View Full Version : Disconnector Issues
02-22-2004, 12:45 AM
Well went out the other day and put a "few" rounds through the old WASR-10 Hicap. It did have a little trigger slap before and I grew used to it, but this last time BOY MY FINGER WENT NUMB! The only difference was that I was shooting some Barnual surplus while before I had shot exclusivley wolf ammo, could changing ammo have made it seem so much more worse?
Well as for the disconnector, I have decided to get a new one so that my shooting happiness will not be infringed the next time. The question(s):
-Can just get an extra surplus disconnector and throw that on? I know that the problem with it now is the way that the US part was made. Since I have replaced the furniture with US made furniture my legal parts count will not be off if I replace it with an orginal surplus part (The idea for getting a surplus part versus a new trigger group is $$$, as well as grinding is not really an option here....)
-If this will work, where can I find just a disconnector for the Romanian?
02-22-2004, 08:01 AM
IMHO you'd be better off just biting the bullet (no pun intended) and getting a new FCG like the Tapco G2 (*major* improvement in trigger pull). Installing a new disconnector is not guaranteed to eliminate trigger slap and you risk having bought the new disconnector for nothing. The only "budget" solution I can suggest is to try modifying your current disconnector. HTH...
02-23-2004, 12:38 PM
yup...lose the entire fire control group and get the redstararms or tapco or k-var unit.
my guess is that everything (springs/pins/parts) is loosening up and allowing the slap to get harder over time.
02-24-2004, 09:32 PM
Forget the replacements. Take your disconnector out and grind off the tail that sticks back toward the rear of the trigger. This part has no use, and is not on the original disconnector that was intended for this rifle. This will take care of the trigger slap with no new parts and no expense.
While you have the trigger out, take the hammer out also and polish the wings on it. Clean up the bottom of the trigger hook (sear) and make sure the corner, where it releases, has no burrs and is polished. Grip the pivot pins in an electric drill and polish them with 0000 steel wool. I even polish the inside of the hammer pivot. Then I use just a bit of wheelbearing grease to lubricate them when I assemble them. (Using diesel to clean, and motor oil to lubricate and protect, WB grease seems the proper thing for a heavy lubricant.)
If you do the trigger work like that you'll have a smooth, light pull and I don't think you'll have a trigger problem. Then if you do, you can spend money on it.
03-15-2004, 12:40 PM
I concur w/ Packrat.
Remember to lightly stone the sear/hammer engagment points. DON"T change any of the angles or remove to much material. Just enough to get rid of the burrs and ruffness. A shiny surface is you best friend. I even went as far to degrease and re-cold blue the surfaces before I out everything back together.
The grind job worked fine on my SAR's, save the money needed for a new FCG for some 30 rd'ers. :)
03-15-2004, 02:14 PM
Take your disconnector out and grind off the tail that sticks back toward the rear of the trigger.
I'd recommend working slow and frequently dipping the part you're grinding in water to keep it cool. If it turns blue while grinding, you've just potentially killed the temper in the part and ruined it. It's not difficult, just take your time.
03-16-2004, 07:52 PM
Try using those hard rubber (impregnated with something?) polishing attachments. They come in all shapes and make quick work of polishing up a FCG and no need to worry about changing any angles. Mine came in a Black and Decker polishing kit. I would guess Dremmel and clone maufacturers have something similar. Really easy. Haven't used my stone since.
03-16-2004, 09:21 PM
I'd use a cut-off wheel to remove it, but if you did use a grinder, you shouldn't get the part too hot. This is reasonably far from the working part of the disconnector, and the opposite side of a tube, but it might do some damage if you leaned hard enough on the part while you were grinding. I grew up with tempered parts and was always cautioned never to get a part hotter than you could stand to touch, but it never hurts to warn people.
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