update: I'm now satisfied with my pa63!

i think i got a false reading the 1st time i fired it? i mean, i aimed at a dead tree log and thought i saw wood spllinter, or dust flick'd up off the wood? i think out of being pumped up i may have thought i hit something-truth is i may have grazed the log, or my dust did!?!?!?!?!? lol.

but the last few times i fired it i was quite dissapointed as my aimed shots where somewhat downwards my intended target? i am new to hand guns maybe i am using improper technique? if anyone has useful tips on hand gun posture, or technique feel free to share it!
to make thing s worse my damn pistil occasionally jams up cause it may need breakin in(speculation on my part), or i do not how to lube and clean a pistol for use correctly? anyhow i floundered today with it, and i am in need of some answers. tia.

Wow, that's a hand full, First get a manual on maintenence, and there all plenty
of sites with info on taking care and cleaning it. As to the shooting, Start at
about 30 ft with a paper 2' square target set up. You can't get a clear picture of what you
are doing without it. Shoot about five to ten rounds carefully aiming at the bulls
eye, If your first shots are not on the paper, cut the distance in half, 15 ft.
If you're group of shots is all in a ten or 12 inch circle you and your pistol are
fine and you just need practice and maybe to adjust your trigger technique and
or sights to bring you to center on the target. Bring tape, (masking is fine) to
tape over your holes between groups, quicker and cheaper than targets.
sure wish you had access to a 22 pistol to start with, a lot cheaper to learn
with and it all but eliminates flinching. (ruger 22 , browning buckmark , these
types are great pistols to learn on.
Next you are going to have to dry fire some to see if you are jerking the gun.
I like to have a friend (usually me) turn their back to the shooter and load the
gun or leave it empty, hidden from the shooter. When they pull the trigger on
an empty chamber they can see if they jerk. The last thing, sights on a pistol
are lined up across the top and your aim is placed a little under the bulls eye
so the sights don't obscure your view. You keep your eye on the front sight
keeping it centered in the rear. The target is in the back ground of your focus.
If you pull the trigger and don't have a "picture" in your mind of what the sights looked like after the fact, you probably missed because you were looking at something else besides that front sight. Last there is a little card
you can carry that tells you how to correct your grip to eliminate pulling
shots one way or the other. I am sure it's downloadable off the net, I will try
and find one and post it. hope this helps and keep shooting, you'll get it. Join
a range if one is available and there will be guys/gals around that can help.

Wow, that's a hand full, First get a manual on maintenence, and there all plenty
of sites with info on taking care and cleaning it. As to the shooting, Start at
about 30 ft with a paper 2' square target set up. You can't get a clear picture of what you
are doing without it. Shoot about five to ten rounds carefully aiming at the bulls
eye, If your first shots are not on the paper, cut the distance in half, 15 ft.
If you're group of shots is all in a ten or 12 inch circle you and your pistol are
fine and you just need practice and maybe to adjust your trigger technique and
or sights to bring you to center on the target. Bring tape, (masking is fine) to
tape over your holes between groups, quicker and cheaper than targets.
sure wish you had access to a 22 pistol to start with, a lot cheaper to learn
with and it all but eliminates flinching. (ruger 22 , browning buckmark , these
types are great pistols to learn on.
Next you are going to have to dry fire some to see if you are jerking the gun.
I like to have a friend (usually me) turn their back to the shooter and load the
gun or leave it empty, hidden from the shooter. When they pull the trigger on
an empty chamber they can see if they jerk. The last thing, sights on a pistol
are lined up across the top and your aim is placed a little under the bulls eye
so the sights don't obscure your view. You keep your eye on the front sight
keeping it centered in the rear. The target is in the back ground of your focus.
If you pull the trigger and don't have a "picture" in your mind of what the sights looked like after the fact, you probably missed because you were looking at something else besides that front sight. Last there is a little card
you can carry that tells you how to correct your grip to eliminate pulling
shots one way or the other. I am sure it's downloadable off the net, I will try
and find one and post it. hope this helps and keep shooting, you'll get it. Join
a range if one is available and there will be guys/gals around that can help.thanks man! i have got sum improvements after a gent here told me to squeeze the trigger and try to pull at it.... cause it takes away in the accuracy dept.


here's that happens i aim at the bullseye-with my sites alined, but the rounds hit downwards sum..... is this normal? or would i want to be aiming slightly below the bulls eye like ya said in order to hit it right on the money?

i'll try the distance variation you mensioned. thanks again!

as for my pistol jamming sometimes, i think it's due to maybe the gun needing breaking in, or i am not lubing the right spots?

are you lining up the top of the front site with the top of the rear, pistol and
rifle sights are different.

the pistol is brutal though for 9 mm! when i hit the mud it makes a good 3 inch mudhole and spatters mud all over the place. i finally was able to knock over a oil can at about 20 feet! actually even though i hit just below the target it was a quatuum leap forward in the accuracy dept. i think i hit the bottke once and put a diagional shot through it.

