrapped around the 12-gauge brush, polish the inside of your chamber carefully and slowly.

4) Polish the camming surfaces of the bolt, bolt handle lug, and receiver.

I have tried all three of these solutions, and # 2 works best, followed by #4. 1 and 3 have not served me so well, but others claim that they work, so I include them here.

wow, it never occured to me to polish the camming surface of the bolt and receiver..............what did you use to polish the camming surfaces of the bolt and receiver? I am going to try that myself to get a more smoother action out of the bolt then it already is.

thanks for the tip :)

I use jewelers' rouge and a cloth dremel polishing drum. I run it at a very low speed, because in this instance less is more. It's better to not take off enough than, well you know :-)

By the way in this instance the low-hanging fruit are the receiver surfaces. They're easy to get to, and easy to polish without accidentally getting something you don't want to touch.

I have no clue what jewelers' rouge is........so I did a GOOGLE search, and it comes up with 3 different colors indicating different grades.......red, green and white......so what did you use?

Sorry about the obscure reference. The Ace Hardware here on the corner has it. It's a very lightly abrasive paste used for polishing jewelry. Auto buffing compound would probably do a good job as well. What you're after here is the most mild abrasive you can find, so you polish VERY slowly.

thanks! :)

You're wrong.

Not wrong about all the simple and obvious friction points you point out and are commonly polished in bolt actions - that's elementary stuff. I even designed a machine for lapping bolts based on the function of locomotive wheels.

But my Nagant wasn't just rough - it physically wouldn't open without a mallet. This is not caused by a few rough spots in the bolt or the bolt/receiver interface. It did not happen in any of my dozen other 91/30s, M38s or M44s - so something was different. I compared a bolt that worked with one that didn't and quickly came to a solution that worked.

You are wrong to insist that I am wrong. There is the irrefutable fact that I did it and it solved the problem. Kindof hard to escape that one . . . which should be evidence enough. But also because it is self-evident to anyone looking at it that a square protrusion (labeled "GP's notch" in your second picture)is not going to climb the caming trough as smoothly as a round one, and if the square protrusion is long enough, it can't get over the initial hump and begin the helical caming motion - which was the problem with my gun.

You have good, rudimentary pointers in how simple polishing can improve a rough bolt. Mine was stuck, not merely rough, and my method fixed it.

GP you are telling him how to fix your single very unusual Mosin-Nagant. Most of us have a lot more than one, and we have a lot more experience dealing with the problem. He doesn't need to know how to fix your Mosin-Nagant. He needs to know how to fix all the rest of them.

I am telling him how I fixed a problem with one of mine. Who the hell is "we?" Ar you a collective now? And how does your multiple-personality "we" know it has "a lot more experience"?

And why are you so desperate to dispute a simple fix that worked completely and immediately for me?

If the simple fix that worked on one of my rifles helps someone, then I have accomplished my mission. What is your mission? To help the OP or to troll my posts?

I am telling him how I fixed a problem with one of mine. Who the hell is "we?" Ar you a collective now? And how does your multiple-personality "we" know it has "a lot more experience"?

And why are you so desperate to dispute a simple fix that worked completely and immediately for me?

If the simple fix that worked on one of my rifles helps someone, then I have accomplished my mission. What is your mission? To help the OP or to troll my posts?

If that "solution" worked for you, then it was because the Lord Jesus Himself stepped in and fixed your gun. It will not solve the sticky bolt syndrome for anyone else, and your tantrum isn't going to change that fact. Name-calling and histrionics certainly won't. You may know something about AK's, but you need to bone up on Mosin-Nagants.

The "we" I'm talking about is me and the Mosin-Nagant collector community. If you want to hang out with the big dogs of Mosin-Nagant collectors you should go over to Gunboards where they run.

If you read back over this thread, you haven't offered any reasoning explanations, only "This Works." and "You're wrong." No explanations at all. For a guy who conducts most of his exchanges through insults you're sure whining a lot when you get a little of it back. Grow up.

You are wrong. Its beyond dispute. The only way you could NOT be wrong is if

a. I didn't have a stuck bolt and
b. the adjustment I made didn't fix it.

Since I did have stuck bolt, and rounding this squared protrusion to a rounded profile fixed it, you are totally and completely 100% wrong. I am an arrogant, stuck up, narcissistic, elitist asshole - but a liar I am not.

But if you were really interested in helping the OP and not fixed upon this irrational need to troll my posts, you might learn something.

