Utga Schleigle
Just got my M 91/30 home from Big 5 ($89.oo USD +++). It was re-arsenalled but it looks so good I don't think it was used much. It came with all its goodies too - cleaning kit and double bottle. And brand new non matching serial # bayonette.
As always I looked carefully at the rifle and made sure it was the cleanist of the three they had.
Of coarse I wanted the bayonette to go on the gun, but it needed some fitting.
I knew I had to remove metal from bayonette only and never touch the barrell metal - although easier removing any metal from barrel would be very stupid.
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff141/UtgaSchleigle/nagats/100_5853bfw.jpg
A set of needle files and smaller to medium files is a must for any gun work. You can get many great files at swap meats and jumble sales. The round file I used for the hole in the bayonette was for sharpening chain saw teeth. The two files I use most often are the round and flat files. Also you can wrap file in wet dry sand paper and get finish close to polished.
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff141/UtgaSchleigle/nagats/100_5856bfw.jpg
Most of tight fitting problem was close to the end of putting on. So I reversed the bayonette so I would not have to keep fighting to get it back off - tapping it with wooden block. Using graphite from a carpentor's pencil I looked for bright spots on barell and reckoned were to remove metal from bayo-bracket hole.
With fitting or removing metal from your gun part think hard before you remove any metal - go slow - then check - once it fits STOP. With gunsmithing it is hard to add metal - easy to remove it. With cooking it is easy to add to the soup - hard to remove whatever from the soup.
Also the goal is to get a good/easy fit, but you don't want they bayonette to rattle or make noise as you are sneaking up on something or shaking with fear.
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff141/UtgaSchleigle/nagats/100_5854.jpg
Great the bayo fits on, but the lock did not fully extend out when locking. By removing small amounts of metal with flat needle file - it soon lockup fully - with no extra looseness.
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff141/UtgaSchleigle/nagats/100_5857bfw.jpg
Got to fit and lock fully extends graphite from pencil helps it work in. The finish always suffers with the bayonette and this gun had pristine blueing and stock, but I bought the gun to use and if the bayonette was going to fit the blue is going to show wear.
Test if going to rattle by putting on and shivering like you are cold. If you bayonette already rattles do nothing or paint - add solder and refit.
Next I will get a needle sharp tip. It is already pretty sharp but I want a piont to it so if one swung the gun sideways you open up a gash big enough for 62 stitches. Trick is don't go for too deep - will have to practice. :sidegrin_
As always I looked carefully at the rifle and made sure it was the cleanist of the three they had.
Of coarse I wanted the bayonette to go on the gun, but it needed some fitting.
I knew I had to remove metal from bayonette only and never touch the barrell metal - although easier removing any metal from barrel would be very stupid.
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff141/UtgaSchleigle/nagats/100_5853bfw.jpg
A set of needle files and smaller to medium files is a must for any gun work. You can get many great files at swap meats and jumble sales. The round file I used for the hole in the bayonette was for sharpening chain saw teeth. The two files I use most often are the round and flat files. Also you can wrap file in wet dry sand paper and get finish close to polished.
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff141/UtgaSchleigle/nagats/100_5856bfw.jpg
Most of tight fitting problem was close to the end of putting on. So I reversed the bayonette so I would not have to keep fighting to get it back off - tapping it with wooden block. Using graphite from a carpentor's pencil I looked for bright spots on barell and reckoned were to remove metal from bayo-bracket hole.
With fitting or removing metal from your gun part think hard before you remove any metal - go slow - then check - once it fits STOP. With gunsmithing it is hard to add metal - easy to remove it. With cooking it is easy to add to the soup - hard to remove whatever from the soup.
Also the goal is to get a good/easy fit, but you don't want they bayonette to rattle or make noise as you are sneaking up on something or shaking with fear.
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff141/UtgaSchleigle/nagats/100_5854.jpg
Great the bayo fits on, but the lock did not fully extend out when locking. By removing small amounts of metal with flat needle file - it soon lockup fully - with no extra looseness.
http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff141/UtgaSchleigle/nagats/100_5857bfw.jpg
Got to fit and lock fully extends graphite from pencil helps it work in. The finish always suffers with the bayonette and this gun had pristine blueing and stock, but I bought the gun to use and if the bayonette was going to fit the blue is going to show wear.
Test if going to rattle by putting on and shivering like you are cold. If you bayonette already rattles do nothing or paint - add solder and refit.
Next I will get a needle sharp tip. It is already pretty sharp but I want a piont to it so if one swung the gun sideways you open up a gash big enough for 62 stitches. Trick is don't go for too deep - will have to practice. :sidegrin_