GENTS- if any of you happen to order j& g's $99 buck-pa63 cocking it is a bitch! the way i can do it is to; hold the gun with my left hand-holding the handle ofcourse. then i have to do a over hand palm down charging action by manhandling it! it cocks better now that it's starting to break in.

the other method hold with left hand and grab the whole rear area where the grooves are and the safety, but actually have your hand fingers etc., to grab slightly forward of the grooves etc... this allow a good solid grip! then just cock the sucker and -let her rip!

i know i could cheat and just manually cock the the hammer. but it's nice to LOAD AND LOCK!

are you lining up the top of the front site with the top of the rear, pistol and
rifle sights are different.i am aligning the front site so that the u has alignment so that the front site fills the u and there's no gap, or protrution on top.... if you can imagine (l) a site like this, but i also put in imaginary oasis you see to line up the sites if you can imagine a rular on top of the u aligning it all up. is that right?

Yes you got it. Those things are light and have a fixed barrel which translates
to quite a bit of recoil for a small round, you can get an aftermarket recoil
spring and grips that will make it more comfortable to shoot.

kinda like when i shoot my rifles-same thing you got the u and a strait line through the middle as in this diagram(l), but on the top as you site in you see the oasis of a line. on top-lining up the sites on target, well, my issue is my sites are VERY tite-so i don't see that line on top, or that oasis i see on my ak's. what i do see is a front site aligning to the rear site-or u like deal. i think i am making it sound too complicated!? lol
here's a link i found at the glock site-o been practicing with for my technical advice for shooting a hand gun; http://www.glockfaq.com/shooting.htm -let me know what you think of this material? tia.

bigwheel i already ordered the wollf recoil spring at makarov .com and i been using it. i got the 15 lb tension spring for the pa63. it has dampened felt recoil a little-not much. and so far it has improved accuracy a little. i think i just need more time & practice is all.

www.makarov.com (http://www.makarov.com/) is where i got the spring from.

i chose the 15 lb spring due to the violant felt recoil. it's also going to be safer on the shooter according to makarov.com. http://www.makarov.com/cart/vitempa63.htm

Yes it covers all the basics, your rifle should be sighted so the bead or top of
the front site is all the way down in the bottom of the rear, most rifle rears are
"v" 's and most pistols are squared off "U" 's for this reason.

thanks for you .02, i'll try out what you said, and in the meantime i will figure out how to lube it up right. i just made a slight improvement! i lubed up the rails in the track-was doin that, also i lubed the hammer sides(little holes), and also oiled the underside (under bbl )where the top piece of the gun cycles over. this made is looser with the cycling.... i get a bullet that occasioannly noses downwards and gets stuck in the chamber. i had to put my gun on safety, then remove the top to remove the stuck rounds. then i removed the mag-cleared gun and started over.

sometimes when it jams i can slightly charge it back a sliver-then release it to correct it, sometimes it gets stuck worse and then i have to put gun safety -remove top cover. get rounds out and start like i said. ofcourse i fish the rounds out and reload etc etc... lol

bigwheel i am interested in after market grip? maybe makarov.com has um? i'll check-thanks again!

for the $170 total i spent it sure is a lot fun though! LOL

I would have to have a 63 in my hands to see the feed ramp and I can't remember if they have a hold open on last round. But every ppk I owned
I had to work on the feed ramps to make them reliable. Try bullets that are
the exact shape and weight of the original rounds the gun was designed for
and you may see the problem go away. If the nose of the bullet is hanging
down it is the magazine that is holding it low or the feed ramp isn't shaped
right for the bullet. I have seen the hold open devise on 1911's catching the
bullet nose before and causing the same problem Kinda fussy item to fool with over the net. I suggest
doing nothing except researching the correct ammo for it.