I gave a very logical reason what the problem with my bolt was and why my simple fix immediately corrected the "bolt hard to open" problem. Your inability to comprehend that round cams function more smoothly than square ones is not an issue I can address. Perhaps you should take that up with your shrink during your next court-ordered anger-management class.

The simple and rudimentary "polish friction surfaces" answer you gave isn't wrong. It just doesn't address all the possibilities. I'm sure the "big dogs" will be thrilled that you assign your narrow thinking to them as well.

Maybe that's why I've been so successful for the last 20-odd years as professional gunsmith - I think outside the box and don't insist the most common cause must be the only cause. Not every problem is fixed by dumping lapping compound on it.

I had Moo Shoo Pork and eggrolls for dinner - are you going to insist that I didn't - just because its not what you had for dinner? Or not what "the big dogs" "rolled with" tonight (whatever the heck that is supposed to mean).

Yeah - you really need to grow up. You are embarrassing yourself. Its like a slow-motion train-wreck - painful to watch, but still captivating.

You are wrong. Its beyond dispute. The only way you could NOT be wrong is if

a. I didn't have a stuck bolt and
b. the adjustment I made didn't fix it.

Since I did have stuck bolt, and rounding this squared protrusion to a rounded profile fixed it, you are totally and completely 100% wrong. I am an arrogant, stuck up, narcissistic, elitist asshole - but a liar I am not.

But if you were really interested in helping the OP and not fixed upon this irrational need to troll my posts, you might learn something.

I gave a very logical reason what the problem with my bolt was and why my simple fix immediately corrected the "bolt hard to open" problem. Your inability to comprehend that round cams function more smoothly than square ones is not an issue I can address. Perhaps you should take that up with your shrink during your next court-ordered anger-management class.

The simple and rudimentary "polish friction surfaces" answer you gave isn't wrong. It just doesn't address all the possibilities. I'm sure the "big dogs" will be thrilled that you assign your narrow thinking to them as well.

Maybe that's why I've been so successful for the last 20-odd years as professional gunsmith - I think outside the box and don't insist the most common cause must be the only cause. Not every problem is fixed by dumping lapping compound on it.

I had Moo Shoo Pork and eggrolls for dinner - are you going to insist that I didn't - just because its not what you had for dinner? Or not what "the big dogs" "rolled with" tonight (whatever the heck that is supposed to mean).

Yeah - you really need to grow up. You are embarrassing yourself. Its like a slow-motion train-wreck - painful to watch, but still captivating.

Remarkable.

The tab-and-notch that you describe aren't cams. They're only there to hold the bolt in place while the ejection (not extraction) movement is performed. All your impotent protestations beg the question of your ignorance about the subject in question. And by the way you don't have to be a liar to be ignorant and arrogant. You shouldn't be posting in this forum, because you don't understand Mosin-Nagants, which is remarkable, because you pose as a firearms "expert". By the way, expert, why don't you explain why your "solution" to the original poster's problem will solve his problem? Bet you can't.

Stick with AKs. By the way - the other way I could be right is if you didn't understand why something else you did made the problem go away.

So you say that you're an asshole. We've made some progress here.

What's remarkable is that you can post a picture of what I described, label it, and still remain baffled.

"gunplumber's Tab" in your second picture has to get to what you labled "gunplumber's notch" for the bolt to open. (Duh!)

Anyway, your repeating the same bullshit has grown boring.

Either I made up the problem and the fix from thin air, or you are a fool. I already know the answer. The readers can draw their own conclusions. Your trolling won't change it.

What's remarkable is that you can post a picture of what I described, label it, and still remain baffled.

"gunplumber's Tab" in your second picture has to get to what you labled "gunplumber's notch" for the bolt to open. (Duh!)

Anyway, your repeating the same bullshit has grown boring.

Either I made up the problem and the fix from thin air, or you are a fool. I already know the answer. The readers can draw their own conclusions. Your trolling won't change it.

Since trolls who say they're going away never actually do, I'll answer you GP, the self-proclaimed asshole. The solution you proposed had NOTHING to do with camming. You said NOTHING about the camming action of the bolt, and had our reader followed your advice he would still have a stuck bolt, and would be wondering why your solution wasn't working for him.

