View Full Version : Sear not releasing
02-21-2004, 03:12 PM
Yesterday the BBT came and dropped off a load of goodies. So this morning I installed a hammer, trigger, and sear into my Hungarian stamped receiver that I've had lying around for a few years.
Everything looks ok, as far as I can tell, but the sear does not release. If I push it back by hand it's fine, the trigger releases the hammer. I'm not sure why it's doing this. I looked at my MAK90, and as far as I can tell everything looks ok.
I'm using Tapco G2 parts if that makes a difference. I got the double hook by mistake, so I whacked off the extra hook with a dremmel and cleaned it up nicely with my belt sander.
I'd take a picture of it, but my camera is not working right now.
edited to add:
I also can't take it back apart now. The safety will not come off, it hits the trigger, I think for the same reason, that the trigger is not going far enough forward to let the safety past it. Not sure how I got it on there. Anyway, The safety is not coming off, and I can't get the shepards crook off either, which means no driving out the pin that hods the trigger.
You probably have to fit the safety to the trigger, you will have to grind off a little off the bottom of the safety until you have free movement. You can try to rotate the saftey backwards (lifting it over the selector stop and stock rivets) completely around to remove the safety. Any time you change a trigger you can run into this problem but at least its an easy fix. In the future if you have a double hook trigger in a single hook aplication, you can just put a clearance notch in the offending hook instead of cutting it off.
02-21-2004, 10:35 PM
You're probably getting interference with the part of the second hook you didn't cut off. I can't understand how you can force the hook forward with your hand and get it to release byt can't pull it with the trigger. Is it that much harder, that you don't have enough strength in your finger?
To add to bsn's comment, you could also cut a second slot on the other side of the trigger cut-out in the receiver so the trigger would fit properly.
02-22-2004, 10:19 AM
Sorry, if I pull the sear back more by hand (towards the buttstock), then I can pull the trigger and it will release the hammer. Otherwise the sear just holds the hammmer down and does not release it no matter how hard I pull the trigger.
Didin't think about lifting the safety over the stop, that sounds like a good idea.
I did not know you could just cut a clearance notch in the second hook. Anyone have pics?
You just need to remove enough off the bottom of the second hook so it doesn't hit the receiver, about 1/8".
02-23-2004, 02:16 PM
I got the safety off, Thanks!
But....can't seem to get the stupid shepards crook off. I'm this close to just cutting it off, but I don't have an extra one lying around so I'd rather not.
Any tips on getting it off?
02-23-2004, 07:07 PM
a small screwdriver and a pair of needle-nose pliers are all you need to remove the shepherd's crook retaining wire.
i agree with packrat. your right side hook (the one you truncated) may be hitting the receiver floor and it is preventing the trigger from properly roting thru its' full swing/travel).
remove and clearance your trigger.
also, check for binding in between the trigger/disconnector and the pivot pin.
after performing these checks, trial the group without the selectir lever installed. if all runs well, install the selector lever and inspect the fit of the bottom of the blocking pads with the disconnector and trigger.
properly fitted, there should only be about .003"-.005" clearance between the blocking bar pads and the trigger and disconnector.
02-24-2004, 07:47 PM
You can replace the shepherd's crook spring with "E" clips, one for each pin. Much easier to remove and replace.
The shepherd's hook is a kludge to replace the original retainer, which is the tail of the full-auto sear spring. So don't worry about it not being "original"--it wasn't anyway.
skuld, the part you're calling the "sear" is the disconnector. The sear is the part that releases the hammer for firing--the hook on the trigger. The AK doesn't have a separate sear. The problem is still the same--the trigger is not rotating far enough forward to allow the disconnector to free the hammer and allow it to move up and catch on the sear (trigger hook).
02-24-2004, 09:09 PM
I had to go visit Sledgehammer today to pick up some stuff, so I brought along my AK and he was able to get the crook off. About a minutes worth of filing was all that was needed to clean up the rounded corner on the hole in the receiver and to get a burr off the trigger. Now it works great.
Now I can't wait till the weekend so that I can go shoot it!
Thanks for all the help!
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