How do I headspace a Galil barrel?

I've had a like new Galil kit and receiver for about 5 years. I was told that all that was needed for the barrel is to face off a little at a time on barrel shoulder with a metal lathe until the barrel torqued straight up and down or 12 O'clock. That did not work. The barrel is back too far in the receiver. So I've taken it to my gunsmith. He's puzzled too. He is an experenced gunsmith has built my FAL's perfectly and is knowledged with AK's. So he has it now. Can somebody tell us what the proper procedure is? Do we need a washer or shim to back it out 1 full turn? If so, where do I buy the shim? Any help would be appreciated. I've seen some mention of this in other threads but not in full detail.

One full turn out will add 1.5mm (.0591") to the head space. You can get .060" steel shim stock. It comes in cold rolled mild steel, annealed steel, hardened steel and hardened and annealed stainless steel. The thread is 21mm so a 21mm (.8268") hole needs to be in the shim. Some places sell metric thickness shims but not really needed in this case. An annealed shim would give you some more "crush" but to maintain thickness the hardened steel shim would be best. I think I have the numbers correct here but you should double check them with your rifle.

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e371/Dutchkma/troll%20crossing/800px-Troll1.jpg

gunplumber, PULLTHRU, John@JCDLESales, and 6500rpm [members here ] all claim to be authorities on the Galil build process, and should be able to help you out if you contact them. Good luck!

http://i43.photobucket.com/albums/e371/Dutchkma/troll%20crossing/800px-Troll1.jpg

gunplumber, PULLTHRU, John@JCDLESales, and 6500rpm [members here ] all claim to be authorities on the Galil build process, and should be able to help you out if you contact them. Good luck!

Gaas Fok jouself Doos.

Noooo,take my name off that list. 6500rpm= hobby builder with same general problem still looking for answers. Best thing I can add from what I've learned is to make sure you have even bolt lug contact when seated as a starting point to keep from overloading one side or the other. I think if you have that from the start, then half the battle has been won.
Following that, from everything I understand, it's a matter of trimming the shoulder, or adding shims as stated above to time, and or bring into headspace.
Make sure you have Go and NO Go gauges. If you have a seasoned smith, possibly using a chamber reamer.
Read, Read, and Read before proceeding. All the other names listed are the real deal, so listen to what they have to say on the proceedure as well as Todd at ORF as he's the one producing the receivers and complete guns built on the receivers. Try to avoid all the prior drama and get your build right, I think it can be done, it's just not as easy as it seems at first glance.
"If" you think you have a problem with your receiver for any reason, please contact Todd before building on it. I think if you address any issues before it's molested, your going to have a better chance at any warranty than if you decide to do it after the fact.