YES it holds open on last round.

i will have to find out what bullets are best for the gun-good idea!! the lellier and bellot fmj i am using a czech ammo os not very good for this gun i would say. i may try the other brand they have at the gun shop? or order sum stuff online. if anyone has a tip as to what brand worx best-let me know-tia. Jim

Here is the card I mentioned earlier, look to the direction your fliers are in on
the target to see what you are doing when you squeeze off the shot. this is
for a rt handed shooter

nice -bigwheel! i was reading at the gLock site. anyhow a guy says hold gun firm but not tite to imprpbe accuracy was it? maybe i was hoolding gun too tite, also pulling at the trigger too much?

also i been practicing dry firing and it seemed to almost reduce my pulls to the side 98 %! i think after i combine the glock sites tips, your tips and other tips i get i will improve my hand gun skills. i do plan to take a ccw course i hope soon!

I took it out a few days ago and got it hitting my target finally! the solution was to; hold it firm-but not too tite-just firm, elbows slightly bent, breathing natural, arms extanded-wrist firmed-hold breath on fire and walla! i was hitting a paint bucket 5 gallon empty and 40 yards! also tagged was a plastic coke bottle at 30 yards a pint bottle that is! trigger squeeze(light and controlled also helped keep the gun shootin strait. I think i just need to keep doin what i am doin and my accuracy will improve. also i was shootin single and double handed.

btw- a 65 year old man was impressed with what he thought might have been a .22! lol. but he came to check it out and i told him it was a 9x18 pa63 firing makarov ammo. he was wondering why my .22 was soo darned loud. neat guy! he also said he re-load his own brass, but doesn't save much$. fun day with-the--pa63!

They can be pretty accurate...

On the bench just to play for accuracy I could hit... probably 5 our of 7 rounds on a steel plate from 35yds. It really helped my ability to aim starting from the bench, neutralizing "my" effects.

-myers

They can be pretty accurate...

On the bench just to play for accuracy I could hit... probably 5 our of 7 rounds on a steel plate from 35yds. It really helped my ability to aim starting from the bench, neutralizing "my" effects.

-myersright on! yea i did notice that if i did not hold it excively 'tite'-but just firm and not pull at the trigger-but rather squeeze it-bonk! i was hitting my targets better. but i will need to try sum bench action.btw-i just bought sum-FIOCHI 95 GR. FMJ! it was $3 bucks more then then the lellier & bellot, but it has a shinier brass case that seems to load & lock easier/smoother. i suppose it may play it's role on better performance? crossing my fingers.

FAL GRUNT-do you get all kinds a people asking you what kinda gun is that!? lol. people seem to look when i shoot it! maybe the LOUD bang of MAKAROV AMMO?! lol. boy is it loud!

I would also highly recommend that you change out the hammer spring for a lighter one. As it comes from the factory the trigger pull is horrible which means you are probably pulling your shots as you pull the trigger.

Wolff springs (http://www.gunsprings.com/SemiAuto/FegNF.html#PA63) sells them.

Be sure you are using <100gr bullets in the gun; FMJ works best. Some of the magazines supplied with the PA63s are parkerized; take them apart and use a green scrubber to wipe the inside well to make sure it is smooth so the follower doesn't bind. Check the feed lips on them also as they can need tweaking. The feedramp is part of the AL frame and may need a slight polishing to get HPs to feed.

Not sure what ammo you're using, but try some Silver Bear and see how that works for you.

Never had anyone ask, but there were not many people around as I usually was shooting during the day during the week.

-myers

I would also highly recommend that you change out the hammer spring for a lighter one. As it comes from the factory the trigger pull is horrible which means you are probably pulling your shots as you pull the trigger.

Wolff springs (http://www.gunsprings.com/SemiAuto/FegNF.html#PA63) sells them.

Be sure you are using <100gr bullets in the gun; FMJ works best. Some of the magazines supplied with the PA63s are parkerized; take them apart and use a green scrubber to wipe the inside well to make sure it is smooth so the follower doesn't bind. Check the feed lips on them also as they can need tweaking. The feedramp is part of the AL frame and may need a slight polishing to get HPs to feed.

Not sure what ammo you're using, but try some Silver Bear and see how that works for you.i use sellier & bellOT 95 gr fmj, an juzt got fiochi fmj 95 gr... how do i tweak the feed lips? is that on mag???TIA

i made a direct 60 yard hit on a prestone brake fluid bottle!i am finally getting the feel for my FEG pa63! i think the key improvement was in the grip! hold it firm-but NOT TIGHT! Trigger pull was a easy squeeze with trigger right below middle of the pad on index finger at the 1st joint from the tip towards the palm.. or just above the joint there. i did the shot single handed with a slight bend at the elbow-bang! WOW! I TAGGED IT!! bottle got tore up-no shit! i am amazed at how brutal such a small slug does on impact. even my romie does not tear holes that look so jagged on the bottles(plastic).... the recoil on the pa63 is plain BRUTAL. hell i hit the mud on accident on about 35-40 yard shot and it literally lifted a blanket of mud about easily 1 foot long! just tore up a splash of mud!

