View Full Version : sar 1 scope mount crooked
11-10-2003, 11:10 AM
i have a sar 1 that the side scope mount is crooked. when i put a scope on the scope points down in the front. it came with the mount already on. is this common on sar 1's ? i am not sure what the best way to fix it is. if i remove the rear mount rivit and try to correct it , the new hole would intersect the original and end up being more of a slot.
11-10-2003, 01:59 PM
It is fairly common for the rails to be off up and down AND side to side.
It is why an AK is a very poor weapon platform for conventional telescopic sights.
When the sight isn't parallel to the barel in all axis the sight has only ONE range that everything lines up on. At any other point other than that specific range the rifle will shoot off. Off to the right AND left, up AND down, depending on the range.
The dot sights are more forgiving, sort of.
As far as I know, only Robinson Arms has a solution to the problem.
Their article follows........................................... .................................................. .................................................. ....
Problem and Solutions to Mounting Optics on AK Rifles
There is a general problem with mounting optics to AK type rifles. The most prolific problem is that the scope mount attachment rail on the left side of AK is not parallel to the bore. Most of the East Block scope mounts (like the PSO series) have the scope attached to the mount. The reticles of these scopes are designed to move greater distances than those of western optics.
The problem becomes evident when one buys a fancy machined AK Scope Mount, mounts it to his AK and tries to attach a Leupold or some other quality optic. Often the scope is so far out of alignment with the barrel (or so high above the barrel) that the reticles cannot be moved far enough to zero the rifle at 100 yrds.
The Russians have come up with a Weaver/Picatinny type mount which allows one to align the mount (actually the scope) to the bore. It does require a limited amount of simple gunsmithing.
The mount is attached as follows. Refer to the picture below.
First, the desired optic is firmly attached to the Weaver Rail via the appropriate rings. (Note: the Customer must purchase appropriate rings of the proper height for the optic he intends to use.) The reticles of the optic must be centered.
Second, a laser or other type of bore sight is attached to the rifle.
Third, the four screws of the scope mount are loosened so that mount with the scope attached can be rotated until the cross hairs of the scope center on the center of the bore sight.
Fourth, the four screws are firmly tightened (but not over tightened) while the cross hairs remain on the center of the bore sight. (Note: some customers have reported good results by using blue Loctite on the four screws without following the Fifth and Sixth steps below. We advise following the Fifth and Sixth steps. However, there's no harm in trying the Loctite method.)
Fifth, four holes for the four set pins are drilled in four places on the mount. These holes act as pilot holes to drill through the other side of the mount. Drill through the other side of the mount according to the instructions provided with the mount. You can use a .113 drill bit (#33).
Sixth, once the holes for the set pins are drilled, pound the four set pins in place. The set pins ensure the mount remains aligned with the bore even if the screws were to loosen.
The scope mount is now calibrated to the rifle to which it was bore sighted. It may not be calibrated to another AK.
You may have some options before having to buy another mount.
If windage is a problem, you can use the Millett adjustable rings which should solve most any windage problem.
If you need elevation adjustment Burris makes a set of rings (I think they are called the Signature series) that have ring inserts which can be switched around and which will substantially lift or drop the scope as required. I believe, that with the Burris ring you can also shift the scope left or right diagonally, which will give you some "up and over" or "down and under" (for lack of a better description of the adjustment).
Not trying to discourage you from buying another mounting system rather, letting you know you do have some choices.
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