You suggested milling the straight sides of a 2mm notch to relieve sticky bolt issues. :bonk: Now since that notch doesn't get touched until after the bolt has been released, your hypothesis is wrong as any fool can see - even one as dense as you. To answer your "either/or" you made it up from thin air. I proved it by some very good photographs. What really caps it is your claim that anyone who looks at a Mosin-Nagant bolt cocking would see that you are right. By my demonstration it's become obvious that you didn't even follow your own advice!

Then you turn to insults and tantrums to try to get me to back down when you and I both know that your idea has nothing to do with sticky bolt syndrome - if you actually knew what it was before I told you. I'd say your description of yourself pretty much hit the nail on the head - except for the lying part.

[QUOTE=my-rifle]

You suggested milling the straight sides of a 2mm notch to relieve sticky bolt issues.

You have demonstrated your reading ability matches your mechanical acumen: That is, non-existent. I never said to mill anything, nor gave any dimensions - just see if the spot is squared or rounded, and if squared, to round it

That you turn to insults and tantrums to try to get me to back down when you and I both know that I am totally and 100% correct shows you don't care about helping the OP, your objective is just trolling. You really need to grow up.

You and I both know that a sticky bolt if caused by the issue I identified would be immediately fixed by the adjustment I outlined. Your straw arguments clearly establish your ulterior motives.

[QUOTE=my-rifle]

You suggested milling the straight sides of a 2mm notch to relieve sticky bolt issues.

You have demonstrated your reading ability matches your mechanical acumen: That is, non-existent. I never said to mill anything, nor gave any dimensions - just see if the spot is squared or rounded, and if squared, to round it

That you turn to insults and tantrums to try to get me to back down when you and I both know that I am totally and 100% correct shows you don't care about helping the OP, your objective is just trolling. You really need to grow up.

You and I both know that a sticky bolt if caused by the issue I identified would be immediately fixed by the adjustment I outlined. Your straw arguments clearly establish your ulterior motives.

But sticky bolt syndrome is not caused by what you suggested.

If my aunt had balls, she'd be my uncle. But she's not.

Doesn't this hurt, Mark? Doesn't it? Your paltry and impotent attacks make you look pathetic. The best you can do is nibble at the edges of this discussion, because you have no meat to bring to the table. Why don't you just stop? Just go away and don't revisit this thread, and the pain will stop. Every post you make gets you deeper, and deeper into the stupidity.

But sticky bolt syndrome is not caused by what you suggested.

So you keep blindly insisting. But it caused my bolt to stick, and my adjustment fixed it.

Doesn't this hurt, My Rifle? Doesn't it? Why don't you just stop? Just go away and don't revisit this thread, and the pain will stop. Every post you make gets you deeper, and deeper into the stupidity.

Why don't you spend a little time researching "Sticky Bolt", Gunplumber? In fact why not Google,

"Sticky Bolt" "mosin-nagant"

and see what you come up with? Of course you wouldn't do that. No one knows as much as you do about anything, so you of course would never entertain the thought of seeking someone else's opinions. On the other hand if you did you would know that "sticky bolt" is a very well-known problem that has nothing to do with your silly scenario.

Gee, if my sticky bolt was caused by any of the common reasons, I wouldn't be schooling you on a less common reason, would I?

But since I'd already ruled out all the common causes, I had to think outside the box. You ought to try it sometime. Of course THINKING is not something of which you've demonstrated much skill in this thread.

Gee, if my sticky bolt was caused by any of the common reasons, I wouldn't be schooling you on a less common reason, would I?

But since I'd already ruled out all the common causes, I had to think outside the box. You ought to try it sometime. Of course THINKING is not something of which you've demonstrated much skill in this thread

Oh good lord. Now you're pretending that you already knew what sticky bolt is. How pathetic. You weren't thinking outside the box, because you didn't know there was a box. Admit it - you'd never even heard of sticky bolt, or you'd have known that the situation you described had to do with locking the bolt, not unlocking it. Holy shit! You still don't understand how it works, do you? You actually believe that that notch has some effect on the bolt sticking closed. Man! You are a sad case. And you think that by screaming enough and throwing a tantrum that you'll get everyone to say, "It's OK little Markey. We believe you." That may work with your mamma, but it don't work here.

By the way, did you google it? Did you see it? Not one reference to your ridiculous idea. And Mark, those guys know about Mosin-Nagants.

Dude - Are you mental? Your trolling has become really boring. Can't you at least make interesting lies instead of the same old drivel?