anyhow, i met a young gent outhere and he offered to let me try his ruger .22 rifle. i tried it out and it was pretty nice! real accuraTE AND SMOOTH. RECOIL WAS TOTALLY NILL. i let him try my 63 and he seemed to like it a lot. i think he said he may have to get one! lol.

i made several other good shots, but overall i am now satisfied with it! lotta BANG FOR $170-OTD!

I would also highly recommend that you change out the hammer spring for a lighter one. As it comes from the factory the trigger pull is horrible which means you are probably pulling your shots as you pull the trigger.

Wolff springs (http://www.gunsprings.com/SemiAuto/FegNF.html#PA63) sells them.

Be sure you are using <100gr bullets in the gun; FMJ works best. Some of the magazines supplied with the PA63s are parkerized; take them apart and use a green scrubber to wipe the inside well to make sure it is smooth so the follower doesn't bind. Check the feed lips on them also as they can need tweaking. The feedramp is part of the AL frame and may need a slight polishing to get HPs to feed.

Not sure what ammo you're using, but try some Silver Bear and see how that works for you.if i knew how i would, cause mine is stiff as heck to charge. but i can do it! i appreciate the tip, but i'd probably not know how to re-assemble it after taking it apart. i think i'd have to pay a gunsmith to do it. i did change the wolf recoil spring to a 15 lb one. the spring has made the gun much better i think. recoil is now managable.

well i did some mock self-defence shooting today! a single road width and a half and +- no hesitation-just lift and let go! riddled it up and went to go look and made hits all over the bucket. they where kinda spread out, but several shots where not too far off center! this is the backside i am getting a pic of the front side. HERE'S MORE OF THEhttp://i25.tinypic.com/epf0up.jpg RIDDLIN! THIS IS THE FRONT SIDE:http://i30.tinypic.com/241jz46.jpg notice the holes as big an ak47 holes if not bigger! and this was 9x18 MAKAROV!

btw-folks in my mock defence mode: the goal is be 'natural' as possible(even breathing is nat!), just lift-aim-let her rip! whatever comnes -comes out 1-1--1 or or 1-1-2 1, or 1 1 2345 1 1 2 1 113 1 etc... and unload clip! just aim and let go at about a road width and a half plus URBAN DEFENCE MODE! do single handed mostly,m then try a few double handed drills! mix it up! btw i keep my elbow slightly bent and hold the gun firm yet not tite and squeeze the trigger gently -yet rather quik at times. just using the pad above my joint at the index figers pad near tip boom boom boom boom ! boom boom! just let her rip! sound like i had fun!? anyone like my mock drill!?? Jwc

nylon$13.49 cent water resistent and durable hip holster bought today!brand: "uncle mikes" item #8101-1 fits the pa63 perfect!http://i30.tinypic.com/nn36eo.jpg

FOLKS - I was going to sell my FEG PA-63, but after getting some excellent & accurate hits within 21 feet-i keep it! the recoil is brutal to my hand-even with my 15lb new Wollf spring in it! this , and my results on my bucket, the keg i shot thru, and a 3"" tree branch that i busted in half as i was firing it the other 2 ago-man i am IMPRESSED! i don't doubt for a min that this sucker WOULD DO damage to whatever it hit-short body armour. i mean if it can go thru a little of an 1/8" thick kegs steel like going thru butter-can you imagine what else it could do!? this leads me to believe it would be an 'IDEAL CCW' for personal defence. or say for home defence i am sure it could punch sum holes thru stuff!

one thing i would recommend is to get the FIOCHI fmj -BECAUSE IT SEEMS TO FEED WELL WITH IT.

another thing that impresses me is the fact i can squeeze each and every one of my 7 rds and make heavy contact-which was enough to even spook me! it also impressed 2-3 people at the gun range! no bull-that's sum serious bang for $99 bucks! well it costed $170 total when all was said and done. that's a pretty affordable price tag if you had to save ur hide with it!

no jam ups anymore now that i learned how to lube it right! one drop of oil in the slide or rails, a drop on the muzzle tip interior, one drop on any metal part that makes metal-to-metal contact.... load & lock it fully and walla! smooth action and dependable shooting all day long! for a small piece - it sure packs a mighty punch!