Uhhhh GP's a Master Gunsmith and has been in business for almost 20 years . . . duh he's owned around 30 nagants . . . uh he buys 7.62x54 by the pallet to feed his two full -auto PKMs . . . he earned "Gunsmith of the Year" from SAR . .. duh . . . but I, My-Rifle, declare that he'd never heard of a sticky bolt on a Nagant until I told him about it . .. duh. I am the sole authority on who is allowed to know what and if you cross me I'll hold my breath and stamp my foot!

Dude, I know you're you're jealous of my experience and knowledge, but really, this trolling is so. . .. . undignified. If you want, I'll recommend a few good books on rifle design from my extensive library .. . then maybe you too can learn what I know and you won't make such a fool of yourself with this silly trolling of your betters.

SHUT UPPPPPPPPPPPPPP
this stopped being entertaining yesterday!!

either make it like when i was laughing at your antics or cut the crap please

thanks
Jim

Dude - Are you mental? Your trolling has become really boring. Can't you at least make interesting lies instead of the same old drivel?



Dude, I know you're you're jealous of my experience and knowledge, but really, this trolling is so. . .. . undignified. If you want, I'll recommend a few good books on rifle design from my extensive library .. . then maybe you too can learn what I know and you won't make such a fool of yourself with this silly trolling of your betters.

Well you're not much of a master Mosin-Nagant gunsmith or you'd know what "sticky bolt" means. If you thought it meant that it's hard to close the bolt then you don't know shit about Mosin-Nagants. Really. If you've been doing this for 20 years, and you STILL don't know what sticky bolt is, then you're not much of a gunsmith at all.

Here's a suggestion: Why don't you specialize? That way you can stay out of topics you don't understand. And if you want to learn about Mosin-Nagants go spend a few years reading Gunboards, then come back and we'll talk.

LuzRD, I apologize for whatever part I've played in dragging this thread down, but you gotta admit the guy's just not letting go of this. He's wrong nine ways till Sunday. Most people with a shred of dignity when faced with such overwhelming evidence would tuck their tails between their legs and sulk away, but he just won't let go.

Hey Gunplumber. Frankly my arms getting tired from punching you in the face. Why don't you just do it for me for a few days while I relax and have a few.

the squared tab could drag and gall on the ramp but its not a usual occurrence.

to the OP, clean the chamber, polish the lugs, if its still locking up round the tab.

http://papercut.mercenariesguild.net/17.jpg

If you thought it meant that it's hard to close the bolt then you don't know shit about Mosin-Nagants.

"If" I thought that, I probably wouldn't have used the example of a rubber mallet to OPEN the bolt in the Sticky Bolt thread.

These straw arguments just don't lift you out of the hole you've dug for yourself.

IF I did A, then B. But since I never did A, your suggesting I did to argue against it is dishonest at best and further evidence of your zealous trolling.

Most people with a shred of dignity when faced with such overwhelming evidence would tuck their tails between their legs and sulk away, but My-Rifle just won't let go.

Why did I read this ?

Why did I read this ?

because you have nothing else going on? :rofl_smal

"If" I thought that, I probably wouldn't have used the example of a rubber mallet to OPEN the bolt in the Sticky Bolt thread.

These straw arguments just don't lift you out of the hole you've dug for yourself.

IF I did A, then B. But since I never did A, your suggesting I did to argue against it is dishonest at best and further evidence of your zealous trolling.

Most people with a shred of dignity when faced with such overwhelming evidence would tuck their tails between their legs and sulk away, but My-Rifle just won't let go.

Hey! Here's an idea. Why don't you show us pictures of what you did as well as a step-by-step view of the bolt opening (outside the rifle) riding the cam, so we can understand how a "gunsmith" explains the problem? Come on Mr. "Gunsmith". Since you know so much about Mosin-Nagants, show the rest of us ignorant sods. Remember - I'm watching, and if you lie I'm going to catch you.

Let me guess. "I'm not going to do it just because you tell me to." or "I'm not going to tell you, because then you'll know." or even better "The dog ate my homework."

You pathetic excuse for a human being. You can't even make up your own posts. You have to copy mine.

oh golly, is the yapping chihuahua back? There is no "the rest of us ignorant sods". Only you. You pathetic excuse for a human being.

oh golly, is the yapping chihuahua back? There is no "the rest of us ignorant sods". Only you. You pathetic excuse for a human being.

Heh, heh. Still no explanation eh? I think we all know why you can't explain your "solution".